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Loren

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Everything posted by Loren

  1. Hey, thanks to all... but remember that it's all of you that make this forum successful. I just lit the fire :cheers:
  2. Thanks! Spring spacers or wheel spacers? If I may, there is a greart article on Porsche tuned suspension in PCA Panorama. IMHO I think it is kind of a required reading before making any major decisions on suspension changes. You can find the article at: 996 Standard and Sport Suspensions Analyzed
  3. As long as it is DOT 4 (not DOT 3 or synthetic DOT 5) it should be okay. Porsche does not recommend synthetic brake fluids (I do not know why). I change back and forth with ATE Gold (Type200) and ATE Super Blue. This is great for street and pretty good for light track useage. Both have a high dry boiling point (536 degrees) and a high wet boiling point (392 degrees), but without being excessively hygroscopic (these fluids do not readily absorb moisture like most high performance fluids). They are the same fluid with the same properties one is yellowish gold and the other is blue. This all
  4. Is your car a Targa? I see an extra piece for the Targa (911 511 127 00) but not listed for coupe. I don't remember this on my 76 911S coupe...
  5. Factory spacers should be balanced. They are screwed onto the hub so they become part of it and should maintain the balance. If you are using aftermarket spacers I would be tempted to have the wheel balanced on the car (good shops can still do this when needed). That way the wheel weight would offset any balance issues. All JMHO... as I've never seen one out of balance. ;)
  6. Mike, The Porsche 5 mm spacer kit uses 5 mm longer wheel bolts (911 GT3, P/N: 996 361 203 90). These GT3 wheel bolts are marked with GT or with a red color on the head surface of the bolt head, or the rotating spherical cap is galvanized in red. The distance from the bolt head flange (not the rounded washer) to the bolt tip is approx. 50 mm. The standard wheel bolts, P/N: 996 361 203 00 are approx. 45 mm. I'm sure you can order them separately. 5 mm spacer kit
  7. If you click on either donate button, then when the PayPal page comes up click on the "If you have never paid through PayPal, Click Here" button and it will allow you to use VISA or MasterCard. THANKS! :cheers:
  8. If you put the car in neutral and press the clutch in and out, do you still hear it? If so, it is likely the clutch throw out bearing.
  9. Fuel pressure line? or vacuum line? I emailed you some info on the fuel pressure lines.
  10. Thanks for the site comments... :D IMHO... It's not about bleeding it about changing the brake fluid. High temps can cause brake fluid to break down and absorb moisture. When the moisture in the fluid gets hot it vaporizes and become a gas... not good for braking performance. Depending on the number of hot laps at a DE I would suggest every 2-4 events and DE's are the toughest on brakes. Brake fluid is cheap (about $12 liter) and changing it is only about an hour once you get the hang of it. A lot of folks go back and forth with the ATE Gold and ATE Super Blue that way they can easily te
  11. Whoohoo! Looks great Don! :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: The crests and silver on the backs of the seats is a super look too!
  12. I agree with Jeff that if the system has not been drained then you don't need to do anything special for PSM or Traction Control. You may want to bleed the clutch though. It is not very hard and you can find details at this link: Brake/Clutch Fluid Change and Bleeding Instructions
  13. Courtesy of Nasa Racer Pete (used with his permission) - posted by Loren Well, there I was...backing into a parking space against a curb and I was in a hurry and I heard it...SCRAPE! One fraction of a second...barely moving. Got out and looked at the rim...OOOOOOWWWWW! Well, no need to fear...I've done this enough times to have a easy way to do home repairs with a few simple items. Note that this ONLY covers light scuffs, this isn't meant to be used to repair a DAMAGED wheel or one where the scuffs cause significant damage to the rim. This is only for those annoying superficial scuff
  14. Home Curb-Rash Repair Courtesy of Nasa Racer Pete (used with his permission) - posted by Loren Well, there I was...backing into a parking space against a curb and I was in a hurry and I heard it...SCRAPE! One fraction of a second...barely moving. Got out and looked at the rim...OOOOOOWWWWW! Well, no need to fear...I've done this enough times to have a easy way to do home repairs with a few simple items. Note that this ONLY covers light scuffs, this isn't meant to be used to repair a DAMAGED wheel or one where the scuffs cause significant damage to the rim. This is only for
  15. Cool! Thanks Don :clapping: I can build all of my former Porsches there.
  16. Duane, Well the board just opened publicly last weekend so it's not quite a week old. We have a few TT members but not a lot yet. Feel free to tell your TT friends. We are also looking for a good moderator for this forum preferably someone with a lot of TT experience. Here is my 2 cents on turbo cool down time... When you drive hard on the track or just a spirited drive through the mountain passes it is always best to bring the car back to "normal" operating temps. This goes for engine oil, coolant, brakes and of course turbos. The last thing you want to do to your car is park it, shut i
  17. Sure! 914's, 914-6's, 356's, etc., etc., etc. All Porsches are welcome here. If the interest is high enough then we'll give you your forum. Some of us actually owned (and mod'ed) a 914 :D
  18. Thanks to Sandy for this great DIY... (I've done this on my car and it is not very hard to do. The instructions are very detailed.) Sidemaker_mod.pdf
  19. I haven't seen one that looked like it would hit anything. I wonder if it wasn't seated all the way down on the cable connector?
  20. They are the older GT3 swaybars... but I don't have part numbers for the new ones yet so they could be they same. My misunderstanding, I read "coilovers" in the last line and assumed H&R coilovers... my bad. You are correct on the PSS-9 starting at RoW Standard height. So you will likely go at least to RoW M030 height (20 mm front and 10 mm rear). Yeah, no hurry on the radiator... i was just teasing :jump:
  21. Thanks Mike! The RoW M030 swaybars are: Front: 23.6 mm Rear: 19.6 mm The GT3 (old GT3 not MY04) Front: 26.7 mm Rear: 20.8 mm Just remember that the coilovers lower the car (from stock) about 1 inch. That is the at the highest setting. So if that is okay for your driving then there is no other problem I am aware of. You can always go down from there but not up (higher). p.s. Ready for that 3rd radiator yet? :unsure:
  22. Teaching 1. With the ignition switched on, press the "lift" button and move the lifting/sliding roof drive to the "raised" limit position. 2. Press "lift" button again and keep depressed. After around 10 seconds, a complete cycle takes place from the "raised" limit position to the positions "lower - open - close". 3. Teaching of the characteristics has been completed after this process. Note: The "raise" button must not be released during the entire process. In the event of a restart, the lifting/sliding roof must always be moved to the raised limit position first. 4. If the liftin
  23. Porsche has redesigned the oil seal, the installation tools and re-trained the dealers on proper replacement of the RMS. According to a recent TSB (Technical Support Bulletin) Porsche dealers are now supposed to perform a test prior to replacing the oil seal. The test involves checking the mating surface for the seal. If the fit of the special tool is not tight enough... you get a new engine.
  24. Thanks Darren! Feel free tell others about the site. They don't need to be technical to post here... this site is for both questions and answers :D
  25. When a fixed factory (Porsche) spoiler is added there is a change to the wiring harness to disable that warning. You need to purchase and install (5 min max) the following new harness: 996 612 070 51 Wiring Harness. Technical Details: Check whether there is a jumper connecting pin 2 (which is already jumped from pin 1) to pin 5 on plug X23 of the new wiring harness (connection to the vehicle). If this is the case, the spoiler extended signal will be constantly present at the control module and the warning light of the retractable rear spoiler will not light. (at speeds above 74mph).
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