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cburke996

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About cburke996

  • Rank
    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 11/11/1988

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Rumson, NJ
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    2001 996 Turbo
    1967 Firebird
    1993 Audi S4
  • Former cars
    2001 BMW M5

Recent Profile Visitors

406 profile views
  1. I've had an issue with my '01 TT for a little while now. The front end occationally feels loose and vague in regards to steering feel. The weird part is, it isn't always consistent. It usually takes some rough/uneven pavement at highway speeds (55-65+?) and all of a sudden steering feedback sort of gets more numb, and I can move the steering wheel back and fourth with somewhat of a lag in response. Another symptom that is probably related, is the steering wheel tends to have vibrations in it more than normal. I don't feel the vibration driving around normal roads, only highway speed. In an effort to fix the issue, I've done the following (from oldest to most recent): 1. Rennline drop links were installed, this was not trying to fix the problem but worth noting. 2. I had new tie rod ends (inner and outter) installed by my shop, along with a full alignment to factory turbo specs. Had new rear tires put on (fronts are still healthy) and all wheels balanced. Once I got the car back, the problem still persisted. 3. Next step, I ordered new front control and track arms, OEM 996TT parts from Pelican. I installed them myself this past weekend, also put new front swaybar bushings in. Torqued everything to spec, except the ball joint and the chassis mount on the control arm. Couldnt get a socket on them, so I made them nice and tight with wrenches. Note: I tightened the control arm chassis mount with the car on the ground, so the bushing isn't stressed when it is sitting static. This is where I am at now. The problem still persists, and I am getting pretty aggrivated by it. Now I'm asking the communitiy what my next step should be. What I am thinking it *might* be:-steering linkage-rack mounting points-internal to the rack (Hope not! $$)-subframe mouonts/bushings-Front diff mount?-Strut mount (although it doesn't clunk or make typical bad strut mount noises) Any input or thoughts? I don't want to just keep throwing money at it, and I am competant enough to do a lot myself. That said, I am not opposed to bringing the car back in. The hard part with that is, Sometimes the car feels OK (esp around town) so my shop might not see what I am talking about. But it is once you hit the bumps at highway speed that the problem surfaces. Then even on smooth pavement, it is like something gets upset and the car still feels bad for a while. Thanks for taking the time reading my long post, I truly appreciate it. Connor
  2. Didn't find any TT or awd specific posts regarding this, so I was hoping I could get a quick walk through of the front control arm replacement procedure. My car is an '01 996TT. I found this, and the control arm and track arm look very similar in the picture so I am guessing it is closely resembling ours? ( http://kevingosselin.blogspot.com/2009/08/boxster-control-arm-replacment-in-total.html ) But that link doesn't deal with any front half shafts. Do I need to remove the hub assembly to do my front control arms? Should I have new CV boots/clamps standing by? Thanks for any pointers! -Connor
  3. Putting in an order for some front suspension parts today, and I just want to make sure I have the correct sway bar bushings. I believe it is these, but since GT2 is in parenthises I'm not sure if they actually mean it is for a turbo or not. Can anyone tell for sure? http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=996-343-792-16-M100&catalog_description=&Front%2520Sway%2520Bar%2520Bushing%252C%2520Stock%2520Rubber%2520%2528%2532%2520per%2520car%252C%2520sold%2520individually%2529%252C%2520%2539%2539%2536%2520GT%2533%2520%2528%2531%2539%2539%2539%252D%2530%2535%2529%252C%2520each%2520 And for my front suspension overhaul, I'm attacking the following: Main control arms Control arm links sway bar bushing Recently did tie rods and sway bar end links. Should I add anything else to the list while I'm in there? Thanks, Connor
  4. Hey guys, I'm trying to figure out an issue in my TT. Boost delivery isn't as smooth as it used to be. Under constant throttle application (lets say half throttle) boost will hold at .4bar for a number of seconds when it should really be building up, and then all of a sudden it jumps up to 1.2bar and takes off. Occationally it will jump up to 1.5 bar and hold until I let off (I don't hold it for long, and I try to avoid this). I've got an EPL K16 flash set for 1.2 bar, so 1.5 is overboosting. And then, sometimes I just can't get up to the 1.2 bar...it will max out at .8-.9 occationally. So far I checked the hoses at the N75 valve, they look ok. I found a big crack in the Y-hose, that plugs into the bottom of the DV's. I replaced that hose, and still have unsmooth boost delivery. What else might be the culprit here? Maybe the N75 valve is on its way out? Sticky wastegate actuators? I haven't gone underneath to investigate them. Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Connor
  5. Is there any update to this? To bleed the system, you simply add 5mL to each ram, then tighten the banjo? Do you need to remove the rams from the car? I have a leak coming from my drivers side ram, from the banjo on the bottom. It seems like the copper washers are bad. Does anybody know where I can get those washers? Thanks, Connor
  6. Yea, I felt pretty dumb missing this! So D1-D3 are redundent fuses? I saw those fuse descriptions first, and stopped there. Anyway, taking out the current distributer wasn't such a big deal. Learned a bit about the car. I'm just glad it all works correctly again. -Connor
  7. Finly fixed it. I removed the current dist earlier and all fuses were fine. Checked them for continuity and they all passed. So not knowing what else to do, i began pulling every fuse in the drivers side compartment. C3, a 15 amp was blown. Huh...put a new one in and bingo problem solved. I'll check in a little while but I am not even sure what C3 is described to power. Thanks for the help guys. Connor
  8. Hey guys, im not having any luck finding the current dist. I had my head burried under the pass side dash and there arent any fuses visable. Took off a plastic cover to find the blower motor for the vents. Any input on this? How do I get the repair manual you refer to above? Thanks, Connor
  9. For a little while now, my passenger side window has not been dropping down to allow the door to open/close. So I bought the microswitch and went to install it on saturday. Well, it wasn't until after I had the door panel off that I realized I don't have the triple square bit to remove the latch assembly NO worries, I'll put it back together and do the fix after I pick up the correct tool. So after the door panel is back together, I fire it up and notice: 1- the power windows don't work 2- sunroof doesn't work 3- rear defroster doesn't work 4- map lights don't work. Now, what would pulling the door panel off and putting it back on have ANYTHING to do with this list of failures? I checked the associated fuses in block D of the fuse box. They were all fine. Is there a relay connecting all of these features that may have failed? One other thing that I can't imagine would have an impact: When I went to remove the door panel, the wires that go to the little orange LED in the handle pulled out of the connector. I plan on picking up some wiring supplies at radioshack to fix this, but its only the handle LED...if that is somehow wired in series with the rest of those features...I would have to question Porsche's sense in that. Anyone know what might be going on here? Also, does anyone have a wiring diagram of this car? Thanks, Connor
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