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Check to see that the front cargo lid is flush with the bumper. If it is not then the lid and/or bumper cover will need to be adjusted so that the lid does not catch air at speed.

Hello, I just purchased a 2001 boxster and while I love the car at 60 mph and up there is a very loud whistle coming from towards the front of the car. Does anyone know what could be the cause and what I can do to fix it? Thank you so much!

Try 8764

Radio# CDR-220 Model# 4462 Serial # X5016279 Thank You

Sorry for bring up and old thread, though have an issue with finding the heater change valve vacuum diagram. The picture shown is perfect though i need to find the diagram that comes after the valve (23 on diagram). The hose is missing and heater valve was zip tied open. Attempting to fix it properly. Thanks in advance.

Check for rodent damage and that all pins in plugs and connectors are clean and undamaged.

Here's a "hack" that might put off a cleaning job. I have a 996 C4 6sp. I was having the same symptoms as others -- rough idling, unresponsive throttle, etc. I'm a mild driver normally. The car has 64,000 on the clock. I took it out, and engaged full throttle acceleration in a gear that didn't redline too fast. Get into gear, throttle to the floor, hold for 5-10 seconds, then release. Repeat 3-4 times. Idling, acceleration, throttle response all back to normal. Good luck.

So in this case I plug and un plug check for loose wires ?

PSM module is left side of engine compartment.

Hi Loren! It was such a pleasure meeting you, and thank you for getting back to me. I wanted to ask where I might find those modules, and if you happen to have any diagrams available, that would be fantastic! I'm fairly new to using Cayenne at the moment everything on my cluster is fine I don’t have any fault messages or codes showing up, which is great! However, I’m having a little trouble with the lever for changing gears when its on manual it just wont work it doesn’t seem to work when I push it up or down. The tiptronic switch on the steering wheel works perfectly, though! I tested the solenoid actuator, and it’s functioning well, but I’m planning to swap it out with the new one I just purchased. I truly appreciate your help with this! Thanks so much!!

According to the Porsche Cayenne Service manual... Note all symptoms then choose: P1316 PSM control module * No self-learning check 'Adaptation' of Tiptronic control module * The last speed signal received via the CAN drive remains stored and is used for calculations Possible cause of fault * To localise the fault, read out the fault memory for the 'PSM control module' (Please read out fault memory) * No message from PSM control module on CAN drive (no signal/communication P1316 PSM control module * Yellow warning in instrument cluster: 'Air spring faulty, workshop' * Lowering to lowest level Possible cause of fault * Level control module could not establish a connection with the PSM control module (no signal/communication) * Read out PSM control module fault memory * Inclination control not possible (PASM) P1316 PSM control module * Limited functionality or no function Possible causes of fault * No signal/communication (no signal from PSM control module on CAN drive) * Faulty (fault value for wheel speed or distance pulses)

Hello everyone, pleasure to meet you all. I’m experiencing a similar issue that started with my battery running low, which then triggered the 4x4 warning message on the screen. I replaced the battery, but I have not yet replaced the transfer case solenoid actuator (part number PAB341601KT1). I also noticed that on my cluster display, the gear indicator (D1, D2, D3, etc.) no longer shows correctly. The SUV runs fine overall, and I haven’t experienced problems with the gear lever getting stuck, the key being affected (locked)or going in to limp mode, However, the display is inaccurate — for example, when I shift into Reverse, it still shows “D” instead of “R.” When I shift into **Park, it continues to display “D” until I turn off the SUV, at which point it resets to “P.” I scanned the vehicle and retrieved code 1316 – Tiptronic Switch using my X-Tool scanner. I can clear the code, but it returns again after driving. so you only see the D on the display. From my side, I plan to replace the transfer case solenoid actuator soon. In the meantime, I’d like to ask: What solutions have you found for this issue on your end? please keep me posted

you can remove the one that holds the ground wire on the valve cover and then match at Home Depot.

An acquaintance want to sell his 5 month old whites/red GTS cabriolet PDK (kid coming). He paid $189k for it . 2k miles on it. What is a fair price for it?

Hello, I have a 1997 986 Boxster. Unfortunately water got into the immobiliser box under the passenger seat. I then went down the route of buying a new replacement set from a breaker car including ecu immobiliser and transponder pill. The new set works perfectly fine eg the car starts, electronics, and roof works fine, However with the new immobiliser set the passenger door lock refuses to open when I use the key in the drivers door barrel. I have tried putting the key in the ingition then pressing the red central locking button on the dashboard but this still does not open the door. The door doesn't open with the outside handle or the inside handle. To rule out the new immobiliser being faulty i bought another set from ebay however the 2nd new set also has exactly the same problem. The only solution to get the passenger door open is to put my original immobiliser in which allows the door to be unlocked when i use my key in the drivers door barrel, However this immobiliser does not start the car. Hopefully you can see the issue, with my new immoboliser set I cant lock the car otherwise i wont be able to open the passenger door unless i put the original Immobiliser back in. Massive pain so far now i have unplugged the door lock so the passenger door wont lock by accident however this stops the microswitches in the handles working so the window no longer drops when opening the door. So hoping to find a long term fix. Anyone who has changed their immobiliser ecu and transponder key had a similar issue? Hopefully im just missing something. As far as i know the doors arent coded? Thank you in advance.

