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JFP in PA
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Everything posted by JFP in PA
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Kind of difficult to diagnose this, I think you need either the Durametric software or a PIWIS scan for more detail.................
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Welcome aboard! :welcome: Try 0464
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Good point Mike, I had not noticed that the OP did not post fuel pressure and delivery data, so I would at least check that before doing anything. And if I found no fuel pressure during a check, I would bridge the terminals on the fuel pump relay to force the pump to run and check it again to be sure it is not something else like the relay or the CPS, which causes the DME to shut the fuel pump off when the crank position sensor dies
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Sometimes spending a few extra bucks can eliminate having to do a nasty job twice............. :jump:
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But is it an OEM quality pump (VDO), or a Chinese knock off? We have changed out several short life aftermarket pumps that did not make the grade…………..
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Misfire when wet
JFP in PA replied to DK570's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
They probably already were bad; the multiple moisture exposures just pointed that fact out. We often find coil packs with small cracks and often electrical tacking marks as well, so this is nothing unusual. -
Never said they were cheap. Shop around, but I think you will find Sunset to be competitive.
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Year and model?
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Except for physical damage, these hoses are pretty long lived; we have a couple customers with over 100K and 200K miles on the factory units. If they look bad, have soft spots or blisters, change them out; but as others have noted there are a lot of hoses in these cars, and you basically need to disassemble the car to get at them all.
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A/C Evaporator...
JFP in PA replied to creekman's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
I don't understand where he is getting his data from, but unless physically damaged in some way, they are pretty long lived..... -
Seems a bit low, I would strongly recommend getting the battery load tested.
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Try 9133
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Way too low, should be around 14V.
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If you are going use anything on the input splines and throw out bearing collar, a light coating of white lithium grease will do the trick.
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If the dust collected around the IMS flange is dry, just clean it off and leave the flange alone. If that is all the crud built up in 58K miles, the IMS seals are doing OK.
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Quite often,the occasional MIL for both ABS and PSM turn out to be voltage related (weak battery and/or alternator). Get your battery load tested and have the alternator checked as well.
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Both LN Engineering and Jake Raby have moved away from direct support of the aftermarket (read DIY), primarily due to the simple fact that even though they supplied fully detailed instructions and specialized tooling, there are simply too many ways to screw up and only one way to do this correctly. And as nature always sides with the hidden flaw, which is this case tends to be those that either cannot, or will not, read and follow directions; they found themselves spending 90% of their time trying to unravel 10% of the IMS installs that went south. So they now tend to be less forth coming on information. Get the correct instructions, read them, and follow them. To do otherwise may be to dig yourself a hole that maybe difficult to get out of…………..
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If you intend to remove the IMS cover flange, you need to prep the engine as though you were going to remove the bearing itself (crank locked at TDC, cams locked, tensioners removed, etc.). If you do not do this and remove the cover flange, the shaft will be pulled to one side and you will never get the flange back on again. If the cover flange shows no signs of leakage, I'd leave it alone.
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Believe me; they will feel a whole lot different when the metal impeller starts boring a hole in the engine cases, filling the cooling system with fine metal filings that are nearly impossible to get out of the system. Even if you could clean up the mess, and the cases aren’t totally destroyed, the new water pump will not be able to move the coolant effectively due to the damage (the gap behind the impeller is now too large), and the car will want to run hotter than it already does. It is not about OEM vs. aftermarket, but it is about not killing things unnecessarily…….
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Then take a look a the Durametric software for Porsche, it won't run off a phone, but it is by far the best sofware available for a Porsche short of the PIWIS system.
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Some of the 996's suffered from out of round openings in the case where the RMS sits (Porsche actually developed a tool to check the cases to see if the opening is round or not), which will continue to leak oil after replacing the RMS. Unfortunately, when you find a car with this problem, the out of round condition cannot be fixed, the engine has to be replaced. That said, one of the biggest problems with the new PTFE RMS seal is that people do not know how to correctly install them; they are very susceptible to leaks from something as small as a finger print getting on them, and they should not be installed with any type of sealer (the sealer actually works against the new seal and causes it to leak). There was a very detailed article on the new seal, installation problems and failure causes in "Excellence" magazine a year or two back. It also showed how to test the case opening and examples of cases that will never seal. Black smoke is ususally a sign of an over rich mixture, but it is usually not a fatal problem and would also usually throw codes as well.
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You should not need any "prodding", it should slide right out. How are you supporting the engine while removing the gearbox?
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The bottle may have hit a wiring connector under the seat and either disconnected it or left it loose.
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Probably one of the cheapest sources is Sunset Porsche in Beaverton, OR.
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We do not use anything except the OEM Porsche coolant; it has proven to have a very long life (we have seen it go 8 years without issue) and do an excellent job. It is also not all that expensive, and readily available. It is also well known to have compatibility issues with some aftermarket products, which can lead to a gelatinous mess. Most shops are aware of this and stay with what is known to work, and like us will only add distilled water to any car that they do not know for a fact has the OEM coolant in it.