Chris_in_NH

wow. i can't believe someone would buy a car and let it sit, virtually un-used for 11 years. that is shameful. hopefully you will use the car as intended. ;) below are a number of very helpful Boxster sites that contain TONS of information, and answers to most of the frequently-asked questions. you will want to 'bookmark' (if you are using the Firefox browser) or 'add to Favorites' (if you are using the Internet Explorer browser) these sites so you don't have to type the address every time you want to visit them. here are the sites: http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/mikespor...boxsterwebpages http://www.986faq.com/ http://boxster.wikia.com/wiki/Main_Page http://www.pelicanparts.com/PartsLookup/HT...USA_KATALOG.htm (this is a visual parts catalog where you can look at diagrams of parts and ballpark prices for those parts) http://www.ppbb.com is another great Boxster forum that you will want to join. most people here are also members at PPBB (Porsche Pete's Boxster Board). http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/ (this link contains detailed instructions with pictures on how to change your brake pads, rotors, power window motor, and many other helpful projects) some of the best (and cheapest) parts suppliers are: Sunset Imports in Oregon http://www.sunsetimports.com Suncoast Porsche in Florida http://www.suncoastporsche.com AutohausAZ in Arizona http://www.autohausAZ.com you will want to avoid buying any parts from your local dealer unless you absolutely need to in an emergency situation. dealers for the most part are extremely overpriced. although Sunset Imports and Suncoast Porsche are dealers, they have an Internet sales business that allows them to sell parts for much less than what they would charge at the parts counter. for Auto Care, Waxes, Polishes, etc., you will want to visit (and bookmark) these sites. of course there are plenty more suppliers, but here are two good ones. http://www.autopia-carcare.com/ http://www.griotsgarage.com/ for any and every cheap tool, http://www.harborfreight.com is one of the best. good luck!

changing the ignition switch is pretty simple, you just need to be flexible and have the right tool (a stubby screwdriver). here's a link to instructions. http://industryfigure.com/berkeley/Porsche...itionswitch.htm

here's the link to the power window DIY, as well as some other DIY projects. http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/

i think the dealer may be your best bet on this one. you don't want just anyone messing with your cluster. but before you do that, are you sure that you put the bulbs in correctly with a 'stab-and-twist' motion? i don't know how much experience you have here, so that's why i'm asking these basic questions. ;) are you also sure that the backlighting is just not turned down with the lightbulb stalk on top of the cluster (next to the clock set stalk)? turning and holding it to the right should turn the lights up (brighter) :lightbulb: if that's the case. are you also sure that the cluster's 3 wiring harnesses are connected properly? if that doesn't work, i would give the car a 'hard reboot' and disconnect the neg battery cable for a few minutes, then re-attach it. it probably won't do anything, but it's worth a shot. put the old bulbs back in the cluster and then disconnect/reconnect the battery. turn the lightbulb stalk again. if you have a 97-02, you will need your 4-digit radio code to get the radio working again after the battery disconnect, so make sure you have it. it may be in your owner's manual flip-case on a business card-sized card, or the code may be written somewhere in the owners manual(s), or maybe written on the option sticker under the front trunk hood. if you don't have it, there is a 'sticky' thread at the top of this forum for radio code requests. if the lights still don't work after the 'reboot', i would get a multimeter and test the bulb receptacles. you will obviously need to have the 3 harnesses on the rear of the cluster connected while you test. you will want to cover your steering wheel/dash area with a thick towel so that the pegs on the bottom of the cluster don't scratch/gouge your dash. what are the specs on the LEDs (wattage, size, etc.)? i don't see how you could fry the electronics, especially with LED bulbs. if all else fails, i see the dealer in your future. :help: p.s. next time, you should just reply to your original message so that everyone can see the history of your problem without having to view multiple threads. ;)

can you post a picture of it? it may be as simple as gluing it down.

for some reason i just saw this... still available? yes. :)

when changing the transmission fluid, be sure to remove the fill plug BEFORE you remove the drain plug. the fill plug can be extremely difficult to unscrew (i recommend giving both the fill and drain plugs a shot of PB Blaster 24 hours before trying to remove them) and if you drain the transmission fluid and can't remove the fill plug, you're stuck. as far as the 11mm below the opening, i used the small end of an allen wrench to gauge the fill level inside the fill hole. just measure the end of the allen wrench and note where the transmission oil wets the wrench.

success! congrats! :)

try http://www.autohausaz.com

glad to hear it. you don't need to leave the cable off for more than a minute. once the power's off, it's off. ;) There are capacitors in the DME that will need to discharge. But that said, I left it unplugged for that long because I was busy working on the other car too. :P I think I spoke too soon. The hesitation has gradually come back. I wonder if the car does have to be reprogrammed for the 125.01 MAF. Doesn't make sense to me because the Bosch part number is the same as the 125.00 MAF. The new MAF is not throwing a CEL. The only CEL I have at the moment is a P1118 for a bad O2 sensor heater. Suggestions, anyone? Should I bite the bullet and take it in to the dealer? Unplug the MAF's wiring harness, then reset the DME via the battery disconnect and drive without the MAF connected. see if the hesitation goes away. if it does go away, then perhaps you do need a reprogram at the dealer.

yeah, but it's not really worth it sound-wise or price-wise, IMHO.

