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lewisweller

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Everything posted by lewisweller

  1. Check the cardan shaft Centre bearing first and the flex disc, then start looking at other possibilities like the transfer case. The warning normally relates to a electronic fault inside the stepper motor and or the control module in earlier models, as opposed to a mechanical issue with the TC itself.
  2. Was a bit of a rush job, can you give me some more details of how many connectors you found and cleaned. I removed two metal dog leg shaped flat plates and the screws and the earth cable connected to each. Appreciated. Thank
  3. Car finished and according to the guys everything is OK. I haven't had time to go check. It's being collected tomorrow am and going for washing, polishing inside and out and ready for pickup Wednesday if I can get time to get there. It will be straight online for sale, I just wish I could fix the tail light warning crap! Also rear camera stuck still will have to pull that open and free it up some. And take the injectors out friday and do the professional cleaning on Saturday. Then it's bye bye
  4. No part numbers. The NBR hydraulic seal size 8mm x 38mm and the NBR oring I dont remember the diameter but 2.6-3mm was the thickness I think. For sure if you whip them out you can find a match at a nearby hydraulic/mechanical seal type shop. Top tip don't go for a thicker 3-4mm oring by thinking it will be better, the end seal plug won't fit back inside properly and the circlip won't sit in the groove either. When you start the engine and move the steering the end seal plug will push out and ***** fluid out everywhere. Ask me how I know?
  5. All good advice but not spending a dollar more than I have to. It took the guys about 3 days to drop and split. I dropped off the TC seal and crank shaft seal just last night and went back today 8pm and the engine is in and running. They will fill up the fluids I dropped off, atf, power steering and coolant. Also top strut mounts and wishbone top arm.
  6. This picture might help. I have 4 zone AC so two pipe at least go to rear heat exchanger.
  7. Yep brass outer seal ring is for BUSH version like I have and you have. Ending 300. The other needle shaft version type seal ending 302 is NOT a revision old or new I did ask the Porsche part guy to clarify, they are simply different parts for different types fitted component. I reckon the 302 was fitted in the later module production line when they realised the 300 was going to leak in the future maybe? Some more pictures attached, this is the 302 seal and also some rather depressing images of my cars guts laying on the floor again.
  8. I'm using Ross tech vcds also on my 06 ctt. I had No need to jump pins though as it read most common modules already on mine. I think as Mike zawowsky will testify the older cayenne was not so vagcom friendly. The main problem is no label files to describe what data your viewing.
  9. My personal choice if size would permit, take a low mileage (with extended 5 yrs warranty and 60,000mile service package) 12-24month old Q5 s-line v6 3.0T supercharged. It by far the best price out of the lot and leaves loads of cash to............ Take it to your local Revo dealer and have the supercharger pulley upgrade and Ecu flash. Huge torque gains and bhp, makes the engine a real train and lovely drive ability in any gear any speed it will pull hard smooth and clean. I maybe a little bias because it the same as my S4 modification and also if you like the supercharger whine then get a cold air intake too and for more sound and power do the X pipe exhaust mod. ***** rings round the others except maybe the X5M and X6M, the are beastly but cost the earth. If I buy another relatively expensive car it will be the Q5.
  10. So it turns out Porsche are correct (why doubt them I hear some say) of the the two types one is a usual looking NBR seal and one has a brass band integrated around the seal which sits on the transmission case input shaft aperture I think I'm right in saying. Ending part number 302 "needle bearing version" was in fact the other type Mr. Haney, the one that fits my car is as attached and ends in 300 and is the "bush version" The garage confirmed the damage to the seal wasnt due to them prying it out! So something happened in there to rip a chunk out and mess up the seal proper style.
