binger

There are two TSBs for your car regarding this issue. You have several associated fault codes 47. 48, 49, 51 as per the TSBs. You will have to cross reference your VIN to the TSB to get the correct parts. Either way looks like you will have to replace the passengers side belt buckle and harness/ground with connectors from Porsche. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?app=downloads&module=display&section=download&do=confirm_download&id=224 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?app=downloads&module=display&section=download&do=confirm_download&id=655

JFP is on target! There are some reasonable priced combustion leak detector testers out there to confirm you have that issue. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=Lisle%2075500%20Combustion%20Leak%20Detector http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=Combustion+Leak+Detector&rh=n%3A15684181%2Ck%3ACombustion+Leak+Detector

Kevin, I am glad to hear the service manger did the right thing. Like I said be polite but firm, the real professionals take care of there clients. This dealer wants you back and thats a good thing for both partys involved. I know a lot of people on this forum do not like the dealer. However if you have a good service team they take care of business even if they made a mistake. They also have the proper tooling and parts to do the job right. Best wishes.

Binger, it does not work quite this way. Yes, there is a CSI. In a dispute over a part warranty the dealer always wins unless the dealer has lied about speaking to Porsche about the problem which would be stupid. It was Porsche who declared the PCM Kevin's responsibility. This is why you get these cars certified. Having said this, This version of The PCM sucks. The sound is awful, the NAV is worse, there is no iPod integration, there is no BlueTooth, and the interface with the car is fragile and dangerous. My car was under warranty when the PCM electrocuted it. After the dealer replaced the faulty PCM and the instrument cluster, gateway module and PASM computer it destroyed I ditched the PCM and could not be happier.Kevin, save up your money and get yourself a nice X-mas present. Mijostyn, I agree a Kenwood, Alpine could be a good option. However I worked for Porsche in the 80's I know the ins and outs of the way dealers work. I still work with dealers today as a sub contractor. Dealers may want you to think they always win however thats not always true.There are two sides of the story, we only know Kevin's side for now. MFGs really care about there reputation because of buyer retention especially Porsche. They know that there brand relies on die hard enthusiasts to come back and buy car after car. Porsche also know that people on forums like this and PCA, POC, members are there bread and butter. The MFG. would not want a dealer to put a bad taste in someones mouth for a legitimate mistake on there part. What I am saying is if Kevin goes through the right channels the dealer should make it right. The bottom line, Kevin has nothing to lose but $$$$ for not putting up a fight.

When I hear stuff like this it makes me mad. Bottom line if it the unit worked when you gave it to the dealer. They screwed it up because they had some B or C level Tech that did not know what he was doing. First I would call the service manger and have a nice word with him. If he dose not do the right thing I would call Porsche north America and not take no for an answer. FYI Dealers and mangers make a big bonus off the CSI (Customer service index). If you raise hell with Porsche north America the dealer and manger will loose money that month. Dose not matter that its not still under warranty it worked before they touched it. They screwed it up they own it! Remember stick to your guns!!!

I just got a chance to look at the fuse box details. Fuses 20-23 are your head light high and low beams driver /pass side. Fuses 30-34 are your turn signals front and rear. This is not a factor with your no start issue. I would start by checking/replacing the DME/fuel pump relay Its # R41 in the fuse box. If that dose not work then you need to double check every connector you touched to be sure you did not cross anything when reinstalling the motor. 90 Porsche 964.pdf

Check the plug for the crank sensor and the DME/fuel pump relay.

I had a lease deal go bad with a MZB dealer that made the deal and then backed out because the salesman screwed up. I started to fight them but I decided it was not worth the BS that was going on. It turned out the be the best thing that could have happened. I went to Kelly blue book .com and used there tool to shop three dealers of my choice. One guy got back to me with a better deal then I was fighting for. No sitting in the sales mangers office being pressured with car sales tactics. All done with your keyboard and once you make your deal its done. You walk in see the internet sales manager and 20 minutes you are out the door with all the paperwork and your car. Once I had this experience I would never walk in to a dealer showroom again. If I were you I would try the KBB tool in the link below to at least see what other options you have. Hope this helps. http://www.kbb.com/free-dealer-price-quote/ PS: Once I met this internet sales manager, I call him direct now and have done 3 more deals with him over the years.

I dont know if you drive a lot but you need to also know how many miles per year are in the deal. The price he gave you is that a 10,000 or 12,000 per year deal?

It is usually recommended to replace them together. If the driver failed the pass side is not far from failing too.

