crwarren11

Ok, no problem.

Just picked up a 2015 Macan Turbo yesterday! It will be my wife's DD as well. It is a great drive so far! Any insights or things I should be on the lookout for? Also, anyone have the correct pronunciation of this beauty?

Will you check the link? It does not appear to be working. Just got a 2015 Macan Turbo yesterday!

Ok, well, I couldn't resist. I just had to get it! Beautiful car, incredible ride, another Porsche now in the family!

I am a long time Renntech member and currently a one-Porsche owner (15+ years bought from new, recently hit 100k mi). I am considering picking up another, a very lightly used 2015 Macan Turbo. I tend to keep cars for 20+ years and always on the lookout for something that may retain some decent value in distant the future. I have seen various production numbers of the Macan, roughly 80,000+ last year, which was pretty shocking. Does anyone know what the breakdown is for each model: base, S, turbo? Thanks!

Good to know...thanks!

Good to know JFP! I wish I had a newer manual, but...I don't. Any good sources for electronic ones that you are aware of?

Just in case...atf cooler attached here. atf cooler.pdf

Manual or tiptronic transmission? I would drain a bit of oil from both the engine and the transmission to check them for intermix (chocolate milkshake). Oil cooler is pretty straightforward, just messy. I've heard about quite a few transmission oil coolers failing, but not really engine oil coolers, so I suggest checking for intermix in both to be sure. Engine oil cooler specs attached. oil cooler.pdf

The sounds you describe sound like what I was getting with worn out control arm (track arm) bushings. I replaced mine at about 100k and those low rumbling (especially at low speeds on rough roads) and vibrations have disappeared. I thought maybe that noise had been coming from the engine heat shield cover as it always sounded to me like that thing vibrating right behind my head, but after I replaced the control arms it all went away, and came with a much smoother ride overall. That would be my guess. I don't know of a good way to check the condition other than taking them off and inspecting. Once I got mine off, it was clear that the bushings were shot. P/N 986-331-043-07 for me. I am slowly working my way through all of the rear suspension components which have never been replaced and I am guessing that all the rubber stuff is in need of replacement after 16yrs and 100k mi+.

Sorry, forgot to attach. Let's try this again: 986_USA_KATALOG.pdf

Stupid question but is it your hand brake light that is on or your brake pad light? It's been a long time since I let my pads get to the sensor on my Boxster so I don't remember now, but on my bmw after replacing pads and sensors I have to put the key in the #1 position for 30 seconds without starting the car to let the system check run and reset itself.

Wheel bearings for me have always been a high pitched whine when driving, sometimes an intermittent squeal. At 130k I would expect most or all of your bushings and ball joints in the rear are probably ready to be replaced. I know mine are at 100k and I am chipping away at them as I can.

I think just the bushings can be replaced but would likely require a hydraulic press so I just replaced the entire arms on both sides. Very easy job. Also check the tightness on your assymmetric bolts for the alignment settings to make sure they aren't loose.

It sounds like things are improving! That's great news! Hopefully it's not just mental...I know that trick too...

Haha, yes I understand! So I tested my own 2000 Tiptronic today and for me this is how it operates in manual mode: 1st gear, pedal to the floor: consistently shifts at ~6500 (visual, I didn't have it hooked up to Durametric) 2nd gear, pedal still to the floor: consistent goes all the way to redline ~7100 So...maybe your shifting in 1st gear has always been at 6670? The harder or slower shifts compared to pre-service could be indicative of the fluid used. I've never seen anything about where these are programmed to shift, but I will poke around.

I agree, it is very unlikely that someone would have done any transmission service on it with under 30k miles. Porsche first mentions servicing the trans fluid/filter at 90k miles. So, yes, likely the red is the new fluid they used. The other thing is that a trans fluid/filter service will only remove about half of the total atf in the system (the other half is in the torque converter), so you should still have half of the original left in there. If you flush again you would theoretically have about 25% red fluid left and 75% mix of new pentosin and original fluid. So, it is a process, which is why you might consider having the indy shop take care of it for you. It is also a messy job, draining fluid, pumping in new fluid until it spills out at the correct temperature range, etc. Not difficult, but tedious. Have you checked to see if the trans cover plate has a service hole in it to access the drain? I think your year has this, but not 100% sure. Mine did not so I used a hole saw to give me access to the drain/fill hole so I didn't have to take off the diagonal supports and cover plate every time. All that said, you could do all of this and still end up with your shifting at 6800. But if you're up for the experiment then it would be interesting to see what happens!

Factory fluid and the ZF fluids for your trans are amber just like the pentosin atf 1. I have used cheap atf for flushes...and it was red. So I would say your findings may indicate that the wrong atf was used, the other pentosin product you mentioned sounds likely. The spec I used for equivalence is LT71141, which came from the ZF service manual. The filter doesn't need to be changed but if you're going to do a fill and flush several times then you could change it on your last go around. It's cheap. One thing I did was keep a sample of the drained atf in a clear milk jug for a week or so. After a few days it would separate clearly into the different atf's by color then I could tell how much of each was left in the system and if I was improving it after each flush. You could also go back to your shop and insist that they do all of this work for you and use the right fluid!

Durametric will show fault codes for the tiptronic.

