rsfeller

You have to use some logic here of "why". There is no advantage to "starting" a car during the winter other then to charge the battery. Obviously to keep your battery alive you can do that with a trickle charger if needed. (note: my 4 year old battery survives every winter in Ohio w/o one charge in a cold storage garage). So if you feel compelled to start your car then the only reason you should go 20 minutes is to allow everything to get up to temperature inside the engine "stuff" so it burns off any water vapor which is obviously bad for a "sitting" system. Starting you car for 3 minutes will create condensation that never gets nuked as the engine never gets hot enough. So starting for short periods w/o getting up to temp is far worse then not starting at all. Now there is merit (especially in older car, hell any car) to driving it from time to time to keep grease (c/v joint for example) from drying out and other systems flexible and lubed. But well cared for cars really don't need that either. We all know a car runs better when driven regularly then when sitting with little attention...so that is why the "drive logic" prevails. Now before anyone jumps on here to challenge my logic about the engine keep in mind where we live our boats (from 12 footers to twin engine 1000hp go fasts) sit all winter in cold and warm storage here in Ohio w/o being started. Of course they are winterized which only means the fluids were changed and that fogging oil is dropped in the carborator. Those with FI go w/o. My boat is 22 years old and that is how it lived it's entire life...winterized, fogged and parked in a cold garage and those twin 351 Ford blocks start the first time...every time. I do pull the 3 deep cycle and 2 starting batteries and keep them in my warm garage and trickle charge them from time to time. Now some tires will develop flat spots from setting all winter. I would suspect softer the compound (or cheaper the tire?) the more likely this is true. I have both cheap and soft (Kumho) tires and every spring the flat spot drives out in 2 minutes on the road. Older tires will obviously not "snap back" as well. You are better off to block a car to take pressure off the tires but that is not easy on a low car. Additionally a reduction in stress on struts can make them fail (I have heard)...I think the logic is that an unloaded strut can lose some gas? Not sure about that one... Change fluids and park it is my theory.

I don't know that one nor have I seen it mentioned here but looking the features it just appears to be a laptop based obd2 scanner (although advanced) with some real time driving logging options. This may be useful for other cars in the fleet as the durametric is only for porche's but again...you'll get "real time" values of system such as HVAC, sensor values, and real time graphing of those functions. If you want one just for your Porsche I am sure Durametric is the right choice. Not sure how car savvy you are but reading both websites should point out the obviously solution for your needs.

Durametric is all you need for codes, system values and resetting many systems. There is tons of info here, a good website and the developer (Duram) answers questions quickly and updates and improves based on suggestions and requests! Cannot say enough...there is no other solution unless you have big money for a pst2 or know Loren personally!

Finally had time to research my stiff 5 speed shifter concern. It has a very stiff left/right motion and doesn't return to "N" in the middle without help. Most cars will snap back to the center when you don't have the car in gear and when one moves the shift left and right and let go. It's progessively got stiffer w/o a mechanical binding feel over the last two years. Many suggested replacing the shifter as the plastic bushings can deteriorate and dry up. Sounded like a plan and who doesn't want a shortshifter, so I went that route... with no success (but I did get a short shifter out of the project!)... So maybe a binding (or kinked) cable you say? So I took off the bottom pan (under transmissoin) to access the linkage and took the left/right shifter socket (to cable) off the linkage ball (on bracket). Here is what I noticed: 1. If you move the linkage (with the cable off it) it will return to center but not all the way, it's most likly a weak return at best. Not stiff just not a quick or complete return. 2. If you move the shifter left/right with the cable off the linkage it moves like butter. no binding or concerns that concern me. 3. When you put it all back together (even after some wd30 on all piviot points) it a bit stiff again and will not return to center! Not any better... Questions: 1. Is there a spring IN the transmissions that gives the shifter the "snap" to move the left/right linkage back and forth to netural? 2. I think there would be! If there is has anyone seen them fail? 3. Can the cable feel smooth like butter (when off linkage joint) but still be enough friction to drag on system w/o me thinking it's the issue? 4. Could this just be a weak tranny return spring, rusty pivots and ball joints combines with a slightly less perfect cable to equal up to a crappy left/right shift? If you look at my photos you can see some corrosion from just driving my car a dozen times over the last two winters in Ohio with salt (and a rinse!). No question the salt is to blame with the corrosion. There may also be a crack or minor portion of the left/right cable boot missing, but as I stated i moves like butter (or maybe it doesn't...how do I know for sure what tension it should be!). I've replaced boat shifter, throttle and steering cables before...I know what a bad cable can feel and look like for a boat. I hate to spend $300 on a cable and it not be the issue and a $100 used one could have the same friction. All this would be moot if it's simply the fact a spring inside the transmission has lost it's "zip" and I'll have to learn to live with it no returning to center...as I'm not rebuilding a transmission just for such a concern. Let me here your ideas? How rusty do these look compared to yours?

