mikefocke

Drive the car like a normal car. Let it warm up by driving gently for the first 15km and after that occasionally and legally wind it up to where the valve timing changes and a bit beyond at least...say 5k plus or more. I'd try and wind it up once every trip once it was warm but it is too fuel-expensive to run at high revs all the time. Be careful with the downshifts, get in the wrong gear and you can break an engine. You'll get the hang of it. Change the oil at about 6km or at least once a year. Your temperature reading is higher than most I hear about...right on the right side of the 8 in the 180 mark is where mine always settled. You have a Boxer horizontally opposed 6 cylinder engine, not a V-6. It isn't a gas guzzling race car but it always had more than enough acceleration for me. I'd find a good Porsch-experienced mechanic and ask him to look at why the oil temp seems to run hotter than typical and why it loses power when warm. And maybe check the cluch action.

Loren, I sent casper labs a routine message (no conscious formatting) using the Renntech system and Bill responded to me to ask me to resend it to him via an external email system so he could read it. Other forums simply send an email to the intended recipient of the forum message system on their external email system saying they have a private message on the forum system and not trying to relay the entire text of the message. Feel free to send me a message if would help you debug what happened to him. Feel free to examine any message I may have sent if it helps you in your debugging.

Not to mention plastic ages so it isn't wear that is your only enemy. Witness the AOS, water and oil tanks, etc.

Give us a list of the parts list included with your kit please. Also a link to the installation guide might help people see what is involved. Do you have any already experienced installers in any location other than S FL? Any "marketing material"?

My take away from these discussions: I'm as worried here with Casper Labs testing as I was when I first publically challenged Jake/Charles on how many test units and how many miles they had tested the LN units. If the problem didn't show up with all of the testing Porsche must have done with their test mules as they prepared the first water cooled engines for mass production, why should I trust a few cars with relatively limited miles on the bearings was my question to Jake. With 4k installed now, and about a .1% failure rate (for whatever reason) with some now approaching 3 years and 30k miles LN now has some stats. Failed bearings are sent to Ed, the bearing engineer for analysis. I also said early on in the LN introduction discussions that, if I have a heart opperation, I want the guy to be doing it who has done hundreds, even several this week, and who keeps track of his results. I'm not inclined to do it myself or to be trusting my local do-it-all mechanic. Tools, instructions (that have gone through several clarification revisions) and supporting an experienced installation network of mechanics are important to the successful installation of the bearing and they contribute to cost. As one who used to produce a product that sold in the 200 per year quantities (but cost $20m to develop), I appreciate what any small market manufacturer has to pay in overhead per unit beyond simple bearing part costs. And I expect to pay those costs for my betterment because I want that guy to stay in business and be in a position to support me. I don't want a situation where he ships and forgets. A $300-400 cost difference is inconsequential in the total cost of running these P-cars compared to the depreciation, tires, etc. I'm one to do it once and do it right. Its only a single rear tire after all. And finally I appreciate any one trying to develop products to make our P-cars better. I'm not trying to suggest that Casper might not have a potentially better product, just pointing out where I (with life cycle product planning experience) might be seeing beyond just either better or cheaper as I consider which total solution is right for me (or if one is right at all). All moving parts wear and fail. Some fail sooner than others. Some later. Some installations are better than others. Somebody has to be on the ends of those bell curves.

Since the door panel is somewhat close to the side airbag, might want to disconnect the battery while you have your head in there.

All the ways I know of or have read about here

Try this http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/11-ENGINE-911_Engine_Swap/11-ENGINE-911_Engine_Swap.htm

Is the new TB the same part# as the old?

I sold a '01S TIP AS 58K without Litronics with 17" for $13.5k in August of last year. N2 PS2s with perhaps 500 miles on them. Optima battery. Needed nothing. Maintenance records. Sold in 4 hours after listing on Craigslist with just a 3 line description and no pictures for a stack of $100s and I had people fighting to buy it from a location where they all had to travel 50+ miles just to see it. Obviously I underpriced it since it went so fast but $20k seems $5k too high even for a lower mileage better optioned car.

