jeneric996

Thanks. That was a great article though.

I have searched and still can't find any info on the spring rates for the X74. I have another question about the installation of the support brackets. I read that you install them into the taillight area and attach them to the small bolts within this area. I pulled the taillights out last night and only found two small torx bolts on the inside of the taillight and one bolt where the taillight mounts at the outside of the area. Do we use these bolts? Does any one have pictures of the support brackets mounted and/or more info and/or a diagram of how to install it? Thanks, Eric

Hi, Does anyone know the spring rates for the X-74 package and the Bilstein PSS9? I am considering on upgrading my US M030 to the X-74, but may go the Bilstein route. Thanks, Eric

I agree with Orient Express. Looking back, I should have just tapped into the existing vaccum but I was trying to follow the TSB to the letter. It wasn't a fun task! I did not have to "lower the engine" into order to obtain more clearance thank goodness.

You need to tap into the vaccum system and need to replace the rubber ring (sleeve) that attaches to the throttle body. Compare your PSE parts and you will find a 4" rubber ring that has a nipple molded to it. I replaced the right-side (passenger-side) rubber sleeve with the suppled one with the nipple. This is where you will add the vacuum line. On mine, the left-side already had a sleeve with a nipple for another existing vacuum part. I hope this helps. Good luck.

Hi, I did a search and wanted to confirm that 48 ft/lbs was the proper torque spec for the manual front seats bolts on a '03 996. Thanks.

Underneath the ECU, there will be a rubber grommet that leads to the front passenger side engine compartment. Remove the carpeted foam between the upper rear deck and where your rear seats would be. Unbolt the ECU panel and you should see a body-colored rubber grommet below this area. Get a 2 or 3 foot small metal rod or stiff wire and insert it from the inside. Go outside and look; it should come out by the front passenger side engine compartment near the passenger side rear wheel. Attach your wires and pull them through. I ran my sport exhaust wires this way and then to the driver's side B-pillar, under the trim panel and to the fuse box area.

I don't know the measurement but the brakes are identical except for the color. I recently purchased Boxster S brakes (red) to replace my black ones. Exact fit.

Don't forget Fabspeed also weighs less than the PSE. However, PSE is a factory OEM part. I haven't heard Fabspeed in person but I do love my PSE with full electronics.

It could be many things but I would start with the grey-colored relay that this above the positive black cover (used for jump starting) in the engine compartment. You will see a two-wire brownish connector that plugs into the grey relay. From the grey relay, you will also see a 90 degree rubber tube that connect to a hard plastic tube and two more coming out of the other end. This is the vacuum system for the sport exhaust flaps. First, have someone press the sport exhaust switch and see if you can hear that grey relay click. The click is very faint so listen closely. If you can hear it, it's good. Then it may be a problem with the vacuum lines. If you don't hear it, then: I would disconnect the two-wire brownish connector and use a volt meter to see if there is current. (BE CAREFUL not to cross the two volt meter test wires when you test it.) With one person checking the current, have another person press the sport exhaust switch. If you have current, then you most likely need a new grey relay. Simple install/fix. The other problem could be vacuum related. If the electrical part is okay, you may have a vacuum leak and will have to trace the black tubes and vacuum check the lines. Check the vacuum flaps that are connected onto the mufflers and see that they move freely by hand and without binding.

The TSB for the 996 was issued on 12-22-00, Part ID 7/00, regarding the newer modified release lever was installed in production on April 19, 2000 from the following transmission number: G9600 1018220. I did not see a TSB for the Boxster. If your car is out of warranty, you may want to re-bleed the clutch line. This could be the easy fix since you mentioned that the clutch felt spongy after you initially bled the line. Or, so long as the clutch feels fine and you can live with the noise, keep driving until you need major work like a new clutch or a RMS leak. If you're within warranty, have it checked out. I just got my car back and the clutch is completely smooth and noise free. I'll have to see how long this will last. I also noticed that shifting with my Porsche Short Shift Kit (B&M) feels smoother and not as notchy too. Per the invoice, the dealer replaced the pressure plate, throw out bearing, sleeve release lever, ball socket and some other smaller parts. I'm sure this would have cost over $1,000.00.

