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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. The Durametric system can see every value the DME sees, but it cannot create values that are not part of the DME's PID file. As for spec values, or explanations of what those values mean, that is not Durametric's prevue; if you want to know what the car's specs are, or an explanation of the codes it reports, you need either the factory OBD II manual for the car (about $2,000.00 when it was still in print, which it no longer is), or the vehicle's factory service manual (13 volumes, but also no longer in print, but available online with either a monthly or annual subscription of around $5,000.00, depending upon what you ask to see). Your other choice to get everything you want, you can lease the current PIWIS III (lease only, not for sale), starting with an opening annual lease cost of $20,000.00. "Speed cost money; how fast do you want to go?"
  2. Remember, both solenoids are electrically "hot" when the car is running, regardless of the cam activation, which happens when the DME active position conditions are met (read RPM levels), and the fets create a path to ground, which is what causes the solenoid to move and the cam positions to change, so there can be common wire colors to both that are carrying battery voltage.
  3. And ten seconds after I posted that, I realized I have to be wrong on that point as the Durametric can activate either one independent of the other, so there has to be separate circuits, at least for diagnostic purposes, and the DME can by throwing different codes tell you that one specific bank is not assuming an active position. There has to be two circuits.
  4. Without sitting down and tracing the wiring diagram for the car, I would say my answer would be a "qualified" yes as the two different bank solenoids do not act independently of each other, so the simplest system would be one circuit to trigger both.
  5. That relay panel is under the driver's side dash, it is in the rear on some Caymans.
  6. Yes, positive lead to pin being tested, other lead to ground; you should see DC voltage. Yes, the DME and ECU relay are the same thing.
  7. Five is definitely the one missing, so if it isn't the coil, it has to be the plug.
  8. This may start out sounding weird, but bear with me. You have two pin connectors on the harness coming from the DME to the solenoid, using a multimeter set to at least 12V DC, you should read around 3V on one pin, and battery voltage on the other (engine running). The low voltage pin is seeing the transistor or fet in the DME that is the ground (yes, I know grounds do not normally show voltage, but in this case it does because of the electronic device the DME uses, it has a low voltage DC signal on it). The second pin should show battery voltage (~13V DC) when the engine is running. Obviously, that is not what you are seeing, and as a 9V battery can trigger the solenoid, it looks like the solenoid is good, but the voltage on the harness is low and wavering with RPM's, which it should not be doing. That wire gets its power from the ECM relay, left side of the engine bay (if memory serves), which may be going south.
  9. Cylinder #5 is misfiring, try checking the electrical connector to the coil on that cylinder to see if it is seated; if it is fine, you may have a bad coil which you can test by moving it to another cylinder and seeing if the fault follows it.
  10. Should battery voltage, or very close to it. Are you sure your battery and alternator are behaving?
  11. An additional thought: Have you back probed the solenoid harness connector B+ with the car running to see if there is actually supply voltage?
  12. The way the system works is that the DME supplies a ground to the always hot solenoid at the appropriate RPM level, allowing the solenoid to assume the active position; so it is beginning to sound like you have either (1) a harness fault between the solenoid and the DME (high resistance causing a voltage drop), (2) a breach in the harness itself, or (3)an internal failure in the DME. I would disconnect the solenoid harness at the cam cover, and using a wiring diagram, check the harness from the cam cover connector to the appropriate DME harness pin for resistance, which would cause a voltage drop and stall the solenoids. If the harness is fine, you have a DME issue.
  13. If the car was in my shop, I would be testing the harness between the sensor and the DME for continuity, resistance, etc. The codes are specific to banks: P0140 is bank# 1, cylinders 1-3; P1121 is for bank # 2, cylinders 4-6. As both are signal interruption related, I would be checking the harness, both electrically, and visually for any damage. These kinds of faults can be a pain to locate the problem, as it can be anywhere along the harness (rodent damage, wire insulations becoming brittle and splitting, etc).
  14. Welcome to RennTech I don't know where you got that definition for P1502, but that is not the code for the throttle jacking spring, it is the code for faulty fuel pump relay, so I would start there.....
  15. P0139 is the code for the O2 sensor after the main cat on bank #1 aging out, P1117 is for the heater element on the same sensor.
  16. You should be able to activate the solenoids one at a time with the Durametric, which should alter the engine's running characteristics. You should also be able to check the real time data section before and after activation and see the cam position changes. The second solenoid on each bank is for the valve lift controls. And, if you are so concerned about confirming the solenoid activations, you can by-pass the car's control system and use a 9V battery and a couple of pieces of scrap wire in place of the harness connection to try and force the activation while the car is running, or better yet, use a tool like a Power Probe to do the same thing. It would also be very unusual for both banks' soleniods to fail at the same time. As they share a common trigger signal, that could be a sign of a wiring issue like a voltage drop (weak signal), short to ground in the harness, or high resistance on the trigger wire.
  17. If attempting to activate it with the Durametric system does nothing, and the electrical connections to the unit are sound, the solenoid has to be bad.
  18. P0011 Position of Camshaft in Relation to Crankshaft, Bank 1 – Below Limit Diagnosis conditions • Idle speed • Reference mark recognized • Engine speed between 600 rpm and 1200 rpm. • Engine temperature greater than 40 °C • No fault in camshaft position sensors • Reference mark OK • No fault in camshaft adjustment • No fault in engine temperature • No fault in camshaft adjustment output stage Possible fault cause ◆ Allocation of camshaft to inlet camshaft incorrect Affected terminals Diagnosis/Troubleshooting Note! • This fault is stored if the engine was disassembled and the allocation of the camshaft to the inlet camshaft was incorrectly set.
  19. Test light or multimeter would work but start by checking for blown fuses. If memory serves, fuse B8 should be one that controls the DME
  20. It sounds like the timing is OK. Have you checked to see if the coil packs are getting power after you pinched the wires?
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