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lewisweller

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Everything posted by lewisweller

  1. lewisweller
    Thanks markota for updating and congrats on a successful swap. Today I'm driving the car to my warehouse where I will do the work after the weekend, I hope the battery will last the 25 minute journey or I'll be calling a recovery.... A side note, when the garage did my head gaskets the valves covers had been leaking for a long time, the Oil and middle east sand had caked the alternator totally, i was surprised it worked! This is testament to the water cooling as no air could get near it. I wish the alternator had failed then as the whole engine was out on the floor and the garage removed and totally cleaned the alternator but hey these things are sent to try us. Character building jobs...............lol
  2. lewisweller
    How did you, or are you, getting on with the alternator swap my friend? Did you skip the move to service position step like some have done? I think this just give extra space to wrestle the alternator out and down through the bottom? Im kinda going to wing it a bit, do the obvious steps and clear the way and see how I get on without the service position. Any advise appreciated...................
  3. lewisweller
    Thomas looking at you 5degrees timing at idle and 27degrees at 1100 rpm it is correct, also full trims looks OK within +-6%. Trigger wheel I don't think is the problem! The Maf flow is LOW 3 g/s, it should be 6g/s at idle. Rev and hold the engine to 3000rpm it should say around 25-27 g/s. If not then something is wrong! Damaged maf sensor, dirty, covered in oil etc?. Also another test is to measure the maf voltage with engine off ignition on, it should be 1.100volts or it is defective. Also you must be sure no coils are failing. If your codes don't relate to individual misfires on cylinders then maybe coils fitted at the moment are ok. What does the idle feel like? Smooth or rough? Stable of fluctuates?
  4. lewisweller
    Assuming you have check for codes and not found any then why not pull the coils (and plugs) and look for cracks and plug condition? Heating up then having issues also can be a sensor o2, temp etc or actuator like the n75 or change over valve, but more unlikely. I would focus and eliminate the coils and spark plugs first.
  5. lewisweller
    Sorry bit confused with your post, the steering is faulty but you mention the battery is fine but it won't turn over. Do you mean the steering fault is stopping the car from starting? Any fault codes or dash warnings? Possible a steering angle sensor signal is missing and preventing the car to start but need more info pls.
  6. lewisweller
    I just confirmed with Porsche and the revised part is 94860301505 with some 5 other parts which are screws, pipe fitting and heat shield which is the conversion to the updated alternator. Porsche want 6448dhs which is $1750! OMG. I found a remanufactured one on eBay UK for £139 plus exchange old one, bargain as mother is flying over on Sunday . Some advise for fitting would be good, I found a 2 part PDF instruction but the picture or rather diagrams from Porsche manual are terrible to follow. Anybody swapped their original alternator and used the revision one with a few changes as per Porsche recommendation? I'm hoping this goes smooth.........
  7. lewisweller
    What problems are you having and why do think there is a back up battery for the security system? First I heard of this. ..... couldn't find any diagram with a battery except under seat and some optional in boot secondary aux battery.
  8. lewisweller
    Home made smoker can be made from a clear 2 litre bottle, drill the cap a hole slightly smaller than a cigarette butt, also make a hole in the side of the bottle to fit an air source hose/ gun/ pipe from a air compressor or hand pump etc. Before testing Remove the air box pipes both sides and cover with a plastic food bag and duct tape tightly to make pipe ends leak tight. Remove the intake Y pipe mounted Map sensor, (pictured above my thumb in the second image) one torx screw T25 I think or a flat blade will do it, using the Map sensor hole place the bottle with a lit cigarette in the cap, put bottle upside down on the map sensor empty hole in the intake. Pressurised the bottle with air to force the cigarette to burn and push the smoke into the intake Y pipe and around the system. Look for smoke escaping around left and right side piping from turbo to intercooler and all those pesky vac tubes and other small pipes. You may need to used more than 1 cigarette to fill with smoke, I used 3 Total to get smoke everywhere it wanted to go, didn't find a leak though.
