Loren

955 044 900 12 is for Cayenne's with the Bose sound system and 04 is for Cayenne's without it.

955 551 773 04 is called Luggage Boot Cover and looks like it mounts lower than the luggage cover. 955 551 691 01 is called Luggage Cover and looks like it mounts higher in the compartment. Looks similar to the rollout screens that Jeep uses. Add 9ET to the part number for Black Luggage Boot Cover. Use 6S4 for a Stone Grey Luggage Boot Cover. The Black Luggage Cover is only available in Black (add 3W4).

999 170 207 91 Spark Plug 14FGR 6KQU All new spark plugs are 4 prong. Porsche still states for MY00 and older 30,000 mile intervals while MY01 and newer can go 60,000 miles. Don't ask me why... they both use the same plug now.

P1531 is an open connection on the camshaft sensor connection. Likely causes (according to the manual) are a loose or broken sensor wire, no power to sensor, or faulty DME relay. Porsche did have some problems with the Hall sensors on early cars so I wouldn't rule that out.

:welcome: Yes, see my DIY pages. Manuals - It depends on how much you plan to do yourself. I bought my set of 16 volumes in 2000 for $487. Those same manuals cost almost 3X that today. If you do invest in the manuals make sure you get all the latest updates (Porsche calls them "supplements"). With a new order they should give you all current supplements (about 85 to date as I recall). When supplements come out they run $9-$12 each. A good alternative is AllDataDIY.com and they have much of the common information for a subscription price of $24.95 and $14.95 to renew or add cars. For my 2 cents, yes. Here is why... Porsche has seen a some RMS (rear mail seal) problems on these cars and in many cases where the car has not shown signs of abuse they have replaced 5 year old engines (read "out of warranty") for free. One sure way to assure that happens (if you need it) is to use Porsche parts. Check out the Porsche Parts at Dealer cost at the top of the page. Porsche (again) has a list of approved oils. They are listed in a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin). Porsche TSB's can be viewed online by Contributing Members - so you might want to consider that. Porsche factory fill at this time is Mobil 1 0W-40 (synthethic). Read throught some of the posts here and in the DIY section. You will not get much HP gain with a BMC or K&N or sport exhaust. But if you add headers and re-chip/tune the engine - some folks can see 30 plus hp increases. Watch your smog laws before doing this or get a chip that can be switched. You can view a listing of Porsche TSBs here for each model. Some are VIN specfic and some are general and some are accessory installation instructions. Contributing Members can view the actual TSB content online. K-20 is a 17 inch wheel most 996 wheel upgrades are 18 inch. Unless those wheels have very unusal offsets the rears will not fit on a narrrow body car (996). Sounds liike they came off a wide-body car (TT, C4S, or GT2). In genereal folks that autocross tend to liket the 17's and folks that do DE's tend to like the 18's. Bottom line for theose wheels is the fronts may fit but hte rears definitely won't. Those are good books to have although I'm not sure Bruce has updated his book with much info on the M96 engine. Check in with your local PCA (Porsche Club of America) as we have several great folks around the area for tech sessions. Besides Bruce Anderson, there are the guys at The Racers Group, RennWorks, and many more. Well... I cringe when someone says Porsch instead of Porsche but there are certainly a bunch of folks that say it wrong. You will endear yourself to other Porsche owners (and likely be taken more seriously) by saying POR-S-CHA correctly (just IMHO). The current model of 911 (996) drives much differently than earlier ones I grew up with. Today's 911 has lots of understeer to keep you out trouble. Certain wheel/tire/air pressure/alignment combinations can neutralize a great deal of this and make the car quite neutral handling. I would suggest attending auocrosses and driving events and talking to folks about there cars setup and then apply it to your needs and drving style. Once again... :welcome:

I sent you an email with the TSB and a parts list...

For your MY car Porsche says to change at 90,000 miles. The additional maintenance checklist is here. If your car is driven hard or has track time I personally would change it yearly. MP gear oil is cheap and it's good to see if have any abnormal wear particles in the drained oil. The manual transmission oil change procedure is pretty easy and is in a DIY here

P304 - Misfire, Cylinder 3, Damaging to Catalytic Converter P306 - Misfire, Cylinder 6, Damaging to Catalytic Converter P150 - Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Intercore Short Circuit or Limited Voltage Increase P1126 - Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Rich Threshold (IMHO) I think you need to quit driving this car until you find the problem. Chances are you could have burnt another O2 sensor. Have you looked for intake leaks like the oil filler hose (cracked?). TSB 9/00 1715 specificaly states:

Another option is WheelEnhancement.com. They can repair your wheel or offer you an exchange wheel or new wheel.

Should be a Black/Blue wire under the drivers seat.

No, 70C is the color. The parts list shows country and model, etc. if needed.

In most cases the O2 sensor is not the problem - it is the device reporting the problem. P1128 and P1130 say that the fuel mixture is so lean that the DME can not increase the richness enough to compensate. This is usually caused by an intake (or exhaust) system leak, a blocked fuel filter, or low fuel pump pressure. Since (both sets of 3) cylinder banks report the same issue it is unlikely a fouled injector.

996 641 115 03 70C is a Canadian Instrument Cluster (complete) for MY99-01 C4 (4WD) 6 speed in Rally Black color.

You have more mail...

Near the bottom of the page are DIY's for GT3, TT and GT2. The Oil Change for Turbos is here

You've got mail...

No. Turning on the OBC will not generate an error/fault code. Mine is on right now (and has been for 3 years). I also have not done the OBC hack - I just get the outside temp. I have a scanner and my car shows no fault codes. But your dealer should check for any fault codes BEFORE they turn it on - that's just plain "good practice".

No, the dealer must do this with a PST2/3. The idea behind the airbag control is that when the child seat is present it shuts off the airbag - and when you remove the child seat it turns it back on. Sounds like a safe solution to me...

Not as long as you keep the cats and oxygen sensors.

Have a look at this thread to see how to mod the switching... If you don't have the full (factory) install instructions -- PM me and I will email them to you.

The studs (M 8 x 22) that come out of the turbos are: 900 081 059 00 The gasket is: 996 111 217 70 The nuts (for the studs) are: 999 084 052 02 and the washers are: 900 031 032 02

The gray item in the center of your picture is the solenoid. If you follow the black vacuum lines one should go to the check valve.

One of our members, CoreyNJ, has written an excellent DIY for the PCM 2. This is for the MOST equipped cars only. We have posted in the DIY section.You can read/print the PCM 2 DIY here.THANKS Corey!! :clapping:

On Scouser's car there was a TSB for seat belt contacts making poor connection. That problem was (supposedly) fixed on production cars in Sept. 1999. AND, that fault caused the airbag to go on all the time -- not off. There is a ground under the drivers seat but you must remove the drivers seat to get to it. To remove the drivers seat you need an E12 (external Torx) socket and to be safe you should disconnect the battery so you don't trigger an airbag accidently. Or, since your car is still likely under warranty you could let the dealer trace this down.

I sent you an email with the TSB. It has all the details.