I'm at my wit's end troubleshooting my 2001 996TT. The car has been a long time project; 4 years on the jack stands. I have modified it quite a bit. Most recently I ran into issues loading a new tune onto the car (Cobb Accessport) which I think may have started all of my issues but I cannot pinpoint that as the root cause. At some point during the flash, the Accessport displayed a "Cannot communicate with ECU" error. The file loads properly on the Accessport, and I can install/uninstall the Accessport to the car, but in either state (installed/uninstalled) the car will crank but not run. Electrical Modifications of Interest: - OEM fuel pump relay output is now a signal wire for a dedicated relay off the battery to feed the Walbro 525lph pump - Injector Dynamics 1300cc injectors Symptoms: - Car cranks, but does not run - No CEL or codes on the DME - I have a passive fault at the instrument cluster for DME signal - No fuel pump prime when ignition turned to On position What I have Tried: - I cannot start the car with the Cobb Accessport installed/uninstalled. It is currently uninstalled while I diagnose - I can fire the fuel pump from Durametric/PIWIS - I can communicate with all modules on the car in PIWIS - I have all IPAS codes so I programmed the DME; still same result - Bench tested fuel pump relay, DME relay, and MFI relay; all tested good I have 2X VALs available but they are 7MB each so I cannot attach; one from before the DME reprogramming and one from after. Hoping someone can help point me in the right direction on what to look at next, because I'm almost ready to throw a standalone on the car (emissions exempt in 2026).

Here are the close ups of the plugs

Hi guys, Have a 2000 Carrera Cabrio. When I got the car, it came with an aftermarket Alpine that didn't really work well, so never used it much, so not sure if this is an older issue or a new one. Replaced it last weekend with a Blaupunkt Liverpool series head unit - which is a budget unit I have to admit. It uses the stock M490 amplifier to power the speakers. The sound quality coming out of the speakers is pretty good, but there's definitely some noise (crackling / hum) from the amplifier when the unit powers on and whining sound as engine revs pick up, which is a grounding issue somewhere in the system as it's picking up the alternator. From my research, it seems like in a stock setup, the grounding for the original CD220 head unit and the amp are linked together - so the harness/CD220 has a grounding connection, not sure where. After all this splicing, etc, I'm not sure if that's been lost somehow. In my testing, even with volume set at zero, there is the noise and whine, making me assume it's the amp that needs grounding. Firstly, is this the correct assumption? The noise stays the same volume as far as I can tell when I crank up the volume on the head unit. If I do need to ground the amp and looking at the wiring diagram, I really can't figure out which wire from the blue plug (cause I have a cabrio) that goes into the amp that I should use to create a new grounding connection closer to the amp (I saw a grounding screw just behind the amp).

I've been trying to get the key FOB to lock/unlock the '98 Boxter I bought in June 2025. Even though the red LED illuminates when I depress either of the 2 buttons (doors & front trunk), I replaced the battery anyway, along with a new top cover for the FOB. Neither function works as intended, but I noticed the red LED on the dash does illuminate in a flashing manner. However, I have to unlock the door manually with the key for the dash LED to extinguish. I've read a lot of threads on several different forums amd watch some youtube videos, but none of the recommendations suggested have proven successful. I have been locking and unlocking the car with the key in the door lock and I'm OK with that, but it would be nice if I could get the FOB to work.

Hey guys so I posted a post last week regarding some concerning sounds that my Porsche 986 from 1996 has and I was looking for a bit of advice. It’s had a lot of work done to it but ultimately isn’t a daily drive so has been sat around for weeks at a time in a Locked garage undercover It’s had new suspension, new cam belt, new break pipes, new starter motor and a new battery but this noise is worrying me I’ve been putting some fuel cleaner in her and running her quite a bit as a daily runner to try and help but I’d just like some advice before I take her in On a cold start this is the sound it makes and when I rev the engine at a low gear or a neutral it seems to make this kind of gargling sound. I was looking for some advice before I take her to the garage so I can know what to expect any answers that would be greatly appreciated. Ive linked to my Facebook post so see if anybody attached are 2 video of the cold start and some revs to show the sounds and issues any help would be greatly appreciated guys as I’m getting no help on other forums video one : video two:

Hi all, I dropped the bolt that goes in the valve cover and holds part of the wiring harness while taking it off and lost it to the abyss unfortunately. Does anyone happen to know the part number or thread size for this bolt? This is for a 2007 957 4.8L V8 Cayenne S. I have looked all over but cannot for the life of me find it. Much appreciated!

It worked! Thank you very much!

Try 5820

Welcome to RennTech The factory radio had a ground wire that had to be attached to the car's chassis under the dash as a simple anti theft device. If that ground is not there, the immobilizer will prevent the car from starting.