  11. Thanks for replying, It seems from your detailed information there should be no discrepancy over the seal, so I'm wondering why Porsche have two types they say could be fitted? Could it be one of those factory line moments where mid production they switch the seal on the fly (for what ever reason supplier change, defective seal design revised or associated component changes) and its anybodies guess which one is fitted. Will find out later hopefully and compare both they say they have. Chunk missing, makes more sense they damaged it prying out yes. I'm going to remove the injectors when I go to get the seal today and send them to the other garage for ultrasonic cleaning. The new owner is not going to know the 14month battle and cost it's taken to get this car back to decent shape mechanically. Oh and I still can't fix this pesky check tail light warning. I looked at the third break light and the grounds under that rear hatch spoiler. Nothing found, Cleaned earth's and check plugs were all clicked tight. Where else can be the problem other than the rear comfort control unit? It's really annoying. When the lights are on, Press the break pedal and boom "check tail lights" pops up. It's voltage related I'm sure, when everything is off loads wise, and I've been on a drive (battery is fully topped up) it won't do it. Drop to idle and switch on a few things it will pop everytime. I can even make it do it between fan speed 3 or 4 make the difference to pop the warning or not pop.
  12. The engine with transmission is out and split. Here is the seal with a very obvious chunk out of it, hence the rather large leak. They say there is a difference in the seal type dependant on the shaft, I have to say I don't know what to compare it to, so will take the old one to Porsche tomorrow and get the right one.
  13. Erm I spent ages trying to get a decent testing kit and never actually got one or the right parts to make one. Larger than standard Schrader valve is the pita. Both pumps same result leaves a common fault which could be regulator of filter blockage. Could it be bad fuel? Go get it test somewhere don't buy parts on a whim. I wasted a lot of money like this chasing lean bad running. Turns out it is blocked injectors and nothing to do with pumps regulator or filter. I justify the cost against reliability and periodic servicing. Who am I kidding could have save the money for all the other break downs of this wonderful motor.
  14. Didn't sell because the traders here buying from the auction are retards. They went all crazy bidding for a 2010 suburban truck with 678,000km on it and loads of bad stuff noted on the test sheet but anything older than 2009 they are not interested in at all. And face-lift or e81 power kit options are like trying to explain algebra to a young chimp. Yeah I like the face-lift look, tbh the older cayenne are not the prettiest Porsche car ever designed by their crack team of boffins. The wheels are 20" and I believe they are genuine Porsche..... Has the porsche badge in the middle so that was enough proof for me .....hehe
  15. The high pressure fuel pump came in on the 2007/8 model cayenne v8 so the OP Ricurt will be looking at the delivery from the two pumps inside his tank and the filter and regulator function. If you pull out fuse 14 cycle the key off on, will it run? Then try with fuse 13 removed cycle key off on will it run? Any codes?
  16. Sounds fuel related, but learn from my mistakes and others, get it tested before buying parts.
  17. Well I went to the garage this evening after getting a call from the guy who runs it (from Cali USA) there initial quote was how should we say "off the cuff" and now they want to drop the engine, trans and subframe unit and then split. I understand why and so many do it rather than wrestle with it in position. So now what was 1000dhs plus parts from me, is 3000dhs! Weep weep...... The only bonus from this is that I'm getting him to install the remaining new top wishbone arm and strut bushes whilst he's got the lump on the floor. Saves me a job late. Smiles. I'm also thinking to fix the rear turbo vent pipes leaky oily mess, but not wanting to buy them pipes which will be another 1000dhs.
  18. This sounds like the antenna are weak but must still work because otherwise the rear hatch won't open. Due to the low cost I would go ahead and replace the mosfets and melt resistors making sure the sink soldering is spot on. I reckon this will fix all your problems. If not then it may be an issue with the key and something between the rear comfort control module and the kessy is wrong. Check clarksongli DIY link
  19. Does the dummy key work? If not then I suspect the mosfets and or the MELT resistors are blown. Also even if the mosfet sink soldering to the pcb is poorly done or weakened the antennas work badly or not at all.
  20. That's the danger, I might want to keep it. Then the wife will be moaning if it breaks again and we missed the opportunity to sell it, especially as cash is tight.
  21. Great theory and I did try this a few times with the same results! It smoothes out the power and reduces it with little to no boost it feels. But the key is the hesitation doesn't disappear it's only reduced and this is because the boost is much less in this limp type no boost mode with MAP sensor disconnected. This was actually many months ago I experimented with the map sensor. But the conclusion I have is the boost kicking in obviously requires more fuel and that is exactly the point where the lack of fuel delivery from partly blocked injectors with poor spray pattern really show themselves as the stutter hesitation. We will be finding out in a week or two when I get them cleaned. I'm actually alittle bit glad the car didn't sell just so I can close this out in my mind as well as to why the engine hesitates.
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