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fastboydave

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Everything posted by fastboydave

  1. Same symptoms as mine when my battery died. Your alarm will probably go off soon.......
  2. Yep, all sounds spot on to me, nice job! Mine seemed to be worse on roof strangely enough, but there will be obviously more 'dirt' at bottom of screen as thats where the windscreen wipers 'push' dirty water when you wash/wipe the screen.
  3. Doesnt need to be "methalated spirits", soapy water will do or something that 'disolves' crap. The silicon grease/oil is the key and let it 'soak' for a while before you wipe off the excess. Remember, this wont last forever and will undoubtedly have to be done again in a few months. But this is exactly what the UK OPC's do to cure 'windscreen creaks' (due to this issue) but will charge us an hour or two labour for the honour! Glad i could help some of you.......... Dave.
  4. Still think its air or bad cylinder(s). As you use it, you tend to pump the air out if there's a leak, so it does improve, its like pumping your brakes when you've lost pedal. Incidentally, check your brake fluid reservoir is at max, as thats the same fluid i believe if it look low, you definately have a leak. I'll send you a message with the guys details and website. Dave.
  5. When i had my accumulator go (on my 996TT) the pedal went slack and the bite was on the floor. The pedal would also stick half way (as you describe). As i used it the bite improved and the pedal returned to home position although not perfect. Basically i was loosing fluid and air was in the system giving rise to the symptoms, which sounds the same as you. They replaced the accumulator and bled the system, however, i still was experiencing similar again as you decribe. They said that the air in the system can damage the slave cylinder and they need to replace this too. This was subsequently done and then the pedal was fine. Incidentally, no obvious sign of a leak on my slave cylinder too. So i would suggest you dont need to see a leak for the cylinder to be bad?? Your system (although) slightly different (no accumulator) sounds as though it is behaving similar to mine and even if you replace the clutch, this will not sort the change in bite etc that you are experiencing? This needs sorting. Just because he hasnt seen a master cylinder go, doesnt mean to say it isnt? There's always a first time, not saying it is ofcourse. Anyway, with your pedal feel as it is and him not removing the parts to inspect the actuall clutch, i would suggest that it is a very wild guess on how much 'life' is in your clutch?? At the end of the day, i suppose you are in their hands a bit...... You any where near Wembly?? I know a couple of well clued up guys near there where i had my car from? They know their stuff......
  6. RF5BPilot, do yourself a favour and dont get messing with things (as i'm sure you wont). Your car is under warrantee anyway so getting it sorted shouldnt be an issue. As a point of information, I got in my motor today (at about -2 degs C outside (28F) and standing for 15 hrs) and gearbox had no problem getting in ALL gears with ease. Dave.
  7. I also had a 'creaking' from up front and was told by my OPC head technician that it is the 'rubber' around the windscreen that 'creaks' on the outside of the car (bodyshell). He said that they ALL do this after a while and the only way to temporarily 'fix' it was to clean under the seal (where it touches the side pillers/roof and at the bottom of the screen). You can simulate it by pressing the outside of the rubber or move it around and see if it makes a 'creaking' noise?? Anyway, clean with some meths and a cloth or soapy water and a sponge and get all the crap out from underneath. When this has been done, get some silicon oil and run it into the rubber where it touches the glass (at the bottom) and paintwork. Leave stand for a while and wipe excess off. My car had been gradually getting worse and worse and was becoming unbarable, but now, silence from up front!! Try that, its cheap to do and may sort the issue. Dave.
  8. If your 'bite' position is changing, then you almost certainly have air in the system due to a leak. Dont know where the leak is, but you must have one? Unless the clutch was bled incorrectly in the first place (which i have experienced from an OPC with my old Box S!) Also, you could have a worn out clutch release baring that will make your pedal hard to press. You get an audilble noise (creaking) outside at the rear and you feel it through the pedal. Part of your new clutch kit includes this baring i believe and the labour to do just that is pretty much the same as a full clutch anyway. If hes the expert, get an agreement that if this doesnt solve the issue he doesnt charge you for the labour or something?? How many miles has your clutch done??