Patience is the trick. Mine were just as messed up when I aquired my used 986. I took the time to get them all spaced and connected with the vertical braces and they have stayed in place w/o an issue for 3 years.

I"m pulling the shift cables off the linkage to see if my bind is the cables or something else. Best I can tell from Bentley is one should just shove two screw drivers between the bracket arm (ball) and the socket arm. But I'm not having any luck but feel I'm about to bend the ball bracket arm. I also have a forked screw driver that it's in between the assmeble (ball/socket) with a small bend not unlike a mini crowbar. No dice either. Is there a special tool or puller (that would not fit in that area anyways) or do you just keep bending and cussing until something gives? This seems to be the simplest task that just will not give on any of the linkage ball and sockets. Shawn

Looking at a procedure in Bentley and it makes reference to those cars built before and after 4.21.97 and although I can decode the vin there appears to be no reference to month. Obviously there is a label some defining build day/month? Shawn

I was crawling around under the car tonight trying to figure out my linkage issues. I noted where the trans (5 speed) meets the engine (2.5L) there is a lot of dirty oil caking up on the right side of those two items on the passenger side. I don't see any signs of RMS as I expect that to be dead center of the shaft location. I also do not see any drips, just caked on dirt/oil that I can scape off with my finger. What sources are on that side? Shawn

I am trying to access my 5 speed linkage at the tranny to determine if my cables are at fault for stiff shifts. To get access to the linkage on the passenger side there is a plate in the way. Bentley (34-3) defines this as the chassis reinforcement plate. I thought this was nothing more then a skid plate, but this name makes me think it does some supporting I may not see. Regardless can I remove this plate with what appears to be 8 bolts with 4 that attach at the aluminum diagonal braces w/o having to remove the braces? I am hoping those two bolts when removed will allow the plate to slide out of the way.C Can someone confirm this before I start. I have the car on ramps at home since my lift at work is not available. There is not much room if I get thrown a curve to correct anything. I just want to make sure that plate is not supporting any weight. It's amazing two see what two winters in Ohio can do to a clean car from Florida. I couldn't get the salt off it last year and it has paid the toll! I do not even drive this car in the winter unless there is an emergency (and there way) and you can see the salt deposits everywhere!

I do not know of another wheel personally but there has to be some momo non-airbag options that racers use. I assume you are racing based on your comment, correct? Otherwise I really don't understand you comments for daily driving. I am 6ft 1inch and fit just fine at 230lbs. I do feel the roll-over hoop is very dangerous which has been discussed on this list. Sounds like they did a better job with the 987, so you should have done some research before buying!

I have seen no kits specific to the 986 but a few have done it by hand with other kits designed for BMW. The miata owners have done their own to, but they have a zip type window. My boat canvas guy did it nice enough to get me another two summers out of it before I needed a new top. But I also pulled the top/frame off for him so he could bench it. It only takes 30 minutes to take the frame/top off with no ill effects, goes right back on easily with no adjustment needs.

