JFP in PA

You can do that, provided you either have, or can fabricate the tool required to take the thermostat out of the housing. To do a clean install on the third radiator, you will also need to fab up some adaptors as the "S" cars have different diameter hoses and lines in the front of the car. There is also a really neat work around for this, a company called Precision Chassis Works makes modified front hard lines that have he hose size adaptor already welded in: They sell these lines complete,or will do yours. They also sell a kit for those with aluminum welding skills. You can read more here: http://www.precisionchassisworks.com/boxster-cooling-line-modification.html Thanks for the info but Is there a benefit to using the LN water neck? Is the OEM prone to crack? I thought when you bought the radiator kit it came with the new hoses. http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/996thirdradia.html?Category_Code=996WaterCooling The LN housing is much like the factory, but with subtle refinements. Nice unit, but if you are on a budget, you can use the factory piece, and they are not prone to cracking. The 3rd radiator kit does come with hoses, but they are larger in inside diameter than the ones on your car. The cars that came factory with the 3rd radiator have larger diameter hoses and aluminum hard lines; the hoses that come with the kit will not seal to your hard lines due to the size difference and they will leak, which is why Precision came up with this fix. And they are replacement hard lines, not hoses.

Loren is correct, there is a wealth of information about the capabilities of the Durametric system on their website, and as well as an extensive table of specifics on their capabilities for each Porsche model (the system's abilities do vary with both model and year). You also need to note that some functions that used to be universal on both the "enthusiast" and "pro" systems are now limited to the Pro model only, but these differences are slight and most DIY users would probably not use some of these functions anyway as they are more "esoteric" in what they do.

It is a knock off of an early Durametric system, and one of the reasons Durametric changed their cables to a newer design. Your cable will only run some of the oldest, buggiest, and least capable software, which is also a clone and of unknown quality so it could actually damage your DME. Silver_TT has a very valid point; buying these things financially undermines one of the only firms supporting the entire Porsche community, no one else is doing the development work Durametric has committed to, and is supporting the DIY market in particular. With a real Durametric system, if you have a question or problem, help is only a phone call or email away, and always free.

You can do that, provided you either have, or can fabricate the tool required to take the thermostat out of the housing. To do a clean install on the third radiator, you will also need to fab up some adaptors as the "S" cars have different diameter hoses and lines in the front of the car. There is also a really neat work around for this, a company called Precision Chassis Works makes modified front hard lines that have he hose size adaptor already welded in: They sell these lines complete,or will do yours. They also sell a kit for those with aluminum welding skills. You can read more here: http://www.precisionchassisworks.com/boxster-cooling-line-modification.html

Your voltage is a bit low, it should be between 13.5 and 14.5V with the engine running. Could just be the voltage regulator, but I would get the alternator checked out.

Yes, common occurrence, your old defective AOS probably deposited a bit of oil inside your intake system and it is starting to come out. You can either let it burn off (may take quite a bit of time, depending upon how much oil is in there), or pull the intake system off an clean it. I cleaned the air distributors out while i was changing the AOS and on start up I didn't have much smoke, which then went to none very quickly. Then after about 8.5 miles it started smoking and air distributors have oil in them again. Same symptoms as before, with pouring smoke and rough running. Pulled the throttle body off and air distributors are full with oil again. Check the new AOS by trying to remove the oil fill cap with the car idling, it should come off with little effort. If it is hard to get off, the new AOS is a dud.

No, air in the cooling system will result in overheating, coolant dumps when steam pockets form, etc. The rough idle is coming from something else.

Porsche uses a unique full synthetic gear oil that is made for them to their specs, which no other manufacturer use. Several aftermareket oil companies have admitted that they do not have a match for it. Several of our customers have experimented with several aftermarket brands, but always went back to the OEM stuff due to excessive noise, and poor shifting problems. As soon as the OEM stuff was back in the car, the problems went away. I'm sure someone will chime in here and tell us they have used brand X or Y and not had problems, but that has not been our experience, and we change a lot of gear oil.

It may have been possible to have one of the wheel refurbishers fix them, they can often work wonders' particularly on hard to replace or match wheels.

I would, it should not lose any pressure.

When was the last time the gear oil was changed, and what brand/type of oil is in the gear box?

We like the Denso plugs and have had very good luck with them on "plug killers" like the turbo. The fact that they are one of the longest lived plug on the market is also a positive as the turbo cars are a multi hour job to change plugs because of everything that has to come off the car to get at the plugs.

