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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    You are not the only one. This thread has jumped back and forth on several subjects and posters, which has not helped the clarity, but your synopsis is correct: P1325 is bank 2, and is a solenoid related problem, probably dirt, or an electrical failure, which I suggested in post #4. I also suspect wear pad issues because of the excessive deviation values before the VarioCam system activates on his Durametric system. The OP brought the sensor issue up in post #3, where he commented they had found a bad sensor as well, but did not mention any related codes or details. So at a minimum, there is a solenoid problem, and probable pad wear issues which need further investigation.
  2. JFP in PA
    As it is pressed in, you either need a special tool to do it on the vehicle, or take the upright out and take it to a shop that can press it for you.
  3. JFP in PA
    The Pelican IMS is basically a replacement stock unit, so as soon as you install it, you have the same odds of failure as the factory bearing. Pelican also does not make a dual row bearing, instead they use a single row bearing and a spacer if the engine is dual row, which amounts to replacing the strongest design factory bearing with the weakest. If you have a single row, go with the LN IMS Pro, if you have a dual row, go with the LN hybrid ceramic dual row. In either case, you could also consider the IMS Solution, which is the only permanent IMS retrofit.
  4. JFP in PA
    The very reason I, and others, hate oil technology discussions. As I stated, the Gibbs product is high in ZDDP; and according to its manufacturer, it intends to stay high in ZDDP. Mobil, like most other oil compounders, have started reducing ZDDP concentrations in some of their products. While we have not tested every current Mobil product, UOA's have shown signs of these changes as they move to other metal salts to replace the some or all of the ZDDP previously used in their formulations to get mid or low SAPS under ACEA or API SL, CJ-4, or SM ratings. As for flushing an engine before switching oils, while doing so would aid in removing some the less advantageous additives used in mass produced oils, such as paraffinic compounds, it is not absolutely required. Yes, the new oil could be diminished slightly by residues from the previously used product, but the level is no where near problematic, as demonstrated by repeated UOA's. We have converted a lot of engines from other products directly to the DT-40 with absolutely no adverse effects. So while some engine builders would espouse a flush, not doing so remains a viable option. Lastly, we caution customers against using oils with advertised weights higher than "X"W-40 in VarioCam, and particularly in VarioCam Plus engines, as excessive oil weights have led to problems with the VarioCam system and even VarioCam related CEL's due to these systems sensitivity to oil viscosity.
  5. JFP in PA
    Instead of the M1, take a good look at Joe Gibbs DT 40, which is an excellent year round oil for these cars. Very high in ZDDP, it demonstrates excellent film strength and resistance to high temp/high shear conditions.
  6. JFP in PA
    The dealer is correct. They use "in service dates" rather than model years as the car could have sat on the lot for a long period before being sold.
  7. JFP in PA
    There is no real "checking" of the IMS without pulling it, and then it needs to be replaced anyway (you cannot reuse one that has been extracted from the engine). As yours in an 01 you will need to check the flange plate in order to determine which style (single or dual row) is in the car before ordering a replacement.
  8. JFP in PA
    It can be done with the engine in, but it is a bear; almost like building ship in a bottle. With the engine out and on a stand, it is much easier. Just how are you planning to "check the IMS"?
  9. JFP in PA
    Ok, there was definitely no crud in there, just light deposits/staining. Fuel pressure on both pumps was ~60 psi. Though P2189 is a drivers side code (I think?) I tested on the much more accessible passenger side port. It looked like the two sides of the rail were just forked off the same stream, so I assume this was fine? I have not cleaned the MAF yet...getting it out of the lower tube is such a PITA, and you didnt think that was the culprit anyway, so Im waiting on that attempt. Can I test for vaccum leaks by spraying electrical cleaner (since it is plastic safe) on all the PCV/evap hoses and looking for jumps in idle? Yes, you can use cleaner for this, but be careful as it is flammable. I would also check the voltages on the O2 sensors, just be sure the sensor is functioning properly.
