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CJ_Boxster
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Everything posted by CJ_Boxster
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I think that the DME adjust with the MAF as its condition deteriates and runs fine until u disconnect the battery and the DME has to relearn the charactoristics of the MAF and other sensors and since the MAF is too dirty, the DME has a hell of a time trying to relearn with it and ends up losing the high end torque. thats my theory, probably wrong but meh. -
I would say yes that would explain it. Its not hard but you need some torx screwdrivers to remove the horn pad, then remove the steering wheel.... Do a search for DIY OBC hack and you'll find directions on removing the entire stalk assembly, This is the perfect opportunity to upgrade to the 4 stalk setup with the On Board Computer features on the dash if you currently have the 3 stalk (turn signal, Wiper, Cruise Control)
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Likely that the cancel pegs inside the stalk are broken off from a previous owner who held down the stalk in a left or right position while it was attempting to cancel thus snapping the plastic pegs which trigger the cancel.
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Missing Tire Wrench + Flat Tire
CJ_Boxster replied to DNK's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
If your uncle digs real deep into the porsche toolbag, he might find the anti-theft socket is in there, its a small socket that fits on the end of the standard lug wrench. Mine was deep inside the longest sleeve in the toolbag. Also have him check around the spare tire, like behind it incase the anti-theft socket rolled behind it. also the glove box and in the seat-back pockets. -
2000 C4 oil change
CJ_Boxster replied to Carrera's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Well you have to figure, 9 quarts of oil shouldnt break down and expire as quick as 5 quarts of oil would in the same engine. Non the less you are right about it feeling a bit too lengthy with the intervals, I usually hold out to 12k max. but usually change the oil, oil filter & crush washer every 10k miles. I think 10k is a good solid number, Plus buying 9 quarts every 3-5k miles would blow and be a waste of oil... -
You can try replacing the Fuel Filter, Not sure if that would help, it different with every car. My box had 100k miles on the original filter and didnt feel a difference when I replaced it... I did also replace the feul pump and that cleared up my low-rpm hesitation but i never had a problem with High-end until my MAS acted up. Maybe you can find someone in Atl Ga thats willing to let you barrow there MAF for a quick ride around the block to check if that clears up your hesitation issue, if so, you then would know that you need a MAF.
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Great! dont you just love your boxster all over again?
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UPDATE: Cleaned the MAF with Mass Airflow Sensor cleaner purchased from Pepboys, disconnected the battery for 15 seconds and the problem went away and all the power came right back. Im as happy as a seatle citizen on a sunny warm day.
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Did you call Suncoast porsche yet? did you get into an acident with your Cgt? pictures?
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Thanks for asking him for me ToolPants, to answer your question, Yes it Rev's up just fine during idle and under load while in gear. It feels like it has good power in the low RPM range until the RPM's hit 4000 rpm and then the torque stops and the rpm begin to climb like usual but work no torque.. Im going to try cleaning the MAF friday. If I were a Porsche ASE certified technician... Which im not, I would say that the MAF is not sending the correct voltage reading to the DME so the DME thinks more air is entering the intake than actually is, there for the DME is ordering up more feul than is needed.
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How long did it take for the new battery to be connected back into the car after the old one was disconnected?
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Thanks der Geist, I guess it feels odd to me cause i never really experienced this much power loss from disconnecting the battery before in this boxster. Is there maybe a old thread where someone discusses this that i could read over? i looked and found alot of other stuff but nothing relating close enough to my issue.
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UPDATE: no change after reconnecting battery after 1 hr. Im going to try using MAF cleaner on the MAF since it might be a coinsedence but it feel awfully similar to the time the MAF needed to be cleaned and the power instantly came back after the cleaning.
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I dont think its a one-way valve, when its open and the coolant cools, it will suck air back in the if the metal clip is in the up position. Ohhh sorry, i see what your saying, and i dont think its made that way cause if that were true, what would stop the coolant from flowing out with the air... plus if it did automatically expell air, it would cause lots of condensation in and around that area under the trunk lid.
