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drpaulmarsh

RoW M030 Sport Suspension Install

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RoW M030 Sport Suspension Install


by drpaulmarsh, Ryan Hanson & Hans Wiederrich   Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Front Strut Removal and Installation: 1. Loosen lug nuts slightly and block rear wheels. 2. Remove the shroud on the trunk with a torx screwdriver. 3. Mark the location of the three (3) 13 mm bolts on the top of the trunk that holds the strut to the body with a ink pen. 4. Jack up the car and remove the wheels. 5. Loosen the 18 mm sway bar bolt that is on the bottom of the strut (counter with open-end wrench). 6. Take off the caliper from the hub. Don’t let it fall as it may stretch and break the brake line. (*Porsche recommends replacing the two caliper bolts and not re-using them) 7. Remove the nut on the strut spindle assembly, the abs wires and brake lines. 8. Remove the three (3) 13 mm bolts from the top of the trunk that holds the strut to the body. Peek down in and note the installed position of the spring strut mount. The arrow markings must point to the outer side of the vehicle (A). The shock absorber piston rod is thereby shifted outwards. 9. Now with a friend, push down the arm and gently pull towards you. The strut will be in the wheel well now. 10. This is the tricky part; my friend and I covered the strut top w/ a shop towel and carefully pushed down the strut and pulled it towards me to pull it out of the wheel well. Be careful not to hit/scratch the lip of your fender. (If it doesn’t go easily, you may want to try using a spring compressor to shorten it a ½ and inch or so.) 11. Once cleared you can wiggle or slide out the strut from the spindle assembly. Front strut disassembly and assembly: 1. Apply spring compressors to both sides and compress the spring a ½ inch or so. This may be difficult to do as the front springs are conical shaped, but will ensure that the nut on top is easily removed. 2. Remove the 21 mm nut on top of the strut. (item 1 in picture below) Counter the piston rod when loosening the nut. 3. Pay attention to how it comes apart. 4. Put all the necessary parts on the new strut (You will be re-using the old rubber bump stop so don’t throw them out) and assemble back wards. 5. The new springs are shorter so the assembly will not have as much tension. 6. Tighten the fastening nut to 59 ftlb. 7. Install the new strut in the reverse as described above and use the sheet below for torque values: Cross member/side member (one component) Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Cross member/side member to body M14 x 1.5 160 (118) (Front and rear) Corner plate to side member M10 x 1.5 65 (48) Corner plate to body M12 x 1.5 100 (74) Corner plate to body M14 x 1.5 160 (118) (With diagonal arm and side member) Diagonal brace Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Cross member/side member to body M14 x 1.5 160 (118) Diagonal brace to body and side member M12 x 1.5 100 (74) Axle strut (control arm) Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Axle strut to side member M12 x 1.5 120 (89) Axle strut to diagonal arm M14 x 1.5 160 (118) Axle strut (ball joint) to wheel carrier M12x1.5 75 (56) (also applies to GT3 RS) Camber basic setting to two-part axle strut M8 27 (20) - 911 GT3 /911 GT3 RS Spring strut/wheel carrier Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Spring strut to wheel carrier (stabiliser mount) - 911 Carrera 2 M12 x 1.5 85 (63) (shock-absorber tube clamp) - 911 Carrera 4/ M12 x 1.5 85 (63) 911 GT3 / 911 GT3 RS Spring seat clamp - 911 Carrera 4 M6 10 (7.5) Spring strut mount to body M8 33 (24) - 911 GT3 / 911 GT3 RS M8 35 (26) Spring strut mount to piston rod M14 x 1.5 80 (59) - 911 GT3 / 911 GT3 RS M14 x 1.5 80 (59) Stabiliser mating bearing to spring strut (lock nut) - 911 GT3M52 x 1.5 50 (37) Height adjustment to spring strut (lock nut) - 911 GT3/911 GT3 RS M52 x 1.5 50 (37) Brake cover plate to wheel carrier M6 10 (7.5) Brake disc to wheel hub M6 10 (7.5) Brake caliper to wheel carrier M12 x 1.5 85 (63)* Speed sensor to wheel carrier M6 10 (7.5) Combination coupling to wheel carrier M6 10 (7.5) Retainer plate for wheel bearing to wheel carrier M8 37 (27) Wheel hub to wheel carrier M22 x 1.5 460 (340.4) * Replace screws at front and rear axle whenever they have been removed Front-axle final drive/drive shaft (911 Carrera 4) Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Front-axle drive shaft to transmission M8 39 (29) Front-axle drive shaft to wheel hub M22 x 1.5 460 (340.4) Rear front-axle transmission support to transmission bearing MlO 65 (48) Rear front-axle transmission support to body MI0 65 (48) Front front-axle transmission support to front-axle cross member MI0 65 (48) Stud to front-axle cross member M8 20 (15) Front-axle transmission support at front to trans mission MI0 65 (48) Tank strap to body M8 23 (17) Stabiliser Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Stabilizer to side member MI0 x 1.5 65 (48) Stabilizer mount to stabiliser MI0 46 (34) Stabiliser mount to shock absorber pipe and wheel carrier - 911 Carrera 2M12 x 1.5 85 (63) Stabiliser mount to spring strut MI0 46 (34) Rear Strut removal: 1. Climb in the back seat of the car remove the panel behind the rear seat. It has no clips. 2. Mark the location of the three (3) 15mm bolts on the top of the trunk that holds the strut to the body with a ink pen. 3. Loosen lug nuts slightly and block front wheels. 4. Lift rear of car from cross member bar under motor and put jack stands in rear jack points. (***Make sure you have a low profile jack so that after you install the struts and you go to let it down it will fit under the engine. To help with this I approached the cross member bar from a 45 degree angle near the rear portion of the wheel well.) 5. Use spring compressor to compress the strut and give you some wiggle room to move it up and down later. 