JFP in PA

Jeff, I disagree with you a little. I recently read about this from Brad Penn Oil (semi synthetic oil): Thanks for using our Brad Penn® oils. The ‘shelf life’ of a product such as motor oil is dependent upon a number of factors that make each situation unique. We can, however, offer some ‘general’ guidelines and comments. Storage conditions are the key to product preservation and quality. Unopened plastic quarts of motor oil stored indoors in a cool, dry environment (preferably not in direct contact with concrete or other moisture-porous materials – i.e. stored off the floor on shelves, on pallets, on blocks, etc.), free of excess heat and humidity and not subjected to wide ambient temperature fluctuations typically remain suitable for use during an average storage period of 3 years. Sitting idle for long periods of time without agitation (like sitting static on a shelf during storage) is one of the most stressing of situations for a motor oil. Also, it is a little known fact that the plastic bottles typically used for packaging motor oil (i.e. HDPE – High Density Polyethylene) are not totally impervious to moisture infiltration from the environment. Therefore when stored in areas of high humidity like damp basements or in non-climate controlled garages or sheds in areas of the country where ambient humidity is high during long periods of time, the product quality can be jeopardized. Opened and partial containers of product are more susceptible to contamination when stored under unfavorable conditions. Obviously the ideal situation is to purchase only as much product as will be used immediately, but as we all know this is not always practical. This is where the correct storage procedures come into play. One further note….when the stored product container(s) is opened you should take careful note of the color and consistency of the oil as it flows out. Motor oil should be clear and bright and of uniform consistency. Visual indication of possible moisture contamination and/or product separation are ‘streaks’ of different, darker colored material in the pour stream or lighter ‘cream colored’ streaks due to moisture. Thank you once again for your use of our fine line of Brad Penn® products. If you have any additional questions please call our Technical Service department at (814) 368-1200. As mentioned in the original post, the HDPE bottles that motor oil is packaged in ARE NOT totally impervious to moisture infiltration, even if the bottle is sealed. Exterior moisture from the atmosphere like high humidity in damp basements or climates where humidity is high a large number of days each year, the moisture can enter between the molecules of the plastic bottle and also through the non-hermetically sealed cap and liner. The longer the exposure to such conditions (i.e. the longer the oil is stored under these conditions) the more likely the moisture contamination will infiltrate the sealed bottle. The reason it was mentioned that the bottles shouldn’t be stored in direct contact with concrete but should ideally be stored off the floor on pallets, shelves, etc. is the fact that unless properly and completely sealed, concrete will allow moisture from the dirt base underneath to penetrate and come into direct contact with the porous plastic bottle……hence the concern. As an example, have you ever tried to store a cardboard box directly on an unsealed concrete floor for any length of time……what happens? Moisture from the concrete floor causes deterioration of the cardboard lattice structure, and sometimes even mold and mildew form on the cardboard. That was the reference to the concrete issue in the earlier post. Thanks for allowing the clarification. I’m not really sure where their concern over moisture permeability in HDPE comes from, but HDPE is used to make bottles for fruit juice, milk, water, kitchen cleansing products and even furniture (It has been used in recent years for garden furniture as it resists the weather and can be cleaned very easily). Even in the form of thin film, HDPE is considered to have very low moisture or even gas permeability, which is one of the reasons it is used as a barrier film in the construction of high moisture prone areas, such as behind the plasterboard in bathroom walls to keep moisture from the shower getting into the insulation and defeating its R value. Probably even more telling is the fact that a quick look around the shop finds just about everything comes in HDPE containers, including all Castrol, Mobil 1 and Joe Gibbs oils, and most notably many brands of brake fluids, which are highly hydroscopic, meaning they attract and absorb moisture quickly, as opposed to oil which is hydrophobic and does not want to absorb water. I am unaware of any concerns about moisture absorption through the HDPE being expressed by the manufacturers of these products as long as the package’s original seal is intact, but have noted that some express concerns about high moisture environments deteriorating the adhered labels on the HDPE containers, or the secondary packaging. In fact, both the MSDS for both Castrol and Mobil1 full synthetics say nothing about moisture in their sections on product storage, and they are in HDPE. Perhaps Brad Penn has particular issue related to their semi-synthetics formula or the type of HDPE packaging they use. But in any case, in all the years I’ve been at this, I have never encountered motor oil that absorbed water, even back when most oils came in spiral wound cardboard containers with metal end caps (yes, I'm that old....).