  9. Its a bit of a long story really.......... I initially had the allignment done at an independant tyre/wheel/exhaust place, that my OPC use. All exactly the same equipment as the OPC and they know the specs too etc etc, but at a 1/3 of the price! However, when they loosened my camber adjuster on the right rear wheel it fell into a position and would not adjust back. They had to leave it in a massive negative camber state (2 degs 44 mins!) for me to drive home. After discussions with this place i negotiated a full refund. Unfortunately, they do not do 'work' on Porsches and therefore as my car came out worse than it went in and would now probably cost a fortune at the OPC to get it put right they agreed so there were no bad feelings..... I contact my OPC and explained the situation, but they said they had to put it on their allignment setup to see what was the matter and take it from there (fair enough). This was done and in the end i had to have a couple of new camber adjusters and bolts (each side) at £4.5 and £13 each respectively (from memory). Luckily, my OPC owed me a favour and did the allignment, fitted the adjusters and bolts free of charge as a good will gesture! The parts are a Porsche item and you have to have the load off the wheels to replace them. At one stage there were 5 guys under my car, so i think they arent too easy either?? Then they reset the suspension by taking it for a spin and put all the stuff back on to set up the tracking again! Took around 3.5 hours in all! Hope this helps.
  10. I've just been going through similar issue's. I take it you have standard suspension? If so this should not be a problem to set up. Incorrect camber should not give you wobble, that is a balancing issue or something that vibrates at that speed. The issue with mine was that one of the rear wheels could not take off the camber and was a whole degree out of spec. It turned out i had to have new camber adjustment bolts and fittings that allows the camber to be adjusted correctly. After this they were able to set exactly to spec and my requirements. I suggest this is you first port of call??
  11. Your key (remote) will not unlock the car after a few days anyway (think its 5?), as the system goes into standby to save power. The alarm and security features are still all go, but you loose the facility to remote central lock and disable the alarm. In this case you have to open the door 'maually' with your key and within 10 secs (i think it is) turn on ignition (position 2). This powers back up the remote etc and your remote central locking should work again. However, if your key physically doesnt unlock the door, then you have a mechanical problem (linkage maybe) that is stopping this.
  12. "If it is air in the system am I right in thinking a simple bleed will only treat the sympton not the cause" Yes. You've got air in there because something potentially has gone wrong. So, although bleeding the system may 'relieve' the symptoms for a few hours/few days, ultimately the issue will return. When the leak gets too bad, bleeding will not help and you will loose all clutch control (unable to disengage/engage gears). Remember, i think the fluid for your car is the same as the brake reservoir, so make sure its not empty!!?? For me, i'd just take it into a qualified dealer, and get them to diagnose/sort it. If its a slave cylinder or master cylinder, as i understand it they aint easy to do!?
  13. All cars during development are taken to very cold climates and very hot climates to test that the design works at both extreames of temperature without any fuss, as it should. So, although the gearbox may be 'tight' for a while when cold, you should be able to get it into gear easily enough. If you cant, no matter what the dealer may tell you, i believe you have an issue with something I.M.O. If they argue the fact, jump into an equivalent model on their forcourt and take that out. No argument then.
  14. Sounds like you have air in the system (if hydraulic) which means you potentially have a leak somewhere (slave cylinder/master cylinder). As you 'operate' the clutch, it will get better, this is typical of air in the system. If it is not hydraulic, then maybe the clutch is on way out??
  15. If your battery is holding, then your battery is 'good enough' (at this time). When my battery died, it looked as though it charged, but as soon as you take it off charge and have any kind of load on it, the voltage fell rapidly and the alarm started going off. So, either intermitent failure with alternator, or bad switches as Loren said. Get your battery tested, then you'll know.
  16. I would have said air in system (bleed clutch). This could be cus your slave or master cylinder is on way out. Any 'binding' as you depress and release the clutch??
