Loren

Removing and installing drive belt - Cayenne S Removal 1. Remove the front engine compartment cover. 2. Pull the cover of the throttle body vertically upwards. 3. Separate the electrical connection from the throttle adjuster. To do this, press on the plug at the top and bottom and, at the same time, pull off. Unclip the cable from the sheetmetal holder. 4. Release the fastening bolts on the throttle body. To do this, turn the bolts 45 degrees anti-clockwise. The spot on the bolts must lie as shown in the picture. 5. Remove the fastening bolts. To do this, take hold of the bolt by the rubber ring with pliers and pull it out. 6. Pull off the Y pipe from the throttle body. 7. Disconnect the air flow sensors. To do this, undo the hose clamps on the left and right on the bellows and pull the bellows off the air flow sensors. 8. Remove the hose line on the Y pipe. To do this, press button and disconnect vacuum line. 9. Mark the direction of movement of the drive belt with chalk. 10. Relieve and remove drive belt. To do this, use a wrench (a/f 30) to turn the belt tensioner clockwise and remove the drive belt from the tensioning roller. Subsequently relieve the belt tensioner slowly. 11. Remove drive belt from all pulleys. Installation 1. Make the belt into a loop and place over the crankshaft belt pulley behind the dipstick. 2. Place the top part of the belt loop over the coolant pump pulley 1. 3. Place the lower part of the belt loop around the crankshaft belt pulley at the bottom 2. 4. Guide the belt section from the coolant pump around the deflector wheel 3 on cylinder bank 5 - 8. 5. Then guide the section of the belt around the air conditioning compressor belt pulley 4 at the bottom. 6. Then lay a loop around the power pump 5. 7. Guide the loose end of the drive belt from the coolant pump downwards and place around the generator belt pulley 6 and deflector roller 7 of cylinder bank 1 - 4. 8. Gather the belt section between the deflector roller of cylinder bank 1 - 4 and the crankshaft belt pulley to form a loop and guide it upwards to the tensioning roller -8- . Use a wrench (a/f 30) to turn the tensioning roller -8- clockwise at the hexagon and put on the drive belt. Slowly relieve the tensioning roller. 9. Check whether the drive belt is correctly positioned on the pulleys. 10. Attach vacuum line to the underside of the Y pipe. 11. Slide bellows onto the air flow sensors and tighten the hose clamps. 12. Slide the Y pipe onto the throttle adjuster. Then insert the left and right fastening bolts. Turn bolts 45 degrees clockwise. 13. Connect throttle adjuster. The connector must engage audibly. Clip connecting cable into the sheetmetal holder. 14. Press the 4 rubber elements in the cover onto the 4 ball socket holders. The fastening elements must be felt to engage. 15. Install the front engine compartment cover

Removing the drive belt 1. Remove front engine compartment cover. 2. Pull engine cover vertically upwards and off. 3. Remove connector tube from air cleaner to engine. To do this, loosen the tube clamp on the engine, unplug the electric connector on the mass air-flow meter and remove the two fastening pins on the air cleaner cover. 4. Remove the vacuum line on the throttle body from the connector tube. Then take the pressure pipe out of the engine compartment. 5. Mark the direction of motion of the drive belt with chalk. 6. Slacken off the belt tensioner. To do this, screw an M8 x 50 screw into the belt tensioner. Do not turn the belt tensioner as far as the stop; only slacken the tensioner until the drive belt is loose. 7. Remove the drive belt from all pulleys. Installing the drive belt 1. Place drive belt around the crankshaft gearwheel and bundle in left direction of travel. 2. Guide the top end of the belt around the coolant pump. Then, position the belt vertically (turn by 90°) and guide in behind the belt tensioner. 3. Guide the lower end of the belt on the crankshaft gearwheel around the air-conditioning compressor and then around the hydraulic pump. Push the belt upwards from there. 4. Guide the drive belt over the drive roller of the generator and then pull a loop down around the deflection roller and lay into position. 5. Check that the drive belt is positioned correctly on the pulleys. 6. Fit the intake manifold. To do this, push the intake manifold onto the throttle body and fit the vacuum line at the same time. Then attach the other end to the cover of the air cleaner housing. 7. Attach the hose clamp, the electric connector on the mass air-flow meter and the 2 fastening pins on the air cleaner housing. 8. Press the 4 rubber elements in the cover onto the 4 ball socket holders. The fastening elements must be felt to engage. 9. Fit front engine compartment cover.

Checking the free play of the parking brake lever The parking brake has asbestos-free brake linings. The parking brake with asbestos-free brake linings must never be adjusted in such a way that the lining must "grind down"during operation. The parking brake must be adjusted if the parking brake lever can be pulled up by more than 4 teeth with medium force application without a braking effect being apparent. There are two adjustments - at the wheels and at the handbrake handle itself. To adjust: 1. Remove the rear wheels. 2. Release the parking brake lever and push back the brake pads of the rear axle until the brake disc can be turned freely. 3. Undo the adjustment nuts on the turnbuckle (arrow) until the cables are without pretension. 4. With a screwdriver, adjust the adjustment fixture through a threaded wheel bolt hole until the wheel can no longer be turned. Next, turn back the adjustment fixture through 5 notches again (release approx. 3 notches until the wheel can be turned freely, then release another 2 notches). Repeat the procedure on the other wheel. 5. Pull up the parking brake lever by 2 teeth and turn the adjustment nut of the turnbuckle until both wheels can be turned manually with difficulty. 6. Release the parking brake lever and check whether both wheels can be turned freely.