Start the car and let it idle, try and remove the oil filler cap in the rear trunk. If the AoS is good, the cap should come off with little effort and the car should start to idle funny. If it is very difficult to get the oil cap off, the AoS is toast.

In general, it is possible to mix full synthetics from different manufacturer’s; exactly what properties you would end up with is a matter of speculation, but mix oils of the same type (e.g.: full synthetics) would cause no real harm. Stored oil will not pick up moisture; oil by nature of its composition is hydrophobic, meaning oil is not compatible or misible with water, and therefore incapable of absorbing it. A real problem, however, is that the additive packages tend to separate out from the blend if stored too long. Once separated, these additives cannot easily be re-blended. All oil carry a date of manufacture code, an internet search for a particular brand will define how the code works. That said, I would not use an oil that is more than two to three years old, depending upon the brand. Newer type oils (low ZDDP types) are worse in this respect than older synthetics. .

Porsche first released the spring assisted style, and then promptly issued a TSB concerning which type of timing chains they should be used on (roller or non-roller), which confused a lot of people. Being Porsche, they then re-updated the tensioners yet again without any explaination. I would get the latest update type for your exact engine year (check with a good parts department like Sunset Porsche to verify which style you should be using) and stick with them.

With regard to "incorrect information", are you a.k.a. "Boxterra"? Simple 'yes' or 'no' question. Please clarify. Thanks! Yes, he is..................

Fogging is not necessary, and could actually lead to problems. Do not be concerned about not starting the engine, that is the best way to store it as intermittent short running stints can be quite bad for it. Prep it and just let it sit.

Excuse me Stefan (or should I say "Boxterra"), it is not a personal attack (your favorite defensive claim when anyone disagrees with you or disproves your point), but a "full disclosure" statement of fact that can be searched out by anyone so interested. You have gone at it, hammer and tong, with both Jake Raby and Charles Navarro over just about every product they make, as well as anyone else that thinks they might have an interesting idea (including the magnetic drain plugs), over on the old Porsche Pete's Boxster Board as well as the forum you moderate (Pedro's Board). Considering the internet records of these exchanges, I think you should be careful about calling anyone's arguments "fallacious", particularly when you have installed one the LN products you are most publicly dismissive of in the engine in your own car............

Simple: Some of us recognize why many engine builders install them, why they are found in applications as diverse as air compressors and jet aircraft; while others like to believe that anything not created by the OEM has to be a commercially motivated fraud perpetrated on the ignorant, unwashed masses to separate them from their money. This second group sometimes also has a publically well-documented axe to grind with the manufacturer that makes them................

I'd still suggest the LN, it also uses a very powerful Neodymium magnet that actually makes it had to pull off a ferrous surface like the side of tool box. More than strong enough, and still way cheaper than the Dimple unit...............

PIWIS or Durametric software are your only options..............

Shops that repair these gearboxes are specialty shops; there are only a few of them around. I know of none in the Atlanta area. The two shops that I know of that have done excellent repairs/overhauls in the past are GBox out of Boulder, CO; and Lufteknic out of Richmond, VA. We have used GBox on a couple of occasions and they have been fine. Both have websites. You would pull the gear box out and either ship it to them for repair, or they also have an exchange program where you buy one already done and ship yours back as a core. GBox typically turns the trans around in a couple of days. While your gearbox is out, it would be an excellent time to do your IMS/RMS updates, new clutch if necessary, and the AoS as it is out in the open with the gearbox out.

Why not have the trans repaired? There are a couple shops that specialize in this.......