The codes translate to a O2 sensor short and a bunch of misfires...all on the same side. So the MAF which would affect both sides makes no sense. I'd look at the seating of the O2 sensor wires on the driver's side of a US car. Bet it got jiggled when the plugs were changed. Other possibility is plug wires into wrong cylinders but that would show up immediately and this didn't show up till later per your post.

Great price at this time of year in your climate...I wouldn't think it was. I sold a 58k miles 2001S with middling options but brand new PS2 tires and needing nothing for $500 more than your 13k price in Carolina 2 months ago. The differences being the S motor, brakes, etc and the $1k+ in tires. It isn't an atrocious price, mind you....just I think you can do better. Don't fall in love with the first one you see/drive...there are thousands for sale. The best buys are with snow on the car. Find a Porsche mechanic of good reputation and pay them to check the car out.

P0140 says correct P1117 and see if the problem persists. Something chew on wiring? These were OEM Bosch with pigtails...not some off brand right? No homebrew connections? Correct part numbers?

I sold a '01S TIP 58k with brand new PS2s and an Optima battery, mid-options, service records, needing nothing in the mid summer for $13.5k. I felt that was reasonable based on the economy and the fact that I wanted to attract people to come to my relatively out of the way little town in NC. I placed a simple 3 line ad in Craigslist. I had multiple people begging me for the car. Sold in 6 hours to the first viewer for cash. But that says nothing about what the car really should go for in your neck of the woods. And little about what it would sell for if the seller is better located, willing to hold out longer, car is different, etc. It is later in the season, getting cooler in most places. Converts less desirable. Lots of them available. http://www.autotempest.com/ will get you a list from several sources. Throw out the highs and the lows and see what you think a similar car will sell for considering those are all asking prices. The best buy is when snow covers the car.....from a motivated seller...with a PPI.

The AOS allows fumes to enter the combustion chambers from the crankcase. But heavy oil in the intake almost always means that the AOS is no longer doing its job. The P1126 code can be caused by: - intake leak - low fuel pressure - contaminated injectors - fuel pump failure - exhaust leak ahead of O2 sensors The first step in the diagnosis flow chart is to assure the integrity of the air intake ... and the AOS is a common culprit. You will also want to clean the throttle body after you replace the AOS and its J-tube. instructions for both are at www.pedrosgarage.com

Actron for engine/emissions on all cars. Used mine on 4 brands. Durametric s/w adds some Porsche specific stuff (see their web site) but more $$$. But, for the Porsche, nothing is as complete as a factory PST2 used by dealers and Porsche-experienced independent mechanics or PIWIS that the dealers use as they add transmission and security codes plus are what is mentioned in the repair manuals.

Nice. Be sure and ask if they are suitable for Right Hand Drive cars.

And how old are the tires...from date of manufacture.

Maurice has been busy this weekend. Try this link and if not poke around the other top articles he wrote up on that site. http://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/mikesporscheboxsterwebpages/clamshell-adjustment

Three options... Replace worn tires with same model as on the car now. Replace only worn tires on same axle with other higher priced tires. Replace all 4 with lower priced but recommended by owners tires. Kumho and Sumitomo are the usual brands that come up in discussions. Consider getting the rear suspension aligned to favor even tire wear by someone who really knows Boxsters and how to align them. Made a world of difference on my car.

Pedro provides the ignore the immobilizer service, no idea who his source is. Sure it isn't cheap. http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_2/TechnoChip.html

My theory is something is heating up and thus breaking a circuit. Take one side and unplug and see if the problem remains, then plug that one back in and unplug the other and see. Maybe you can isolate the problem causing side.

239 18" wheels 502 Made in Valmet, Finland as are probably 98% of Boxsters To repair a 2nd gear synchro, I see a ~$4k cost as you'll do the IMSR and RMS while you have the gearbox out and the rebuild of the trans or a replacement trans is not cheap.

Actually, there are failures even in the last design of the IMS from Porsche. It still uses an inferior bearing and the inner seal design that depends on lifetime lubrication from the grease initially installed in the bearing.

http://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/thetopcables