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lewisweller
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Everything posted by lewisweller
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Thomas found that oil strainer you mentioned, its part number 20 and also is non returning as well, ie oil travels in but can't flow backwards out after it goes inside the actuator. So if the actuator was blocked, stuck or intermittent it would create some weird results. They added this part in 2005 when I guess they started seeing issues with the blocking up of actuators on early models and also they revised the actuator part up to revision 08. So they knew something was wrong with this design! Still not 100 % understanding the system and the attached video and all the ones I have watched relate to the "variocam plus" which uses high lift cam and valve locking pins. But the cayenne and panamera use only various cam (cam phasing) advance and retard of the inlet cam the valve lift height is fixed the inlet cam timing and thus cam overlap is adjustable only. So just to hypothesis as no one is coming up with any factual info just yet, Let say it is either not working or blocked. I've read the system "fails on the low side" meaning it doesn't advance the inlet cam at low rpm as it should. This makes sense if the actuator doesn't work and the normal position is not advanced. So why don't I unplugged both actuators and see if it drives the same then bingo I must be on to something here. Or maybe it's just one side and the other bank is OK. So then I could unplug 1 side only and test and then switch. I also read the actuators can be brought back to life with some shock treatments! Some w12 and pheoton engines responded to this. I expect if the solenoid is working OK when cold it is not a oil blockage and more than likely the coil windings going high resistance and then the valve doesn't actuate fully or gets stuck. Maybe the cold start has the effect of compensating for this but once hot it can't. ?!?? Many questions just begging for a knowledgeable chap to chime in with some facts.....anyone? some interesting info below relating to turbo engines........ "Retarding overall cam timing: Retarding overall cam timing is better for high-RPM power. This is because the valves are closing later. The intake valve is closing AFTER the piston has started to travel back up the bore for the start of compression stroke. This is terrible at low RPM because the intake air velocity is low, and air that was once in the cylinder is now being pushed back into the intake manifold and causing turbulence" http://www.hamotorsports.com/cam-gear-tuning.html
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I just disconnected both the camshaft actuator solenoids and nothing happened. I revved up to 1k then up over 2k exactly the same as usual vibration and bad running just over each. Then I revved full throttle a few time and it hold to the 4k rpm limit as normal and really I can't tell the difference with them disconnected. I didn't drive it though as I'm not sure if that's advisable really. Engine running throughout the following ......... I Measure the voltage 13.91v on one pin to earth and 2.95v on the other pin to earth (it's a negatively switched circuit so ignore that measurement I think) when I measured across them 11volts which is the two voltages deducted which make sense. When I plugged the connector back on bank 1 actuator I could hear tappy ticky rattle metalic valve train noise which tells me something happened. Bank 2 did not make the same noise. So what could this all mean? Bank 1 is working in a fashion and bank 2 isn't? It means nothing because they are not supposed to be active at idle? Loren please help.
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I've been reading a lot about the variocam but what I read is not very helpful in terms of identifying my running issues to variocam faults. A lot of the info is other Porsche engines and not a lot specifically about the cayenne v8 engine. Does anyone have cayenne specific info pls? What I really struggle to understand and find info about is when the variocam exactly switches in to move the inlet camshaft (which is all it does on our engine I belive). Some other Porsche engines move the inlet cam at around 1500 rpm other over 2000rpm. From my understanding the system works like this and please someone correct me as I'm sure it won't be correct....... 1. Idle: the inlet cam is advanced 25 degrees to Give an overlap of exhaust and inlet valves for scavenging and better smoother idle and effiency in terms of fuel economy and NOX Gas reduction? 2. At 1500rpm the inlet cam retards to original position until around 5500rpm giving a flatter wider torque curve? I'm sure that is wrong ..........but cant find proper info to understand better.
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Fitted new crankshaft position sensor was really easy you don't even need to remove any covers just put suspension in highest terrain position and switch off the regulation, then you can slide under and unscrew the 5mm Allen head bolt. Went for drive and it was fine, it even lasted longer than normal good running when already warm, but after doing some hard blasts it started again to stutter ......so disappointed. The only thing I learnt today is the idle Dip is only happening when the AC is on or slightly if I put a lot of loads on with AC off like rear defroster seat heaters and all lights and fogs. Is there any possibility the air gap of the sensor to the flywheel is the issue? Ie the very small gap is actually getting too small when the flywheel expands? Some engine have a spec for the air gap and sometimes this gap is adjusted to fix cps problems.