6. Disconnect both sides of the sway bar - 17 mm open end and 15 mm nut the bar should swing easy on the mounts. 7. Climb back inside the car and remove the three (3) 15 mm nuts in the car to drop the strut. 8. Remove the long 18 mm bolt connecting the strut to the arm. (You may have to push up and down on the hub, while you turn the screw left to get it out…) 9. Use two people a pry bar, screwdriver, and/or rubber hammer to force the shock off its mount. (You may have to push up and down on the hub again here too.) 10. Once the strut is dropped you can remove it easily it to prepare the new one. Rear strut disassembly and assembly: 1. Apply spring compressors to both sides and compress the spring a ½ inch or so. 2. Remove the nut on top of the strut M12 x 1.5 (item 1 in picture below). Support the piston rod from turning when loosening the nut with a 7 mm open wrench. 3. The rest is similar to preparing the front, but this time you will use the new yellow bump stops. Rear Strut Install: 1. Install the strut back in the housing and don't tighten up everything up top just yet. 2. Place a jack under the shock to compress it so you can put it on the arm. Its kind of hard. 3. You need to be a little strong. Once on the arm the bolt wont align properly. 4. Use a screwdriver or hex tool with the rounded end to lift up the shock just a little on the arm so you and your friend can push the bolt through. 5. Try turning the bolt as you feed it through so that the threads don’t catch. This was by far the hardest part of the entire install and took 3 guys to line it up and push it through. 6. Once through, install the new strut in the reverse as described above and use the sheet below for torque values: Carrier side section/cross member Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Carrier side section to body M12 x 1.5 110 (81.5) Studs for carrier side section to body (screw-in M12 x 1.5 46 (34) torque only) Cross member at rear to carrier side section M12 x 1.5 110 (81.5) Cross member at front to carrier side section MIa x 1.5 65 (48) Brake hose holder to carrier side section M6 10 (7.5) Diagonal brace to body MIa x 1.5 65 (48) Diagonal brace to cross member M12 x 1.5 110 (81.5) Diagonal brace to carrier side section (collar nut) M10x1.5 23 (17) Axle strut Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Control arm 2 (toe control arm) to wheel carrier M12 x 1.5 75 (56) To cross member (toe eccentric) M12 x 1.5 100 (74) Lower axle strut to carrier side section (camber eccentric) M12 x 1.5 100 (74) To wheel carrier M12 x 1.5 75 (56) Camber basic setting on two-part lower axle strut M8 27 (20) - 911 GT3 RS Diagonal arm to cross arm M14 x 1.5 160 (118) To carrier side section M14 x 1.5 180 (133) Control arm 3 and control arm 4 (upper control arms) M12 x 1.5 110 (81.5) To carrier side section M12 x 1.5 110 (81.5) To wheel carrier Wheel carrier Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Wheel bearing to wheel carrier (lid) M8 37 (27) Speed sensor to wheel carrier M6 10 (7.5) Tightening torques for rear axle Rear wheel suspension, drive shafts 911 Carrera (996) Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Brake cover plate to wheel carrier M6 10 (7.5) Brake disc to wheel hub M6 10 (7.5) Brake caliper to wheel carrier M12 x 1.5 85 (63)* Holder for combination wire to wheel carrier M6 10 (7.5) *Replace screws at front and rear axle whenever they have been removed. Spring strut Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Spring strut to body - 911 Carrera M10 46 (34) - 911 G13 / 911 G13 RS M10/10. 46 (34)* Spring strut to wheel carrier M12 x 1.5 100 (74) Shock absorber to mount (piston rod) - 911 Carrera M12 x 1.5 58 (43) - 911 G13 / 911 G13 RS M12 x 1.5 60 (44) Stabiliser mating bearing to spring strut (lock nut) - 911 G13 / 911 G13 RS M52 x 1.5 50 (37) Height adjustment to spring strut (lock nut) - 911 G13 / 911 G13 RS M52 x 1.5 50 (37) * 911 GT3 with roll-over bar: Carry out a test drive after performing assembly work on the roll-over bar/spring strut support bolts on the body and then retighten the M10 fastening nuts (three per side) to the same torque. Drive shaft Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Drive shaft to transmission M10 81 (60) Drive shaft to wheel hub M22 x 1.5 460 (340) Stabiliser Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Stabiliser to carrier side section M8 23 (17) Stabiliser mount to stabiliser and spring strut - 911 Carrera M10 46 (34) - 911 G13 / 911 G13 RS M10/10. 65 (48) Stabiliser mating bearing to spring strut (lock nut) - 911 G13 / 911 G13 RS M52 x 1.5 50 (37) Ancillary equipment mounts Rear wheel suspension, drive shafts Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Engine mount to body M8 23 (17) Engine carrier to engine - 911 Carrera MIO 46 (34) - 911 GB MIO 65 (48) Engine mount to engine carrier MI2 x 1.5 85 (63) Transmission support to body MIO x 1.5 65 (48) Stud for transmission support to body MIO 20 (15) Longitudinal support to body MIO 65 (48) Mount to longitudinal support MIO 65 (48) Plug-in couplings for clutch and steering hydraulics location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Steering pressure line Wrench size 15 mm 30 (22) Steering return line Wrench size 19 mm 40 (30) Clutch line Wrench size 15 mm 30 (22) Wheel fastening location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Wheel to wheel hub MI4 x 1.5 130 (96)* * Thinly grease thread, shank and under head (between screw head bearing surface and spherical cap ring) of the wheel bolts with Optimoly TA (aluminium paste). Do not grease bearing surface ofthe spherical cap facing the wheel. If heavily contaminated, clean bolts first with a lint-free cloth.

