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Cruise control

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Subject: Adding Boxster Cruise Control w/E-gas CORRECTED 11/08/03

It is possible to add factory cruise control to a 2000 E-gas Boxster. It helps to have the factory wireing diagrams. The wiring is slightly different on a 2.7 and a 3.2 S. It's best done with the top partially open.

You will need the 3- or 4-stalk unit. ( P/N 996 613 219 10 EWC for the 4-stalk unit) and a 999 652 972 40 connector. You will also need some of the female pins for the ends of the wires since the connector doesn't come with them. You will need some for the Motronic connections too, so buy about 12 . (I don't have the P/N for the pins). This is a good time to install the OBC if you don't have it as the 4-stalk unit is cheaper than the 3-stalk.

Follow the directions for installing the OBC in regards to the

steering wheel/ airbag/ instrument cluster removal and stalk unit installation. (Use Google and search for D2 Performance) You will also have to remove the left kick panel. Pop off the fuse box cover. Remove the 4 phillips head screws and the panel will come off.

The cruise switch has a 4-unit connector:

#1 black goes to Motronic connector IV pin 27

#4 brown/yellow goes to Motronic connector IV pin 19 

#3 yellow goes to Motronic connector IV pin 25

#2 black goes to fuse B7

You will need to run 4 wires to the Motronic unit in the rear trunk (#1, #3, #4 from the cruise switch) and one from the instrument panel connector III pin 17 (black) "S". ( connector I pin 16 (blue) 2.7). to Motronic connector IV pin 18. Run a wire from #2 on the cruise control connector to the rear of the fuse panel at fuse B7. I used a modified quick disconnect at the back of the panel. The panel back can be

accessed by squeezing the clips and laying the panel flat.

You will need 4 wires about 12 feet long to run from the stalk unit to the Motronic unit located in the rear trunk on the left side. The motronic unit has five connectors.

# 1 has 9 pins

# 2 " 24 "

# 3 " 52 "

# 4 " 40 "

# 5 " 9 "

I taped the wires together to make it easier to fish them through the chassis.

Run them from the stalk unit down the left side harness along the fuse panel. Next remove the hood and trunk release mechanisms. There are 3 plastic plugs; pop them off. Use a 5mm hex wrench to loosen the bolts about 3-4 turns; do not remove them. The unit will snap up and out of the way. Don't remove the cables. There will be enough room to run the wires next to the existing ones.

Also remove the rear side panel just behind the door. One phillips screw at the bottom hidden in the carpet and one hex head bolt (8mm wrench) at the top near the roof hinge, loosen do not remove. 

Remove the trunk liner to access the motronic unit. The fasteners snap out. Run the wires up along the existing ones. I found it impossible to run them through the wire chase above the rear fenders, so I ran them under the black foam panel in the top well and through an opening into the rear trunk. Don't block the hole in the foam -- this is a water drain.

Install the connector pins on the ends ofthe wires and insert them in the proper holes in the connectors on the stalk and the 40-pin unit on the Motronic unit. Replace the instrument cluster, fuse panel, kick panel, rear side panel, trunk liners, etc.

Visit your dealer to have the cruise control activated. Cost me one hour labor.


I can send the following photos if anyone wants them.

Fig1: Rear wiring harness closeup - dark rubber foam.

Run wires under rubber foam at top.

Fig2: Wiring harness - left rear trunk. Motronic unit is just to the right.

Fig3: Connectors with instrument cluster removed.

Fig4: Wiring harness at fuse box.

Fig5: Wiring harness on left rear quarter panel.


Edited by Ed B
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That is great Ed. You are the first I know of who has done this. Hope you do not mind if I put up the 5 pictures mentioned in your instructions.

I like the idea of doing the trip computer and cruise control retrofit at the same time. Have the dealer turn on the trip computer and cruise control with the PST2, and then install the 4 stalk steering column switch assembly and wire up everything.

I will have to look at the 2001-2003 Boxster wiring diagrams to see what changes there are due to the new style instrument cluster. Also, I do not see why this cannot be done on a 996 other than their DME is behind the rear seats. Great 'hack.' Jeff






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The parts would be about $170, and I suppose some dealers would charge for turning on the cruise control. Keep in mind the wiring changed to the instrument cluster in 2001 and there might be other wiring changes as well if you are going to have someone do this.

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  • 4 months later...

Hello Everyone,

I am a Boxster newbie. Just bought a 1997 Boxster Tip. It doesn't come with the cruise control function, which I miss dearly as my old Mazda has it.

Can this be retro fitted to a 1997 Boxster 2.5L Tip? If not, can an aftermarket kit be fitted whilst using the factory stalk?