I have a similar problem like what you described. You didn't mention what year your 986 was because there is a TSB where the dealer will replace parts within the bellhousing/ clutch area if the owner complains about a creak noise at the rear of the car. I think the 986 and 996 uses similar parts, if not the same. I have a '03 996 C2 so all of the parts were already updated. The dealer initially replaced the clutch pedal assembly because of a defective spring; lubed my slave cynlinder and then evetually took down my tranny and lubed the clutch fork and throwout bearing. The last repair was good for about one week and then the creak noise returned and was even worse -- the pedal feel improved though. So my car is back at the dealer and Porsche authorized a whole clutch replacement. It should be done by today or tomorrow.

I was able to install the full electronics and did not install the gray/pink wire to the relay, thus eliminating the speed cut out. When I did the complete electronic install, I posted the following message which should be an alternative to pulling the jumper: ... by cutting the correct gray/pink wire, you will be able to defeat the cut-out between 35-45 mph. I just completed the install except for the switch which is on order. I was able to test the system using the defroster switch. With your situation, the dealer could have installed the relay and socket in any open area within the Relay Carrier 1 (This is what I did and is per the TSB). You need to look at the Relay Carrier 1 and look for the relay with the lanuage: "Crede Elektronik Abgasklappen Relais 996.618.980.03 1 =A 2 = 31 4 = E/A Taster 5 = LED Kontr. 6 = 15 8 = Ventil Made in Germany" This is the relay that comes with the electronics [for the PSE]. It is a black relay with a white label with the writing above. None of my other relays have this writing. Get access to the back of this relay socket and cut the gray/pink wire. Naturally, cap off the end of the cut wire with electrical tape. This will defeat the cut-out and you will not have to pull the jumper plugs. Good luck. I hope this helps.

Check out these two sites: www.mercedesshop.com and Benzworld: http://registry.mbnz.org/forums/ You may have to browse and search, but they're both good.

I'm interested in purchasing a short shift kit for my '03 996 C2 and it will probably be either the B&M or the OEM kit for the 996. My only concern is that the 35 to 37% reduction in throws may be too much. I am curious about the new short shift kit available for the "550 spyder" limited edition Boxster S which claims a reduction of only 15%. I know the Boxster S and the 996 use the same tranny so wouldn't it fit? As anyone considered this option.

Regarding external damage, I would carefully inspect the mounting flanges and threading of the 3 bolts. Also check to see that the vacuum actuators work and without any binding just in case you decide to do the complete install later. It turned out my passenger side muffler was damaged during shipping. After several attempts to line up the three bolts of the muffler mounting bracket to the engine mounting bracket, I realized that the flange was bend; this prevented me from matching up the bolts. I also notice that one of the bolts was bent too. I corrected these problems by rebending the flange and I used my old mounting plate from my stock muffler.

Our motors have a timing chain that is suppose to last the "entire" life of the car and is self-adjusting. However, the polyrib belt needs to be replaced at 60K miles. Check out the DIY section. It looks fairly easy to do. This belt is the one you can see at the back of the engine and runs the alternator, water pump, oil pump etc.

Karlooz, The exhaust will sound stock with the PSE switch activated. I've had my system with the complete wiring for about three weeks now, and I use the the switch sparingly; sometimes in the morning for the first 1/2 mile when the metal pipes are cold and other times to show off to friends. I don't particularly like this sound during the first 1/2 mile, but my friend heard it and loves it. In fact, he wished the system sounded like that all of the time and felt the PSE could even be louder. Different opinions as expected. Regard the sound with the PSE open, it will have more growl to the system and slightly more noise but absolutely no resonation within the interior. I'm assuming it's like GHL. BTW, GHL has a 30-day money back policy. Since sound is mainly subjective, you should visit your dealer and "test" the PSE. I considered GHL, Fabspeed, Ruf and PSE. I opted for the PSE because of the switch so my wife wouldn't complain and it's fully OEM. I liked the aftermarket systems because they're cheaper and significantly lighter in weight. I doubt any of the aftermarket systems mentioned above would compare to the GT3 bypass because you're eliminating the mufflers altogether. If you're looking for ultimate loud, then the bypass would be your ticket. Regarding the install of the PSE with the full electronics, I recommend checking the TSB for this install. Loren has posted it on this site. You will not be able to install it without this TSB. I cannot thank Loren enough for this info! I was able to bypass many of the steps of the TSB like removing the radio, console, seats, upper panel within the engine compartment, etc. However, it still took me over 12 hours to install the system over a three-day period (3 hours for the mufflers, about 3-4 hours for the electronics and another 4 to 5 hours for the vacuum lines). Now that I've done it, I should be able to do the complete install in about 7 to 9 hours. I hope this helps with your decision. Regards, Eric

