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JFP in PA
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Everything posted by JFP in PA
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Momentary Loss of Electrical Power While Driving
JFP in PA replied to jstew039's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Possible........ -
Momentary Loss of Electrical Power While Driving
JFP in PA replied to jstew039's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
The immobilizer, what you call drive block, shuts off power to the ignition and fuel systems when it is working properly. That said, because of its location (under the driver's seat), it is very susceptible to being flooded when the car's drains plug up, which shorts out the system and can cause other issues. I would pull the unit, open it up and look for signs of water damage. These can sometimes be repaired but are often toast when this happens. Good luck. -
I would also look under the rear of the car to see if one of the axles has become disconnected. What you described sounds like what happens when the bolts back out of the axle flange.
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Lost Radio Code - post your request here
JFP in PA replied to pennyporsche's topic in Lost Radio Codes
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Get the car scanned with a Porsche specific diagnostic tool which can see Tiptronic faults. It may be something small like a single solenoid had failed, but with out diagnostics you are guessing in the dark.
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I seriously doubt 16 inch wheel will clear the brake calipers and rotors on the car.
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Under the driver’s seat.
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They get scattered all over the cooling system. Best way we have found to get some of them out is to flush the cooling system components backwards from the normal flow path with copious amounts of clear water. This will still not get every last one as some of them get wedged in tight passage areas and don’t want to come out. Whatever you do, DO NOT apply full water line pressure to the system, it is designed for less than 20 psig pressures and will not be happy if you hit it with 60-90 psig line pressure.
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If that is the case, you got lucky. 😉
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Welcome to RennTech If you appreciate how we help, please consider becoming a contributing member .
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That bearing is decidedly on its way out, small amounts of ferrous particulate indicate it was already on its way to failure. If you have not already pulled the sump cover in preparation to do the retrofit, I would do so now. You will be looking for similar fine ferrous grit in the sump. If you find none, you are golden, but if you find it there, it is everywhere inside the engine.
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You can do the IMS with the heads off; most problems that arise during DIY IMS retrofits involve the cams jumping time, which could not happen in your case.
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Please do not "bump" posts, it is against the forum rules you agreed to when you joined.
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Pretty straight forward, you just follow the possible causes tree, eliminating them one at a time until you find the cause. Even the absolute best diagnostic tools only provide a sense of direction of where to find the fault; none that I know provide a set of directions, which is where the technician's diagnostics capabilities come into play.
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Welcome to RennTech Loren listed all of them in his post above.
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There is only one place I would send Porsche water cooled heads: Len Hoffman Hoffman Cylinder Heads Len will go through them and tell you what is needed, he is one of the best in the business. If you read what I have said about bolts, you already know where I stand on this subject. Bolts are cheap compared to having to do the job twice.
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It would not be the first new fuel pump that was a dud right out of the box, particularly if it is an aftermarket pump.
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What timing procedure did you use to initially set the cam allocations? And are you sure you did not mix the cam locations (switched the cams)?
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You can get a good idea of the installed heights by measuring from the spring retainer to the cylinder head surface with everything assembled. It is not as accurate as doing it disassembled, but you are looking for an outlier rather than small incremental differences. Sometimes you can actually see that one or more looks "different" than the others without even using a measuring tool. Installed height is determined by target valve seat pressures, but tends to be around 1.34 inches. The only thing I can think of that you could have done during assembly is to miss enough of the actual valve timing that the cams are holding valves slightly open that should be closed at TDC.
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I do not see any obvious signs of mechanical contact.
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There is one thing in doing work on these engines that can result in valve problems: Rotating the engine, even by hand, in the opposite direction to how it runs. Everyone thinks that if they are trying to rotate the engine to say TDC and overshoot, you can simply rotate it in the other direction. Problem is that you should never rotate the M96/97 engines backwards as this can cause slight piston to valve contact issues, and leaking valves. The reason I would drop an inspection camera into the bore is to look for marks on the pistons, which indicate contact has occurred. There are a limited number of ways a valve can leak; burnt (the mating surface is burned away), valve head is bent and will not correctly seat, and valve stem is bent, which jams the stem in the guide, holding the valve off the seat. That is why I suggested checking the valve installed height on the affected cylinders; if the stem is jammed in the guide, the installed height will be lower than the rest. This can also be the case if a spring has failed (broken), which will have the same impact, the installed height would be off to the low side. If it is a spring, it is possible to fix it without removing the heads, if it is any of the other candidates, you have no other choice as it would be impossible to fix with the head in place. I'm sure this is not what you wanted to hear, but it is the case.
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If it were in my shop, I would borescope the questionable cylinders to look at the valves. Only real probabilities here are bad valves (burnt or hung open), and if confirmed by inspection or checking valve heights when closed, the heads will probably have to come off.
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Make sure whichever cylinder is leaking air out the exhaust is at TDC before plugging in the leak down unit.
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For about 5 min. Replace it, and do not use aftermarket parts or you will be doing it again in about six months to a year. 😉
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Should.
