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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. What transmission is in the car? Do you have a photo looking directly up at where it is leaking? I am having difficulty orienting what we are looking at.............
  2. Hard to tell from the perspective of your photo, but looks like the coolant guide assembly, which is weird because all the ones I have seen are plastic. Is this photo taken from the water pump or flywheel side?
  3. Looks like this: Water guide housing Has a couple of seals on it, and it is a whole lot of fun to get out. Yours looks metallic, all the ones I have seen are plastic.
  4. Welcome to RennTech You don't, you will need access to a PIWIS system to do the coding.
  5. You give your turbo to a valet? Brave man.....................😮
  6. We have seen a few, and while the turbo cars seem to get the most out of reprogramming in dyno testing, a couple of observations: Some reflashes cause connectivity issues with some systems in the cars when trying to do OBD port diagnostics. We have seen multiple cases of cars that would not go through IM Readiness tests required in many states for emission inspections. Both of the above observed problems disappeared when the cars were re-flashed back to factory. Multiple owners have commented that they really didn't see all that much "seat of the pants" improvements when compared to the dyno numbers.
  7. If you are referring to the Boxster door template mentioned above in post by atmorris, it is a PDF file, I just downloaded and opened it without any issues; the original guide from the first posting has been removed by the OP and is no longer available.
  8. You didn't say what year and model you are dealing with, but in general, the heater core is removed from the under the driver's side dashboard. It is located right in the center of the vehicle above the transmission tunnel underneath the dashboard. The relay carrier, Immobilizer control unit, and a second control unit must be removed, hidden behind the driver's side lower dash panels. Good luck, this is a big project.
  9. Unfortunately, people play "the terminology game" on these parts; one exceedingly popular online parts peddler regularly lists parts as "from an OEM supplier", which is technically correct, but factually wrong. The supplier may supply Porsche parts for the taillights in one of their models, but in fact do not supply the cooling system part you are attempting to purchase, so while they are "an OEM supplier", saying that in relation to what you are trying to purchase is very misleading at a minimum. I would suggest you contact RennTech sponsor Sunset Porsche; great pricing and service, and you know the part is the real thing. 😉
  10. You have a leaking water pump. The only suggestion I can offer is to make sure the next one is a factory unit; we have seen too many aftermarket units fail prematurely.
  11. These tubes take a heat set to the rest of the system and are not as flexible as they were when new. You need to work with a hose removal spoon and free up the connections one at a time, they will eventually come loose. In this weather, being inside a warm garage helps as well.
  12. All of them. This is exactly why it is a good idea to regularly check the sump vacuum levels with a digital manometer. We always checked every car that came into the shop, regardless of why it was there; AOS has to be considered a consumable that needs to be monitored and replaced when necessary, like tires or brake pads, and prevents having to go through exactly what you are doing.
  13. Could be. In the earlier 986 cars, the five-speed fluid was unique to the five-speed due to the alloys used in the syncros, they may have changed that in the later cars. To be sure, I'd give them a call; Luke and the rest of the parts crew are always very helpful.
  14. Not off the top of my head, so I suggest calling a dealer for the number, and ONLY buying the fluid from a dealer, like board sponsor Sunset Porsche, as there are less than honest aftermarket outlets that claim their fluid is factory when it really isn't.
  15. Yes, the hoses are a pain to remove, but if they are not cleaned out, the car will continue to puff oil smoke until they are...............
  16. The six speeds use a different fluid than the five speeds do, and this is a place where using the factory fill is essential. Porsche uses trans fluids that are made to their specification's (they do not have any GL or API ratings), are fully synthetic products that are long lived and work very well in cold environments. A lot of people have tried aftermarket fluids, but came back to the factory stuff after experiencing problems.
  17. It has to be the Durametric Pro series to activate cruise control; the Enthusiast will activate the OBC, but not the cruise. The Pro does both.
  18. The biggest question is are the metal bits ferrous (can be picked up by a magnet)? If they are, the problem is serious.
  19. The post 2000 cars did not show the outside temp display until either the fourth stalk or some other switching method is installed. Nothing will appear if it is just activated without the stalk.
  20. Rebuilding the engine is questionable; it requires specialized tooling and knowledge, and there are only a small number of shops that can do this well. Same applies to block or cylinder head work. It is also going to be pricey, like in the $12-16K range. Porsche has stopped offering replacement engines for this car, but companies like RND, which is an LN Engineering affiliate, offer complete replacements for around $22K RND replacement engine for 1999 Boxster A used engine can be had for around $3 to 5K from wrecks.
  21. Like a lot of other people, you are focusing on price alone. First of all, looking at anything for a depreciating asset can hardly be considered as an investment, so I cannot see how the term applies.. And sure, there are other cheaper alternatives, and some of them might actually work for some period of time. But the IMS Solution is the only retrofit that has been purposely tested to engine failure during development, and is the only retrofit that can actually be removed from an engine that suffered some other catastrophic failure, such as a snapped connecting rod or a dropped valve, and reinstalled in a replacement engine without any problems. It has been run with the oil feed line disconnected for prolonged periods on a dyno with only minor wear visible, both because of the use of diamond like coating and annular oiling groves on the surfaces.. It is the only oil fed system that successfully eliminated flooding the IMS shaft with oil, which causes other problems. It is extremely well thought out and tested, and to my knowledge none has ever failed. So yes, it cost more than other alternatives, most better designed hardware usually does. A lot of people will tell you that there is no real difference between tools from Harbor Freight and Snap On, but those of us that use those tools to make our living will tell you the differences are profound, and choose accordingly. I personally own two installed Solutions that are years old and have never looked back or regretted choosing them over the lesser alternatives.
  22. Rather than a check list for you, it would be well considered to have a proper pre purchase inspection done by a qualified shop, which would generate a firm list of what needs to be done.
  23. Welcome to RennTech If your engine is original to the car, it should be a dual row bearing, but it never hurts to look before deciding. I would have to say I totally agree with LN's assessment on parts replacement, but I would also add replacing the longer chain paddles as well, and do the oil pump drive replacement at the same time. While several writeups have been done on completing a project like this with the engine still in the car, it is way easier and actually quicker to drop it out first. That gives you much better access, and you can go over everything else like replacing the water pump and installing a low temp thermostat while you are at it. When cam deviation values get this far out of spec, you have to remember it is due to wear, and it is not going to heal all by itself. Do the job right, and you will only do it once and get to enjoy the car for years to come. And if the car was in my shop, I would recommend going with the IMS Solution rather than the ceramic hybrid bearing. Good luck!
  24. "Interpretation' is the pathway to repair, the "definition" unfortunately is usually the very first line of that interpretation, and which most find very limiting, and almost cryptic. Just infuriating semantics, I know, but that is the way the system functions. Example: P0430 / Fault Code 45 -Cat conversion bank 2 - exceeds limit value Possible causes are: Exhaust leak Intake leak O2 sensor not working properly MAF Cat not working properly The full read out for the code would then go through how to evaluate and eliminate each of the possible causes and identify the final suspect(s).
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