Looks like that harness is available. I would call Andraya at sunset Porsche to confirm 800-346-0182. See the link below parts diagram. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=9PA-03-06&section=902-09

I am sorry hear that. I would put the DME back in and diagnose your issue ASAP. I know you had (Porsche Fault 23) P0159 -- Aging of Oxygen Sensor After Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 4 - 6). I would check the resistance in that sensor but I would also check all the injectors too. If one goes south and starts pulling too many amps it can blow a driver in the DME. Once you do get the DME repaired I would be careful not to plug it in to the car until you find what component blew the driver in the first pace.

Got it as you did not specify ROW car.

FYI there are four O2 sensors on your 993. 2) before the cat and 2) behind the cat.

You say you looked at the wiring? Did you trace all the wires or do any voltage drop testing? You changed the coil packs so check that off the list. I would replace the fuse even if it look ok. If that dose not work you have 3 other possibility's listed in red below. Possible causes: - Short circuit to B+ - Short circuit to ground - Open circuit in line - Fuse F 07 faulty (fuse carrier in plenum panel E-box) - Bar ignition coil faulty

I agree with JEP that its probably not the cat. Before you start throwing a bunch of parts at the issue you need someone that has durametric, PST2, Piwis and knows how to use it correctly. Also there are two TSBs you should know about from Porsche. Oxygen Sensor Connectionshttp://www.renntech....connectionspdf/ 2. Oxygen Sensor Heater Faults: Update of the DME Fault Software (ME 7.2) http://www.renntech....ware-me-72-pdf/

Hi Steve, Can you please give us some history on the car? Did you have any codes before you changed the coil packs and plugs?

Here is a website that will explain diagnosing ABS systems. http://www.picoauto.com/tutorials/diagnosing-abs.html

Its very unlikely that your sway bars are the issue. Porsche Cup car teams use much more sway bar then you are. I was called to a shop to diagnose a MZB with a similar issue. The shop had replaced all the wheel sensors, Yaw sensor not resolving the original customer concern. I put a lab scope on each wheel sensor to prove that was not a tone ring or a bad sensor. The waveforms all looked normal now for a test drive. During any hard left hand turns I could hear and feel the system kicking in. Now I am scratching my head back at the shop what is going on I have proved that the wiring, sensors and tone rings are good. Then I remembered a friend that worked as a tech rep for one of the largest tire distributors in the US. He works with all the factory techs. for support issues. I called him for some insight on my issue with this car. He recommended swapping the front tires with the rear to see if the issue would stop. I told him the tires were wider in the rear then the fronts. He said if they dont rub on the fenders its ok for testing at this point. The shop changed the fronts with the rears tires then we went for a test drive. The issue went away and was solved. What I learned from the tech rep was in there track testing the belts move inside the tires and throw the PSM system for a loop. This can happen on older and or defective tires. If I were you I would scope all the sensors to make sure you re not just throwing tires at the issue. However it sounds like the car is ready for a new set of fronts anyway. Hope this helps good luck at the track this weekend!

Timing is critical for proper setup and horsepower. Dont skimp on tools for this kind of operation. see the link below for Balm tools. http://www.baumtools.com/pdf/porsche_timing_tools.pdf

Blytha, Ahsai & JEP are correct with their advice. There is also two TSBs you should know about from Porsche. I don’t know where your friend took the reading from the DLC connector with a durametric, PST2, Piwis or by directly taping in to the sensor. If he just used the DLC connector he may have false readings because of a connecter issue at the sensor. See TSBs below. Oxygen Sensor Connectionshttp://www.renntech.org/forums/files/getdownload/159-167carrera-oxygen-sensor-connectionspdf/ 2. Oxygen Sensor Heater Faults: Update of the DME Fault Software (ME 7.2) http://www.renntech.org/forums/files/getdownload/172-181carrera-oxygen-sensor-heater-faults-update-of-the-dme-fault-software-me-72-pdf/

Just pull the fuel pump relay out and your good to go.

Voltage drop testing is the best way to find the problem because it is dynamic. Your testing the actual components with out disturbing any connections that might be the issue. I have attached two videos that shows how to pinpoint with voltage drop testing. Hope this helps. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=paw80mS_Kxg&feature=player_embedded http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qfaLy-DS3w&feature=player_embedded

Have you checked fuel pressure and volume? sound like your starving for fuel.

Ahsai is correct you should not use this idle control valve without knowing what the ohm values are. If you are not a professional or understand how these systems work I would not play around. If the ohm value is is too low you could blow the driver in the DME or even fry the whole DME. Not worth trying to save a couple of $$ on a idle control valve and spending several thousand on a new DME. Also you may create major drivability issues.