Removal 1. Disconnect the battery and cover terminal or battery. Undo the fastening screw for the air cleaner housing and the hose clamp on the throttle body. 2. Disconnect the electrical plug connection on the air flow sensor and remove the complete air cleaner assembly. 3. Relieve the drive belt at the tensioning pulley and remove the belt. 4. Disconnect the electrical plug connection on the vacuum switchover valve and unclip the switchover valve from the holder. 5. Undo the holder at the intake distributor (2 screws) and remove. Pay attention to the sealing ring (vacuum line for brake booster) when removing. 6. Undo left fastening screw (in direction of travel) and unscrew. 7. Undo right fastening screw (with deflection roller) by three turns. A gentle tap on the fastening screw loosens the threaded bushing in the generator arm (use aluminum mandrel). Unscrew fastening screw and remove with deflection roller. 8. The generator must be turned clockwise so that the swivel arm is near the crankcase and the holding arm projects beyond the fastening eye. 9. Carefully pull the generator back a little and undo the electrical connections, or press the plug connection to the generator housing, release (arrow A) and pull off. Pullout generator to the rear. Installation Tightening torques: Hexagon nut a/f24 M16 x 1.5 = 48 +-3.5 ftlb. (65 +-5 Nm) Hexagon-head bolts M10 = 33 ftlb. (45 Nm) Hexagon nut a/f13 M8 = 11.0 ftlb. (15 Nm) Note When carrying out installation, make sure that the sealing ring for the vacuum brake booster is replaced and carefully fitted. Undoing and tightening the belt pulley Note The belt pulley can be undone and tightened using a standard commercially available tool. Tools: double offset ring wrench a/f 24, screwdriver insert for internal serration screw a/f 10, cross handle and torque wrench. The hexagon nut a/f 24 must be countered with the ring wrench during tightening. The shaft is tightened to the prescribed tightening torque of 48 +-3.5 ftlb. (65 +-5 Nm) using the screwdriver insert and the torque wrench. Tool for holding the free-wheel pulley For Carrera 996 (manual transmission only) from engine No. 66 Y 03208 Use an a/f 17 multiple-tooth adapter to hold the free-wheel pulley. A/f 17 multiple-tooth adapter: see Workshop Equipment Manual, chapter on commercially available tools, No. 32-1. Note Counter with a double ring wrench when tightening with the a/f 17 multiple-tooth adapter. The shaft is tightened to the prescribed tightening torque of 59 +- 3.5 ftlb. (80 +-5 Nm) using the screwdriver insert (a/f 10 internal serration screw) and torque wrench.

Removal 1. Disconnect the battery and cover the terminal or battery. Remove the complete air cleaner assembly. 2. Disconnect the line from the tank venting valve and the electrical plug connection. Disconnect the electrical plug connections at the idle speed positioner and throttle potentiometer. 3. Disengage accelerator cable and remove throttle body. Pull off vacuum check valve. 4. Disconnect the vent line for the oil separator at the intake distributor. Undo all hose clamps (4 ea.) at the intake distributor and push the rubber sleeves to the side. Pull out intake distributor to the rear. 5. Pullback protective cap on the starter cable and undo cable terminal 30 (M8)and terminal 50 (M6)at the starter. 6. Undo the upper fastening screw. To do this, use the following 3/8 inch tool: 3 long extensions, cross handle, universal joint and hexagon socket wrench insert a/f 15. The joints can be secured using adhesive tape. 7. Undo the lower fastening screw from the right generator mounting side. 8. Carefully remove the starter from the engine compartment to the rear. Installation Tightening torques: Terminal 30 -- Nut M8 15 Nm (11 ftlb.) Terminal 50 -- Nut M6 6.5 Nm (5 ftlb.) Hexagon-head bolt -- M10 45 Nm (33 ftlb.) 1. The angled cable lug of terminal 50 (M6) faces in driving direction (transmission) after assembly. 2. Carefully center the intake distributor. Push both rubber sleeves onto the intake distributor up to the marking (line) and secure (2 hose clamps). (Arrow shows marking (line) on the intake distributor) 3. Check bore in the rubber sleeves for check valve and vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator for clear passage. 4. Engage accelerator cable and install throttle body. Fit fastening screw M6 x 20 at the bottom right. 5. Tighten the outer hose clamps of the rubber sleeve after securing the throttle body on the hydraulic pump housing. The throttle body must not contact the hydraulic pump housing. 6. The intake system must be checked for leaks after assembly (visual inspection).