  10. JFP in PA
    Neither cam is currently out of spec, and the code is not currently active: P0021 Adjustment of Inlet Camshaft in relation to Crankshaft, Bank 2 – Signal Implausible Possible cause of fault - Dirt in oil circuit - Sealing strips on inlet camshaft adjuster faulty - Oil pressure too low - Mechanical fault in inlet camshaft adjuster - Magnetic hydraulic valve faulty Besides the above or dirt in the oil, an intermittent cam position sensor problem on bank 2, which should not trigger until the cams go +/- 10 degrees.
  11. JFP in PA
    Cats can rattle and still work, but they won't do that forever.
  12. JFP in PA
    Sorry, but that link goes nowhere.
  13. JFP in PA
    OK, here is the entire fuse system listing for your car: I would take a look at fuse holder E, fuses 1 & 2, which are 30Amp units for the power seat controls. If no fuses are out, I would again suggest having the car scanned to make sure they are actually activated. It should be similar to the one above. Take a look at the horn ring contactor behind the wheel, they are pretty well known for acting up. Should be a DIY in the archives.
  14. JFP in PA
    https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/listsofsources
  15. JFP in PA
    OK, here is the entire fuse system listing for your car: I would take a look at fuse holder E, fuses 1 & 2, which are 30Amp units for the power seat controls. If no fuses are out, I would again suggest having the car scanned to make sure they are actually activated. It should be similar to the one above.
  16. JFP in PA
    Sometimes it just takes miles............
  17. JFP in PA
    You probably would do better with the OEM units, try Sunset Porsche, a board sponsor.
  18. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Porsche 16 inch wheels will not fit on cars that came from the factory with cross drilled rotors as they are too large in diameter.
  19. JFP in PA
    Do you have a relationship with a shop that could get them for you? Can you buy online from and out of state facility?
  20. JFP in PA
    From the engine control module, which like the dash controller may now require recalibration (PIWIS).
  21. JFP in PA
    Your post is fine here. A lot of the information handled (and displayed) by your cluster comes over the CAN bus system. Your original radio was also a MOST fiber optic unit. Replacing the radio, the installers could have upset the communications system the car was designed to use, which is probably why you are getting the cluster code. It may also be related to your strange distance readings. If you still have the original radio, I would reinstall it, clear all the codes and see what comes back.
  22. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: You have many questions, but let's start with the majors: If the car is running 220-225F, it is overheating; it should run that hot, even when being beaten. You need to find out why this is happening as heat equals death to the M96/97 engine. I would start by pulling the front fascia and cleaning out around the radiators (they are a collector for everything from leaves to dead birds). I would also seriously consider switching the car to a 160F thermostat, and check under the water pump looking for crusted coolant, a sign the pump is on the way out and it needs to be proactively replaced. Send the Fuchs gear oil back and get the factory lube. Porsche uses a unique fluid that is made to their specs, it is fully synthetic and keeps the gearbox happy, particularly when cold. Never skimp on the oil used in these engines. For your location, I would use either Joe Gibbs DT40 (5W-40) or Castrol Edge with Syntec technology in a 10W-40 weight. Both offer higher film strength, and the Gibbs product has the highest ZDDP level you can find in an oil. Replace the serpentine belt and check all of the pulleys, idlers and the water pump for play or noise.
  23. JFP in PA
    Most states allow the recycling of these parts, and according to your state statues on the subject: "The Arizona State Legislature states in Statute 13-3728 that it is illegal for a person to purchase or sell a used catalytic converter "unless the purchase or sale is in the ordinary course of business by a commercial motor vehicle parts or repair business in connection with the sale or installation of a new catalytic converter." This law does not apply to automotive recyclers. Violation of the statute is considered a misdemeanor offense." To me, that reads that a private individuals cannot buy or sell them to each other, but an authorized recycler can. Arizona was one of many states that limited who can buy or sell used converters primarily because of converters being stolen and sold for scrap. You still may want to check this yourself, just to be safe.
  24. JFP in PA
    I would look at used cats from a wrecking yard; they can be had cheaply (even cheaper than aftermarket units) and often come with a limited warrantee.
  25. JFP in PA
    Have you checked the fuel pressure?
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