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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. You cannot mount the factory "S" rear rotors on a base because the S car uses different suspension components (hubs) and have a different e-brake diameter (caused by the use of the 6 speed gearbox). Having covered that, you can obtain "S" diameter rotors from Brembo that are internally machined to "base" e-brake diameters, allowing the use of "S" brakes on a base car without changing over the suspension items (read big $). They simply bolt right on, no other mods. If memeory serves, the trick rotors are about $270 pair.......
  2. Not to place too fine a point on it, but the DME P codes start at P0100..............that said, I think you are refering to the Porsche "FC" code #30 which is the same as a P1157/1158 code, which is either the ECT (engine coolant temp sensor) failure, or a wiring issue involving the ECT..................there is a diagnostic procedure that measures the resistance across the ECT (2.2-2.6 kohms across pins 1 & 2 on the ECT sensor @ 20 C); if it passes, you need to check the ECT sensor harness for a short...................
  3. only I like the Actron 9145, but be aware that it will not clear "protected Porsche codes" (ABS, airbags, etc); only option there is a laptop and the Durametric software package..............
  4. I'd worry about #49, "No communication with PST II", this is an indication the the DME unit may be acting up and/or dead...........
  5. That's fine; however, I'd rather spend $40, use my stock cables, have the battery centered, and a machined and brushed-finish aluminum mounting plate with all stainless steel fasteners that yeilds a pristine installation rather than some pieces of crudely cut metal and some plastic bits...................but maybe that's just my perspective........... Again, you've missed the point of the thread. The DIY section is for instructions on DIY projects. I'd suggest you start a new thread somewhere else if you want to defend your solution. Allow me end my obvious interruption of your "look how cheap I can be" chest-beating session by also commenting that your installation will most likely also fail a tech/safety inspection for any DE, Auto X or SCCA event as well............but go right ahead and enjoy your parsimoniousness………………..OK, now the stage is all yours………………….
  6. That's fine; however, I'd rather spend $40, use my stock cables, have the battery centered, and a machined and brushed-finish aluminum mounting plate with all stainless steel fasteners that yeilds a pristine installation rather than some pieces of crudely cut metal and some plastic bits...................but maybe that's just my perspective...........
  7. I Googled Yellow Dog Motorsports and got some quarter midget site about a kid's family team. How do you order the kit? To my knowledge, they do not have a website yet. But you can reach them at YELLOWDOGMOTORSP@aol.com, or at Yellow Dog Motorsports 801 E. 59th Street Davenport, IA 52807 (563) 386-0675. Ask for Jan, (the owner), he is very nice to do business with. He has two kits, one with a plastic mounting plate, one in machined aluminum, both are beautifully made and include all stainless steel fasteners. I have the aluminum unit, and mounting the 34R to it and then installing it into the car took about 5 min. And yes, it costs more than $2, but is well worth the investment. I've even had my dealer ask about where I got it as his parts manager wanted to get a couple of kits for stock......the kits are that nice........
  8. You do realize that Yellow Dog Motorsports makes these in kit form (everything needed to do a 5 min install included) either in plastic or aluminum.....................................
  9. After going thru the greif to get the unit out, I'd rather put in a new one..........................
  10. Along with new lits, you need two other things: A new insurance company, and a lawyer to go after your old one. Unless the rules have changed, they have to replace what was taken, and not with the cheapest substitue they can find.......
  11. MSD's claim to fame is "multi-spark" systems that increase the voltage output and fire the plugs 5-7 times within the time frame a normal system would fire the plug once. I've used their systems on race cars, where the extreme compression ratios and engine RPM ranges can (and do) benefit from this technology, but see no real advantage to them for street applications as the coil pack systems these cars have from the factory work just fine. You should also know that MSD systems operate at very high electrical frequencies, which reek interference havoc on car stereo systems........................
  12. Brembo Kit: 894.5986R Boxster 97-03 Front & Rear minimum wheel size: 17" Front rotor diam: 12.5" 318 mm Cost : $3,250 (US$) Enjoy!
  13. Because the factory "S" uses the six speed, the rear hubs (and several other components) are different, including the rotor and ebrake size. While a base car can be converted over to all these "S" components, the price to do so is totally outrageous; hence Brembo introduced the "Big Reds" kit to change the base car over to "S" brakes by using the special rear rotors. The total kit used to cost in the $3K (US) range and had every possible part you would need, including braided stainless steel brake lines, which are a very nice additon to any car. The price for the kit was less than half the price for the OEM components to get the car ready to accept the OEM "S" brakes set up. As I've mentioned, I have one on my Boxster, and have installed two other kits, it is a simple bolt on swap, but expensive...............
  14. I do not konw who this "specialist" is, but he is not correct on this issue. I have the Brembo kit on my car, I've installed it on two others, there is no "fitment" issues, no "offset" issues or need to change ANYTHING ELSE to put them on the car, period. They simply replace the exsiting rotors, with the new caplipers ("S" version) and bolt on. You need to stop worrying about it, buy the correct parts and get on with it............................They fit!!!!!
  15. The AOS is Porsche's answer to the PCV valve on most cars. It has been a weak point, and there have been several posts over on PPBB about updated parts and DIY fix-its. Not hard, but requires the right replacements parts and some time to to it correctly. Suggest you do a "AOS" search on PPBB.............
  16. You need to contact Bremo's master distributor in the US: Race Technologies at http://www.racetechnologies.com Yes, a full conversion kit exisits, I have one installed and have done two others, they are a bolt in swap with the kit; which includes the "special" rear rotors that are machined to the base e-brake size, stainless steel lines, new caliper bolts, etc. But be aware the the kit is not cheap.................. Oh, and one kit was purchased from Suncoast, so I have no idea why they are "not sure is it possible"........
  17. Brembo makes a special rotor for the rear, "S" diameter & cross drilled so it will accept the calipers, but the ebrake drum is machined to "base" specs, so it will bolt right on...................
  18. The drain plug is a weirdo, it requires a Hazet 2567-16 socket tool to remove it. I purchased one from Maryland Metrics (online tool house), costs about $29 delivered. None of the "ususal" tool sources (Sears, SnapOn, etc.) were able to help...................
  19. Easiest way is with a plastic butter knife or pot scraper. Just insert it from the bottom and pull the panel towards you, it will pop right off, with no damage. B)
  20. Time to break down and buy an OBD II scanner..........you can get a basic unit that will display and clear codes for about $60..........................
  21. Besides which, if the MIL light is on, you will need to wither go to dealer or someone with a PST II to reset it.
  22. You may also want to give Justin a call at Brandywine Porsche, or email him at jlane@Brandywineporsche.com
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