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Looks like you may have recently disconnected the battery or it went flat? The steering angle will clear when you drive it forward a bit with an angle over 20 degrees. Just go for a drive, then clear faults and recheck. Also confirm the battery is 100% is good condition 12.6v when everything is off doors shut no loads on etc. All the lean codes are for sure a leak Fix It and probably you will have no codes left. There is no G886 Tuning valves in the manifold so this code is not correct, it's more like a throttle body code is there due to the fact the extra air is pushing the throttle body idle control parameters beyond what it can do with the air leak.
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Crankshaft position sensor has arrived today will be installing it in the morning hoping for some positive improvements. New sensor Resistance measured 919ohms between pin 1&2 open circuit on other pin combinations. I will heat test the old sensor and see if its resistance increases when hot.
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Did I miss some post's or was that being disingenuous. Lol If its of any help (probably not) I find when dealing with the dealership, not necessarily Porsche mind, it always more fruitful to approach the service or department highest manager and also drop a few key words in there like "consumer regulatory authority" and "dealership franchise related complainant's department". Even if just a bluff it does tend to get results. That's how I got some tyres replaced outside of warranty after 40,000km which exploded whilst driving. I researched the regulatory authority for the importation of automotive tyred in the UAE and as soon as I drop the name on the tyre importer he immediately offered to replace them foc and he also now gives me tyres at a great price for the Audi.
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The plugs look normal to me for 28,000km.
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With the tank nearly 3/4 full and assuming the left pump is running only as normal I can hear a gentle noise which sounds like air sucking through a pipe or maybe it's just the pump running infact. Can someone pls sit in their car at idle with AC off and tell me if they hear a quiet but definitely sound similar to this as normal? I replaced both gasket rubbers and all connection are correct im sure when both pump replaced and filter and regulator before that. Appreciated
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Thanks for your input. What did you find wrong with the right pump? Did you fit a new one after? After changing the right side after also the left I can hear the right side is noisy, a rumble I hear. May need to get back in the tank and see if something isn't correct. My old pumps were quiet.
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Purge valve unplugged didn't have any effect. It threw a code p0444 as expected.
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Again some pictures would be great! Have you tried new plugs and run for some km then plug and check to gauge the extent of the problem and how the start up white smoke is affected? The dirty oily parts around connectors is bad or old oring on the fittings just leaking a bit of vacuum in. How much oil are we talking about in these pipes, pictures pls
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Today I removed the TCU module and the DME module to check for bad connections corrosion and anything out of the ordinary. I also opened the dme to see if I had any dry joints or obviously failed components and if someone had put in a piggy back chip in there or something strange cos you never know! Also checked the wiring under the passenger seat and the foot well. I found nothing that would suggest any issues. Whilst putting the dme back I cleaned the two earth point just behind it just for the hell of it as I was already there. Car started and drove Normal (by normal that's stutter for me). Been reading a lot recently maybe even a little obsessively........ But I came across some info on symptoms of the evap canister being fuel saturated and it got me thinking back to when I bought the car. (p0441 or something) purge valve faulty was the only code and the car ran ok except it needed some tlc plugs coils and air filter change regular stuff for 110,000km. It was down on power a bit but it didn't buck and stutter really. Now some background info which I need to give big prop to some guys on another forum who explained how and more importantly when the purge valve opens! After approx 55oC (warming engine, not cold take note, this is where I'm getting excited) the purge valve is opened allowing vapors from the evap canister to mix and burn during engine conditions when there is vaccum. So that's idle and part throttle to the point vaccum changes to virtually nothing and positive pressure comes in as boost on a turbo car for example. So given all that, if and this is the big if, the evap canister is for some reason some how fuel saturated the purge valve is allowing an abnormally rich mix of vapors in to the engine creating a overly rich mix and stutter that I feel at low rpm until boost has arrived and it clears to higher rpm just great. Now if the purge valve is broken it won't open so it can't add the rich vapors as it is normally closed without a power signal to tell it to open. So getting to the theory which I will test tomorrow by diconencting the purge valve. My hypothesis is the previously failed purge valve and possibly the frequent habit off topping the tank after the first click which here in dubai the pump attendants do all the time to reach a higher whole number, has saturated the evap canister maybe?? This may also explain the intermittent issue it runs ok when hot occasionally and some weird times when the tank is low it seems to be running ok but never has it ran well after filling the tank or with a relatively high fuel level half way or above. Experience of this on the Web is very minimal but if anyone has some info or first hand experience of this please reply. Tomorrow I will run the morning from cold start with the purge valve power plug disconnected. I have less than 1/4 tank so I will also be filling it up to see what happens after filling all the time the purge valve will be disconnected. Crankshaft position sensor is still waiting despatch from US so I got some days to kill until that job. Pray to the automotive gods this is going somewhere.........
