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mikefocke

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Everything posted by mikefocke

  1. mikefocke
    P0140 says correct P1117 and see if the problem persists. Something chew on wiring? These were OEM Bosch with pigtails...not some off brand right? No homebrew connections? Correct part numbers?
  2. mikefocke
    I sold a '01S TIP 58k with brand new PS2s and an Optima battery, mid-options, service records, needing nothing in the mid summer for $13.5k. I felt that was reasonable based on the economy and the fact that I wanted to attract people to come to my relatively out of the way little town in NC. I placed a simple 3 line ad in Craigslist. I had multiple people begging me for the car. Sold in 6 hours to the first viewer for cash. But that says nothing about what the car really should go for in your neck of the woods. And little about what it would sell for if the seller is better located, willing to hold out longer, car is different, etc. It is later in the season, getting cooler in most places. Converts less desirable. Lots of them available. http://www.autotempest.com/ will get you a list from several sources. Throw out the highs and the lows and see what you think a similar car will sell for considering those are all asking prices. The best buy is when snow covers the car.....from a motivated seller...with a PPI.
  3. mikefocke
    The AOS allows fumes to enter the combustion chambers from the crankcase. But heavy oil in the intake almost always means that the AOS is no longer doing its job. The P1126 code can be caused by: - intake leak - low fuel pressure - contaminated injectors - fuel pump failure - exhaust leak ahead of O2 sensors The first step in the diagnosis flow chart is to assure the integrity of the air intake ... and the AOS is a common culprit. You will also want to clean the throttle body after you replace the AOS and its J-tube. instructions for both are at www.pedrosgarage.com
  4. mikefocke
    Actron for engine/emissions on all cars. Used mine on 4 brands. Durametric s/w adds some Porsche specific stuff (see their web site) but more $$$. But, for the Porsche, nothing is as complete as a factory PST2 used by dealers and Porsche-experienced independent mechanics or PIWIS that the dealers use as they add transmission and security codes plus are what is mentioned in the repair manuals.
  5. mikefocke
    Nice. Be sure and ask if they are suitable for Right Hand Drive cars.
  6. mikefocke
    And how old are the tires...from date of manufacture.
  7. mikefocke
    Maurice has been busy this weekend. Try this link and if not poke around the other top articles he wrote up on that site. http://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/mikesporscheboxsterwebpages/clamshell-adjustment
  8. mikefocke
    Three options... Replace worn tires with same model as on the car now. Replace only worn tires on same axle with other higher priced tires. Replace all 4 with lower priced but recommended by owners tires. Kumho and Sumitomo are the usual brands that come up in discussions. Consider getting the rear suspension aligned to favor even tire wear by someone who really knows Boxsters and how to align them. Made a world of difference on my car.
  9. mikefocke
    Pedro provides the ignore the immobilizer service, no idea who his source is. Sure it isn't cheap. http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_2/TechnoChip.html
  10. mikefocke
    My theory is something is heating up and thus breaking a circuit. Take one side and unplug and see if the problem remains, then plug that one back in and unplug the other and see. Maybe you can isolate the problem causing side.
  11. mikefocke
    239 18" wheels 502 Made in Valmet, Finland as are probably 98% of Boxsters To repair a 2nd gear synchro, I see a ~$4k cost as you'll do the IMSR and RMS while you have the gearbox out and the rebuild of the trans or a replacement trans is not cheap.
  12. mikefocke
    Actually, there are failures even in the last design of the IMS from Porsche. It still uses an inferior bearing and the inner seal design that depends on lifetime lubrication from the grease initially installed in the bearing.
  13. mikefocke
    http://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/thetopcables
  14. mikefocke
    I'd look at condition, service history, impression of owner's attitude towards car and its maintenance, list of model year differences, price, tires, battery, top type, driving impressions...the list can get long. And I'd ask about originality of IMS, RMS, AOS, water pump, clutch, rotors, suspension...with pluses for any replacements. Lastly, a PPI by a mechanic known to be a fanatic.
  15. mikefocke
    Don't ever be sorry for trying to help someone. Too many stand on the sidelines.
