Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


Contributing Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by GOB

  1. The ex head mechanic of the local Porsche dealer here charges per job to be performed, not per hour. Local dealer does the same (bill per job to be done, don't break it out into time). Just to drop my engine (tiptronic C4S) will be $1,000 at the indie. He says it is way to uncomfortable to do the AOS with the engine in place, specially on a tip car.
  2. Update: took the car to the local dealer and the shop manager took a look at the expansion tank and he claims it is not intermix and most likely it is that the PO used some non Porsche coolant. He said this after looking at the coolant expansion tank and smelling it, he says their is no oil residue at all (I agree, no oil upon visual and tactile inspection). Car will be vacuum flushed and pressure tested on Tuesday. He also claims that it is not a cracked head as the temps do not rise quickly and the car runs fine when warm. He claims that the white smoke is from when they recently overfilled it with oil. I checked the oil level last night, using the dipstick, and it is in fact still overfilled as confirmed by the dash oil level measurement (all bars lit). Of note, the huge puff of white smoke was one time only, then the other two times when smoke came out, it was 1/10 of the first large puff. He claims that this is further proof that it is excess oil from the overfill being burnt. I am keeping fingers crossed that the cooling system holds pressure (I will be there to visually confirm the results...) and that the new clean coolant remains that way for a very long time. I'd like to take a minute to thank you all for your replies and guidance. Will report back next week after coolant flush and pressure test.
  3. And to fix, it entails replacing heads (assuming that in fact it is a cracked head), correct? Will research into leakdown tests (TDC or not, engine cold or not, how much pressure should be use, for how long, readings, acceptable leakdown numbers, etc). And to think I got the car 7 weeks ago and only put 600 miles in it....
  4. Besides the UV dye test (I called the local dealer and they had never heard of such a thing, nor the largest auto parts store), is there anything else I can do to determine if what I am seeing on my car is intermix? I don't have the milk chocolate thick goo as others have posted, but it is also not pink or green as standard Porsche coolants are. Reason why I am asking this is because of some occasional puffs of white smoke on initial startup after the car sits for a while, but only comes from the passenger side muffler. I thought it was AOS, but removing the oil filler cap was as easy to remove as if the engine was not running, all I got was some wind noise (breather/sucking air in) and a very slight (almost minimal) change in RPM (definitely not rough idling). Here is what my expansion tank looks like:
  5. I found my answer on other sites. Apparently it is a "characteristic" of these transmissions. Perhaps this may help someone in the future researching this site as a reference point. Lesson learned, only shift into first gear while either at a complete stop, or as you are accelerating hard, but never shift into first as you are slowly coasting to a stop, otherwise, you will hear/feel a clunk/thunk.
  6. Sorry to bring back to life an old thread, but does this clunk also applies to the 2002 models? It only "clunks" when using the buttons on the steering wheel at speeds of 5-6 mph or less when coming to a stop. If I am at a complete stop, foot on the brake, no clunk at all when placed in first gear. Just wanted to confirm that it is "normal" for the 2002+ cars also as it appears to be the case on the 98/99 cars
  7. If I can't figure out how to make the stock one work, then this one will have to do! Problem with the stock one right now is that it is apparently filled to the max, thus pushing my lower back off the backrest, so I need to figure out how to remove the air it has now. Will try reaching behind the cover (hope not to break any clips!) and mess around with it.
  8. My apologies to all for bringing back old threads regarding lumbar problems. On my car, the button for adjustment is there and I can hear "something" trying to move, but nothing happens in the seat. I could take it to the dealer, but just for diagnosis, they are quoting $300 (remove and re install seat). I'd like to see if there is something I can do myself. Have done tons of searching on the subject, but a lot of posts like this one...
  9. Sorry to bring back a nearly 7 year old thread, but I am having the same lumbar support problem as the OP. Anyone know what this could be?
  10. If a "generic", i.e. Pep Boys or such, could do the same job, would anyone care to share the specs needed on the shock? Perhaps a brand and model number?
