Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to subscribe or donate. All subscriptions and donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual subscription or donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you subscribe RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's quality Porsche information at a low cost.

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by subscribing or donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Loren

Admin
  • Posts

    37,822
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    632

Everything posted by Loren

  1. Hmm... Peter Smith told me 4 hours... if you are slow.
  2. I didn't say you took it - I said "that site" had a TSB that came from here. Unless that is your site you did nothing wrong.
  3. Lift the cap (item 16) on that one wiper blade and check and see if the nut has come loose. If not that then... Check the tightness of the wiper link screws - I've heard of these coming loose before too.
  4. I don't have a CDR-21 manual but his is what the CDR-210 manual says:
  5. Porsche 911 GT3 RS To Make North American Debut 911 GT3 RS most track-focused, road-legal 911 to appear on North American shores since the legendary '73 Carrera RS May 30, 2006 — North America is set to receive its first production version of the Porsche 911 GT3 RS. Beyond its unique livery, the GT3 RS is distinguished from the GT3 on which it’s based by broader rear flanks and reduced weight, further distilling the driving experience to that of a racing car, but one which meets all the requirements for street-legal sports cars. This purist’s variant of the 911 GT3—a model particularly well-suited for track outings—will arrive in time for spring 2007. Not since the venerable 1973 911 Carrera RS has such a production Porsche been available in this market. The Carrera RS was a special, lightweight 911 produced to homologate the vehicle for racing. That tradition continues with the new 911 GT3 RS, which is modified to serve as the homologation model for a range of worldwide racing series. The RS’s immediate predecessors have garnered more than 50 victories and five championships in the American Le Mans Series, as well as overall victory at the Rolex 24 at Daytona. The modifications made to the 911 GT3 RS begin with the bodywork. Compared to the GT3, the rear of the RS is 44mm wider, as it is based on the fuller-bodied 911 Carrera 4 models. The muscular-looking rear end conceals a wider track that not only improves directional stability, but also increases the potential for lateral grip on this two-seat coupe. Despite its specialized body, the GT3 RS is lighter than the GT3. This weight-saving was achieved through the use of—among other solutions—a carbon fiber composite for the front lid, and an adjustable carbon fiber wing. Modifications on the GT3 RS geared specifically toward race-regulations include the rear wheel carrier, split rear-suspension wishbones, and the carbon-fiber components. The quick-revving nature and peak output of the 911 GT3’s 3.6-liter flat-Six remains the same, with the highly-tuned Boxer mill generating 415 horsepower at 7,600 rpm, on the way to an 8,400 rpm redline. The new 911 GT3 RS will be available in two standard finishes: Black or Arctic Silver metallic. As an option, the GT3 can also be decked out in brilliant orange or green paintwork. All vehicle insignia and the wheels themselves are styled in orange or black to contrast with the body color. The 911 GT3 RS’s interior lives up to the vehicle's race-derived styling. Internal trim is black, with the roof lining, steering wheel and gear stick trimmed in high-quality Alcantara leather. The 2007 Porsche 911 GT3 RS will reach the North American market in the spring of 2007, at a price to be announced. Porsche Cars North America, Inc. (PCNA), based in Atlanta, GA, and its subsidiary, Porsche Cars Canada, Ltd., are the exclusive importers of Porsche sports cars and Cayenne® sport utility vehicles for the United States and Canada. A wholly owned, indirect subsidiary of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG, PCNA employs approximately 300 people who provide Porsche vehicles, parts, service, marketing and training for its 213 U.S. and Canadian dealers. They, in turn, provide Porsche owners with best-in-class service. ### For more information, contact: Bob Carlson (770) 290-3676 or Paul Seredynski (770) 290-3514
  6. For a RoW MY00 Boxster: 996.645.011.01 Left loudspeaker/mount (US MSRP is about $90) 996.645.012.01 Right loudspeaker/mount 999.920.061.02 Self tapping screw (8 required) 999.591.499.02 Speed nut for above screws (8 required) This does not include the speaker grills or grill mounting hardware..
  7. Fault code(s)? Have they looked at the ICV (Idle Control Valve) solenoid? Only MY98 and 99 C2's have an ICV.
  8. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6194 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=2012
  9. If you want part numbers you might give us the model year and color of the door panels in your car. last time I looked these up they were very pricey at $800 to $900 each. I do not know where you are located but there is a company near Sacramento, CA that will convert your door panels for much less.
  10. It is likely the sub-assembly number not the (orderable) part number.
  11. Radio model? CDR220 or CDR210 or CR210 or ?
  12. Preliminary 2007 Cayman Order Guide has been added here
  13. As the TT Service manual shows... logo placement is the same "centered" layout as the Carrera 4S. 1. Find the middle of the lid. 2. Position logo Carrera with the dimensions A = 185 mm and B = 31 mm on the rear lid and affix. 3. Position logo S with the dimensions C = 185 mm and B = 29 mm on the rear lid and affix. 4. Insert logo 4 in the external cut opening arrow of the logo S. Removal is usually dental floss and a heat gun (or warm sun). Clean surface with some 3M adhesive remover and then atach the new logo.
  14. A full fault code test of all control modules using a PST2 takes anywhere from 2 minutes to 5 minutes depending on the options in the car. Other more specific and detailed tests can also be performed and they all vary in length. Most US dealers have (been forced to) upgrade to the PIWIS tester which is just slightly faster. Some dealerships and independent shops still use the PST2. The PST2 works on all Porsche's up to and including MY04.
  15. Here is what the OBD II manual says for fault P0740: P0740 - Torque converter clutch, excessive power consumption. Possible fault cause - Torque converter clutch not functioning
  16. The Durametric software can certainly read and reset the codes. You (or someone) will still need to interpret the faults and fix the problems.
  17. You should not need to remove anything. See the foil like heat shields on Orient Express's car... make sure those are not touching the muffler or so close that they will touch when hot.
  18. What year car? How many miles? Could be an oil protection pipe leak. You won't know until you take the spark plug heat shields off and find the origin of the leak.
  19. 1. Water collection tray 2. Sealing channel on rear side section 3. Tank tray 4. Evaporator of heating and air-conditioning system 5. Radiator tank
  20. Without the fault codes you are shooting in the dark. Here in the US some parts stores will read your codes for free (Autozone). Based on the year of your car - your airbag light is likely a bad seat belt connector and needs the TSB update done to the seat belts and grounds. Both of these problems are easily fixed by a shop or dealer with the right tools.
  21. I think that is a GT3 mk2 bumper. Check the headlight cutouts to see if they are the same shape as yours or the newer (bi-xenon) cutouts.
  22. There is a heat shield and their are clamps. If the heat shield is not touching the muffler and the clamps/mounts are tight - then you likely have a broken weld inside the muffler.
  23. Unless you lower your car the front end will start to feel floaty above 120-130 MPH. This is true regardless of the rear spoiler settings and is even worse with the stock spoiler. IMHO I see a little added downforce on the rear at track speeds that I think helps in some of the higher speed turns. Granted most of my track experience with it is at Laguna Seca which is not a very high speed track.
  24. If you want to raise the wing all the way up then make sure you have a GT3 (cup aerokit) front bumper and the lower lip. If you lower the car do both front and rear. If you go to RoW M030 or coilovers to lower the car then you will need a supply of the lower front spoiler lip - since you will knock it off or scrape it in normal street driving. I run mine in the middle postion without any additional lowering. Lowering will definitely improve front end lift/floatyness above 120 MPH.
  25. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...=findpost&p=379
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.