Cylinder Order (engine is turned 180 degrees for Boxster/Cayman) Cylinders 1,2,3 = bank 1 Cylinders 4,5,6 = bank 2 DME Sensors 1 - Mass air flow sensor 2 - Engine temperature sensor 3 - VarioCam valve 4 - Ignition coil 5 - Tank venting valve 6 - Secondary air pump 7 - Throttle potentiometer 8 - Idle speed air control valve 9 - Injection valve 10 - Knock sensors 11 - Hall-effect sensors 12 - Engine compartment temperature sensor 13 - Oil temperature sensor 14 - Resonance flap

Thanks to Sandy for this great DIY... (I've done this on my car and it is not very hard to do. The instructions are very detailed.) Sidemaker_mod.pdf

Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Tools you will need: Crimping tool Soldering Iron Hot airgun (or hair dryer) Parts For MY99-MY01 use: 996.616.101.00 For MY02 and newer use: 996.616.141.00 Heat shrink tubing (fairly large) Electrical tape (optional) Note: The ballast resistor is available as a spare part and can be replaced by crimping it onto the old wires. 1. Disconnect the battery and cover the terminal or battery. 2. Unclip ballast resistor from the holder from below. 3. Cut off wires approx. 30 mm behind the old ballast resistor. 4. Slide heat-shrink tubing over the wires to the plug connections (2x) and to the fan motor (1x). 5. Shorten wires of the new ballast resistor to approx. 30 mm and strip approx. 5 mm of insulation off all wire ends. 6. Using a commercially available crimping tool, join the wires with crimp connectors. 7. After crimping, solder the crimp connectors. Slide heat-shrink tubing over the crimp connectors and then shrink the tubing with a hot airgun. 8. Carefully route the wires and, if necessary, fix in place with plastic tape.

This is the Porsche Club site for the San Francisco region.

See Robin's DIY at his site: 996 Water pump replacement/ Alternate PDF file (if link does not work) 996_water_pump_replacement_procedure.pdf 996_water_pump_replacement_procedure.pdf

Many folks have asked how to remove the front bumper to clean the radiators or replace the horns. So many that we thought it deserved it's own DIY here. We hope to add some pictures to this soon (since I keep forgetting to take them). Also see JeTexas excellent video DIY: Porsche 996 986 Front Bumper Removal Removing the Front Bumper 1. Remove the plastic rivet on the wheel liner (near the sidemarker). 2. Remove the center cover from the inside of the front trunk. Turn hexagon cap nut 2 by 90° and remove cover upwards and off 3. Undo sheetmetal screws 4 from the front end 1. 3. Remove the sidemarker light. Press in spring clip of direction indicator light (arrow) A at the sides with a screwdriver and take out the direction indicator light 5, disconnect electrical plug connection (by squeezing the metal clip to release it). 4. Remove the screws from the bottom side of the bumper. Remove the sheetmetal screws 6 and spacer sleeve 7 from the retaining strips on the left and right. 5. Remove the temperature sender probe. Press temperature sensor 10 out of the inlet grille. You can either disconnect the electrical connection and set it aside or leave it attached. 6. Remove the center screws from the bottom side of the bumper 12. Also remove the two plastic rivets 11 on each side of the bottom bumper edge. Remove bumper by lifting slightly and pulling it off to the front. Installing the Front Bumper 1. Position front bumper over the bumper mount on the vehicle. Screw in the center fastening screws on the underside 12 and push the plastic rivets 11 back into place. 2. Position the front bumper to the retaining strip (on each side) and fasten it with the sheetmetal screw 6 and spacer sleeve 7. 3. Fasten the front trunk end 1 with the sheetmetal screws 4 and the spacer sleeves 7. Important: Before tightening these down check the bumper height in relation to the front trunk. When it is properly positioned the front bumper should be even with the front trunk lid or just slightly higher than the trunk lid. Failure to do so will cause wind noise. If needed get someone to hold it in position while you tighten down the sheetmetal screws. Position the cover 3, turn hexagon cap nuts 2 by 90°. 4. Insert electrical plug connection of the sidemarker lights 5. Insert locking tab (arrow) of the direction indicator light in the front end and clip in the sheetmetal clip (to lock them in place). 5. Press temperature sensor 10 into the inlet grille.

Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts Needed: 955.512.550.03 Rear Lid Dampers (2 required) Removal Notes: - To remove the pneumatic springs, they must be in idle state: rear lid open. - The rear lid must be secured against accidental closure after removing the pneumatic springs. - Pneumatic springs must not be opened using force extreme internal pressure. Note: Some of the interior lining pieces can be fragile so handle them with care. 1. Open rear window and rear lid. 2. Remove rear roof lining: - Unclip interior light on the roof lining. - Pull off plug. - Unclip roof lining at marked positions. To do so, lift the lining slightly at the rear and lever the clip connection out using a screwdriver. 3. Remove the D−pillar trim: Note: When unclipping the D−pillar trim using a tool, make sure not to damage the electrical wires lying behind it and the head airbag. - Open cover for luggage compartment net partition. - Unscrew fastening screw. - Unclip D−pillar trim (5 locations in the middle) from the interior D−pillar. To do so, raise trim slightly and lever out the fastening clips using a screwdriver. - Unclip D−pillar trim where it joins rear side trim. - Unclip D−pillar trim from interior D−pillar at the bottom. To do so, raise trim slightly and lever out the fastening clips using a screwdriver. - Only in vehicles with BOSE sound system: Pull off plug from the loudspeaker. - Remove D−pillar trim. 4. Remove rear grab handles at left and right: - Unfold grab handle, Unclip cover, Unscrew fastening screws. - Remove grab handle. 5. Unscrew the fastening screws . 6. Unclip and remove the deformation element. 7. Cut open the bonded joint on the cover with a knife and remove the cover. 8. Remove any sealant residue on the cover and on the body. 9. Secure rear lid so that it cannot fall shut accidentally. It is very heavy and one strut will not hold it up. 10. Loosen the retaining clips on the pneumatic spring for the rear lid at the ball sockets using a screwdriver and remove the clips. 11. Pull the pneumatic spring for the rear lid from the ball heads and remove. Installation 1. Place the retaining clips on the pneumatic spring for the rear lid at the ball sockets and press into position. 2. Press the pneumatic spring for the rear lid on to the ball heads until the retaining clips engage perceptibly. 3. Apply Klebt und Dichtet sealant to the cover and stick on the cover. Note: After sticking on the cover, allow the sealant to dry for about 60 minutes. 4. Position and clip in the deformation element . 5. Insert the fastening screws and tighten to the 2 ftlbs (3 Nm). 6. Install rear grab handles at left and right (reverse of above). 7. Install D−pillar trim (reverse of above). 8. Install rear roof lining (reverse of above). 9. Remove the rear lid bracing device and carefully test the lid. Note: Be sure to see the DIY Video that Contributing Member rizzo put together - here

Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. (Special thanks to Chuck Jones for being the guinea pig and for taking the photos.) Parts you will need: 997.624.113.00 Actuator Tools you will need: Very short Torx T20 driver and right angle ratchet or tool to use the short T20 in a very confined space Regular screwdriver, phillips screw driver, and 10 mm wrench to remove th wheel well liner 1. Jack the car so that right front wheel is off the ground and secure it with a jack stand. Remove the right front wheel. 2. Remove the wheel well liner by removing the the plastics rivets (pry them out with a regular screwdriver). As well remove the 10 mm nuts on each side of the axle. Now remove the phillips screws that fasten the wheel well liner under the front bumper and remove the wheel well liner (and set aside). 3. Locate the EVAP canister and remove the electrical connection at the top of the canister. Now remove the 10 mm nut that holds the canister in place. Remove gas the vapor lines - one at the top and one at the bottom (again by squeezing the connectors). Remove the EVAP canister by pulling gently back and forth until it releases from the rubber gromments 4. Look back up under the fender (now that the canister is out of the way) and locate the broken actuator. Now using the stubby Torx T-20 loose (but do not remove) the two T-20 screws. The actuator itself is a bit tough to get to and you will need a really short T-20 Torx head to loosen the two screws. I say loosen because that is all you need to do to remove the part - it sits in two "U" shaped slots. Remove the electrical connector (by squeezing the tab). Here is a pic of the new part - as you see the Torx screws are already in place so that is all you have to do to replace it. 5. Put the new part in place making sure you feed the emergency pull line through the fender to its location in the door jam. There is room to slide it through the side so you don't need to try and thread it through the hole. Fasten the two Torx screws and reconnect the electrical connector. Chuck's car had the guide rose guide piece missing (so he needed to order one) Here is a pic of his car (without guide rose) and my car (with guide rose). Ref. P/N 997.624.505.00 We also noticed that on his car the plastic catch for the lock was missing (so he needed to order that too). Here is a pic of his car (without cap) and my car (with cap). Ref. P/N 996.201.243.00 6. Reinstall the EVAP canister by pushing it into place on the rubber gromments. Then reattach the vapor lines (they should snap back into place) and the electrical connection. Finally put the 10 mm nut back in place and tighten down. 7. Reinstall the wheel well liner (reverse of removal). 8. Mount the tire, lower the car and re-torque the wheel bolts. Done.

