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Loren

Admin
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Everything posted by Loren

  1. Pretty much. About a 5 minute job, removing and replacing the switches is the most difficult part. Tom Morris wrote really good DIY on this... but his site seems to be down right now. Here are part numbers you will need: 996 552 096 01 D05 Console Shelf (about $41)* 996 552 596 00 Rubber Pad for Tray (about $5) * Note that the D05 designates Granite Grey interior so your color code may be different.
  2. Pop out 2-4 of the cd holder trays and then grab them and pull. The new storage bin just snaps in also. About a 30 second job :D
  3. Welcome I hope you enjoy the site! Don't forget to add your car and mods to the RennTech.org -- Garage :cheers:
  4. The Boxster method is here. In theory you can do what I suggested to racer08 on Rennlist. That would be to run the SDV control to radio to override the DSP control. If all else fails you can always remove the DSP -- most folks think it adds very little anyway.
  5. Pulling the headlight switch out one notch turns on the front fog lights and pulling it out two notches also turns on the single rear foglight.
  6. Here is the Porsche part number for the CDC-4 Kit for MY03 and newer (MOST bus) Carrera and Boxster: 000 044 900 72 As Jeff said, once its installed your dealer will have to activate it with his PST2.
  7. These instructions are now available as a TSB. Let me know if you want a copy.
  8. About an hour the first time...
  9. You do not need to take the rear bumper off. It may be easier to get the mufflers out with the rear tires off though. See my complete write-up here
  10. Try contacting Wheel Enhancement they sell these all the time. Wheel Enhancement 10129 W. Jefferson Blvd. Culver City, CA 90232 (310) 836-8908 wheelenhancement@msn.com http://www.wheelenhancement.com
  11. Rob, I'll send you what I have... Hopefully, Gert will repsond about availability and legality. I don't think Porsche ever got an engine with this kit on it tested in the US.
  12. (edit: I split this topic off so it would be easier to find)
  13. There are no TSBs on cracked or leaking washer fluid tanks. But I have heard of several folks that have had the problem. There are two tanks. One for cars with headlight washers (996 528 701 00) and one for cars without (996 528 701 01).
  14. I think you talking about the rectangular baffle in the air cleaner housing? If so, I have some bad news for you... Porsche does not sell that part by itself. You must buy the whole air cleaner housing 996 110 921 50. Sorry :blink:
  15. Doug, My documents don't have a build date or VIN number but from what I can tell it was changed in either late 1998 builds or early 1999 builds. My car is a June 99 build and it has changes. I'll send you an email with all the 3.6 X51 kit parts. There was also an X51 kit for the 3.4 liter that was not sold in the US. I think I have instructions but may not part numbers for that kit.
  16. The later 3.4 liter cars are better than the early ones as they changed the internal baffles. The 3.6 liter cars got additional oil pump capacity and as well the baffles. The 3.6 Powerkit upgrade took this even a little further with a second oil pickup point and a new baffle system. But, Porsche still recommends that if you use racing tires you should by the Porsche MotorSports Kit and install it. (Some engine disassembly is required).
  17. Yes, No (...well kind of), depends/Yes. Buy one and Jeff and I will put it in. (ps. I deleted your second post on the same subject)
  18. If you have a MY99 car then there was only one finish It was called Granite Grey You will need two parts: 996 552 096 01 D05 Shelf (this is the tray - D05 specifies the color) 996 552 596 00 Console Insert (rubber pad)
  19. Not that I am aware of. Have you tried asking for your PCA discount? My-Porsche has been slow for me also... they tell me that the supplements showup in their computer system but they are not allowed to order. I ordered these in July... I haven't had any wrong shipments so far. I use them because they are on the way to Laguna Seca so no shipping/handling cost etc.
  20. Just picked up supplements 73 to 77 (about 6 inches thick). Looks like I've got couple days work ahead of me... :eek:
  21. :oops: I re-read my post.... I guess I was too tired... Solid spoke wheels have the ribs in back. I'll correct it and look for the 11" part numbers. Sorry, for the confusion.
  22. The sounds are so mixed it is hard to tell if something is loose and rubbing or if you have a serious air leak in the crankcase, exhaust, or intake... best let a mechanic hear it in person. I personally would not drive or run the car any more until it is solved... (JMHO)
  23. All solid spoke wheels have ribs on the back of the spokes. That is, if you feel behind each wheel spoke there are ribbed re-enforcements. Hollow spoke wheels have no ribs they are smooth and they also have metal (air) valves since the wheel is hollow. You should stay away from any chromed hollow spoke wheels as it weakens them and the process can damage the wheels... even one year later. I've seen one of these and the guy is lucky to be alive. Since you have a C4S, you are looking for 11" rears? Not the 993TT 10" rears right?
  24. There are two ways to get an image on the site. 1. If the image is 60K or under (my imposed limit) you can simply use the attach command at the bottom of your new post (before you hit "Post New Topic") button. or 2. You can link to any size image offsite by click ing on the "IMG" button (when posting) and entering in a full URL to the image i.e. http://www.garlic.com/~ljcook/images/996.jpg would produce If you are still having problems let me know and I'll help out.
  25. IMHO, a good machine shop can do it. If you know and trust a machine shop and want to make sure they don't accidentally make a mistake then I would make a copy of the the manual pages and give it to them as a "reference". A good shop would make sure they are doing it right.
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