JFP in PA

There's more than 3 pipes -- there are 3 for the water pump housing alone.... Should be more like 8 pipes. See this thread by jpflip, which is a very good reference on this topic (including all parts with part #s): http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/267584-coolant-pipe-repair-parts-needed.html Silver_TT is correct, there are eight in total.

We have the round connector because we never know what is going to roll in the door next.

(1). You have air trapped in the cooling system, and you need to get it out before it kills your engine. There are DIY's on how to do this, so do a search. (2) You need to scan the car for codes related to the ABS and TC systems to find out why the MIL is lit. (3) Same goes for the locking system.1.) okay trying to remove air bubbles out by bleeding and cleaning radiator. Hopefully it solves the overheating problem2.) durametric cant seem to scan codes for ABS and Tc off. What could be the problem?3.) central lock limit not reached or something similar. What to do next?Thanks again!! Be sure to get all the air out, best way is to pull a vacuum on the system. Durametric should be able to see the ABS and TC systems unless either there is a problem with the version of the Durametric software, or the ABS system controller is disconnected or non functional. I'd check the controller to make sure the connectors are tight first. One of your door lock's switches is not reaching the lock position. Could be it needs its electrical connection seated, or the switch unit in the door may need to be replaced.

Considering what happened the first time, most people either go for the pinned (which is also glued) or welded approaches as they both assure the parts will not move as they are mechanically locked in place. Some also remain concerned that even with the pins, eventually the glue line will fail again and you will still have leaks. Going welded or threaded eliminates any possibility of that happening. As you are going to need to drop the engine in any case, may as well do it right and do it once.........

You have the fairly well known problem of the cooling hose fittings coming loose from their mating parts. There are companies that offer solutions ranging from pinning your existing fittings, to welded units that replace them. Either solution requires dropping the engine to get at all the fittings in the car. Kits range from do it your self welding of new connectors: DIY pin systems using bolts: Threaded hose end replacements: A lot of tracks now require one of these fixes before a Turbo or GT car is allow to run.

Running a high dose added in a single tank of fuel quite often cleans up a lot of little issues, and is a common practice at a lot of shops. That said, changing the oil after running out the tank is a good idea.

The answers are yes, and yes.......... The standard cable is about 8 ft., and you can use a USB extension cable rather than jump for their long cable. We like the shorter cable for using a laptop in the car on mobile tests without a big wad of cable in the car, the longer USB extension is used in the shop to connect to our Dell XPS tower. Combination gives you a lot of flexibility. Buy a good quality USB extension cable, there is some really cheap crap running around, and you want something that will wear well and last. The round connector fits 928, 944S2, 968, 964 or 1994-1995 Porsche 993.

Running the Techron every 3-4K won't hurt anything, and will do a lot to clean up problems in the fuel system. If you suspect a fuel pump delivery problem, hook up a fuel pressure test gauge to the test port on the rail and check your pressure and delivery rates. In particular, you want to watch for pressure bleed down after the engine is shut off, it should hold around 3 bar ten min. after being shut off. Your fuel filter is part of the tank flange, which also contains the valve that prevents bleed down:

(1). You have air trapped in the cooling system, and you need to get it out before it kills your engine. There are DIY's on how to do this, so do a search. (2) You need to scan the car for codes related to the ABS and TC systems to find out why the MIL is lit. (3) Same goes for the locking system.

Immobilizers are a common item in most Porsche models, and very difficult to circumvent in a theft attempt; you might want to check your owner's manual, or with your dealer, to see if yours is so equipped.

Ah, OK..... I used to be VP of Sales and Marketing for C&D Technologies

When the car is in that mode, the hydraulic system is rerouted, which can change the fluid level. You need to fix the reason for the fault, clear the fault, and then run the fluid level check according to the manual.

Sounds like Hawker...........

Ahsai is correct, it is under the center console.

Are you absolutely sure you put everything back as it should be? You'd be surprised at how many times we resolve a rough running car that just had plugs put in it by pushing the coil pack connectors back on all the way..............

First thing is any pending codes, that will give a better indication if this is some kind of misfire. I would also look at the fuel trims on both banks, as that would show strange A/F due to possible vacuum leaks.

If you have access to the Durametric software, collect some actual values so we can see if anything jumps out.

OK, first of all, you posted this in a section dedicated to diagnostic tools, tricks. and tips; but that is not a problem. I'm going to refer this one to Loren or RFM, both of whom would have a better fix on VIN numbering for different markets...................

No, a rough idle would not be caused by air in the cooling system.

Check the oil pump gears for signs of galling or pitting, if they are, time for a new pump. Also a good time to remove the check valve and spring on the pump housing, clean it out and replace the spring (they lose tension over time).

I think it is an excellent move, the OEM shaft is an investment cast piece and can snap fairly easily, leaving you with no oil pressure. The LN shaft is chrome moly, and actually stronger than the oil pump itself.

You will need a long, flexible nozzle to reach the drains, they are in the corners of the moon roof tray.

Much appreciated (same to everyone who has replied). I drove it low on gas today, and the check engine light turned off without me resetting the code. I haven't verified that the code is still present, but is that possible? Or did the bulb burn out? It's not an AUDI so I doubt the light has been illuminated for that long... I did add a bottle of Techron concentrate at less than 1/8th of a tank and filled it to about 3/4th tank. So far, I put 110-130 miles on it and haven't noticed any problems. I will reattach the Durametric when I get a chance, or should the check engine light re-trigger, sooner to get additional information. Thanks again, all. Many (but not all) codes, and emission related ones in particular, are capable of clearing themselves once the triggering event is gone. Often takes a couple drive cycles to accomplish, but they do clear.

You should be starting the diagnostic process by load testing the battery, if it passes a load test, only then should you be looking at load testing the alternator. You always need to first eliminate the battery from being part of the problem. That said, even a battery with multiple starts on it will not pull the voltage output down on a running alternator; the alternator should be reading 13.5 - 14.5V at idle.

I don't mean to highjack this thread, but I had a couple questions for JFP regarding this specific comment (I don't need this service but am curious). First, do you happen to know what wheel refurbishing companies by name are known to be the best / most capable? It seems there are a number of them out there. Second, what are the success rates for repairing bent wheels from, say, pot holes? Specifically I've read in the past that these wheels need to be heated to a very high temperature by these shops to make them malleable. I've read that on these Porsche soft alloy wheels this can often cause them to crack (maybe more prone on wheels such as the TT hollow spokes). I was just wondering if a really good refurbishing company has high success rates based on your experience...or if this is more of a "your mileage may vary" type of thing. When you read stuff like this you never know how good the individual was that was working on the wheel.......... Who we would go to depends upon the extent of the damage. Simple "curb rash" cosmetic touch up type repairs, we use a local guy that comes out in a specially equipped truck and does the repairs at our shop. For something more serious, we have used both Wheel Enhancement (http://www.wheelenhancement.com/index.php?t=Accessories) or Rimpro (http://www.rimpro.com). The wheels need to be dismounted, boxed up and shipped to them for assessment (not everything is fixable) and repairs. Rimpro seem to be able to handle the more seriously damaged wheels, but both have done very nice work for us in the past. At times, both Wheel Enhancement and Rimpro have told us that a particular wheel cannot be safely repaired, which is fine because you do not want a wheel to look good and then promptly fail on a customer. Both companies are also very good at sourcing replacements for "beyond hope" cases, particularly the odd or hard to find ones. As this is a pretty popular repair, I'm sure there are many other competent rim repair shops around the country as well, so asking your local PCA chapter for a recommendation would also be a good idea.