Help please. Much appreciated.

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I reviewed the wireing diagram for the '97 Tip and it appears it would be possible to add factory cruise. You need to determine if the control unit for cruise control is already on your car. It's located "above footwell outlet nozzle" near the steering column. If it's there you will have to determine how much of the wireing is there. The '97 is quite a bit different from the '00 and later models. You will need the wireing diagram.

The PET shows the control unit, (in the steering section), and the P/N varies with the year. It does not show the option code, M454, so I'm assuming it's installed on all cars.

Good luck.

Ed :thumbup:

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Ed B: I am in Australia, so perhaps don't have this feature.

Tool Pants: No, I don't have this on my car. Hmm... seems like I can only go with the aftermarket option.

Does anyone know if I can hook up a 3rd party cruise control to a Porsche cruise control stalk? I am thinking about doing the OBC at the same time, might as well get the cruise done too with the 4 stalk unit.

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  • 1 month later...

Nice write-up Ed_B!

Your wrote:

"This is a good time to install the OBC if you don't have it as the 4-stalk unit is cheaper than the 3-stalk."

Do you mean it's possible to run OBC and cruise from one 4-way stalk?Doesn't OBC+cruise require two stalks?

Do you know whether the cruise control can be activated before the hardware is mounted? I.e. can I have my dealer activate the cruise now (they have my car today!) and mount the hardware later?



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OBC and cruise control requires a steering column switch assembly with the 2 additional stalks, like in the picture.

The assembly that has just the additional stalk for cruise control cost more than the assembly with all 4 stalks - for some strange reason.

I do not see why the cruise control could not be turned on before the retrofit. We have the OBC turned on before we do the retrofit.


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Thanks for the clarification. I'd lovet to go-ahead with the installation but sadly I received news from Porsche yesterday that my car has been badly repaired after an accident and it isn't possible to perform wheel-alignment! But that is OT to this thread...

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  • 5 months later...

I have just completed an OBC and Cruise retrofit to a UK spec 2002 Boxster S (pre facelift). Much of this was possible due to EdBs great work as you will see. Apologies for UK shop names, currency and measurements but this is a direct copy from my post on Boxa.net.

Parts List


996.613.219.10 4 Stalk Steering Wheel Assembly (£80 delivered Porsch-Apart)

999.652.972.40 Cruise Control Connector (£0.29)

999.650.513.40 OBC Connector (£2.86)

999.652.901.22 Pin Connector (9 for Cruise) (£0.27)

Unknown Fuse holder connector for 1.00mm2 cable


000 979 009 Wires for OBC Connection (5 Reqd) (£0.99)


1 off 6mm Eyelet Crimp Connector.

1 off 25mm rubber grommet.

PVC coated copper wire (0.5mm2-0.63mm2 conductor area). 4 off 5m runs (Blue, Yellow, Brown, Black) and 1 off 2m (Black) required for Cruise. If you buy another 9 pin connectors and an extra 5 off 0.5 m of wire you can make your own wire runs for the OBC and do away with the VW set. (I used the standard 16/0.2 Equipment Wire from Maplin (£1.10 for 10m) and ran the loom inside the sheathing from standard networking cable. Even with the long wire run the voltage drop is acceptable). Porsche seem to use standard vehicle (9/0.3) cable that you can get from motor accessory shops (not Halfords).

I shamelessly used, and totally relied upon, EdB’s Cruise control hack from the RennTech Forum, the Porsche Cars of America OBC hack and various snippets and advice from Boxa.net. I found the pictures from D2 Performance on the Whiteson site particularly useful for fitting the stalk assembly although I had to make allowances for my car being a 2002 Boxster S.

I will comment no further on the OBC hack or fitting of the new Stalk Assembly as they are well covered already. Just remember that on a 2002 car without factory OBC you will get full functionality but on the old type of display, i.e. you will not get the dot matrix display as in the Owners Handbook. Just in case you attempt his in isolation you will need to open both rear and front luggage compartments, open the driver’s door, partially open the hood and then disconnect the battery (having left the ignition on for the sake of your ears!)

All wires in the Cruise Harness, with the exception of the Fuse Box, need to be terminated with the Porsche crimp connectors above. You will need a decent crimping tool for these little devils. Work from front to back of the car, leaving the connectors at the rear of the car until you have the rest of the loom in place (you can’t stretch wire!)