  16. mikefocke
    It always amazes me that brands don't insist that dealers subscribe to a brand-based data collection service for service history. But a dealer explained that they are private business in competition with each other and don't want the others to know their business or customer contact.
  17. mikefocke
    While Loren is right, the most common DTCs are found easily using a simple ~$60-100 code reader (Actron is a common brand). Once the DTC is read an a Pnnn format code displayed, you then need a Porsche model year specific interpretation of the code translated into pseudo-english. And a list of what could possibly cause the problem. Some causes are trivial to fix, some devilish to diagnose and some beyond the ability of most shade tree mechanics. Fix the problem, turn off the DTC and then go through the cycle of drive and stops and your readout at the smog station should be good. Without knowing the exact Pnnnn format code, tough to tell you anything more. The devil is in the details. More info here https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/acheckenginelight%28cel%29
  18. mikefocke
    The car is ~8 years old. I'd immediately look at the 90k service list for guidance as it is the most comprehensive of the service schedules. Definitely cabin, air oil filter, crush ring, oil, serpentine belt, tires. With so few miles I'd even worry about the quality of the gas so I might run some techron through the system and maybe some stabul. On any car, plastic parts deteriorate over time as well as mileage. Candidates for replacement are water pump and watch the anti-freeze tank and the oil filler tank.
  19. mikefocke
    If you need to, buy a battery where everyone else does...there isn't anything special about a Porsche that it has a special battery. There is a list of the ones known to work/fit here https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/batteries. Running at idle generally doesn't help the battery much. Running at speed does.
  20. mikefocke
    The advice is now to get the battery load tested as repeatedly draining the battery will put it in a precarious state if you use the car for short trips with a/c and radio on, etc. And, if in doubt, get a new battery. It sure beats getting stranded. The reason the maintainer didn't work is that the battery must be at a reasonable state of charge for the maintainer to work as it isn't a charger.
  21. mikefocke
    And if you buy a sensor, buy the generic Bosch one just like Porsche does at about half the price. https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/oxygensensors has a table of equivalent part numbers. In the case of a '98, the Bosch part # is 13806 Oxygen Sensor - OE Type Before Catalyst
  22. mikefocke
    I've taken my P-car to a local quick lube place with the filter, crush ring and oil. They do about 6 P-cars a month so someone there knows how to do it. They deduct about $5 for my "parts" from their lowest price service but makes it easy for me. For the simple things, don't think you have to be a P-car specialist. For the complex things, you do. Cultivate both types of service providers. Yes, once a year. (And mine gets 1-3k a year now too.
  23. mikefocke
    I'm guessing because the only real way you'll ever know is to get the engine to an expert and have the engine gone over as there are almost 2 dozen potential engine failure causes. $$$ However, as a stab take off the engine cover and locate the air filter. Now access the intake to the right of the air filter up to and including the throttle body. Oil filled? Then suspect the AOS and clean the intake, throttle body, replace the plugs with clean ones and replace the AOS. Now see what happens (expecting lots of smoke for lots of miles). But there are also many internal weaknesses that could have caused the symptoms. Beware..P-car parts are going to be expensive and experts are going to expect to be paid $$. The link below outlines your options. My link
  24. mikefocke
    A list http://sites.google....iniarepairshops and another thought would be to go to lnengineering site and look at the shops that do IMS replacements. RMS is trivial by comparison.
  25. mikefocke
    I have seen pictures of 2 recent replacement engines that have an amazing amount of junk in the oil pan, despite being remanufactured engines by Porsche (replacement engines) with oil in the sump put in at the factory. Gasket material and metal fragments none of which can be good for the engine's long term health. So my suggestion is to have the dealer (even at your expense) pull the pan and inspect, then change the oil. Then change it again at 500 miles. Doing a clutch while the engine is out is something to consider. Since it is an S, have them inspect the CV boots as 6 speeds are hard on this part due to the angle of the axle. Front motor mount condition inspection. And if you really want to go all out, water expansion tank and oil filler tanks are both plastic and 10 years old and so much easier to replace with the engine out. Ask if a new AOS comes with the new engine...again a plastic part. I know your parts are maybe only 6-7 years old but plastic does age.
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