We'll I know the answer to my following question, but I'll amuse myself anyways! You still do not have a Bentley Manual for your Porsche? How about the Durametric software? Get on it now, bust out the credit card, and get going...you want to be a Porsche DIY'r and you need this reference materials as much as you need this website! You should at least have a borrowed copy of the P-Tech manuals by now in all your Porsche down time! I only mention this as you all your answers are there. Location, access, procedure, ect Now I have not done this job but the Bentley makes it to be a decent DIY job. Maybe another with experience can clairfiy but it does say to remove the AC compressor. And although I have not done that either, AC compressors require a evac of refrigerant of a perfectly good system (boo!). I have seen P-tech manuals (and other dealer items) state items need removed to get at another and have been wrong...but Bentley usually doesn't tell you to remove things that can be avoided. Other then that it appears to be a typical PSP removal. You need to remove the front service cover to see the belt structure and location of the pump. It's up top and across of the alternator. Was this the sound you thought was possibly a secondary air pump, or am I crossing my posts? Send me a private message and I'll send you a document you may want.

****, that what I meant. Have we seen failures on these? If so not related to the 46 codes of course, but there own unique codes?

Something doesn't seem right with that quote considering a Porsche dealer should be retailing a DME for $2000+. Is this ECU quoted unique only the SRS system (which I don't see on the parts list)?

dealer = BS You have to understand there are to many high dollar P-owners who will pay it regardless, so they can get away with it. I have not read on any of the boards anyone having ECU issues in regard to airbag concerns. When I first bought my 1997 with the same errors my durametric reset worked about 1 year to the day before I upgraded the buckles to solve the CEL when the error returned. Still running the factory ECU... Find an indie, avoid the dealer...

I wouldn't be the one to stick out my head and see yes on this, but it sure seems posible! This starter is known to stick/drag and cause a funny sound when starting. I know becuase mine does it when cold. So any failure trend is posible and I have heard (with other cars) people talk about starter-run-on. I would guess from the amps being pulled it would over heat and burn-out but that is just a guess. One reason they tell you never to run a starter very long is due to this reason. So I would guess you would have killed it or the wiring (melted it) by now from the amps. As you may know one is usually looking for 13+ volts when car is running with low system draw so the VR still sounds like the most likely cause but that unique sound needs to be figured out!

It can be very hard to determine what side a sound is really coming from on any car when you are in the driver seat. I have had many a wheel bearing behind me or a C/V or inner driver perplex me up front. I did feel the secondary air pump was most likly not the issue, they are so loud and noticable with the top down and usually work like they should or don't work at all. I am not sure where you live, how much you drive the car and if other factors may play into it but due check your battery connections before passing judgment. Make sure the terminals are clean on the battery Inspect the connections at the altnerator too (salty area can do major damage) How old is your battery? Keep in mind it's easier to pull a battery and run it up to FLAPS then the alternator and since I have been lurching on this site I have seen many a battery failure and fewer alternators. The battery run downs on these cars seems to have a bigger effect on systems then other cars I have driven. Now with all that said have you driven you car around and then come back and check the voltage at idle? Is it still 11.x? Also keep in mind that 90% of all voltage regular failures (I have seen) tend to occur with low voltage. I think I had one boat that went the other way and was running 18.x volts before we noticed it! Luckily it did not damage any systems or toss and fuses or wires. I was asking if the VR was internal or external on these alternators as I have seen seen a few posters mention bad VR (but not failed alternators) and was wondering if the VR can be removed with the alternator still in.