 

Edited by drpaulmarsh

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Very nice and detailed description that compeled me to try it on my '03 C2 Targa.

Before starting I need a bit of help clarifying a few things:

- Where and what kind thread locker or anti-seize is needed if any (I got the optimoly TA for the wheel bolts)?

- Porsche asks for the caliper bolts to be replaced. Do you find that necessary even for a 5k mile car?

- Could you identify the parts that you name in the torque lists in a diagram or picture?

- Anything special about the mounting of the stabilizer bars?

- On marking with ink the location of the top strut bolts, you mean put a circle around them to get the positioning identical?

- Is there a new alignment required once it's all done?

- How long does it take for the whole install and are there any special tools other than the spring compression tools?

Thanks a lot

Yannis

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Very nice and detailed description that compeled me to try it on my '03 C2 Targa.

Before starting I need a bit of help clarifying a few things:

- Where and what kind thread locker or anti-seize is needed if any (I got the optimoly TA for the wheel bolts)?

- Porsche asks for the caliper bolts to be replaced. Do you find that necessary even for a 5k mile car?

- Could you identify the parts that you name in the torque lists in a diagram or picture?

- Anything special about the mounting of the stabilizer bars?

- On marking with ink the location of the top strut bolts, you mean put a circle around them to get the positioning identical?

- Is there a new alignment required once it's all done?

- How long does it take for the whole install and are there any special tools other than the spring compression tools?

Thanks a lot

Yannis

One note. When I tried to get the front taken care of in a C4, the front halfshaft seemed to limit travel of the suspension enough that I could not get the strut out of the wheel well, even with a little bit of spring compression.

