Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,584
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    189

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. If you have a legitimate version, go to their website, click on "Downloads" and follow their instructions under the "software" section. And all updates for legitimate versions are totally free.........
  2. First of all, that version of Durametric qualifies as an antique and dates to August 2008, the current version is 6.6.3.5, so, I would start by updating the software. Second, most of these codes are communications issues, I would clear all of them and then see what comes back.
  3. Working from memory here as it has been a while, but it should be under "coding adaptations" and then under "steering col switch" where you change the value to "installed". Loren might want to jump in here, but certain car configurations like yours also require replacing the actual steering control module as well, which also must then be coded to the car....................
  4. 4 is preferred for these for the cars as it has a higher boiling point.
  5. You have some simple misfiring events, P0300 and P0301 say the same thing: P1319 Misfire, Emission Relevant Possible causes: - Fouled, faulty or incorrect spark plugs - Contact resistance - Loose contacts - Camshaft control poorly adjusted P1313 Misfire, Cylinder 1, Emission Relevant Look for: - Fouled, faulty or incorrect spark plugs - Contact resistance (broken coil pack) - Loose contacts
  6. Coding requires the use of a PIWIS system. The mirror issue requires some diagnostics; it may be the control switch, but that requires more investigation.
  7. The tire should be elevated while torquing wheels to spec, and yes, they should be done correctly.
  8. Check the sockets for any build up or corrosion, if there is, clean them up. Beyond that it is time to start testing for voltage at the correct times, and tracing wires for any defects.
  9. P0492 Secondary air injection system, bank 2 - below limit Possible causes: - Fuse F4 faulty - Open circuit to secondary air injection pump - Short circuit to ground in the lead to the secondary air injection pump - Secondary air injection pump relay mechanically faulty - Secondary air valve sluggish - Secondary air injection pump (air cleaner) blocked - Air hose to secondary air injection pump slipped off or is crushed - Secondary air injection pump faulty / stuck
  10. There are three of them, and they are not all the same, and they have been updated and superseded multiple times. Your best bet is to contact board sponsor Sunset Porsche, and give them your VIN number, and they can tell you which ones are the latest and greatest for your particular car.
  11. Yes, the filter contains 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart of oil, the rest will remain in the engine.
  12. Time to pull the oil filter and look for metal debris......................
  13. Rare bird, we got ours from a European tool merchant as part of a set of tools for about 50 euros.
  14. Unless it had been touched by someone, I've never seen that happen on one that had not be messed with.
  15. Your fuel system should retain 3.8+/- 0.2 bar (around 55 psig) with the engine off, and sow 3.3 +/- 0.2 bar (48 psig) running at an idle. With the engine off, your fuel pump should deliver 850 ml of fuel in 30 seconds. Which timing are you questioning?
  16. I cannot see the AOS being any part of the issue at hand; even when completely failed, cars with a dead AOS run fine, they just idle funny and smoke a lot. You can check your fuel system for pressure and delivery by connecting a test gauge to the Schrader test port on the fuel rail.
  17. Either the sensor are not telling the correct data, or the cats are not working correctly, the sniffer takes both out of the equation and tells you exactly what is actually coming out of the engine. As you have new sensors, which appear to be working correctly, and without any change in the problem, running the sniffer will eliminate them and give you another perspective. As Sherlock once said, once you have eliminated everything else, whatever is left is the problem. And just because a part is new, doesn't preclude it being bad; we have seen many parts crap out right out of the box............. And to eliminate exhaust system leaks, you could smoke test the system.
  18. On way to find out is to take the car to a shop with an exhaust system "sniffer" and see if the car goes out of spec when the CEL is lit; if it is, the problem is the cats, regardless of however many other cars are fine.
  19. From the looks of what you have posted, the aftermarket cats may not be doing the job.
  20. P0343 indicates that cam position sensor 1 is reading out of spec or is shorted. As your electrical test show it seems to be working, the next question is where is the cam timing. Next step should be to read the cam deviation values with a Porsche specific scan tool like the Durametric system or a PIWIS, both banks should read +/- 6 degrees or less; if bank 1 is high, you have a cam timing issue.
  21. This combination of codes indicates that the engine is running so rich that the DME cannot correct it. Sources of code can be one or more of the following: Incorrect MAF signal Fuel pressure too high (often failed fuel pressure regulator) Leaking injector EVAP canister purge valve stuck open
  22. The cam end holders are OK for short term removal of the cam covers, such as when they are just off to be resealed. Because the cams are cast iron, and still under considerable valve spring pressures when the covers are off, replacement cam saddles are used to relieve the deflection force on the cams and prevent them from cracking during longer term repair projects, like you are getting into.
  23. Look around for the connector that should be attached to it, that dangling in the open where it could short may just be the source of your short.
  24. OK, may have just been informed that on some years, it was on the driver's side, as shown in this video clip: Replacing Boxster alarm horn
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.