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drpaulmarsh

RoW M030 Sport Suspension Install

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RoW M030 Sport Suspension Install


by drpaulmarsh, Ryan Hanson & Hans Wiederrich   Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Front Strut Removal and Installation: 1. Loosen lug nuts slightly and block rear wheels. 2. Remove the shroud on the trunk with a torx screwdriver. 3. Mark the location of the three (3) 13 mm bolts on the top of the trunk that holds the strut to the body with a ink pen. 4. Jack up the car and r

 

Edited by drpaulmarsh

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Very nice and detailed description that compeled me to try it on my '03 C2 Targa.

Before starting I need a bit of help clarifying a few things:

- Where and what kind thread locker or anti-seize is needed if any (I got the optimoly TA for the wheel bolts)?

- Porsche asks for the caliper bolts to be replaced. Do you find that necessary even for a 5k mile car?

- Could you identify the parts that you name in the torque lists in a diagram or picture?

- Anything special about the mounting of the stabilizer bars?

- On marking with ink the location of the top strut bolts, you mean put a circle around them to get the positioning identical?

- Is there a new alignment required once it's all done?

- How long does it take for the whole install and are there any special tools other than the spring compression tools?

Thanks a lot

Yannis

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Very nice and detailed description that compeled me to try it on my '03 C2 Targa.

Before starting I need a bit of help clarifying a few things:

- Where and what kind thread locker or anti-seize is needed if any (I got the optimoly TA for the wheel bolts)?

- Porsche asks for the caliper bolts to be replaced. Do you find that necessary even for a 5k mile car?

- Could you identify the parts that you name in the torque lists in a diagram or picture?

- Anything special about the mounting of the stabilizer bars?

- On marking with ink the location of the top strut bolts, you mean put a circle around them to get the positioning identical?

- Is there a new alignment required once it's all done?

- How long does it take for the whole install and are there any special tools other than the spring compression tools?

Thanks a lot

Yannis

One note. When I tried to get the front taken care of in a C4, the front halfshaft seemed to limit travel of the suspension enough that I could not get the strut out of the wheel well, even with a little bit of spring compression.

Does that half-shaft have to be removed (the whole wheel carrier I guess would have to be disconnected at that point) in order to get the front strut assembly out?

David

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Loosen the drive shaft nut before you raise the car. Then disconnect it at the wheel carrier.

will these basic instructions also work for the PSS9's? I have a 2003 996.

TIA,

Steve

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will these basic instructions also work for the PSS9's? I have a 2003 996.

TIA,

Steve

Yes, but the PSS9's will go faster since the coils are already mounted on the struts.

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will these basic instructions also work for the PSS9's? I have a 2003 996.

TIA,

Steve

Yes, but the PSS9's will go faster since the coils are already mounted on the struts.

thanks, Loren. BTW, what is a rough estimate on time???

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Anyone have more info on the C4 installation? What's the halfshaft and driveshaft nut look like? I'm doing the install sunday and can't seem to nail down the exact info for the C4 despite lots of searching...

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My C2 is done. Used a lift and a friend. Total work time from lift to drive off was about 2 hours. Including the time to put the skid plate in the engine. Helped a lot to have a lift and to have both a spring compressor and a pry bar for the rear shock/spring. Taking a little tension off then gently lifting with the pry bar made it a cinch to get the old units out. The pry bar also came in handy when installing the new rear units and trying to replace the bolt.

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I have a '99 C4.

So the driveshaft has to be disconnected? At which end is easier?

How much is the alignment off after this and should I align immediatly or wait a few days for it to settle?

Thanks,

Len

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Disconnect the driveshaft at wheel end only. You will also need to remove the lower balljoint.

I would drive it around some before alignment so the springs are settled.

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I found that you can get an extra 1/2" clearance by straightening the tab on the welded strut aligment bracket.

Just loosen the bolt thru it and raise the strut then straiten the tab which then can be slid down into the slot in the clamp giving you 1/2" additional clearance for removal. I did it on the new ones also which makes it very easy to get back under the fender.

This method also allows a few millimeters of additional lowering by letting the stamped bolt hole rest on the bolt instead of the tab.

BTW this has got to be one of the best mods for a high mileage 996.

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Strut Install question: Does the caliper really have to come off or is this a precaution? I'm just about to start the install and wondering if I can leave the caliper alone. Maybe it has to come off to get enough travel in the wheel carrier? Thanks.

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I think the two concerns are getting the wheel carrier down enough to get the strut out (and in) and not stressing the brake lines too much.

There are only two bolts on the caliper so most folks just take them off and hang them on a wire out the way (so they don't have to disconnect the brake line).

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could anyone please give some feedback on the handling improvements.. I own an 02 C2 and I am just about to buy the ROW MO30 suspension kit.. I would like to know how does the car feel after\before.. my car came with the US base suspension..

Thanks

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Strut Install question: Does the caliper really have to come off or is this a precaution? I'm just about to start the install and wondering if I can leave the caliper alone. Maybe it has to come off to get enough travel in the wheel carrier? Thanks.

In case it helps the next guy, I'll answer my own question: The front calipers need to come off of the rotor to allow enough travel in the wheel carrier to get the strut out. The rear calipers do not need to be removed. Funny, this is exactly what the original poster's instrctions say to do. :notworthy:

Also, I've seen some posts where guys say they did the job without spring compressors. Working alone, I'm glad I bought a set - $50 from Sears.

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Strut removal question:

I cant seem to remove the stabilizer mount from the strut spindle assembly and the strut seems to be frozen solid as well. Has anyone come accross this problem before? My cars done 126000mile so I expected a few rusty bits. Ive tried WD40, a bit rubber mallet, a screw driver to chip all the old bits away and quite a bit of brute force. Stuck solid. Any help would be very gratefully received. One thing I did think was that maybe I have to buy a new assembly and remove the old one at the base and build up again.

Many Thanks in advance.......

Andrew

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It sounds like you are referring to the front strut ? Just make sure the pinch bolt is completely loose and use a pry bar underneath levering it up. You can work on the Sway bar link once you get the strut off and have more room to work.

Strut removal question:

I cant seem to remove the stabilizer mount from the strut spindle assembly and the strut seems to be frozen solid as well. Has anyone come accross this problem before? My cars done 126000mile so I expected a few rusty bits. Ive tried WD40, a bit rubber mallet, a screw driver to chip all the old bits away and quite a bit of brute force. Stuck solid. Any help would be very gratefully received. One thing I did think was that maybe I have to buy a new assembly and remove the old one at the base and build up again.

Many Thanks in advance.......

Andrew

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