Yes, by cutting the correct gray/pink wire, you will be able to defeat the cut-out between 35-45 mph. I just completed the install except for the switch which is on order. I was able to test the system using the defroster switch. With your situation, the dealer could have installed the relay and socket in any open area within the Relay Carrier 1 (This is what I did and is per the TSB). You need to look at the Relay Carrier 1 and look for the relay with the lanuage: "Crede Elektronik Abgasklappen Relais 996.618.980.03 1 =A 2 = 31 4 = E/A Taster 5 = LED Kontr. 6 = 15 8 = Ventil Made in Germany" This is the relay that comes with the electronics. It is a black relay with a white label with the writing above. None of my other relays have this writing. Get access to the back of this relay socket and cut the gray/pink wire. Naturally, cap off the end of the cut wire with electrical tape. This will defeat the cut-out and you will not have to pull the jumper plugs. Good luck. I hope this helps.

Thanks, Loren, for the quick reply. I hope to have everything working by early next week. I'll repost once it's completed. p.s. I did not install the Speedo A wire (Grey/Pink wire to jumper plug 1/1 (slot 23)) so the system should not cut out between 35 and 45 mph. (I hope)

Hi Loren, I am in the process of installing the complete PSE with full electronics myself and need some help. :help: Specifically, TSB Step 1.32 of the PSE install -- I need Technical Manual, Group 2, 24 46 37, Page 24-5 So far I installed the mufflers and 90% of the electronics. I received the kit #000-044-200-19 for the 2003 C2 and thought it came complete with the switch. Well, it didn't, and I just ordered the switch which should arrive by Monday the 29th. Regarding the electronics, I still have to tap the Red/Blue wire to the B10 fuse wire, install the switch in the dash, and (the fun part :eek: ) run the two wires from the relay carrier 1 to the back of the car, drill a hole, and place the wires into the engine compartment. So while I'm waiting for the switch, I decided to move onto the vacuum part. I am concerned about the TSB regarding removal of the throttle with intermediate parts and both rubber sleeves (Step 1.32); TSB refers to Technical Manual, Group 2, 24 46 37, Page 24-5. After I remove the air intake system, it looks like I can simply remove the throttle body bolts and the two sleeves on each side. Since this is a drive-by-wire system, do I need to reset the throttle body once I put everything back? (I hope not because I don't have a PST 2). :( Lastly, are there any wiring diagrams/schematic for the PSE? I am curious to see what the wires/relay actually do. Any information will be extremely appreciated! This request is a bit technical, but I hope you have it. BTW, the mufflers sound awesome. I kinda wonder why I'm doing this but it's a fun project overall. Regards, Eric

Thanks again, Loren. Great information. That Clutch bell housing TSB is fairly old and my car should have the newer part (Built date 2/26/03). I'm undecided if I should let the dealer remove my tranny just for a squeak. BTW, I have a 2003 C2 and will install the newer PSE. The TSB for the PSE regarding the vacuum lines appears straight forward; I realize the whole task of electronics/ vacuum lines and mufflers will be very time consuming. Scouser, I had my 2003 C2 clutch pedal assembly replaced because of a squeak in the clutch pedal/dash area. The dealer first tried to relube it but evetually replaced the whole assembly. I think there is a TSB on this procedure. Eric

Hi Loren, I am having the same creaking noise from the tranny area. My dealer tried to lube the slave cylinder but it still makes the same noise. They mentioned that they would have to pull the whole tranny down. If you don't mind, please forward the TSB on the bell housing area. I also plan on doing the full electronics for the PSE. Thanks for the TSB on that. However, my only concern regarding the install is to tap and drill into the rear deck panel. Do you have the TSB on how to remove the passenger side C-pillar and rear carpet in order to gain access onto the rear deck? Thanks, Eric

Loren's right as usual! At less than 500 miles, I took my '03 car (built 2/26/03) in for a squeaky, binding clutch and a rather"slow" return. The dealer replaced the whole clutch pedal assembly with a new spring and lube. After this repair, the clutch is good. My car was in for two days but the dealer gave me an '03 Boxster during this time -- A pretty fun car. Hopefully yours will be an easy fix too.