$65 to mount/balance 2 tires is reasonable. most independent tire shops charge $25-50 per tire. and 'performance' wheels mount/balance usually costs more than 'regular' wheels (like on an Accord or similar). i would also take pictures of the wheels before you hand them over AND do a look-over with the shop manager before they touch them. i can't tell you how many people have had problems because they did not do this.

do you have pics of your system? i'm very interested. :)

yup, i agree that the Kenwood 6" compact sub probably doesn't compare to a 'real' sub, however it does make the stereo system sound 1000x better.

if you are limber and your stereo is in one of the two bottom slots in the center console, you may be able to access the fuse without removing the radio. pull off the removable side carpet piece (it just un-snaps, you won't break it), grab a flashlight and see if you can see/remove the fuse from the back of the radio. if you can't reach the fuse from behind, a local car stereo shop may have a set of Porsche removal keys if you don't want to wait. you really only need them for about 30 seconds to check the fuse. i have the radio removal keys if you want to borrow them. just send me a PM with your name/address and i'll mail them out to you and you can just mail them back when you're done. ;)

i'd like to know this too. i know that GAHH sells replacement leather, but it's expensive. www.gahh.com

yes, blue mats with silver lettering. thanks for the compliment. :) here's what the whole thing looks like:

Angie, this is what i would do: - check the radio fuse in the driver's footwell. there should be a little booklet on the inside of the fuse cover which tells you which fuse is which. if the booklet is not there, the info is in your owners manual. in my car the radio fuse is B2 (row B, fuse 2) but it might be different in your car. take the fuse out and see if the wire connection inside the fuse is broken. if it is, replace the fuse with a fuse of the same rating. there may be a few spares at the bottom of the fuse panel. - if that doesn't work, the fuse on the back of the radio may have blown. you will need to remove the radio to check it. you will need to buy some radio keys to remove the radio. you can buy them from www.beckerautosound.com. keep in mind that these keys cost about $2. there are many sellers on eBay that try to charge $10-20 for them. don't buy them if they cost that much. if the fuse is blown replace it and see what happens. - find an independent Porsche shop in your area. try to stay away from the dealership if you like to keep your $$. - have them test your old battery and your alternator - go here http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/batteries and choose a battery and buy it (or tell the independent which one to buy for you) good luck.

i'm not sure if you've seen this post but this person put 8" low-profile subs in his doors. if the doors will fit an 8" sub, then that's the way to go, IMHO. this is what i plan to do soon. i would also think that a sub in the dash would rattle like crazy. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=14162 at the moment, i have a compact sub in the passenger footwell. it's a little cumbersome, but most of the time i'm driving by myself, so it's not a big deal. it only takes up about 4"-6" of legroom in the passenger footwell, so if the passenger moves the seat all the way back there is usually enough room for them to stretch their legs. plus, the compact sub puts out TONS of bass with its 6" speakers! i can only imagine that 8" subs would put out MORE bass. :)

Thanks guys. I will scratch that idea then. Now, can anyone tell me what the dimension are for the radio? Are they close to 169 x 182 x 53 (mm) ? I am looking at an aftermarket radio. radios are measured in 'DIN' sizes, which are standard. the CDR-23 is a 1-DIN, for example. so whatever aftermarket radio you buy, it will fit. most aftermarket radios are single DIN which have face dimensions of 50mm (2 inches) tall by 180mm (7 inches) wide. a double DIN is twice as tall and the same width. the radios do vary in *depth* though, and it's important that you know if the radio you want will fit in(to) your dash. most will fit, no problem. ;)

looking at the headlights, if you have Litronics, the lens will look like a little 'eye' (a small circle of glass) within the larger lens. if you have what looks like just a normal headlight lens, then you have halogen bulbs. Litronics normal halogens you'll just want to be careful buying any aftermarket bulb if you have the normal halogen lights. the aftermarket 'xenon-look' bulbs frequently put out too much heat and you can melt or discolor your headlight lenses, and they are NOT cheap to replace. just make sure the bulb wattage is 55-60w or less. if you don't have Litronics, many people have done a xenon conversion for relatively cheap money ($130-$200). here's a link to one. you can find many more conversion kits on eBay. http://www.cqlight.ca/index.php?cPath=32&a...69619c9eb913c62 and here's the DIY for changing headlights. http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/headlamp/

yup, same thing happens to me. ;)

yes, the price on factory Litronics has gone waaaay up recently. they used to be $1300 for a pair. now they are more like $2400 per pair. i would try to find some used Litronics or do the xenon conversion that some folks here have done (for less than $150! - but you won't have the headlight 'dip' when braking. this is not a concern for most people.)

i don't know if i'd consider a leaking RMS a deal-breaker. if you are getting a good enough deal on the car and you made money on the other Boxster, putting $1200 into it for a new RMS isn't too bad. or maybe you could get the guy to take $1200 off the price to account for the new RMS. you probably have a 50% chance of *any* Boxster you buy eventually having an RMS leak. you might as well have the seller 'pay' for it now. ;)

sounds like classic Air-Oil Separator failure to me. being down 2 quarts of oil is not 'a little'. the bad AOS was probably feeding that oil to your engine. you may have hydrolocked it. did any oil come out of the cylinders when you removed the plugs? speaking of plugs, that plug looks like it got beat up by the piston. not good. i can't think of how that could happen unless the plugs were screwed in WAY too tight. what were the codes you were getting? also, when you are removing/installing the MAF, you need to reset the DME by disconnecting the neg battery cable for at least a minute after you disconnect/reconnect the MAF's wiring harness. (you will need your radio code to get the radio working again). that is probably why your car wouldn't even idle with the MAF removed. what is happening with the car right now? will the engine turn, will it start, run poorly, die, etc.?