The Cruise Connector from the 4 Stalk Assembly exits to the left of the steering column. One of the wires (Black/Pin no 2) needs to run across to the right and into the back of the fuse box. I found a cable run, just to the right of the steering column and below the instrument cluster, that exits onto the main wiring harness under the dashboard and against the right side of the car above the fuse box. To get access behind the trim to the right of the drivers footwell, pull off the Fuse Box cover and undo the 4 philips head screws. Pull the panel forward at the bottom (lift or remove the floor mat) and it will come away. You have now uncovered the main loom running down to the Fuse Box. The Black lead (Pin No2) from the Cruise connector needs to join the Black wire running to Fuse B7. This is the brake circuit and provides the brake cut off signal to the cruise control logic. At this point you can either splice into the brake wire (easy but less elegant and I was concerned about causing voltage drops in the brake light circuit) or spend ages removing the Fuse Holder Crimp connector from the back of the fuse box and replacing it with another, this time with both cruise and brake wires crimped in. To achieve the latter, spring the front of the fuse box off the bulkhead by lifting the catches that sit behind the, now empty, screw holes. The Fuse Box drops forward so that you can remove the entire second row of fuses by lifting the plastic sprig clips at each end. A white retaining rod runs down inside this fuse matrix and is withdrawn by simply pushing on the narrower end. Remove fuse B7 and use 2 small screwdrivers to release the spring retaining clip from the front of the matrix to release the spade type fuse connector. Cut off and replace with the new connector, crimping in both original brake and new cruise wire. This is undoubtedly the hardest part of the whole job and I must admit that I have simply soldered the new wire to the existing fuse connector until I can get the correct part from Porsche.

The remaining cruise wiring harness is made up of 3 wires from the Cruise Connector and 1 wire from the back of the instrument panel (Cruise Indicator). It is strongly recommended to use different colours for all of these wires, as they need to run to the back of the car. The wire to the back of the instrument panel connects into the left hand or White main instrument connector. It needs to slide into pin 17 for the Boxster S. See EdB’s instruction for the Boxster pin assignment.

I ran my harness down the right hand side of the car, although, the left side would follow the Porsche convention and be easier if you were running the rear speakers at the same time. It really is personal preference.

I ran the harness alongside the single black wire (actually all the same bundle) until reaching the bottom of the driver’s door pillar. I removed the trim running along the sill by using a 5mm hex spanner inserted into the 2 small, blanked off, holes on the inboard side of the trim. Loosen these bolts 2-3 turns and then firmly lift up the trim panel. I had to move the driver’s seat forward and then back to get the spanner into the holes. I ran the cable through the void on the inside of the sill trim, using cable ties to stop rattles.

At the rear of the sill I removed the carpeted panel running up to the rollover bar. This was done by undoing the small Philips had screw concealed in the carpet about 4 inches from the floor, and then loosening the small 8mm nut at the top of the panel just behind the rollover bar. By lifting and twisting the bottom towards the driver’s seat, the panel can be removed from the car. The wiring harness was passed up through the plastic sill trim (don’t use the hole for locating the carpeted panel that you have just removed) and around behind the seat belt inertia reel.

For the next phase you will need to lift the rear of the hood to provide access to the deck above the engine bay. As part of the preparations for this job you need to have operated the hood mechanism until the tonnaeu cover reaches the highest point. From outside of the car locate the small plastic gutter at the rear of the fabric top and slide it downwards and out of the retaining clips. Next slide your hand under each side of the hood just below and behind the rollover bars to locate the ball connectors on each end of the hood tensioning wire. Simply pop these off the ball joints. The rear of the hood can now be lifted to reveal the top deck.

At this point you also need to remove the lining from inside the rear luggage compartment. The simplest way to do this is to remove the bottom first and then the back as they interlock. You can remove only the back but this requires some confidence. To remove the bottom carpet remove the boot catch cover by undoing the 2 philips head screws. Next pop out the 2 press connectors to each side and finally unscrew the connectors above each of the light clusters. To the right of the boot opening you will find 2 plastic slotted connectors, these must be turned a quarter turn to release them. The bottom carpet can now be removed. The back panel is held in place along the top edge by 3 push fit connectors. Simply pull the bottom of the panel forwards, disconnect the lamp and remove the carpet from the car.

I had taped a large cable tie to the cruise harness and managed to feed this from inside of the car, along just inboard of the rollover bar and out under the lining of the hood stowage. I ran the wires under the soundproofing on the deck and out to a hole at the rear right hand corner of the deck. This hole ran straight into the top right hand corner of the boot. I used a standard 25mm (20mm hole) rubber grommet to prevent chaffing on the wires. At this point you can run the wires directly to the Cartronic Engine Management Unit, or up and over through the hoop frame to join the remainder of the cars wiring. I did the latter which in retrospect serves little purpose.

Once you have worked out exactly how long a harness you need, crimp the remaining 4 connectors to the wires.