  11. I hate being a pest, but any chance I could get this diagram that you offered?
  12. Find one of my posts where I had a similar problem except I got stuck in "D". At the end of the day, it turned out to be the cable that connects the shifter to the transmission. It was a couple of hundred bucks at the dealer to fix. Soon after the repair, my airbag light turned on. In my research, apparently this is a common occurrence when messing around with the shifter. The dealer refuses to accept responsibility for this and now I am stuck with an airbag light permanently on and the dealer says that to fix it I must replace the driver's side curtain airbag....
  13. I had the same issue on my ex 996, and as clarksongli pointed out, it's more than likely that it is an ill adjusted parking break.
  14. Thank you very much! Looking forward to the pictures!
  15. Just for reference sake, in case anyone ever has the problem where the rear door refuses to open by pulling on the interior and exterior handle, a simple and temporary fix would be to apply quite a bit of pressure from the outside (as if trying to close the door shut) while at the same time pull on the exterior handle. After a few pulls on the exterior handle while applying a lot of pressure (enough to shake the truck) near the latch area will yield an open door. Apparently this is an indication of a soon to fail lock mechanism. Another tell tale sign of this is when you need to pull more than once in case the car is unlocked or more than twice to unlock it. Just another extremely annoying problem with this truck :cursing: Hope it helps someone in the future.
  16. I searched for the words seatback, disassembly, seat back and no such luck. In its permanent problematic stage, the latest incident with my truck is that I was adjusting the lumbar support and all of the sudden, the driver's seatback decided to "pop out"! I am referring to the plastic piece that covers ±50% of the driver's seatback. I tried to press it in again and it sort of worked, but after two days, there is a good 1-2" gap. Dealer can't look at it until perhaps Saturday, but I have a potential buyer lined up for tomorrow morning and I would like to fix this before he sees it. Anyone has an exploded diagram of how this all comes together? Thanks in advance for your help.
  17. Thanks Loren. Is there a how-to-fix-it somewhere around here? Searched, but no results.
  18. I too have this "low idle problem". Is the fix new engine mounts? Is the fix cleaning the throttle body? Bad MAF? Is there a way to adjust the idle? What should be the proper idle rpm?
  19. In the never ending glitches on my 2003 Turbo, I just noticed that the lights on the dash "flicker" if the headlights are on low beam. As soon as I put the high beams on, the flickering stops. I tried the low vs. high beam while the car was in Park. Idling the car to 2-3K did not fix the problem either. Any ideas why this is happening? I am getting a warning message that says "check side lights" and will be taken care of when the truck goes into the shop on Friday.
  20. Just to confirm that it is normal. The head mechanic told me to manually put just the center vents on the display as this would close (assuming that the micro motors for the vent controls are properly aligned..) the vent that directs air to the windshield.
  21. I'd like to thank all who helped me in solving this issue. Dealer just called me to tell me that in fact they messed up when putting my car back together and in fact one of the electromagnets was missing (their fault). Now all is back to fine. I will make another post with images of the "damaged" cable (I personally don't see it damaged, but.....).
  22. Just dropped off the truck at the stealership so they can take a look again at the job performed. Their jaws nearly dropped when I explained to them what could be the culprit of this new problem and furthermore with the part number of the electromagnets. Let's see what they come back with in a few hours.
  23. UPDATE: I just got the truck back this past Saturday due to a major delay in getting the part delivered. I saw the "old" cable and the ends look like they are new! Will post some images so some experts will chime in as to wether or not it merited replacement or not. So far, the truck is working, BUT....., somehow, they managed to mess up the manual mode of the shifter. If I put the lever into the manual portion of the gate, the lever will sometimes work, others (most of the time) does not. When it works, it upshifts fine from first to second to third, but that is it. Downshifting never works. The transmission will work "manually" from the buttons on the steering wheel. Stealership says that it now needs a new sensor and the sensor alone was over $450. I am SSSOOO fet up with this vehicle and the dealer.
  24. Found the cable in USA for $160 and the ex head mechanic at the local dealer would charge me $250 to replace the cable. Just posting this for future reference in case it helps someone later on.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.