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mrmickeymouse

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Everything posted by mrmickeymouse

  1. I have both clicks, but still no go. Scott
  2. Be different, don't worry about the memory. Hook your adjustments up to the center console, utilizing the unused buttons. Run power and a relay and presto totally electric seats [need to be creative with your wiring.] Is it worth that though, is your right hand that lazy, maybe you have the Dr. Strangelove disease, then have someone do it immediately...
  3. If voltage is needed , it seems it would be prudent to check continuity from the "Red Post" to the switch, to see if it truly directly connected. If not, maybe a voltage eater [who knows], may be why adding voltage does not "Pop" the switch. The problem may be that the vehicle sense's low voltage and isolates parts of the vehicle to maintain some voltage, in the areas it considers important. There may be a work around. Just my two cents.
  4. I believe you need to forget the electronics and take an actual reading via dipstick. If you rely on electronics, you could bring a fast demise to your motor. Scott
  5. I checked into it, and supposedly it needs to have a stamp on it, stating it passed "California Air Resources Board" [CARB.] My question is how are they [smog guy's] going to get down there to look for it, I don't know about you, but your lucky if they open the engine compartment. Unless they put it on a lift, there is no filling station "smogger" who has any idea what to look for under the Boxster. The only thing that would "Rat" on you would be the OBD II. :rolleyes: IMO- If you pretest and pass you should be good to go. Scott
  6. Are the tanks rubbing through on something or what do you think is causing the holes. TIA Scott
  7. Vinegar will do wonders on all windows, house, car, etc. It is somewhat acetic and will dissolve water spots, try it in your bathroom inner shower door first, it should make it bright and shiny. Scott
  8. This may help you understand your problem: http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/tech9-03-2003.htm Scott
  9. This may help: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=33644 Scott
  10. :help: Can anyone tell me the difference between the two, it seems you can see directly through the stock cat; the "100" cell cat [sport cat] has a honeycomb arrangement which seems more restrictive. I have found an aftermarket cat which has a small screen for an obstruction and a clear shot through. What could be better for flow.... Maybe I am missing something... It seems the easier it is to get out, the faster you can accelerate. Is it really necessary to have back pressure, you will alway's have some due to the muffler, but how much in pounds. TIA Scott
  11. Maybe you could post some Pic's of what you are doing; before and after. Thanks, Scott
  12. What do you mean without the "inner material"; do you mean metal pieces, fabric or ? A good upholsterer would be your best bet, I see tops for sale on E bay all the time. If they can get it off, you can get it on.
  13. This may help: http://www.autoatlanta.com/model/986catalog.html "Boxster Body" on the right hand side, second from the bottom. Scott
  14. Here you go: http://www.whiteson.org/boxster/mods/obc/obc.stalk.pdf Scott
  15. I have done exactly what you mentioned the dealer doing, I lubricated and drifted the pin out. You may want to cut around the paint that holds the drift, an X-acto knife would work well. Scott
  16. How do you get water into that area to begin with, I never get water in that area unless I am washing that area. Check this link out: http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/200...r_bath04-03.htm
  17. You have an intermittent short, does it short depending on acceleration or maybe turning right or left. It seems the wire is grounding somewhere. Maybe Tool pants can tell you if the parking brake system lighting/wiring is on the same circuit as the brake fault system. It seems the wire is swinging back and forth.
  18. That is where I went, they told me that lexan was not feasible due to the extensive bending; that is where the high price comes in. Acrylic/plexiglass was my only option. I have been conducting the scientific hand test on the stock cover under our current conditions, and the lid does not even get warm, it seems cool to the touch with the insulator removed. I believe.. I have found an alternate method for the lid screw downs; the engine compartment rim gold clips [per Porsche that's what they call them - go figure] That was my only hang up, what to use for the 2 back [sic] clips. Scott
  19. I owe it to you, thank you, your idea and information motivated me to this point. My only dilemma is the temp, I have to figure the temperature range. Cold is easy but high temps will decide what type of glass I have to use. BTW - they say copying is the best form of flattery. Thank you, Scott
  20. I plan on making some plexiglass engine cover's for the Boxster model to cover the entire engine and not just a window. The cost will be be considerable to start. I would like to take a poll from the members as to who would be interested in the cover. It will cost me approximately $450.00 -$500.00 dollars to make them. If it becomes popular [enough people want them], I have talked the fabricators into a cheaper price TBD. The expensive part will be me configuring/ finding some attachment screws or clips. I found out the original screws will not work on the rear most portion of the lid. So before I put a few grand into the idea, I would like an idea of it's need or popularity. I will of course offer Renn tech forum members a special price. Can anyone tell me of the engine "Area" temperature. Under normal driving conditions in the southern states during the summer with the engine cover on. I have added a picture of what your engine can look like after an hour of sponge cleaning carefully. [it is still dirty]
  21. Check this out: http://216.242.145.9//shop//product.phtml?p=198 It may work..... Scott
  22. Information that may help some Renn Tech users.... http://www.pcasdr.org/tech/index.html
  23. 97 Boxster- You might have trouble pulling upwards due to the return cable [pulling down]. Believe me - DO NOT pull on the peddle thinking it has a press fit on the lower portion. It is held in by a long screw running the width [along the bottom] It also has approximately 4 screws holding the assembly [gas pedal] together. If you pull on the pedal and not the whole unit you will pull the flimsy hinge apart, and then you will be in a world of hurt. You will need to disassemble the gas peddle in a space meant for gnomes. You will need to be creative and screw it onto the base of the peddle to retain it in a controllable flex versus a floppy peddle. I have not tracked down the return cable location, but it is somewhere under the floor pan. I will leave that identification to Loren or Tool pants.
  24. I know what you mean, so some come bonded and some don't. Ok... I thought it was something special. Thank you, Scott
  25. Do you have any pictures, so I could tell the difference, as to prevent myself from buying the wrong one. Thanks,
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