The new harness has to be added to the second connector down from the top of the Cartronic Unit. Once you have removed the connector you will see it is numbered 4 on the mounting plate for the unit. To get access to this 40pin connector you will have to remove the gold coloured anti-tamper shield. This is bolted in place using security nuts, however, they were easily removed using strong pliers. Remove the top connector that gives access to the one that you want. At the bottom of the plug are 2 small plastic spring clips, which release the connector blocks (2x20 pins).

Pin No 1 from the Cruise plug (Blue) goes to Pin No 27 on the Cartronic Unit.

Pin No 3 from the Cruise plug (Yellow) goes to Pin No 25 on the Cartronic Unit.

Pin No 4 from the Cruise plug (Brown) goes to Pin No 19 on the Cartronic Unit.

Pin No 17 from the Instrument Panel goes to Pin No 18 on the Cartronic Unit.

Now all you have to do is put everything back together!

The system will not work until the car’s computer is updated from a PST2. It cost me 30 mins labour to get his done for both OBC and Cruise. Be aware that 1 OPC refused to activate the cruise for me on safety grounds after talking to Porsche GB. They had previously told me that they would be happy to do the work (I did check before I started!).

I have some pictures for those who may want them but don't want to clutter the site unnecessarily.

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  • 5 months later...

I brought home my first Porsche, first Boxster last Thursday. It's a 2001 Boxster with Tip trans and Cruz Control. I was so excited about the car that while showing my wife how the steering wheel adjustment works I by mistake grabbed the Cruz Control stalk and snapped it right off.

Man I couldn't believe it I hope like HELL that's the last stupid thing I do in this car?????? well 401.00 later to fix it. The Dealer (Momentum Porsche) in Houston was pretty cool, it only took them 4hrs to return my car to me. I guess I should feel lucly.


P.S. I can't keep myself out of the car/do I sound like a newbie? :drive:

Edited by MLegere
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  • 8 months later...


QUOTE(Ed B @ Nov 5 2003, 10:23 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

...Visit your dealer to have the cruise control activated. Cost me one hour labor.

I'm gonna do the hack pretty soon. Only thing is when I visited the OPC today and told them I'll be coming for them to activate the cruise control, they looked at me with absolutely blank faces. Both the mechanic and the service advisor.

Does anyone how this is done from the PST2?

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I'm gonna do the hack pretty soon. Only thing is when I visited the OPC today and told them I'll be coming for them to activate the cruise control, they looked at me with absolutely blank faces. Both the mechanic and the service advisor.

Does anyone how this is done from the PST2?

Got to Boxster -> DME -> Coding -> change cruise setting and press F8 to code it.

post-2-1133833601_thumb.jpg post-2-1133833609_thumb.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

On '03 cars the cruise control stalk connects directly to the instrument cluster and not to the DME and it looks a much simpler job. There is a coding option in the cluster for enabling cruise, and there is also an option in the DME to enable, although I don't know if both would need to be activated. I don't know anyone who has done it on an '03 but on paper it looks like a piece of cake (famous last words!)

Just a point of interest - Ed B's instructions above also apply for 996's fitted with DME7.2.

Edited by Richard Hamilton
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  • 1 month later...

I've been trying to find the 03 wiring diagrams so I can see how that wires into the IP, but haven't had any luck. The new Bentley doesn't include 03 diagrams. I'm also wondering if the cruise cutout interlocks on the brake and clutch pedals will function without any further modification. Any thoughts?? Thanks.


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Thanks to Ed B, Navman and Loren's instructions, I finally got the cruise control hooked up and programmed by a local Porsche specialist through the PST2 :) Tested working on the road on my way back.

However.... I'm not getting the "Cruise" indicator on my instrument panel. I followed the instructions to connect the white instrument connector pin 17 to the Motronic connector 4 pin 18. The only discrepancy is the color of my white instrument connector pin 17 is not black as indicated by Ed B. But I figured as long as the pin number's correct, that's what matters most.... apparently not! :(

Anyone got any clue to this?

Mine's a year 2000 Boxster S.

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I think you used the wrong connector if I read your message correctly and you used the white connector. Pin 17 in the white connector is used for a tiptronic transmission, if you have a tip. If you do not have a tip then there is no wire. Pin 17 in the white connector has nothing to do with cruise control.

For a 2000 3.2 it is pin 17 in the black connector.

For a 2000 2.7 it is pin 16 in the blue connector.

It makes sense to me that there is a difference between a 3.2/2.7 since the green cruise control indicator light is not in the same location in the 3.2 versus 2.7 clusters.

But I was a history major and they did not teach us how to read a wiring diagram....

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