  9. lewisweller
    As if my ctt didn't already have me well invested....... today the wife's calls to say dash warning say "battery/generator fault". FYI I think this might well be the root cause to my many gremlins like "check tail lights and licence plate lights" when below 13.2 volts and "four wheel drive faulty" and engine hesitation !! She drove it straight home and parked it. I checked the battery (new in Feb 2016) voltage showed 12.4 volts this is low I know, started up ok (ran very poor) but charging is 12v off load and 11.85v with lights on, so Alternator is caput! When tested before a few weeks ago was 13.72v off load and 13.2 on load. Unless someone has any other viable possibilities? Heard of main cable fault on earlier models and fuse? So assuming all other possibilities get ruled out I'm looking for a re-manufactured alternator, there seems to be loads of revisions and different part number across the 2003-2006 yrs, but I'm sure mine is pn 95560301610 autoatlanta listing or 948603015 ECS Tuning listing) (190amp option code I8GY as per the specification print out from Porsche for my car). Some I found are 150amps and others for the earlier years which I think had a different electrical connector fitted? So question I'm asking is which Bosch of other brand remanufactured part is the right one for my alternator? Tech Info Appreciated. And some R+R DIY advice pls......
  10. lewisweller
    May I suggest considering the cost of a 1litre of Toyota type iv atf fluid you simply drain the TC fluid and have a look at the condition and any particle and also how much you get out, the TC will whine if the fluid is low!! This is a 15 minute job if you have a cheap hand fluid pump.
  11. lewisweller
    Looks like new engine oil. I bet someone put their top up oil 1litre bottle in there and it leaked! I had a film of oil in my spare wheel well and some dirt, cleaned it out when I bought the car but no idea what component could put engine oil there. If cleaned up does it return? If so sell the car quick it must possessed and dripping super natural liquids. I can't think of any other possibility and as sherlock says "if you have eliminated the possible then only the improbably remains which must be the truth"
  12. lewisweller
    If a new or used rear CCM is fitted and coded correctly can the existing car key(s) be synchronised to the new/used replacement module by using the Vag method which involves one key in the ignition (on with engine off position) and then the second key in the drivers door lock, you lock the car with the barrel and press the remote to lock and then unlock, repeat and some beeps/horn will sound to indicate the key was recognised by the rear ccm. Swap key fobs and repeat as required. It works for touareg, audi other vw etc. I have vagcom and suspect my rear ccm to be faulty hence my inquisitive transcript. I've recoded it before with vagcom, being a vw module after all, and it accepted it. It's only the key issue uncertainty which prevents me from changing the rear ccm. Appreciate your tech support loren or others. Thanks
  13. lewisweller
    With the suspension in high position and locked (hold sector in high position for 20 seconds until dash indicates) you can crawl under enough to give the centre bearing a good shake and tug. It should be solid. What normally happened is the bearing get hot first and wears out the rubber bush. If all feels good RE cardan shaft centre bearing then yes move onto the TC transfer case, most likely the chain is rubbing on the case because it is stretched. YouTube video has a guy with a touareg who striped his TC and found only the stretched chain was causing your same symptoms! Also another guy stripped his and found nothing. He then went back to the cardan shaft, removed it and spun it in his lave, despite finding it in good condition when he checked previously on the car, long story short it was the centre bearing and Bush!
  14. lewisweller
    +1 cardan shaft
  15. lewisweller
    Update for this I have just replaced two check valves found to be leaking numbers 13 and 25 on the diagram. Cleared the dtc codes (no actual codes but this clears the fuel trim learnt values) went for a quick drive 15km and it was definitely adapting to something. Not conclusive yet if this crack the problem so jury is still out, will put on some more km tomorrow and see what's up.
  16. lewisweller
    Lol after 4 yrs updates. Hehe. Which bushings was it? I've had some low speed steering juddering which I'm pretty sure is inside the servotronic but it so random and does not affect any driving so I ignore the problem when it makes it.
  17. lewisweller
    Yes a lot of questions, myself and a few other members have been trying to track down our own separate issues which involved fuel, vacuum and sensors. Fuel filter and regulator issue are not necessarily an on or off type of possible failure. Definitely don't rule them out. This 1/4 tank situation is very interesting and I would definitely open both side and inspect the pipes for twisting, cracks leaks etc. One guy had a cracked pipe which transfers the fuel from right side pump to left side connector before going into the filter. He had similar issues it would run Ok then have issues stall depending on fuel level and which pump(s) was running. Another, link below, is for the driver side pump "primary pump", definitely check the new pump is working properly and that all those pesky pipes are not kinked or split. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5432546-04-Touareg-runs-for-about-10-secs-and-dies#/topics/5432546?_k=qjgisg
  18. lewisweller
    Hello and welcome to the cayenne club........ Firstly does sound like fuel related, assuming the NEW pump(s) are not faulty there is also a possibility the many fuel pipes in the tank can be split and leaking on the straight or elbows fitting. Also you do not mention the filter and regulator were replaced? Also suspicious of those two components for this problem. Regulator will increase cranking time, filter can be very clogged and intermittently blog up flow. On the touareg forum one guy had a bad earth wire between the ECU and the primary fuel pump left side (driver side if left hand drive). The cayenne will run both pumps on start up then switch to the "primary pump" after 5 seconds unless fuel tank is nearly empty then both pumps run all the time. Whats the fuel level? Also possible is evap blockage or tank ventilation problem. Try removing fuel cap and start the car, and try starting the car and then remove the fuel cap and see if make any difference. Lastly the fuel maybe a total red herring and this is a sensor problem which is not showing any fault codes. Like maf sensor, o2 sensor, crank cam position sensors etc .......the list is long. Unplug the the maf's and try starting it.
