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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    We have been collecting UoA's on several brands and weights of oils for years. Mobil 1's problems began several years back when we began to notice lower initial TBN's, very high TBN drop off with low mileage, poor ability to "stay in grade" with light use & low street miles, very poor film strengths, as well as other issues. We also noted that several grades (15W-50, once a staple for the air cooled crowd) lost all ACEA ratings. So it's not just one Mobil 1 weight, it's the entire product line. Mobil 1 used to get great test results, but that is no longer the case. As the result of Mobil 1's change of direction, we stopped using the entire product line and now use a 10W-40 synthetic from another company (we tested their 5W-40, which was not bad, but the performance of their 10W-40 was superior) that continues to demonstrate excellent UoA's, even after hard track use, as our standard offering for water cooled models. We still get to test M1 products, often from new cars coming in for their first oil change, but things have not improved for Mobil 1, particularly the 0W-40 the factory seems to like. You can continue to believe in Porsche’s vaunted "approved oil list" if you like; we will continue to trust the data we collect............
  2. JFP in PA
    "What is wrong with 0W?" Other than the simple fact that some 0W weight oils, and specifically Mobil 1 0W-40, demonstrate very poor used oil analysis data, particularly in terms of TBN fall off after 3-4 k miles of everyday street driving……………probably nothing.
  3. JFP in PA
    If you use an ACEA A3, B3, B4 rated full synthetic (preferably not a 0W-anything weight), you do not need additives. And no oil is any better than any other when it comes to the IMS bearing; that bearing fails because it is sealed and does not get lubrication from the engine oil......
  4. JFP in PA
    The reality is that even if the car is warmed up, and sitting level on a lift, it is still dribbling oil 15 min. after you take the drain plug out. As we probably do 75-100 oil changes a month, you can bet that we don’t go take a coffee break every time to let every last drop out. It simply is not feasible……….. Put it up on the ramps, pull the plug, and let it sit for 15-30 min. Put the plug back, refill the sump, and get on with life…………….
  5. JFP in PA
    Contact Sunset Porsche, just got one from them........................
  6. JFP in PA
    Kenn: If you get the LN Engineering Thermostat with housing, it only involves removing and replacing four 10mm bolts and the gasket. The most time consuming part will be taken up by refilling the coolant that was drained in the process. That's an easy task if you have a Ulift vacuum tool by Uview. If you can source a 160 degree thermostat directly from Mahler, it's the same process, but then you have to remove (un-spring) the old thermostat from your OEM housing and then insert the new thermostat in its place. This requires a "special Porsche tool", but it's a tool that you can easily improvise. The difference is in the price, with the LN Engineering thermostat and housing costing around $200. Again, if you can source the thermostat by itself, it should cost considerably less. Regards, Maurice. Have you been able to actually source the 160 degree stat from Mahler? Reason I ask is that all of the 160 stats i have seen, including those from LN are MotoRad units. I contacted MotoRad directly and was told that unit was "not available" in the US................... You should also be aware that LN makes the thermostat available separately (no housing), but only in ten packs (which includes the replacement tool), which is cheaper in the long run for a shop or possible "group buy". Just a thought....
  7. JFP in PA
    No; if anything, I would expect MPG to go up (slight mileage improvement has been reported but not confirmed) due to improved thermal efficiency. Before and after dyno runs have noted slight, but measurable HP and torque numbers as well. Remember, the reason for the higher temperature OEM stat is for emissions, not performance............... And, your DME has more than enough “bandwidth” to bring the fuel/air back into spec without out any emission of inspection problems.
  8. JFP in PA
    We have multiple customers running the 160 stat, and I have one in my own car as well. To date, I have not seen one downside to the lower temp stat, which also happens to be the same temp range used on the GT2 and 3 cars from the factory....................
  9. JFP in PA
    First, I would comment that whoever first told you about the ripped boots did not reinforce the potential damage that would occur. With the boots torn, the grease lubricating the CV joints can come out (an usually makes one Hell of mess under the car), after which water will get in and slowly destroy the CV. You should not have continued to run the car with the boots ripped. Second, it is usually cheaper to replace the axel assemblies once the CV’s have failed then to remove, disassemble and repair them; the issue is the amount of time it take to do the axel assembly rebuild. Now comes the fun part: A lot of shops have been replacing the OEM axels with aftermarket rebuilds out of China. These units are cheap, but nowhere near the quality of the OEM units. So specifically ask about the source……… In any case, this is going to cost you unless you are ready and able to do it yourself………..
  10. JFP in PA
    On a lift in a well equipped shop, 4-6 hours total is realistic; if the dealer (who must be taking a nap during the process) quotes 17.6 hours, you need another dealer..........
