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PAULSPEED

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Everything posted by PAULSPEED

  1. Here is a link to car numbers. I have used the magnetic numbers on the doors. The magnetic ones do not stick to the hood. I always install clear masking tape to the leading edge of the magnetic number. The number removes easy after the event and I peel off the masking tape from the sign and/or door if it splits when removing. http://clubregistration.net/products/index.cfm?category=Vinyl%20Numbers The vinyl ones work good on the hood. Paul
  2. Just checked and the last Porsche plugs I bought were Bosch. Paul
  3. I do not remember what the gap is. I always ask for the gap when I buy them. All plugs are fine but I perfer NGK 1st overall. I have to look to see what plugs I last bought for the Porsche. Paul
  4. Here is a picture. Part 2 is the motor and part 4 drives something. I think your windows work with an electric motor but there is the hydraulic pump also in the picture. Someone with more knowledge might know what drives the small windows up and down. Good luck. Paul
  5. Rennsport 4 is this October 14, 15 and 16. Hope to see you there. http://zone77.org/ Paul Zone 7 Webmaster GGR - Vice President
  6. I would phone Phil at Sunset Imports. 1-800-346-0182 Maybe he could give you some good advice. Paul
  7. The code would suggest that the wire fell of the connector for the motor. I find this hard to believe because Porsche connectors are some of the hardest connectors to take apart. Paul
  8. The part number for the motor is on the bottom of the motor and should be easy to see. Paul
  9. Maybe if you bought part number 22 in this picture it might help you out. Paul
  10. I start out driving on the track with the pressure 2 psi lower on all four wheels. After your first session you will see higher pressures unless your tires are filled with nitrogen. Drop to the 35 psi/45 psi for your next session. Go to Radio Shack and buy a $20.00 surface temperature gage. Measure the temperatures across. Try to get the same across. Fill up the tires before leaving the track. Paul
  11. You might want to drill a hole and install a pop revit. Then you can always drill out the pop revit should you want to remove the panels. A few pictures would help. Paul
  12. This should help you take the door apart. http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/7-door-micro-switch/ Paul
  13. I saw the strut tower bolts in the sharkwerks diy. Glad things worked out for you. Paul
  14. At least there might be a universal joint in the front axle. This is an old picture of a 996 car. I do not have a 997 4 drive on my computer. Most universals are held in with circle clips but I have heard of pressed in universals on less expensive cars. I have taken universals apart which is somewhat easy but it is much harder putting a new one in. Paul
  15. You should not do this. The car has wheel spin sensors connected to the computer that removal of the front axles could mess your car up. To removal the axle you will need to dis-connect one or more of the a-arms so you swing the wheel carrier out of the way. Here is a picture of the axle. Paul
  16. Sorry to hear about your windshield. Your car does not have much flex for being such a light car. I would talk to a window expert when you have your window replaced. The window is expensive but not as expensive as a Ferrari or Lamborgini window. Good luck. Paul
  17. I just drove the car 90 miles with the wing up and then 90 miles without touching the wing button. The wing is now down. go figure. Paul
  18. I saw the 110 at the racetrack but I used the 102 racing fuel that was unleaded. Paul
  19. Well I replaced the motor with lots of pictures. The wing is not working right. I had the wing all the way up and just swapped motors. It likes only goes down about half way. Looks like I need to remove the motor, drop the wing by hand and put motor back on. Any advice? Paul
  20. I would find a speed shop that sells racing fuel. Some race tracks sell racing fuel. Aviation motors are made for lead fuel to keep them from knocking. Paul
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