lewisweller

Try fs11 in the "water box"

http://www.totalcardiagnostics.com/shop/vagcom-15-original-vcds I bought this cable and downloaded the 15.7.1 version of vcds and it seems to work very well. No label files so you have to know what your looking at.

I'm using vcds vagcom 15.7.1 on my 06 ctt. Have you looked at your coding to determine if your headlight is via level control or partly via headlight aim Control? You could try to recode this level control module and also have a look at the 4 corner level sensor readings to make sure they are sensible readings and recalibrate it anyway. If wiring/sensor is not an issue it sounds like the headlight and suspension height are not matching up and throwing a fault. Have you check the connections and cleaned them all with electrical cleaner spray. Seem strange you get fault after replacing something. Are these ballast oem or aftermarket?

This stinks of a oil cooler failure! You better hope I'm right cos that is a lot cheaper than double head gaskets, ask me how I know. Merry Xmas.

Well the precat o2 sensor on bank 1 is installed, piece of cake to do infact. I was worried by the DIY I read of special tools and bending 22mm spanners. I had a sacrificial 22 mm spanner and blow torch ready but when I got underneath (wheel off and on a jack stand) I could easily put the spanner on it and with a 1/2 turn it was loose enough to hand thread it out. Burnt my arm on the cat because I'm impatient to let it cool down any longer, got Xmas prep to do as well today, great. So yeah easy peasy to swap on this side at least. Take a look at the graph of both bank 1 (new) and bank 2 existing precat wide band lamba sensors. 4 times snap throttle and they look perfect. Before the bank 1 sensor was not reaching peak milli amps at all and lagged behind the bank 2 sensor. Now they are almost a perfect mirror image trace. It is likely the sensor was damaged as a direct result of this banks previous blown head gasket (coolant into the combustion chamber) contamination of silicon which makes the sensor "lazy". Unfortunately whilst I'm faffing around with this graph and pictures I'm hearing a whine from the throttle body I think. Ahhhhhhhh ffs can anything just go right and be f***ing fixed for once pls. The drive home was uneventful and short, I don't know what the verdict is driving wise yet. Need to do some km's and see how the fuel trims adapts, if the the stutter is reduced or not and if the fuel economy is better.

New sensors Resistance of the heater circuit is 2.9ohms measured across white and grey wire terminal 3 heater - and terminal 4 heater + respectively. Old sensor measured 3.7ohms. (Bosch LS7174, 5 wire lambda sensor)

Resistance of the heater circuit is 2.9ohms measured across white and grey wire terminal 3 and 4 respectively.

O2 sensor fitment tomorrow I'm hoping my early Xmas present to the PIG will be received with the gratitude of stopping the stuttering.

Are you looking for pre or post cat sensor resistance reading? They are different. I got a new Bosch oem precat sensor which I will install tomorrow on my 2006 ctt. I will measure the heat circuit ohms for you. FYI you bought the wrong sensor but I admire your efforts to find a work around. Kudos if you fix it and reach for the wallet if you can't.

Third new battery installed all seems well although the other two new batteries worked well for a while! We will see what happens to this one...............

The vcds version I have is 15.7.1 Menu chassis then click 34 "level control"

Sorry my bad. You are correct 14 is left pump primary, 13 is right pump secondary.

That is some oily plugs, your either having bad piston rings or valve stems seals or more likely a pcv problem think AOS or turbo seal. This amount of oil on the plugs spells trouble. First thing to do is compression test and leak down check. And also have the coolant tested for hydrocarbons to eliminate the possibility your head gaskets is blown. Or just take the cap off when its cold and sniff it, if you smell fuel rather than a dull sweetness you may have a blown head gasket. I think the alternator also sounds suspect and the "new battery" could be the cover up before sale. It should remain stable voltage wise or the regulator is failing. I don't know if it's possible the water cooling of the alternator (if a fault inside) could cause the expansion tank to boil or overflow/leak, this is more likely a split expansion tank as many have failed over the years, well documented here if you do a search.

That's weird, which version of vcds you have? I'm also 2006 ctt, I run version 15.1 I think and it picks up on nearly all modules. Try doing an auto scan from the list by selecting Touareg 2003-200? Can't remember but its there. It takes a while to find and scan each module. Copy the scan and post it here.

Some pictures of plugs would have been good. Also get some diagnostic software my friend, your pissing in the wind right now.

I'm sorry I don't understand your reply. Which models and year Cayenne you have?

No difference apart from you found a better price I think.

Is it under warranty then? All oem parts have 1 yr warranty.

Yes this is the eps kit mentioned above, just note this kit only replaces the mount it does not replace the bearing itself! If the bearing is worn or noisy this is not the total solution. Eps have provided a tube of grease to repack the bearing which is prudent and in most cases this will work for many for years.

Result! Let us know how the oil stabiliser works on the diff noise pls.

Go to chassis tab and select 34 self level suspension. The vcds actually gives you on screen tutorial on how to use this for calibration. Put in the security code as it instructs 15624 iirc and then begin the calibration sequence. Knowing the correct measurements is a bit difficult as vw and Porsche take the mm measurement from different places and there fore the mm you see on vcds won't relate to your thinking, so don't try to compare it just use it a number. What I did was measured the rear from centre hub to arch then compared to front. Cross reference that against the vcds figure and input the difference as a subtraction to the mm measurement on the front thus fooling the vcds into thinking the front is low and it will pump it up. Eg Rear 240mm Front 215mm (but we know its incorrect because it's sagging) So try telling it the front is actually 195mm thus it will raise it by 20mm next time. Now you have 235mm. Compare front and back I think normal ride height is around 8-10cm from top of tyre to wheel arch. It's a bit fiddly so leave yourself a good few hours to have a play. If the reading you put in the test is not accepted then rock the car forward and back until it accepts the number you entered. You can even drive forward and back small amount as I did. If you get any error you must start again from security code input forward. I'm out of country so this is the best I could remember. If anyone else knows how to do this with vcds better pls chime in, I think my method is haphazard but was the only way I got my to level back up and it's worked fine since.

Sounds like you have a battery voltage issue maybe, I think your warnings and psm are ghost faults caused by something else hence why a new level sensor didn't fix the problem. If you haven't already got diagnostic tool aka Durametrics I suggest you invest $200-300.

You need to recalibrate the air suspension assuming everything is put back together correctly.? You could try disconnecting the battery for 30 mins and reconnecting (go for a slow speed drive carefully avoid tight turns and bumps, the system might initialise and pump up to set heights but I doubt it). I had the same issue after changing the top strut arm and only could get it working after recalibration using my Ross-tech vagcom vcds as the Cayenne utilises basically the same as a touareq control module.

Yes Likely the manifold gasket is not seated correctly. I assume you put new green gaskets on? Advisable to replace the throttle body gasket o-ring as well and give the throttle body a clean and alignment after clearing codes when reassembled. Have you checked your AOS and 3 way check valve works properly?

Welcome. Have a look at the below thread which I have loaded some pictures with notations to identify and locate the various pipe of the manifold and changeover valve (controls the divertor valves). Did you check the little one way check valves whilst you was in there? I mentioned which direction they work. Don't have any info on the diff leak but I do have a front diff bearing whine at speed around 120kph which I'm still looking for someone who stripped and replaced the bearing for some advice on feasibility of the DIY repair. If you do any work pls post info with pics thanks.