Jim, Are you sure you know the sound of this item? I only question your concern as my is very noticeable when running and there would be no mistaking it and not just a notice when it is "winding down". I see you questioned on the other post about voltage the time Nexus's car died. Are you concerned about your power output and battery? Do you have a reason to be concerns? My experience is that below 2800rpm there is still sufficient voltage generated to charge the system and offset lights, stereo and electric cooling fans. I doubt the SAP out "amps" the fans when the AC is on. I am curious to what other concerns you have in regard to the voltage? Also, if the SAP is truly running I would suspect the MAF if I understand it's purpose correctly. (correct me if I"m wrong here). Looking at the info Loren supplied the system most likely to fail here is the all to common MAF. Are you experiencing any dead spots in your power band? (early signs of MAF concerns from what I read).

They can fail as my system has error codes referring to them that doesn't interfere with the rest of the sytem nor trigger the two beep warning. The alarm system is covered in general detail in your manual. It discussed how to disengage the motion detection (leaving dog in car was the example) but I cannot recall if you have to turn it back on, or if it goes back to general alarm the next time, you'll have to read up. If you don't have a manual let us know. There are options to get you in the information.

They could have hardwired a single line for that much. There are several dismantlers that specialize in Porsches but they will most likly not have a whole harness, but it's worth a try. Check out Mike Focke's site, I think he lists the common ones. Otherwise try the site sponsor (sunset imports). First get the part number you need, and check the retail price check on the site her to make sure they are not hosing you...then get the quote from Sunset. Since it's at the P-Dealer they won't allow you your own parts though, usually. If you got the money go for it, but the DIY car builder in me says get an expert to run their own wire. they should be ashamed it took that much money and time to figure this out and it's not a sure thing still. But that is what dealers do best. Did they do a flow test? Did they check the amperage of the circuit? What answers have they given you? Are they just guessing at this point because they don't know?

so was the VR internal or external?

I just got a similar problem fixed on my 1999. It was the shift shaft plug on the RH side aft and above the axle output on the transmission. You problem seems similar enough to what I was experiencing to warrant a look. I thought it was an adjustment also until it started to leak. If it is the culprit, re-torque after applying some lock-tite. So far, so good for mine. Good Luck. Ha! I was looking EZ Aire's post to give this guy as a consideration with fluid concerns! The fact that it appears to go away after the car warms that makes me think it is not the cables. But to answer his question, yes the center console needs to come up and the two cables are right there. They lift out of locking sleves and you simply move them up or down a thread at a time until shifing concerns improve. Look at this write up for how to pull the cover and find the cables. Since it's the short shift procedure it doesn't cover adjusting those cables, but it's as easy as I state. Mark here you start with some white out and go a step each way. When I reassembled system after install a short shifter I was off about two thread which made getting into R very difficult. Two thread is all it took. Link: http://www.turbo911.com/showthread.php?p=1...linear#post1714

Glad to hear it was only the VR. Did the alternator come out to figure this out or is the VR external on the alternator?

We'll I just did a cheapo-knock off. If you have not seen my rant about the process you can find it on my website: http://www.carboncow.net/index.php?option=...7&Itemid=85 Since I bought a cheapo and had a fun time installing it my end result could still be far different then those buying $300+ versions. I would say the shift has been reduced dramatically. I should measure it but I'm at work right now. I am guessing the shift distance has been reduced from 8 inches of travel 4" easily...but it is considerably more "notchy". As much as that notchy had me concerned at first testing it in the garage the concern went away on the road. I believe the feel of the short travel makes up for the notchy concern. My wife didn't complain about it, and that is saying something! She hates any change on our cars...it's always for the worst in her opinion. Since the shifter from the factory is lacking in feel and travel length...it's a great improvement. I am quite sure the el-cheapo-knock-off is the exact same shaft length as the B&M, as that is who this stole the design from. I will guess your experience will be the same as mine unless you buy the brand name and skip the modifications I had to make.

I'm in Ohio so not to far away! PCA is by regions: http://www.pca.org/regions/ to find out who is in charge to recommend anyone in the area. I cannot recall if their site has a indie listing. Loren has a forum here for recommendations but it really hasn't been populated by members with indie shops. I may be missing another posting area though. I would start a new thread specifically asking for any recommendations in your area.