The following is provided by one of our Contributing Members. Sirius Installation Instructions - Porsche 997 C2S For Car With BOSE But No NAV Or CD Changer DISCLAIMER: PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK- YOU WILL PROBABLY VOID YOUR WARRANTY AND YOU MAY RISK CAUSING DAMAGE TO YOUR VEHICLE FOR WHICH YOU WILL BE SOLELY RESPONSIBLE. BACKGROUND: This installation was performed on a C2S model with the latest PCM software, the Bose audio option but no CD changer or NAV option installed. These instructions are SPECIFIC to a car without NAV or the CD changer as there is no fiber optic cable to pick up a connection near the position you will mount the SIRIUS unit. You will therefore have to pick up the fiber optics closer to the amplifier in the lower portion of the luggage compartment adjacent to the luggage lamp. It is a slightly more difficult installation than one for a vehicle with an existing NAV or CD changer. Vehicles with NAV systems (and/or CD changers) will have a fiber optic cable closer to the SIRIUS unit that can be disconnected and run through the cable supplied with the kit. In these cases, there should be no no need to replace the fiber optic cable from the amplifier and as pictured elsewhere in the forum should be a simpler installation. In contrast with previously described installation instructions, it was NOT necessary to remove the cowl and windshield wipers or disconnect hoses and wires fed through to the cowl. Order Sirius Cayenne kit (specify that you want Sirius for the CD changer option whether you have a CD Changer or not) - the cable is required for this installation. No cutting, soldering, or wire splicing was necessary for this installation. Everything is essentially plug and play but the difficulty lies in removing plastic panels, getting access to the various components, and identifying the correct cables (and plugs) necessary for the installation. I would NOT recommend this as a DIY project for anyone who does not have a good amount of experience with electrical work, automotive/audio electronics, or sophisticated computer equipment installation. There are three major cable runs. 1) Power from car to SIRIUS unit, 2) bypass of the fiber optic cable that travels from the car to the audio amplifier through SIRIUS unit, and 3) antenna cable from SIRIUS unit to antenna mounted under cowl. There are two items that need to be mounted: the SIRIUS unit itself, and the multi-purpose antenna (plugs for SAT and GPS). NOTES: I found it necessary to dismantle the fiber optic / power supply cable bundle by removing the black spiral adhesive tape and white adhesive labels separating the orange fiber optic cables pair from the power supply cable. I also separated an antenna wire pair from another bundle with other lines and tubing specific to the Cayenne and unneeded for the 911 install. There was one orange fiber optic and one antenna cable left over at the end of the installation in addition to a myriad of other Cayenne specific small parts. The Cayenne satellite install TSB is worth reviewing but is largely useless for this installation. Note that all fiber optic plugs have black plastic protective covers which must be removed before they are connected. Perform all installation procedures with the key turned off and removed from the ignition. Porsche seems to recommend disconnection of the battery for electrical work on their vehicle. STEP BY STEP: 1. Remove ALL accessible plastic access covers from interior of luggage compartment with the exception of the headlight/turn signal access panels. You will need to access to the area where the CD changer and NAV are usually mounted, the area under the cowl above the cabin air filter, and the amplifier component stored behind the flat tire tools. I removed the largest plastic piece (requires removal of approximately 4-6 phillips screws) and disconnection of the luggage compartment lamp effected by pulling a small plug from a receptacle just behind the lamp. Note its orientation when you disconnect it so you can reconnect it properly at the end of the installation. Other panel and carpet fasteners are removed as needed. The cowl directly under the windshield wipers may be left in place (it can not be removed without the disconnection of windshield washer tubing and removal of the wiper themselves). 2. Remove the molded carpet pieces in the CD changer / NAV area (passenger side of the luggage compartment) and place the Sirius unit towars the center of the luggage compartment with cable receptacles facing forward. I secured the unit at the end of the installation with two sheet metal screws through the carpet into the metal frame designed to hold audio components. (This is shown in photographs in other posts). Plastic ties would work nicely here too. 3. Locate the spare (and hidden) BLACK/WHITE/RED/BROWN power supply plug tucked beneath the carpet on far left side of compartment which you will need to bring power to the unit. Plug one end of the supplied power cable into this plug and the other end into the Sirius unit. Note that this may not be possible (plug won't physically reach power supply) unless the power cable has been separated from the orange fiber optic cable in the fiber optic bundle and re-directed in the opposite direction. There will be a remaining unused plug on this cable (on the power supply end) which can be used to power a CD Changer or NAV should you add it later. 4. Locate the ORANGE fiber optic plug which plugs into the amplifier (component with ventilation fins behind the tire repair tools) behind its wiring harness. This plug is hidden from view and is NOT clearly visible. It must be traced from a bundle of the car's wires just to the right of the amplifier unit near the luggage compartment lamp on the driver's side of the vehicle. 5. Identify the ORANGE fiber optic cable supplied in the kit with MALE -and- FEMALE plugs that branch off approximately 4 to 5 inches from each other forming a 'Y'. Work with this end of the cable for this step. 6. Locate the ORANGE fiber optic cable (with a black plug) connected to the amplifier just behind the wiring harness (and out of sight) and disconnect. Plug this male component into the FEMALE plug on the end of the MALE/FEMALE cable end as described above. Connect the MALE plug into the amplifier behind the wiring harness. Be very careful not to damage, crush, or over-bend the fiber optic cable which runs as part of a bundle from the car as failing to do so will necessitate a very expensive not covered by warranty service visit. Remember that fiber optic cables have a bend radius that if exceed DESTROYS the cable and will also make future troubleshooting difficult. Plug the opposite end of the cable (also a MALE) into the Sirius unit after feeding and routing the cable under the carpet. 7. Plug the antennae cable (brown/green) into the receptacles on the Sirius unit. Locate the purple dual antenna plug on the opposite end of this first antenna cable and connect it to the dual purple plug of the second antenna cable. When the two antenna cables are connected (via the purple plugs) there will be 15-20' of antenna cable left to coil and tie off. Feed the WHITE and PURPLE 90 degree (right-angle) plugs through an available rubber grommet securing it as needed with ties along the way and run it to a space just over the air filter. At this point, you connect the Sirius antenna with the black side facing up. It should be especially snug in the position under the cowl and over the air filter and can be further secured with double sided tape as needed. Note that it may be possible to better secure the antenna (without removing the cowl) by removing the air filter and its enclosure. There should be a receptacle on the underside of the cowl for a phillips screw to secure the SAT/GPS antenna. A flat ratchet wrench type screwdriver with an offset should allow you to drive the screw in the limited space available but I have not experimented with this approach yet. 8. Tie up loose cables with supplied plastic ties. Run wires where possible under carpet and be sure to take care to protect the orange fiber optic cables.. Record the SIRIUS I.D. # in the small print (not the CRIN #) from the label on the unit which you will need for activation. Replace plastic panels. Make sure the car is located outside with a clear view of the sky in all directions. Turn ignition to ACC position. If for some reason, PCM doesn't power up or appear to be functioning normally, you have made a mistake and should go back and check your work. 9. Press Audio button and Press FM/AM band select button and PCM should recognize the satellite unit and show the message "acquiring signal". The default channel is 147 or 148 and you need to hear the programming before proceeding or you must go back and check your connections. Contact Sirius with the unit's ID # to receive 3 free months and activate the unit. Total working time was 2 hours and 30 minutes exclusive of activation with almost 50% of the time spent identifying unfamiliar parts. I believe I could do a second installation in 90 minutes or less.