Does that half-shaft have to be removed (the whole wheel carrier I guess would have to be disconnected at that point) in order to get the front strut assembly out?

David

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Loosen the drive shaft nut before you raise the car. Then disconnect it at the wheel carrier.

will these basic instructions also work for the PSS9's? I have a 2003 996.

TIA,

Steve

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will these basic instructions also work for the PSS9's? I have a 2003 996.

TIA,

Steve

Yes, but the PSS9's will go faster since the coils are already mounted on the struts.

thanks, Loren. BTW, what is a rough estimate on time???

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Anyone have more info on the C4 installation? What's the halfshaft and driveshaft nut look like? I'm doing the install sunday and can't seem to nail down the exact info for the C4 despite lots of searching...

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My C2 is done. Used a lift and a friend. Total work time from lift to drive off was about 2 hours. Including the time to put the skid plate in the engine. Helped a lot to have a lift and to have both a spring compressor and a pry bar for the rear shock/spring. Taking a little tension off then gently lifting with the pry bar made it a cinch to get the old units out. The pry bar also came in handy when installing the new rear units and trying to replace the bolt.

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I have a '99 C4.

So the driveshaft has to be disconnected? At which end is easier?

How much is the alignment off after this and should I align immediatly or wait a few days for it to settle?

Thanks,

Len

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Disconnect the driveshaft at wheel end only. You will also need to remove the lower balljoint.

I would drive it around some before alignment so the springs are settled.

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I found that you can get an extra 1/2" clearance by straightening the tab on the welded strut aligment bracket.

Just loosen the bolt thru it and raise the strut then straiten the tab which then can be slid down into the slot in the clamp giving you 1/2" additional clearance for removal. I did it on the new ones also which makes it very easy to get back under the fender.

This method also allows a few millimeters of additional lowering by letting the stamped bolt hole rest on the bolt instead of the tab.

BTW this has got to be one of the best mods for a high mileage 996.

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Strut Install question: Does the caliper really have to come off or is this a precaution? I'm just about to start the install and wondering if I can leave the caliper alone. Maybe it has to come off to get enough travel in the wheel carrier? Thanks.

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I think the two concerns are getting the wheel carrier down enough to get the strut out (and in) and not stressing the brake lines too much.

There are only two bolts on the caliper so most folks just take them off and hang them on a wire out the way (so they don't have to disconnect the brake line).

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could anyone please give some feedback on the handling improvements.. I own an 02 C2 and I am just about to buy the ROW MO30 suspension kit.. I would like to know how does the car feel after\before.. my car came with the US base suspension..

Thanks

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Strut Install question: Does the caliper really have to come off or is this a precaution? I'm just about to start the install and wondering if I can leave the caliper alone. Maybe it has to come off to get enough travel in the wheel carrier? Thanks.

In case it helps the next guy, I'll answer my own question: The front calipers need to come off of the rotor to allow enough travel in the wheel carrier to get the strut out. The rear calipers do not need to be removed. Funny, this is exactly what the original poster's instrctions say to do. :notworthy:

Also, I've seen some posts where guys say they did the job without spring compressors. Working alone, I'm glad I bought a set - $50 from Sears.

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Strut removal question:

I cant seem to remove the stabilizer mount from the strut spindle assembly and the strut seems to be frozen solid as well. Has anyone come accross this problem before? My cars done 126000mile so I expected a few rusty bits. Ive tried WD40, a bit rubber mallet, a screw driver to chip all the old bits away and quite a bit of brute force. Stuck solid. Any help would be very gratefully received. One thing I did think was that maybe I have to buy a new assembly and remove the old one at the base and build up again.

Many Thanks in advance.......

Andrew

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It sounds like you are referring to the front strut ? Just make sure the pinch bolt is completely loose and use a pry bar underneath levering it up. You can work on the Sway bar link once you get the strut off and have more room to work.

Strut removal question:

I cant seem to remove the stabilizer mount from the strut spindle assembly and the strut seems to be frozen solid as well. Has anyone come accross this problem before? My cars done 126000mile so I expected a few rusty bits. Ive tried WD40, a bit rubber mallet, a screw driver to chip all the old bits away and quite a bit of brute force. Stuck solid. Any help would be very gratefully received. One thing I did think was that maybe I have to buy a new assembly and remove the old one at the base and build up again.

Many Thanks in advance.......

Andrew

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