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Read the fault codes ........... Then Check coils for cracks first if no codes found. After that the list is longer and more involved especially if you don't have a code and it's intermittent. Good luck.
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Derrick did you get this fixed? Pls detail the findings and also explain briefly the symptoms of running with this error. Thank you.
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Another cayenne owner had steering wheel lights not working....... Ended up being the old battery giving up. New battery fixed it. Maybe having a loose terminal connection has also drained the battery beyond reliable use? Or a slow trickle charge for 12 hrs will bring it back to life and work normally possibly?
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All parts are oem or original brands Beru Bosch ngk etc
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Transfer case fluid drained only 550ml came out, should have been close to 1000ml. I refilled with new fluid. Seems to be working just fine except the leaking end seals. Cleaned it up for now. Note to self drain and change fluid every 6 months before it all leaks out. Also put the battery charger on as I'm paranoid about having a dead battery again especially as the Audi is still being repair in the body shop. The voltage was 12.57 before charging so battery seems OK for now anyway. But a quick charge couldn't hurt
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Sorry email was my typo lol. Fat finger and small keyboard on mobile great combo, not. The control arm is the engine torque arm bolted to the left valve cover and the inner wing. Its new as well. Thomas this filter is an interesting one. Anybody have a picture or any info on this blocking up and the symptoms of this?
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Yep I already order one from us 52 dollars. I don't follow your email maybe some typos there? AOS yes I've had it out twice it isn't leaking or damaged. What was the other one? Control arm bars?
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Ive been bashing the net all night and i remembered i had a code twice maybe thrice in the transmission module dtc code 1314 dme control unit It cleared and didnt come back i thought maybe a sympton of the bad batterylies ive had and alternator. Reading more about this could mean infact dispite no dme codes there is an unlying issue not so apparent. I also read how conveniently the "crankshaft position sensor" could throw this code. A guy with another porshe had a cps going bad only when hot, never when engine cold which is mine exactly. More conjecture, more throwing parts a philosophy i hate and more money maybe. At this stage how easy it is to remove it i may buy one off ebay for 50 bucks and do it. What i got to lose.....yeah i know 50 bucks and alittle more pride. Related or unrelated i have fluid leak from the transfer case ends i think. Also note shifts have become occasionally rough but could be the crap running engine doing that.
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I'm thinking dme! Whats the chances?
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Removed and tested th crankshaft position sensor. Pin 1&2 921 ohms. Pin 1&3 open circuit Pin 1&2 when passing a spanner past the magnets produces a voltage varying random numbers. Don't have a scope to see the wave form unfortunately. Sensor no damage, a bit of dirt but nothing I can say is wrong with it. I gave it a little rub with soft scotch brite pad. Cleaner concnector and examined cable length for damage,......nothing. Loren please confirm if the ohms is correct? Also the voltage to the sensor I measured is 4.2vdc is this correct? I thought they use 5 vdc. If anything the car runs like crap more than previous days, I did a quick throttle reset when picking up my son and it was dog rough on the short drive home. Also the start up was laboured I hope not another battery failure. FYI every morning for just 5 mins it will run its best, once warm it's a turd the whole day. So frustrating I swear, I have so much patience but this is trying me hard .
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Just had a look at the wire connection of the crankshaft sensor and it was cable tied together as the lock clip is broke. When I unplugged it it looks like the female side pump are looking wet or have some oil/wd40 in there (didn't show up on the picture though). I tried to blow it out and also warmed it with a lighter to try drying it but its not going, didnt have any electrical cleaner with me in the car park to spray it clean. Tomorrow will pull out the sensor and check it for dirt cracks loose magnet and resistance and go from there.
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Mike we need to find the requested boost and graph against actual, this will tell if the boost system is doing as it's told or not. The graphs of each of these should follow each other quite closely or it spells an issue. Fuel pump was a bust! I'm holding back the tears........ Lol