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Well i disconnected my battery for more than 15 minutes before diving nose deep into a DIY repair for my horn. When i put everything back together and let the car idle for a bit, set my time and entered the radio code. I went for a drive and noticed that i have no pull/torque past 4000 RPMs. Is this normal, should the torque come back after a certain amount of miles? I drove more than 70 miles already and still not pull/torque past 4000 RPM range. The torque feels way to linear and flat, I feel nearly no g's when accelerating past 4000 rpm's. I did however forget that i left ignition on when i was working in the 2 torx screws to keep the steering lock disabled, Then reconnected the battery with the ignition in the ON position by accident... Could that have jacked something up? Right now, i just disconnected the battery, im going to let it sit for maybe 30-40 minutes and hopefully that clears anything stuff up.
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Window Setting
CJ_Boxster replied to PAULSPEED's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)
As far as i know, in the 996 and 986 the windows are not electronically height adjustable. Usually the windows will set there height by rolling up as high as they can go and when you open your door, the window will roll down a preset distance. Something like 1/2 to 3/4 of and inch, If its not lowering quick enough for you, you'r likely opening the door too fast for the window to retract and catches momentaraly on the trim. -
I noticed my drivers side brake light isnt working anymore, i changed the bulb and still nothing, all the parking lights and turn signal lights work except the brake light on the driver side tail-light. I also checked the contact points of the brake light socket and its snug and makes great contact.... Is there a common area of failure for the brake light wiring or am i going to have to fish around for a break in the wiring?
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Bruce, why do you want to replace it? cause its catching the window on the way down? if so, this is how i fixed it without replacing the seal... "I had that same problem with my drivers side window all the time on my boxster... I cured this by waxing the windows with "Turtle Wax Platinum Liquid Wax" its for waxing the body of the car. I waxed them up really good, even on the seal too cause the liquid wax wont stain black rubbers, the wax actually came off easy and made the seal look like i ArmerAll'd it. now the rubber seal just glides extra smooth against the window without catching and being pulled down. Guess the window gets rough enough to catch it on the way down. Anyway, problem solved."
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I had that same problem with my drivers side window all the time on my boxster... I cured this by waxing the windows with "Turtle Wax Platinum Liquid Wax" its for waxing the body of the car. I waxed them up really good, even on the seal too cause the liquid wax wont stain black rubbers, the wax actually came off easy and made the seal look like i ArmerAll'd it. now the rubber seal just glides extra smooth against the window without catching and being pulled down. Guess the window gets rough enough to catch it on the way down. Anyway, problem solved.
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should be right behind the 3rd brake light, when the clam shell raises, a little plastic arm will stick out and when the clamshell closes, it presses the plastic arm (switch) back down.
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The airbag light will need to be turned off with Durametric software or a PST2 once its triggered. As for the convertible top light not turning on when the top is in operation.... im lost on that one. might have something to do with the switch that the clam shall presses when its shut, try opening the top half way and tapping on it and moving the switch up and down... theres also a connector that does into it, make sure that connected... im talking the switch under the clam shell
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Nope thats about right, when it reaches that high you'll here the fans turn on then turn off after it lowers a bit, mine always climbs to that sitting in traffic, usually never on the freeway unless im speeding, bobbing and weaving on a long freeway run...like really working the high rpm range of the engine.
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likely that one or more sensors are not plugged in correctly or they damaged one or more of them during installation.
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FYI, wont work for Airbag lights, Hours of operation, rev limiter bounce counter & Stored p-codes.... Only Turns-off your CEL until the p-code triggers it, resets your clock on the dash, resets the radio and I think it makes the DME rethink the feul map settings....
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1. if your boxster is a 97, the passenger side does not come with auto-up only auto down. 2. if you removed the center console between the seats, you probably either forgot to plug the storage compartment lock assembly wire back onto the lock assembly underneath the center console between the seats. 3. If your airbag light was off prior to installing your seats, you probably disconnected the recepticle wires without disconnecting the battery and waiting 15 minutes. You'll have to have the factory buckles attached to the wiring for the airbag light to go away. If your using a 5 point harness, you will always hear the seatbelt warning chime unless you search the forum for the hack that disables the chime.... involves cutting 2 of the 4 wires on the recepticle. Also, you'll need someone with durametic software or a PST2 to turn off the airbag light.