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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Possibly, or a sticking valve. The DME does not always immediately respond to a fault instance, they can also set a pending code and wait for a bit to see if the fault clears, and if it doesn't, then it throws a code.
  2. The biggest problem people run into with doing DIY service is not knowing what they are getting into before they start, and then trying to figure out how to get out of the predicament that they now find themselves in. Like all vehicles, these have their idiocracies, and there are a lot of tools that can make the project a simple afternoon of saving money and personal satisfaction. Vacuum filling systems, like the Uview system Porsche uses to refill these cars can be used on anything that is liquid cooled:
  3. Both codes are related to the secondary air injections system (P0491 is bank 1 flow check, p0492 is the same for bank 2). Because the SAI uses a series of valves and lines, one or more could have become blocked or inoperative.
  4. You say mixing Porsche's stuff with others can be a problem. What problems does this cause? Further on the coolant issue, how often would you say coolant should be replaced in a 996tt? Finally, is it really necessary to replace steering fluid, - annually? thanks for your help Gelation is the big issue, the formation of globs of sticky goo inside the cooling system that are a major pain to get out. Normally, we would use a schedule of every 5-6 years for the coolant, or sooner if it fails testing. No, but if you are doing it by only replacing what is held in the system reservoir by siphoning it out (rather than pulling the lower body panels and disconnecting the steering rack lines for a complete system flush), because that is only a partial replacement, doing it annually makes better sense.
  5. ATE type 200 is fine for the brakes. While the Durametric system can activate the ABS/PSM control system during a flush, doing so is only necessary if air has gotten into the control network. As for coolant, we only use Porsche's stuff, which is very good, but has been known to "not play well with others", so be careful about using other products unless the system has been fully drained and flushed with water first. Only mix the Porsche antifreeze with distilled water, never tap water. The optimal way to refill the cooling system is using a vacuum tool, which makes the process a 5 min. project instead of an all day affair. The second Pentosin tank (in the luggage compartment, under a cover) is for the clutch system. Flushing the power steering system is a pretty elaborate affair, requiring disconnecting the hydraulic system from the rack and running fresh fluid through the entire system until it is clear. Most owner's prefer to DIY this by siphoning out as much of the old fluid from the tanks and replenishing it at least once every year rather than disconnecting the lines from the rack and pumping fluid through the system. Porsche has typically listed their "approved" lubricants in Technical Service Bulletins, which are periodically updated, but you can usually find a wealth of information is the DIY sections under maintenance: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/342-996tt-manual-transmission-and-front-wheel-drive-oil-replacement/.
  6. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: It is under the dash near the fuse panel in a separate panel that is all relays.
  7. A lot of people have purchased used cats from breaker's yards with excellent results. Do a search........
  8. Very easy: Fill it up and do not run through the gears and up to the correct fluid temperature with the over flow plug out of the pan to drain off excees fluid. I have also seen cars that were filled while not level end up the same way. You would be surprised at how many cars we see that are over filled by shops that don't really know how to serivce these units.
  9. Evaporator assembly, 997-573-901-04, retail price $1175.30. I do not know what a "blendo-servo" is referring to, but you can refer to this diagram for part numbers and prices: http://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/auto-parts/2011/porsche/cayman/base-trim/2-9l-h6-gas-engine/hvac-cat/evaporator-and-heater-components-scat
  10. It should be in the electrical section. We cannot reproduce it here for copyright reasons. Open your drivers door wide, then look at the side of the dash where it contacts the door panel, you should see the outline of a door/hatch which is held closed by plastic spring clips. Pop it open, the fuse panel is inside.
  11. That information is in your owner's manual, along with diagrams showing how little doors on the side of the dash open to access them.
  12. That should not happen. I would suggest two things: Change your plugs and then have the vehicle scanned (using a Porsche specific scan tool) looking at the fuel trims. It may also be a good idea to have the cylinders with the missing plug electrodes bore scoped.
  13. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: P1125 is the code thrown when the air fuel mixture on bank 4-6 becomes so rich that the DME cannot compensate. Most common faults are a leaking injector or the fuel pressure has gone very high.
  14. A lot of the fasteners are single use types and should not be reused.
  15. Do the electrodes look burned away (melted) or are they just missing?
  16. Welcome to RennTech. Fan failures are fairly common, I'd start there.
  17. Don't feel bad, a lot of different makes suffer from this issue, we see it all the time.
  18. Your problem is a simple one; when the system is dimmed, there is still a low voltage on the wires, enough to illuminate the LED's, which require amazing little power to light, but not enough to do the same with the incandescent bulbs. Happens to be a common issue, requiring the addition of resistors. LED have such low resistance that we often see customer's that replace exterior running lights getting "bulb out" warnings on some cars because the system cannot even see the LED's.
  19. Loctite 518 is the preferred sealant.
  20. Firing order is 1-6-2-4-3-5. Possibly, but in any case possibly dead heater in an O2 sensor is going to alter how the car runs.
  21. P1117 indicates a low current condition on on the heated O2 sensor ahead of the cat on bank 1. This can either be a bad heater or a wiring issue. Check the sensor resistance using a digital multimeter on pins 1 & 2; you should see 1.8-2.5 ohm, if you don't the sensor heater is gone and you need to replace the sensor. All of the rest of the codes refer to the misfire on cylinder 5, which could be a loose connector, bad coil, or fouled plug.
  22. You are close to the edge on a go/no go retrofit with that amount of debris, particularly with that amount of ferrous material. The synthetic material can come from multiple sources, including the wear pads on the chain tensioning paddles. If your car was in my shop, this would be one of the cases where I would pull the IMS and open it up to see what is looks like before proceeding.
  23. Run a magnet over the crap in the sump cover and see how much gets picked up. I'm not overly concerned about the plastic bits.
  24. That is right at the very bottom of the acceptable range, so yes, it is low. And I would still suggest doing a voltage drop test across the primary battery cables for the reasons stated above. Thanks, JFP. Where are these primary battery cables and how would you test them. When the warning message came on it was during very heavy fog so there was lots of moisture in the air. I got a burning smell in the cabin, so I get the idea something shorted or burnt out!? I am referring to the heavy cables that run from the battery to a terminal junction and then down to the starter.
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