  17. Guys, advice/help required......... Just had a full geometry check done and all wheels were pretty much spot on baring the right rear which had a little too much camber at -1 degree 42 minutes (top limit is 1 deg 40 mins for ROW). Now, after they had fiddled with it, they are saying that they cannot get the right rear now anywhere near the spec? Apparently, when they loosened off the adjustment it went to this point and will not adjust (2 dgrees 44 minutes!!!) They say i need a new 'adjuster bush'??? What is this?? How do i replace it?? Why should i need a new one??? I am in dispute with them at the moment, as my car was set up better before i took it in compared to now where the right rear is miles off. In fact you can physically see the difference looking down the car on each side! Any advice on what this part is (real name etc) and how easy it is to replace would be appreciated. Wish i never had a darn alligment check now, all because they said it was wearing the inside edges (as they all do!) and still will be after all this, as the figures are no different (bang in middle of spec, apart from rear ofcourse) Please help, Dave.
  18. Do you have a warrantee??? If its the slave/master cylinder or release baring, then those are covered under warrantee (Porsche warrantee anyway). You need to get an agreement from the dealer that if it proves to be one of these rather than the clutch plate, then parts and labour will be covered for the needless replacement of the clutch etc.
  19. Look for low mileage, fully serviced (at OPC) with warrantee (that can be extended) then as long as your happy with the car, you dont have to worry too much. Check clutch actuation/feel, any clunks from suspension and brakes for corrosion on discs. Dont be under any illusions though that these cars are bomb proof (as i'm sure your not) because they arent in my experience............. You will enjoy it though never the less.
  20. You are not supposed to just let your vehicle 'idle' this is not good for the motor. So, i agree with other guys, just get in and drive, keeping it below 4000rpm until up to temp. Remember though, your oil isnt up to temp until well after the water, so dont thrash it too hard for a while........
  21. Agreed................ All flash......... no substance!
  22. Not sure how your insurance company's work over there, but try and get them to buy the clear headlights from the '03 Boxster if you have the orange indicator strip???? Shouldnt be anymore $'s and i think they fit?? Anyone??? The bonnet and bumper should be re-finished and re-sprayed at an approved Porsche repair centre.
  23. Wow, you guys have it cheap over there! Yeah, our OPC charge around 100 an hour labour, but thats in Sterling!! Also the prices quoted for the parts would be the same for us but in Sterling. So basically we would be charged twice as much as your talking. God we're ripped off here! Think its the same for the price of P cars too? Obviously not twice, but considerably cheaper?? What does a 997TT retail over there at then??
  24. Well, you could do what I did and buy an '01 with 60K miles and then find out the engine was replaced under warranty and really only had 20K miles on it for the same price. On that one, I think depending on the overall condition of the car, I'd get the '99 with 9K miles. As Indiana Jones said once............ "Its not the years honey, its the mileage......." However that said, newer models have 'improvements' and earlier issues will have been 'designed out' and sorted. Keep that in mind. Comparing to a Merc, well i havent had a Merc so cant coment, but dont be under any illusion that they are bomb proof! The interior probably isnt as good quality as a Merc (like for like in terms of age etc) and they do 'rattle' in various places! They do also have some know issues that you can read about and search on here for. But that said, they are a great car and deliver satisfaction behind the wheel in bundles, even though they can be a labour of love sometimes......
  25. If you have an hydraulic clutch (all of them these days), the 'bite' is kept fairly consistent independant of clutch wear in much the same way your brakes are. If you feel that its difficult to press the pedal, then this can be that your clutch release baring has gone. This is replaced as part of a new clutch kit (i believe) and therefore you could think that having a new clutch has fixed the issue, whereas it was actually the baring....... Pretty much the same labour to do baring as clutch, so unless your baring is covered under warrantee (like mine was) then you just have a 'new clutch', which incidentally i did while they were there and the labour was 'absorbed' by the release baring replacment under warrantee.
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