Glyn

They wont be disconnected just that you have the seat powered back into the bulkhead with some force - the catches will not be releasing unless you can ease the force, suggest getting another person to apply force to the seat back at the midway point and whilst force is being applied then pull the lever - this should assist the catches to release

Right, read your other post. Does your seat not have the quick release lift ups either side of the back rest? Both my Boxsters had these though i have not had the full electric seats so i guess there could be a difference, Lift them up and the seat tilts forward - enough to remove the inspection panel and to get at the securing bolts that hold the seat in place

You dont mention the idle speed control valve being cleaned, however if the idle is stable i guess you can rule that out. Check the engine mountings just in case you have a broken or soggy one, if they are soft it will amplify any irregularity and create a shake. You can continue to drive the car as it is without causing any damage so its safe to delay spending money at the moment. The likely thing is the clutch plate, it may be at the end of its life and slightly distorted or indeed contaminated with oil, when you slip the clutch it tends to grab and release causing judder, what is it like if you lift off the clutch at tickover, no additional revs and slip the clutch in slowly to reverse? I mentioned the dual mass flywheel simply because this type of flywheel has two parts with a spring that applies pressure between the two parts - as you engage drive the spring takes up the initial drive to ensure smooth gear changes (not quite as simple as this but it aids the explanation) If you are handy with a spanner and know someone who can assist, then you will save big time, may as well change the RMS whilst your at it (will have to change it if the clutch plate is contaminated with oil) Good luck

This is likely to be the clutch or the dual mass flywheel. The gearing for reverse is very low therefore the torque at the wheels is much greater than any forward gear (You cant do the same speed for revs in reverse than you can in first gear) This will then mean slight fluctiations in revs produces a pronounced surge in torque at the wheels which in turn gives the effect of shaking. Before completly blaming the clutch/flywheel ensure your tickover is stable, that with aircon engaged there is no hunting etc, the smoother the engine runs the less opportunity for surging. You model has the idle speed control valve, this could be sticking, or the throttle body needs a good clean (Do you have fluctuating idle) If you have not cleaned the throttle or the idle speed control valve then start here - always do the least expensive fix first - take it to a garage and they are likely to swap the clutch & flywheel just because it makes a few bucks You will find instructions on the cleaning in the forum Good luck

Before changing the compressor i would check the condition of the polyrib belt, this may just be worn and a little loose through stretching. When you engage the compressor there is quite a resistance to turning, a loose belt will cause the slip and of course the friction will induce heat - hence the burning smell. Clearly you will need to change the belt anyway so i would do this first, correctly tension the belt and try it again. Secondly if you know you were low on refrigerant - which also contains a lubricant for the compressor it could be that you are completely drained of refrigerant and that the compressor through heat is trying to sieze up, however when low on pressure in the air con system the compressor should not engage as it has a pressure sensor- however this sensor could be faulty and allowing the compressor to drive without gas/lubricant. Get the system regassed then change the belt and try it out again, You could be right about the compressor being knackered and of course if you regass then you will need to pay again for another regass when the compressor is changed, but it is unusuall for a compressor to fail and the cost of a compressor is high

This is a dead easy Job which should take a complete novice no more than 8 cups of tea (4hrs) Remove the front bumper, take out the side indicators as you have one screw behind each side that holds the bumper on - plus a few underneath the front valance (about 8 IIRC) and three under the plastic cover where the front boot latches. Once the bumper is removed you will find a plastic cowling over the front of the condensor, remove the cowling (4 screws) Undo the air con gas pipes (One bolt) disconnect the the condensor from the radiator then re-build. I cant remember exactly how the condensor is attached to the radiator - i think it is two locating dowls and two screws on the outer side of the condensor - Its a couple of years ago when i did mine. Either way it really is a piece of ***** job, All you will need is a mobile air con to regass the system. The dryer is next to the battery, right hand side as you look at the car from the front, but in honesty i wouldnt bother changing that When youve done one you can do the other in just over an hour.