Every so often, someone brings up this subject. Water-less coolant has always been a solution in search for a problem to solve. It is really hard to beat pure water’s ability to conduct and transfer heat. Unfortunately, water boils at relatively low temperatures, and it freezes at 32F. Water is also fairly corrosive. But when the water is pure (as in distilled), and mixed with certain other compounds (modern antifreeze), it not only is an excellent automotive coolant, it is relatively free of corrosive properties for a very long time (we have seen properly maintained Porsches that were 7 and 8 years old with a couple hundred thousand miles on the coolant, and the coolant system was both free of corrosion and still able to go to -40F before freezing). The water pipes issue, like the water pump impeller problems, is more related to the materials they are made from than from the type of coolant in the system. Switching to a ridiculously priced water-less coolant would probably not get you anything other than a thinner wallet to sit on. As someone that services these vehicles every day, I can assure you that at some point your cooling system is going to have to be drained for maintenance work (leaks, failed water pumps, thermostats, etc.). Having to refill it with some magical fluid that cost north of $50 a gallon (and think about how many gallons your system holds), when there is a significantly lower cost and excellently performing alternative is nonsense….

Suggest you find a new mechanic, he is dead wrong on this one. Brake fluids are “hydroscopic”, meaning they will absorb moisture. Moisture in the braking system will degrade how well the car can stop as it boils before the brake fluid. Any moisture in the braking system will also lead to terminal corrosion of some very expensive parts, such as the ABS/PSM pumps and control systems. Your brake and clutch hydraulic system (the car shares a common reservoir for both) should be completely flushed every two years, or as Loren pointed out, sooner if the car is tracked, regardless of where you live. A liter of ATE Gold or Blue costs less than $20, your ABS system costs thousands; you make the call…….

Buy the LN magnetic drain plug, it is very well made and does an excellent job picking up any ferrous debris in the engine. It is also an excellent way to check for pending problems when doing an oil change. We install a lot of these; they are well worth the nominal cost................ The "Dimple" unit is also over priced.

To prevent any chance of the timing moving, it would be a good idea to lock the cams as well.

Unfortunately, the TPMS is a federally mandated safety equipment item, like seat belt warning systems and air bags. Dealers here do not want to get involved and accept the liability for disabling them.

Typically, the timing jumps because of valve spring pressure against the cams, which will try to rotate the engine if everything is not locked down.

I think this is more involved than you may think; to be safe, you need to lock the engine down using the same procedure’s used to change the rear IMS bearing. You can read more about that here: http://www.lnengineering.com/imsretrofit.pdf

I’m probably going to start a feud with this, but here goes: Don’t use the set screw procedure. While many have been successful going this route, many more have not. First of all, the set screws do not provide adequate protection against the cams jumping time, particularly in a three chain motor. Secondly, the rear IMS shaft gear is press fit; too much force by the set screws can dislodge the gear, which requires disassembly of the engine to correct. LN Engineering and Jake Raby developed a procedure that totally eliminates the chance of the cam timing moving by locking the engine at TDC, locking the cams in place with fixtures, and removing the chain tensioners to facilitate pulling and replacing the IMS bearing. This procedure works, every time, and without any drama. You can read more about it here: http://www.lnenginee...imsretrofit.pdf

Most TPMS require that the controller be "reset" when a sensor has been replaced, or even moved (as when tires are rotated front to rear on more plebian vehicles). These systems are a major pain in the butt as well as a real expense to the owner. I would be willing to bet that your right rear had a premature battery failure; we see this fairly regularly.

I'd take it back. If you go to their battery website, you will find that they do not list batteries for the 997, only the "Pepper" or Panamera..........

The Ctek has multiple advantages; first, and perhaps most important, all Ctek units have a desulfation step as part of their charge profiles. Sulfating is one of the principal reasons why a battery dies prematurely, running this step every time the Ctek cycles is critical to lengthening the battery's life. No Battery Tenders ever made have this desulfation step in their systems. And, yes, Ctek does have the correct lighter socket adaptor to utilize Porsche's ability to charge through the lighter. Ctek also has a variety of other adaptors, including ones that permanently attach to the battery if you want to go that way. Ctek also makes Porsche’s branded maintainer, but I would not buy one from them as they are way over priced and exactly the same as Ctek’s 3300 model, which you can buy online much cheaper from Amazon and others.

At some point, the accountants at Porsche noticed that they were "giving away" an extra couple of inches of the + battery cable, and ordered them shortened immediately, making the switch to an Optima require a longer (about 2-3 inches) cable. Yours is probably one of them. You can get the longer cable from either Yellow Dog, or your local parts store, they are a stocking item.