  11. JFP in PA
    Porsche’s so-called approved list is the last place I would look for quality oils. Time, and time again, independent used oil tests have show what a load of crap their premier approved oil, Mobil1 0W-40, really is. I would look for a10W-40 or 5W-40 full synthetic (we don’t use any Mobil 1 oils, or “0W-anything”, haven’t for years, and our customer’s cars are all the better for it) for the M96 engine, with ACEA A3, B3, & B4 ratings. There are plenty to choose from, and most are actually cheaper.
  12. JFP in PA
    Problem is that you have a cable, a hunk of wire, but not the software needed; which only lives in the PIWIS........
  13. JFP in PA
    I have Red Tops in two cars; one is over eight years old and load tests just fine, the other is three years old, also test fine.
  14. JFP in PA
    That is the correct torque; best way to do it is with an inch pound torque wrench, 7 foot pounds = 84 inch pounds, which is about mid scale on most inch pound wrenches..................
  15. JFP in PA
    Do not attempt to remove the Tip without the converter; you are asking for large problems if you attempt this. :o
  16. JFP in PA
    Jake, do you have a decent source for the two locking pins (tool #9595) required for the IMS refit; or the flywheel lock (#9538/1 engine in the car)? Having one Hell of a time sourcing these................ I am making more tools... Forget trying to get the stuff from Porsche, they don't even know what engine the tools fit! Let me know when you have them ready..............and thanks.
  17. JFP in PA
    Jake, do you have a decent source for the two locking pins (tool #9595) required for the IMS refit; or the flywheel lock (#9538/1 engine in the car)? Having one Hell of a time sourcing these................
  18. JFP in PA
    You can do the work you describe with the engine in; however, considering that you apparently intend to remove the gear box, pulling the engine out (comes out the bottom) seem to be a good idea and does not require that much more effort. The M96 is much easier to work on when it is on a stand and you can rotate it to work on various components. Suggest this would be a very good time to nail some quality upgrades like the IMS retrofit, the larger oil cooler (if you don’t already have one), the 160 stat, perhaps a new water pump, and even the new oil pump drive that LN/Raby are working on. I would also consider maintenance items such as coil packs, new plug tubes/seals, etc.
  19. JFP in PA
    Ah! So it did not come from Porsche, but from Bosch. As many of our clients do not use (or want) Bosch plugs; I still stand by my statement. And, in any case, using anti seize, even on Bosch plugs, does not cause any problems.....................it simply becomes a "belt & suspenders" application. I'll find one from Porsche - have some patience I have other things to do.... and this is not on the top of my list ;) Take your time, as I said, I've heard this before but have never seen any documentation to support it from Porsche, so I'm very interested to see what you turn up....
  20. JFP in PA
    I cannot say that I have ever encountered an anti seize application that created a problem; on plugs or any other fastener for that matter. As I mentioned in my reply to Lorne, not everyone is enamored with Bosch plugs; and we have had excellent life and performance from other brands in our customer base. We also only use a small amount of anti seize, which is spread out evenly over the plug treads prior to insertion and being torqued to specs. We also regularly use a bore scope, which allows us to see any build up on the cylinder head threads; but I cannot honestly say we have ever seen any, so I don’t see that as an issue either.
  21. JFP in PA
    Ah! So it did not come from Porsche, but from Bosch. As many of our clients do not use (or want) Bosch plugs; I still stand by my statement. And, in any case, using anti seize, even on Bosch plugs, does not cause any problems.....................it simply becomes a "belt & suspenders" application.
  22. JFP in PA
    Show me where they say that, not that I accept it in the first place, but humor me and show me................... I have had people tell this more than once; and as much as I respect the knowledge base of Loren (and others), I am yet to see a Porsche document reference where they tell you not to use anti seize.................
  23. JFP in PA
    No, anti seize will not cause the plugs to loosen; more than likely, they were never properly torqued in the first place. The issue with the plugs is you have a steel plug housing threaded into an alloy head in an area that see a lot of thermal swings. That is a recipe for problems as the two metals expand and contract at differing rates. The use of anti seize (in small quantities) on the treads assures that the plug will release and unthread without problems when the time comes.
  24. JFP in PA
    Not that I am aware of - Porsche says do not put anti-seize on the spark plugs. So, if folks are putting anti-seize on I would try to clean it off. I have never had a spark plug come loose from a Porsche in the 33 years I have been working on them - and I have never used anti-seize. You just plain don't need it on Porsche alloy heads. And in over thirty years of putting plugs in Porsche’s, we never let one out of the shop without anti seize on the plugs……..like other shops, we have seen too many instances where the plugs without it galled and ruined the plug threads. In all those years, we have never had a “come back” because the plugs became lose, and never had a plug gall on us……………….
  25. JFP in PA
    Then I would get the Amsoil out of it and put the factory fill in; Porsche uses a rather unique gear oil spec that no one seems to have a match for. As the factory stuff is a full synthetic, available and not all that expensive if you shop around; why use another oil that may or may not be compatible with some of the gearbox components...............
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