  19. lewisweller
    What codes have you got? I did the actuator solenoid Seals today went really well and about 15mins work. I ended buying from local Porsche centre as I couldn't find anything generic in the market. $50 for the pair. See pictures I put rtv gasket seal maker around the lip and used a 32mm socket to gently tap it into place, it actually goes in real easy. Quick wipe around and all done. I also changed the number 13 on parts diagram check valve that plugs into the AOS and two other tubes. One more tube with built in check valve number 25 is on order still. Really excited to get this last part and fingers crossed drive the ctt in top working order as Porsche intended, God knows I put enough time, did so much investigation and spent too much money on this thing now. The wife is questioning my logic in selling the stage 2 tuned 350bhp 2012 Golf R for this bigger boot Cayenne and so am I. Must keep the faith........must keep the faith.......
  20. lewisweller
    What codes have you got? I did the actuator solenoid Seals today went really well and about 15mins work. I ended buying from local Porsche centre as I couldn't find anything generic in the market. $50 for the pair. See pictures I put rtv gasket seal maker around the lip and used a 32mm socket to gently tap it into place, it actually goes in real easy. Quick wipe around and all done. I also changed the number 13 on parts diagram check valve that plugs into the AOS and two other tubes. One more tube with built in check valve number 25 is on order still. Really excited to get this last part and fingers crossed drive the ctt in top working order as Porsche intended, God knows I put enough time, did so much investigation and spent too much money on this thing now. The wife is questioning my logic in selling the stage 2 tuned 350bhp 2012 Golf R for this bigger boot Cayenne and so am I. Must keep the faith........must keep the faith.......
  21. lewisweller
    I think unless someone is a decent company and the price considerably less than Beru I wouldn't consider it. I think the Beru coils are susceptible to heat, if someone's cayenne has an aging cooling system which localised cylinder wall heat spikes and the long service life of plugs these days transferring more heat through the plug into the coil must play a factor. I wonder if a more frequent spark replacement and water pump and thermostat schedule replacement at say 100k km would be of any benefit to cool service life? Economically maybe not! Being stranded somewhere vs more maintenance cost? I guess this doesn't really address the issue..... Beru pls make better ignition coils. Lol
  22. lewisweller
    Without removal and connecting to 12vdc supply to watch the small oil control valves opening and closing I'm not sure how to be honest. The soleniod coil will have a resistance range to be operational, I will measure that ohms tomorrow and report back what mine are. If you had a problem with this soleniod the car wouldn't have proper power through the rev range, it would be flat like no boost feeling, also you would definitely have a code for the valve timing deviation.
  23. lewisweller
    Well we do in fact have a choice "Huco", weather it's a better choice I have no idea. ECS Tuning is selling this brand for vw Jetta I noticed.. http://m.ebay.com/itm/HUCO-Ignition-Coil-Fits-PORSCHE-Cayenne-955-4-5L-2002-2007-/161893121612?nav=SEARCH Anybody want to be the product tester for us all?
  24. lewisweller
    Thomas I got these oil Seals out today in 5 mins with just a flat blade screw driver. By wedging the flat blade in between the case and the seal and twisting the screw driver (do not lever, it will crack the valve casing) it will deformed the seal enough to pull it out easily. I've contacted my seal guy and seeing him tomorrow to check if he has something that will work. If not plan B go to Porsche and buy. Word of advise the way I did it WILL cause some scratches on the valve cover case where the seal seats. I will be reinstalling new Seals with a bead of gasket sealer on the seat before I install the new oil seal. I guarantee it won't leak after but still my disclaimer to anyone reading, don't blame me for the scratches caused by using the shortcut screw driver method to avoid removing the both the valve covers!
  25. lewisweller
    Ha ha too true, I have my little V-checker PRO Vag tool, and two tool boxes with every tool required for a roadside dilemma always in the cayenne! Audi nothing but a phone charger adaptor cable lol.
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