These ZF transmissions are pretty sensitive so it could be the change in fluid or just the level. Other than flushing, I would only use the Pentosin or ZF ATF. It's just not worth the risk using cheap stuff. But before you go draining and refilling again, I'd try this: Just looking at some of the other work you had performed, reset the adaptation by unplugging the battery for a while...not sure what the minimum time is but I will usually just do it overnight. After reconnecting you will notice on your first drive and a few more after that, that things are re-adapting. Idle will usually fluctuate quite a bit and you might have a few rough shifts as the ECU is getting everything back in sync.

In my case the dipstick tube is two pieces. The part that connects to the coolant area and another that connects to the oil sump. It is attached with a snap fit feature that you squeeze and pull apart. If you've already figured that out then it will come out through the trunk at the coolant reservoir. There are some snap fit prongs there as well that are squeezed from behind. You can reach in through the access area to pinch it and push it through...at least on my model 2000 986 tip.

I did this at home with no special tools per se. I did use a generic engine support bar, I think it was a harbor freight $50 item. Use some foam pads or at least a few towels underneath the bar where it rests on the car so it doesn't scratch/dent it...the stands that came with it didn't fit the Porsche. I also supported the engine underneath with a jack and jack stands. I just drained my coolant and filled it with new stuff on the way back in, so didn't have a need for the clamps, but those are pretty easy to find anywhere. I just used screwdrivers for the dowel pins to hold the position, but definitely have to be careful not to let the TC drop. I used what you attached as well as this guide: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/37-TRANS-Drop/37-TRANS-Drop.htmeven though it is for a manual, it has some good step by step information.

Following. Sorry I can't help but I'm interested in what you find!

It is finally here, I hit 100,000 miles today. It was strange to see all of those digits roll over on the odometer. I felt my heart sink a little bit. I will never forget the day, May 25, 2000, nearly 16 years ago that I bought and first drove this car home from Scottsdale Porsche. It was actually the first time I had ever driven a Porsche, only having ridden in the back of my friend's dad's 911 in the late 1980's...a beautiful red cabriolet. It was then that I was hooked and decided that I would someday own one of these beautiful machines. In a somewhat lucky turn of events I made a fair amount of money in my first start-up company and decided to blow some of it on my first (and only...so far) Porsche, $51,140 for a silver base Boxster Tiptronic. It is certainly not the most glamorous Porsche and certainly not worth much anymore these days, but it has provided years of driving joy and has turned me into somewhat of a gearhead. Working on this car is like therapy for me after long, arduous days and weeks of work...or life. It has provided me the opportunity to learn so much about not only Porsches, but cars in general...I didn't even know how to change my own oil until about 8 years ago. I have kept track of every penny I've spent on this car, keeping it mostly stock, but still running nearly as perfectly as she did day one...$17,594.10 put into her thus far. Most recently, a new pair of rear tires, Michelin Pilot Sport AS3's for $420.28; I repainted the brake calipers; put in some new rear control arms; replaced the passenger window regulator. This weekend, an oil service with Mobil 1 5W-50. Near future, a new AOS and rear suspension rebuild (annoying popping noises on bumps and sharp turns). I never have done the infamous IMS bearing, and hoping not to see any metal in the filter or on the magnetic drain plug this time around either. The only major issue I've had is the transmission go out due to a failed oil cooler which resulted in a nasty intermix, effectively burning out all the fiber clutches. I did nearly all the work myself to rebuild it. I keep thinking that surely I did something wrong, but that was more than 3 years and 8,000 miles ago. I have a very tiny tapping noise, possibly a sticky lifter or two, or maybe something is just loose somewhere. I have a recurring P1276 code, so I probably need a new O2 sensor, but it has been gone for over 3 months now...it is probably about ready to illuminate again. Not too many regrets with this car. I did buy a Tiptronic because there was a six month wait when I went to the dealer, but someone had backed out of this one, which had everything I wanted...except it was a Tip...and it was available. I still wish I had the manual gearbox. The S model was new to the line and I didn't know any better. I probably should have waited for an S with the manual transmission, but it's hard to complain really. She has treated me pretty kindly over the years. The memories I have associated with this car are incredible. The rides in this car to and from the many associations of life's joys and pains. Bringing it home for the first time, washing it the first time, hitting 100mph for the first time, hitting 130mph the first time, driving to Vegas the first time, leaving Arizona and driving to California the first time. The girls, oh the girls, that I have had in this car, too many to really remember. Those days turned into one girl, though, and that turned into memories of giving my four kids their first rides in "the Porsche." My two-year old still waiting for her first! They mostly all still love helping me wash it, though...or maybe they're putting in their dibs for the future. Don't worry...had a friend take some pictures while I was driving. Before painting the calipers: And after: Figured I would do a thorough cleaning of the insides of the rims while I was at it. Wow, what a ton of work to remove 15+ years of brake dust and road gunk: Tires were replaced as soon as I got it back on the road! Look at that wear, yikes! Unfortunately I needed to build a new bed for my daughter while the car was on the stands; it turned into my very own "garage find": So it needed a good wash and wax afterwards:

Agree with JFP, make sure system is properly bled. On that note, have had a problem with the bleeder valve and older version reservoir caps that both caused coolant leaks. I've also had some similar issues and it was the heater valve causing problems. Pn 928-574-573-03. I'm not suggesting you throw parts at it though. Just my experience.