AS Loren said. The sensors are not sensors in the way most of us would view a sensor. All it is is a wire that has a bit of plastic stuck onto the end, this end pushes into the brake pad, when the pads wear the disc wears through the plastic and once the disc makes contact with the wire it allows the circuit to earth, Earthing the wire activates the light. As has been said, disconnect one wheel at a time and check the light, when it goes out you will know where the problem is, simply find where the cable is going to earth and you will have fixed the problem

I have just had the same fault code for the post Cat sensor. The durametric software detailed the fault, i e-mailed Durametric for their evaluation of the fault, this is their reply:- Here is a recap for the fault P0139 on Motronic 7.2 is a fault that indicates the measurement of the 02 sensors voltage may no longer be accurate. This fault is triggered when certain conditions, give a reading from the 02 sensor that is out of range. Function The diagnosis function is responsible for checking the voltage position of the sensor after the catalytic converter. This happens in 2 areas: 1. After 5 seconds of the deceleration phase, the sensor voltage must be less than 0.1 V. 2. If the sensor voltage remains above or below 0.6 V for longer than 80 seconds, the mixture is made lean or enriched → the voltage must change. Diagnosis conditions – Air flow rate from 25 to 120 kg/h – Oxygen sensing after TWC is active – Basic adaptation has reached steady condition – No secondary air diagnosis – No fuel tank ventilation diagnosis – EVAP canister not highly loaded – No fault in EVAP canister purge valve, fuel tank ventilation system, secondary air injection, oxygen sensor heating after TWC, rpm/crankshaft position sensor and fuel supply system Trobleshooing steps show to clear the fault code then road test the vehicle, if the fault code returns then replace the sensor.

The clunking in neutral was because the car was being towed therefore this does support a final drive problem (shaft/CV). The gearbox and diff are pretty bullet proof and to fail there would have been some tell tale signs for quite some time - which you do not mention.

This is likely to be the final drive, CV joint or shaft, would doubt this is inside the gearbox, the "clunking" does suggest the CV

Dan, best of luck. If you have the Durametric software you could hook it up to the car and it will tell what triggered the CEL. You can also switch of individual injectors so you will be able to track down the offending cylinder. The car would not run so well if there was anything seriously wrong, This just a minor thing, though when you go on forums there are so many people without a clue about an engine they simply grab at anything so it always sounds very serious as you dont know their level of expertise. Im not having a go at those without a clue its just that their input clouds the issues.

I dont believe any of the diagnosis so far, though i must conceed the valve problem does seem to be on the right track. You describe everything as normal up to the stop at the lights, no knocking, smoking, and you have not identified any tell tale signs in the run up to this in the preceeding few weeks - engines dont just let go at idle. If a valve was bent it could only get bent by the piston comming into contact with the valve and that is only possible if the big end shells fell out - which they cant, to contact a valve either the valve has to stay open when the piston rises or the travell of the piston needs to be further - like taking a big end shell out of the housing so the con rod pushes further, or you have reved the engine so high that the valves bagan to bounce - you would know if you have done this and probably have heard this happen - So i would discount that theory. The car has done 94000 miles, so my guess would be that carbon build up on a piston has become dislodged and has jammed itself around the exhaust valve leaving the valve poorly sealing, this would cause the misfire though i dont believe this would trigger the CEL, but perhaps it would as a poor seal would affect induction and ignition and perhaps this would be noticable to the oxygen sensors in the exhaust (others may be able to confirm this) Personally i would simply remove the head on that bank and have a poke around, after all you've nothing to loose as currently you have a knackered engine, take it apart and find nothing and you still have a knackered engine so you loose just a little time. Alternatively, the diagnosis for cylinder 6, i dont believe the problem then could shift to num 5, I suspect a coil problem with cylinder 6 (try swapping coil 5 and 6 over to see what the diagnosis then indicates) with a sticking valve on 5, i think your problem is minor and you dont need a new engine - though obviously for the garage its very profitable to fit one. The coil on six with a lower compression of 5 probably identified the problem, indeed you may have had a low compression for some time but failed to notice it and only when cylinder 6 was taken out as well did it become obvious. Whatever you find do tell us all Glyn

HID is the true name of the type of lamps = Hight Intensity Discharge Litronic = THis is what Porsche call them - a made up name Zenon= This is the gas the bulb if filled with Spoof Zenons = 55W to 100Watts halogen type bulb with a glowing element but instead of halogen gas they fill them with Zenon for mugs to buy thinking they have the real thing at a bargain price (Avoid these at all costs especially the 100Watters as they will discolour and melt your lenses if stationary for any time with headlights on

As with all computers - first stop reboot it, which in car terms disconnect the battery then reconnect - it will all be fine. All this is is the logic circuits becoming confused, power off then power on allows the eproms to reconfigure the processors

HID conversion in full Remove both headlight units Take cover of back of units (clips off) Remove halogen bulb Connect the cable that used to go to the bulb to the connection on the ballast unit Double sided tape or velcro the ballast unit to the clip off cover you took off earlier Fit new HID bulb into place Connect output from balast unit to bulb And thats it Just add beers