We like the Denso plugs and have had very good luck with them on "plug killers" like the turbo. The fact that they are the longest lived plug on the market is also a positive as the turbo cars are a multi hour job to change plugs.

You have to be careful to get all the air out of the system, air pockets are really bad for these alloy engine cases as they thermally stress components like cylinder heads and can cause them to crack. You might want to check your area PCA chapter to see if someone can help you out with the vacuum system, with one of these units refilling the system with no chance of air pockets is a 5 min. job.

They get old and tired. Make sure you get enough hose to replace it (it goes all the way to the coolant tank) and is a very important component in keeping your cooling system air free. Also get screw type clamps for both ends to replace the factory spring clamps. You will also need to bleed your cooling system after recharging it with a 50/50mix of the OEM coolant (only) and distilled water if you do not have a vacuum filling setup.

18-20 PSIG max., the system has to hold for at least 15 min. with no drop off at all. You should also be testing your cap under the same conditions.

Take a look at the coolant bleed hose that runs off the top of the oil cooler, make sure it has not failed. You might just get away cheap here...........

Look over all the hoses exposed during this, vacuum lines in particular that run under the intake. If any look questionable, now would be the time to change them out. As the coolant is out of the car, and if your water pump is old (more than 40-50K on it), this would also be an excellent opportunity for a new OEM water pump and a 160F thermostat to help the car run cooler. I'd also take a good look at the cables on the B+ junction box for signs of corrosion; if they look bad, now would be the time.

That looks more like it. Be careful with aftermarket injectors, they are not always what they claim to be. There are firms that do excellent refurbishing of the injectors all over the country that will tell you quickly if one or more cannot be saved, but that rarely happens if the car is just off on mixture. I would suggest that while you have the car apart. do them all as you don't want to be doing this twice. Before you take it apart, if you have not done so already, run out the gas in the tank, and then dose the new tank of fuel with a bottle of Techron (get the large one for 20 gallon tanks), and take the car for a prolonged hard run at highway speeds. You could just have varnish on one or two injector pintles that is causing the issue, and the Techron dose may clean it out.

Not sure the Bentley is online anywhere, but it is a worthwhile purchase for the DIY'er. You will also need a low range torque wrench to reassemble everything, the oil cooler bolts are a mere 7 ft. lb. (use some mid strength thread locker on them). An inch pound wrench would be ideal.

There is a bit stuff in the way (if you have access to the Bentley 996 manual, there are several pages of detailed instructions with pictures starting on page 17-6). After draining the coolant, you need to move the power steering reservoir and pump (siphon out the fluid first), disconnect the battery and move the B+ junction box, and then unbolt the AC compressor (no need to vent the gas) and move it aside, and then remove the right side intake manifold. You should now be able to look down at the cooler and see the four small bolts holding the cooler in place.

Your red circle is at the base of the oil cooler, which is an oil to water system connected to your cooling loop. While extremely effective, these coolers do develop leaks, often from the O-rings at the base where they attach to the engine case. Sometimes the cooler itself goes bad. In any case, they are simple to remove (four bolts) and are not that expensive (around $200 or so) if you need a new one. If you are going to remove it, you need to drain the cooling system first, undo the four bolts and lift the unit very slightly while sliding a plastic bag under it (they retain a fair amount of coolant in them, and when removed from the engine and tilted, the coolant runs out all over the place, often into the now exposed oil passages for the cooler, and you end up having to flush your oil system out as well. The plastic bag is there just to catch this coolant.) before trying to lift it out of the engine bay. Always replace the four O-rings (two different sizes) when removing the cooler, they are single use seals and cannot be reused.

The vehicle doesn't already have an immobilizer system in it? Immobilizers shut off multiple electrical and electronic functions making it very difficult to get it running............

Changing the coolant tank should not alter how the car runs. That said, when you say the coolant drained out, did you overheat the car? Overheating these engines is a major problem. It is also possible that in the process of refitting the tank, something was disturbed that should not have been. If you had this done by a shop, I would not hesitate to take it back for them to check out.

We install plugs just about everyday of the week, we use anti-seize on all of them, and torque them to specs with torque wrenches that are regularly tested for calibration. In all the years we have been doing this, we have never had a plug come loose. Do it properly, and there should be no issues.