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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. I am not upset, I just ran the numbers and this product just seemed more than a bit excessively priced............
  2. Let's look at that: The LN engineering unit sells for about $595 (retail) and is projected to last 40-50K miles (about the typical clutch life in manual M96 cars). So you would go through three LN units in about 120-15K miles, at a cost of $1785. Most of the cars I see in my shop do less than 10K miles a year, and many do less than 2K. Using 6.5K as a very generous "average mileage" for the cars I see, and 40K for the expected time to replacement for the LN unit (at clutch replacement time), you would be replacing the LN unit (on average) every 6 years or so, or three times over around 18 years; well beyond the life expectancy of these cars. This Spanish unit costs nearly the same amount as three LN units for this one unit, and has a "warrantee" for three years............and you view this as "fair"? I would be the first to say the design is "interesting", but the warranty, and the fact it is from a small foreign manufacturer does not impress me, nor does the rather extreme pricing……….
  3. At today's Euro conversion rate, that is nearly $1,700.................
  4. I think you would have to find a dealer with too much time on their hands to get this “training”. An alternative would be to join your local PCA chapter and attend their events; I’m sure you will find several people willing to help you understand and get the most out of your car………..
  5. If you want a better made filter with molded plastic end caps and cage, finer pore size and at a lower price, look at the Wix/NAPA Gold 57211:
  6. Consdering that many dealers have used Techron for a lot of years, you won't have any issues...........
  7. Keropur is BASF's answer to Chevron's Techron, nothing more..............
  8. I have been through this "crow's foot conundrum" argument about a dozen times now; if you do not compensate for the change in the length of the lever caused by the additional length of the added extension, you will over torque the fastener.......................and if you do not want to believe me, check with Snap-On and just about anyone else that makes torques measurement devices, all of them say the same thing..............
  9. No, Durametric or PIWIS............
  10. The big difference is that the extension shown above does increase the effective length of the torque wrench. As a result, the actual torque applied to the bolt will be higher than the setting on the torque wrench. The extension shown in the above picture is called a crowfoot extension, which can be handy when trying to torque hard-to-reach bolts. You must, however, use a formula to account for the length of the extension: wrench setting = desired torque x wrench length / (wrench length + extension length) For example lets say that the length of the torque wrench is 18 inches, and the length of the extension is 6 inches. The desired torque is 180 ft-lbs. Wrench setting = 180 x 18 / (18 + 6) = 180 x 18 / 24 = 135 ft-lbs. If the torque wrench is set to 135 ft-lbs, the actual torque applied to the bolt will be 180 ft-lbs.
  11. Only problem is that when I contacted Mobil 1's tech department, their email response was; "Currently, Mobil 1 does not supply a suitable gear oil for your application"............... Use the OEM stuff, which is a full synthetic...............
  12. Techron is an excellent product, we use it in our customer cars all the time. Keeps the injection system up to snuff with no unwanted side effects. You really only need to use it once a year.
  13. Beats shelling out $5K for one..............
  14. Try Googling "borescope rentals", those two are only the ones I've had experience with (Alice in Wonderland isn't the only one that has had to peer down the rabbit hole a time or two)..............
  15. I think you are going to have fun finding a bore scope small enough to go down the oil feed gallery. Most automotive bore scopes are small enough to fit thru a spark plug hole, but way too big for your purpose. May want to look at someone that rents testing equipemnt to the scientific community or tool and die makers, like Electro Rent or Advanced Inspection Technologies.............. AIT Electro Rent
  16. Unfortunately, that is not known to positively be the case to my knowledge. I've seen several claims that Audi/VW/Mercedes/BMW/other brands (choose one or more….) coolants are the same; what I have never seen is a lab analysis to support the claim….just suppositions………and and the associated potential risks.. Some have had good luck using non-OEM coolants, others have not been so lucky. Considering the consequences if you are wrong, why take the risk over a few bucks?
  17. From Ross Tech's website: "Porsche: Although Porsche SE and Volkswagen AG have taken steps to merge, Porsche still does diagnostics quite differently than VW so VCDS does not do OEM diagnostics on most Porsche systems. However, we've heard good things about Durametric's Diagnostic Tool for Porsche".
  18. The problem with bore scopes has always been "the smaller the probe diameter, the bigger te pice tag"..............
  19. The factory coolant is readily available for about $22-24/gal (retail) by a board sponsor (Sunset). It is a well known product that demonstrated excellent performance with no problems (as long as it isn't mixed with some of the aftermarket stuff that leads to gelling). Why would you bother looking for something else?
  20. 3M has a special product called "Plastic and Emblem Adhesive" that is used to glue metal and plastic emblems onto painted surfaces. Just about all the body shops use it, as do the OEM's. The product is #08061 and dries clear. Any autobody supply, as well as many NAPA stores carry it...............
  21. Another, and considerably closer soruce would be Carnewal in Belgium Carnewal
  22. Problem is that this setup will cause issues on newer cars (built after 1996) if it cuts power off to the DME (and if it does not, you still have power drain taking place), which will then lose anything the DME has learned, and will reset the DME's "I/M Readiness" mode, meaning the car will not pass inspection in most states as the emissions section will read "not ready" until the car has driven multiple cycles/miles. Charge and load test the battery; it is good, get and use a maintainer. It's one Hell of a lot cheaper than a $100+ device that creates more problems than you had to begin with………..
  23. The Tip is not unlike most any other automatic, the torque converter has to be unbolted from the flex plate and secured prior to pulling the box out, otherwise it is pretty much the same deal.In reality, you do not have to move the Tip away from the engine as much as a manual box, as the alignment lip on the converter is much shorter than the input spline on a manual gear box.
  24. To service the clutch or change out torque converters, you save a fair amount of time (and money) by just pulling the transmission. Does not matter if you are on a lift or jack stands, pulling the entire assembly is more involved and is usually not necessary unless there are complicating factors like all wheel drive units or a need to perform other work that becomes easier with the engine out……….
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