Removing the engine drive belt 1. Remove the complete air cleaner assembly (1). - Undo hexagon head bolt M6 x 34. - Undo the hose clamp on the throttle body. - Remove the connector for the mass air flow sensor (MAF) and remove air cleaner assembly. 2. Loosen servo pump wheel (2). - Mark belt travel direction with a colored pen (if you are going to re-use the belt). - Undo the three hexagon head bolts on the servo pump by approx. one half turn. 3. Relieve drive belt (3). - To do this, turn the tensioning roller clockwise and simultaneously remove the belt from the drive pulleys. 4. Remove servo pump wheel (4). Note - Only remove the servo pump wheel when the drive belt tension is completely relieved! - Remove servo pump wheel with drive belt to the rear. - Remove the belt from all drive wheels and lift up to remove. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Installation of the engine drive belt 1. Fit drive belt (1). - Fit the belt onto the drive wheels. 2. Position servo pump wheel (2). - Put on the servo pump wheel together with the drive belt. - Slightly tighten the three fastening screws on the servo pump wheel. 3. Tension drive belt (3). Note - It is absolutely necessary to check that the drive belt is correctly seated on all belt pulleys! - To tension the drive belt, turn the tensioning roller 7 in clockwise direction and simultaneously fit the drive belt on the deflection roller 8. - Then slowly relieve. To do this, turn the tensioning roller slowly counter−clockwise (anti-clockwise). 4. Tighten fastening screws on servo pump (4). - Tighten the fastening screws of the servo pump drive wheel. Tightening torque: 17 ftlb. (23 Nm) 5. Install air cleaner assembly (5). - Attach connector onto mass air flow sensor (MAF). - Tighten the hose clamp on the throttle body. - Tighten the M6 x 34 hexagon−head bolt to 7.5 ftlb. (10 Nm)

Look up where you can recycle used motor oil, filters, brake fluid, antifreeze, etc.

Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 1 ea 996 110 131 71 Air Filter or equal (BMC or K&N Filter) Tools you will need: 10 mm socket or wrench Regular screwdriver Phillips screwdriver Remove the complete air cleaner assembly. Remove the hexagon-head bolt M6 x 34. Remove the hose clamp on the throttle body. Pull off plug from hot film mass air flow sensor and completely remove air cleaner assembly. (10 mm wrench) Remove the captive fastening screws (9 ea.), remove air cleaner. Clean air cleaner housing and air cleaner cover. Insert new air filter insert. Reinstall in reverse order.

Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 1 ea 996 107 225 52 (or 996 107 225 53) Oil Filter (with large O-ring) 1 ea 999 707 465 40 Small O-ring 1 ea 900 123 010 20 Copper Sealing Ring - Oil Tank 1 ea 900 123 118 30 Aluminum Sealing Ring - Engine 9 ea 996 106 665 55 Mobil 1 0W-40 or equal (approx. 8.5 liters (MY04 GT3 9.0 liters)) Approved Oils as of June 2004 The list is now very long (for worldwide coverage). Here is a short list of popular oils (US/Canada): Castrol Syntec 5W-50 5W-50 ncp G Castrol Syntec 5W-40 5W-40 ncp GL Mobil 1 0W-40 ncp GL (factory fill) Mobil 1 5W-40 ncp GL Mobil 1 5W-50 ncp GL Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 0W-40 ncp GL Texaco Havoline Synthetic 5W-40 ncp GL Note: ncp oils are synthetic (or "non-conventional processing") oils. GL oils have good light running properties because of their light low-temperature viscosity as well as a high level of temperature stability. G rated oils can be used as non-seasonal oil, but do not have the same light running properties as "GL" oils. Tools you will need: Tire ramps or jack 15 mm socket for crankcase drain 27 mm wrench and 19 mm socket for oil tank drain Oil filter wrench (p/n 000 721 920 40) (tool 9204 about $7 to $22 at your dealer) image 9 plus quart oil catch pan Torque wrench (optional) Oil should be changed when the engine has reached normal operating temperature. CAUTION - oil will be hot, take adequate precautions to avoid being burned. Always dispose of the waste oil in accordance with local legal requirements. Use ramps or jack up the vehicle at the points provided. Remove the oil drain screw and collect the engine oil in a disposal container (at least 9 quarts). Wait about 20 minutes for the old oil to drain. Then clean the oil drain screw and screw it back in with a new aluminium sealing ring. Tightening torque is 52 ft-lb. Remove the oil tank drain screw (19 mm) while holding the nut above it with another (27 mm) wrench (this avoids twisting the tank itself). Collect the engine oil in a disposal container. Wait about 20 minutes for the old oil to drain. Then clean the oil tank drain screw and screw it back in with a new sealing ring. Tightening torque is 44 ft-lb. Remove the oil filter using the oil filter wrench. Pull off and dispose of the old oil filter element. Clean the oil filter housing thoroughly inside and outside and replace the two O-rings. The new O-rings will go on easier if a light amount of oil is on them. Do not put them on with a screwdriver or other sharp object as a sharp object will damage the O-ring. Remove the remaining quantity of oil from the oil filter housing by suction. Install the new filter element. Lightly apply oil to the housing threads. Install oil filter housing and tighten to 19 ft-lb. Fill with engine oil. The oil change quantity is approx. 8.5 liters (MY04 GT3 9.0 liters) after a draining time of approx. 20 minutes.

Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 1 ea 996 107 225 52 (or 996 107 225 53) Oil Filter (with large O-ring) 1 ea 999 707 465 40 Small O-ring 1 ea 900 123 010 20 Copper Sealing Ring - Oil Tank 1 ea 900 123 118 30 Aluminum Sealing Ring - Engine 9 ea 996 106 665 55 Mobil 1 0W-40 or equal (approx. 8.5 liters (MY04 GT3 9.0 liters)) Approved Oils as of June 2004 The list is now very long (for worldwide coverage). Here is a short list of popular oils (US/Canada): Castrol Syntec 5W-50 5W-50 ncp G Castrol Syntec 5W-40 5W-40 ncp GL Mobil 1 0W-40 ncp GL (factory fill) Mobil 1 5W-40 ncp GL Mobil 1 5W-50 ncp GL Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 0W-40 ncp GL Texaco Havoline Synthetic 5W-40 ncp GL Note: ncp oils are synthetic (or "non-conventional processing") oils. GL oils have good light running properties because of their light low-temperature viscosity as well as a high level of temperature stability. G rated oils can be used as non-seasonal oil, but do not have the same light running properties as "GL" oils. Tools you will need: Tire ramps or jack 15 mm socket for crankcase drain 27 mm wrench and 19 mm socket for oil tank drain Oil filter wrench (p/n 000 721 920 40) (tool 9204 about $7 to $22 at your dealer) image 9 plus quart oil catch pan Torque wrench (optional) Oil should be changed when the engine has reached normal operating temperature. CAUTION - oil will be hot, take adequate precautions to avoid being burned. Always dispose of the waste oil in accordance with local legal requirements. Use ramps or jack up the vehicle at the points provided. Remove the oil drain screw and collect the engine oil in a disposal container (at least 9 quarts). Wait about 20 minutes for the old oil to drain. Then clean the oil drain screw and screw it back in with a new aluminium sealing ring. Tightening torque is 52 ft-lb. Remove the oil tank drain screw (19 mm) while holding the nut above it with another (27 mm) wrench (this avoids twisting the tank itself). Collect the engine oil in a disposal container. Wait about 20 minutes for the old oil to drain. Then clean the oil tank drain screw and screw it back in with a new sealing ring. Tightening torque is 44 ft-lb. Remove the oil filter using the oil filter wrench. Pull off and dispose of the old oil filter element. Clean the oil filter housing thoroughly inside and outside and replace the two O-rings. The new O-rings will go on easier if a light amount of oil is on them. Do not put them on with a screwdriver or other sharp object as a sharp object will damage the O-ring. Remove the remaining quantity of oil from the oil filter housing by suction. Install the new filter element. Lightly apply oil to the housing threads. Install oil filter housing and tighten to 19 ft-lb. Fill with engine oil. The oil change quantity is approx. 8.5 liters (MY04 GT3 9.0 liters) after a draining time of approx. 20 minutes.

Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. A third (center) radiator is standard on the Porsche GT3, Boxster S and all Carrera's or Boxster's with Tiptronic transmission. As well, the third radiator is now standard on all X51 Carrera Power Kit (engine power upgrade). Although the Tiptronic radiators are plumbed differently it is obvious that Porsche did this to increase the cooling capacity of these cars. Having great concern for my engine, specifically it's cooling in the hot California weather and... knowing that what Porsche does for it's competition cars is usually a good (yet sometimes expensive) idea for our street (sometimes tracked) cars. I decided to add the GT3 radiator to my 1999 Carrera Coupe (w/factory aerokit). The goal being that extra amount of protection that the additional cooling capacity adds. Initial tests show that the highest temperatures (after hard driving) have gone down 10-20°F (7-12°C) after this installation. Here is my installation procedure: It took me 4-5 hours taking pictures and cleaning. I would expect this can be done in 3-4 hours (or less). Parts you will need GT3/996 Radiator Kit (available as a kit from Carnewal.com) consisting of: 1 ea 996 106 037 51 Radiator 1 ea 996 106 666 52 Radiator Hose (right side return line) 1 ea 996 106 665 55 Radiator Hose (left side intake line) 1 ea 996 575 141 02 Air Duct (center) (for MY02 and newer 996 575 141 04) 1 ea 996 504 485 02 Retaining Frame (bottom) 1 ea 996 504 487 02 Retaining Frame (top) 4 ea 930 113 430 00 Rubber Grommets (for retaining frame) 2 ea 999 507 550 02 Speed Nut M6 (for retaining frame) 2 ea 900 378 036 09 Bolts M6 (for retaining frame) 2 ea 999 512 552 00 Screw Type Hose Clamps (now included in kit) 4 ea 999 591 869 02 Speed Nut M8 (for mounting bracket on the car) 4 ea 900 378 074 09 Bolts w/washers M8 (final mounting bolts for the assembly) Other items you will need: 4 ea 999 512 551 00 Screw Type Hose Clamps (large, do not reuse the spring clamps) 2 liters 000 043 203 78 Porsche HMZ Coolant Tools you will need Jack Jack stands 19 mm socket for wheel bolts Key for security wheel bolt Metric sockets - 10 mm, 13 mm Regular screwdriver Phillips screwdriver Torx bit- T25 Torque wrench (97 ft-lb) to tighten wheel bolts Utility Knife Cooling line mounting paths (what it will look like). The parts kit from Carnewal.com. Two views (second one courtesy of Scott Mandell). Pre-assemble the Radiator. Using the numbers in the illustration you can pre-assemble some of the radiator parts using the rubber grommets (4) and the M6 Speed Nuts (6) and M6 Bolts (5). Note the radiator outlet positions and the retaining frame top and bottom (see parts list for p/n). The radiator hose connections face the car and are on the top. The top retaining bracket (2) has tabs with small hooks. The tab hooks point towards the car and the tabs themselves angle away from the car. The bottom bracket (3) has tabs that face the car. When mounted the radiator will NOT be vertical it will be at a slight angle up. Raise the car and remove the wheels. Start by jacking the car up and placing jack stands under the front wheel jack mounts. This really puts the car at a more comfortable height to work on. Next remove the front wheels. Remove the side markers. Move the wheel well liners back. Remove from the wheel well the 3 plastic rivets and the 10 mm nut. Pull the wheel well liner back as shown (I used twine). Remove the front bumper cover. There are two screws on each side at the side marker area. One is at the forward part where the side marker assembly attaches, the other is behind the side marker. Remove the screws and rivets under the nose (2 rivets and 7-9 screws). Remove the plastic cover over the front trunk latch. This is held in place by four plastic fasteners. You just rotate these 90 degrees to remove them. Carefully pull the cover off over the latch handle. Finally remove the 2 screws (now visible). Detach the air temperature sensor cable. Lift the bumper cover off and place on a padded surface to avoid scratches. Remove the air scoops. There are 5 torx screws on the scoops to remove them. On the right side you will need to feed the rubber grommet (for the temperature sensor) through the scoop to remove it. Clean the radiators. Detach the air conditioning condensers (2 torx screws) and use a soft brush and vacuum to clean the radiators and air conditioner condensers well. Loosen the radiator assembly on each side. Remove the two bolts (13 mm) under the support bracket. Then remove the (13 mm) nut that holds the bracket (inside the wheel well). This will now allow the whole assembly to move about 6 inches down and to the side allowing enough room to change the hoses. Replace the lower hose on right (passenger side) side. Using pliers slide the hose spring clamps back on the hose but don't remove the hose yet. Place a clean container (about 2 quarts should be enough) to catch the coolant when you carefully remove the hose at the radiator end first. Coolant. This about the quantity of coolant you should expect when you remove the lower hose. I would guess slightly more than one radiator capacity. Right side (passenger side) Hoses. Old hose on left new hose on right. Place the clamps on the hoses and re-attach. Before tightening down the hose clamps rotate the hose so that the small hose is correctly positioned at to the top center of the car (for the new radiator). Replace the upper hose on left (drivers side) side. Place the clamps on the hoses and re-attach. Before tightening down the hose clamps rotate the hose so that the small hose is correctly positioned at to the top center of the car (for the new radiator). This one is a little trickier but you should see the hose path as it sits up and under the fender. Left side (drivers side) Hoses. Old hose on left new hose on right. Attach the center radiator to the car. Using the M8 speed nuts place them on the brackets on the car and attach the radiator (assembly) loosely using just the top 2 bolts. Attach the small hose to the center radiator. To easily attach the left hose remove the bolt from the left side mounting (now only supported on the right) and attach the hose and tighten the clamp. Do the reverse on the other side (place bolt back in left side and remove right bolt). Finally tighten down all 4 M8 bolts to hold the radiator firmly in place. Re-attach the radiators. Carefully re-position the radiators and replace the 2 bolts and nut that holds the assembly in place. Take care to line it up as it was previously. Reattach air conditioner condensers and tighten the 2 torx screws that hold them in place. Test for leaks. Start the engine and run for at least 5 minutes while checking for leaks. If everything is tight and leak free proceed with the rest of the re-assembly. Attach center air duct. Carefully position the air duct such that the 6 protrusions snap into the places on the radiator frame. Reattach the side air scoops (5 each torx screws). Remove the center plug in the bumper cover. This may sound easier than it is. Seems Porsche uses a black silicone type sealant on this. I found the best way was to use (carefully) a utility knife to cut away as much of the sealant as possible and then carefully pull until I got a corner up and worked my way around the edges. Note: For standard (non-aerokit) front bumpers; cut the inside gasket along the line. Remove the center plug as shown in these images (courtesy of Scott Mandell) Or, you could replace the rubber bumper insert with: 996 505 553 05 01C Air Inlet for Tiptronic (or for MY02 and newer 996 505 561 02 01C). This replaces the original insert and installs across width of stock 996 bumper. Re-attach the bumper cover. Basically, the reverse of removal. Re-attach wheel well covers. Ditto, basically the reverse of removal. Re-attach the side marker lights, wheels, lower car. Again, the reverse of removal. Add coolant, check for leaks (again), and bleed system... Add a mixture of antifreeze and water using the HMZ coolant. Antifreeze in coolant: 50% gives protection down to -31°F (-35°C) 60% gives protection down to -58°F (-50°C). Be careful not to overfill (it will get pushed out on the floor). Lift the bleed valve. Start the engine and allow it to get to full operating temperature (I also ran the air conditioning to force circulation). The coolant warning light will likely start to flash. Shut the engine off and WAIT until the engine and coolant has cooled enough to remove the coolant tank cap. Then add coolant to the tank and repeat the process. You made need to do this 2-3 times. When the coolant level fails to fall then the system is bled and you can close the bleeder valve. Enjoy your "cool" car. Just to be safe it might make sense to check the coolant level a couple of times in the next one or two days. I found under heavy (track) driving in hot weather my coolant temps run 10 to 20°F (7 to 12°C) cooler now.