You must have more money than sense. Nothing very special about the litronics but i can see why you would want HID. Get a HID kit and spend an hour on the car fitting it - few beers etc and make a fun day. Being lazy and letting someone fit your lights is like getting an electrician in to change a light bulb.

aftermarket HID is surely the way to go, cheap as chips, dead easy to fit, the kits come complete with all bits and ballast and instructions. You get the H7 HID bulb, almost three times brighter and last the life of your car, Sure you can save a bit by just replacing with standard bulbs but why? HID looks better, 6K gives you a tinge of blue 8K a lot of blue, see better at night, be seen easier, only draw 35 watts so lowers the strain on your battery/alternator. Those that burn the lenses are usually the 100 watt bulbs - they burn so hot, plus many people leave their headlights on when stationary in traffic jams - which allows the heat to buid up as no cooling air is passing over the lens

So unless the disk was taken out and damaged it should work now - unless there is a read fault. Have you tried a disk head cleaner in the drive unit? Failing that remove the drive and if you are brave open the unit up and try cleaning the laser with a soft brush. - Dust can settle on the laser causing the light to defract - in turn this prevents the laser reading the section of the disk - May be a long shot but what have you got to loose - you have a broken nav and if the cleaning doesnt work you still have a broken Nav but can continue to expolre alternatives.

Wasnt going to reply but i just couldnt resist Juniinc, No offence but i did think the head gasket was going to the very serious end of the scale, and yes i know they can and do go, but if the heater was working perfectly one day when the car was parked up then nothing the next then this will be the first head gasket to blow when cold. I do have a tiny bit of experience of engines as my trade was a motor vehicle mechanic many years ago. I agree there are many reasons for no heat but start with the no cost checking options, then the low cost options, move towards the more intensive options if all else fails. The Porsche is a wonderfull motor, but this marque also has very high costs for spares and mainly drivers are just that drivers - not automotive experts, Nothing puts more fear into a driver than the thought of a repair bill on the Porsche, we all know drivers that are running their cars on a tight budget and thoughts of head gaskets must be a terrifying thought when asking "How much" I just had to come back to the head gasket though - It is more likely if the gasket is blown to boil up the car as heat from the cylinders escapes into the water jackets - of course after boiling up and the water level sufficiently reduced then the heater would go cold - but i just think the owner may notice this and have reported this in the initial write up --which he didnt. Honestly i have never seen a car run cold on the heater when a head gasket has blown - always the boil up. I guess the proof of the pudding is in the eating - we await the final diagnosis and rectification points

They all say "deactivated" if you dont have a route live, simply enter an address. Your problem must be with the copy disk unless you know for sure the system has worked with this disk - I believe the copy protection system will not allow copies to function even though the data has been written to it.

Do you have air con, and is this manual or automatic? This problem could really be something so simple as a flap not working. Cant believe the comment about head gasket- why do some people always look for the most serious problem

From a Brit point of view we would consider that a bit low, but when you consider your gallons are smaller than ours and i assume you are talking American gallons i dont think that is a dissapointing figure. Especially when we Brits know all of you are on the large size ;) And you were probably carrying your lunch with you :clapping:

You would be better off just purchasing a stand alone system, All the Porsche systems are complete rubbish, and overpriced rubbish too. The system on my late 2002 is PCM1 16 bit and can use the 2007 Opel Maps, you need to check to see if you have 8 or 16 bit system, if your 8 bit then there are no updates, no support - zilch - Just buy a stand alone. You can check if you are 8 or 16 bit by having a look at the rear of the PCM drive, If you have part number 996.642.122.00, 01, 02 = 8 bit, 03 to 12 then 16 bit. If 16 bit then the Vauxhall/Opel NCDR disk will work, check your software version number by holding the AC screen button in and also press the scroll knob at the same time. I am told you need version 5.43 and PONA 643D, however a seperate disk besides the latest maps can be purchased to upgrade the software version before putting the map disk in

It sounds like you have the right amount. Naturally people would pack grease until the boot is full, but its not necessary, providing the boot is undamaged then the grease quantity will be right, the grease is supplied in a plastic bag type of applicator, cut it and sqeeze it in and around the bearings, you dont need a lot

Lateral free play is common and indeed necessary with drive shaft and CV joints. As the car suspension moves up and down so the length of the driveshaft needs to change this is achieved by allowing the play you describe. All shafts of this type of constuction must do it, i guess you havnt noticed it before. If you overpack grease when it heats up and expands it will either split the boot up push it off. The buzz must be something else, joints when badly worn will produce a cracking noise