larez2

Those items are just preventative maintenance; some people may try to sell you on them, but it's not a required IMO. As long as you inspect those items regularly you should be ok. If you see any contamination in the brake fluid, flush it right away and make sure the brake system is all good. With that in mind, I baby my 911 and all the preventative stuff gets done on schedule no matter what. Sure the brake fluid coming out looks brand new when I bleed it, but I do it anyways. The plugs are pretty easy to change except 1 of them. The last time I did it they were in such good shape I hung on to a few as spares just in case... again just preventative maint. and my car defintely could have gone longer without changing them. But just to prove a point on the other end of the spectrum, I picked up a beat to heck 944 for LeMons that sat for 9 years in a salvage yard. Got it started and drove it, and have autocrossed it a bunch of times too. The brake system has been working great on 9 years+ old brake fluid and spark plugs are fine too; though I am going to flush the brake system one of these days.

I'd try some of the things suggested in this post: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=24633 though the OP's symtoms are a bit different than yours, the things suggested in the other thread would be a good start to figuring out what is going on. Good Luck.

i recommend a cover-zone car cover. www.cover-zone.com - you might be able to find a local distributor up there - i found one in Texas, USA via Ebay. I have several models for various cars, and my favorite outdoor one is the Voyager model car cover. You can get one custom fit to the Boxster. Does a great job of protecting from sap, and other elements, and keeps the car cool. Cheaper than a factory cover or some other brands out there, but not as cheap as a universal fit one. They are super light weight and pack small too. Just make sure to never put it on your car if your car is dirty, i always prep with a california duster.

You should get a wiring harness specific for a boxtster radio, and a wiring schematic. it isn't too complicated of a job... if your existing is a Porsche factory unit, you'll need a special tool to remove the head unit (it's actually 2 of the same tool). I didnt' think fitting/wiring one was any more or less difficult than any other car. Good luck, larez2

I'm sorry to hear about your car; i hope you are able to get a quick and suitable resolution quickly... How many miles were on the engine? $17k sounds like an awful lot, but certainly is not a bad option if you are willing to spend the money.... though I have seen 2001 and new boxster S's selling for less than $17k... what about using an engine from a wrecked boxster S and puting in Raby's IMS upgrade? Could be a LOT cheaper. good luck

I've used a Britax Marathon baby seat in the back seat of my 996. It just barely fit, i removed the rear seat cushion and seat back and it fit a little better. To secure it, i used the regular 3 point seat belt and there is actually a couple of LATCH points on the back shelf underneath the carpeting to hook into (one for each side) - I am not sure if the cabriolet has the Latch points. The front seat has to be moved really far foward, almost all the way in order for this to work.

Do you get any smoke out of the tailpipes at startup or while driving (a common effect of a bad AOS)? If you don't you could probably go a little longer without changing it and without hurting anything. But my recommendation is to determine for sure that there is a leak and replace it ASAP; a leak will only get bigger. $665 actually doesn't sound bad... you could DIY it for cheaper too as an option. Also even though you are low miles, if it's the original it's 9 years old there have been some updates/improvments to the AOS since then. good luck, Larez2

if you gentle wiggle (don't break it!) the turn signal stalk a little bit as you move it up or down and forward and backwards does make the turn signals come on? If it does you might want to try spraying some electrical contact cleaner where the turn signal lever/stalk attaches to the steering column. Sometimes gunk or dirt or stuff gets trapped in there and needs to be cleaned out.

Congrats! Really nice color combo and nice seats too :drive:

While it is not recommended to mix tire brands or types (ie summer, winter, all season), you certainly can, and people do it all the time. The handling charactaristics/dynamics will likely be different, ie more oversteer or understeer depending on what tire you have where. Personally I wouldn't mix and match, but that's just me.

It could be your expansion tank or expansion tank cap, especially true if you still have the original one. It may only be leaking while under load (ie accelerating) so that's why you don't here it when stopped. Check under the carpet to see if there is any coolant pooling underneath it. Also remember that it is a pressurized system so be careful. Good Luck, larez2

I can't explain why your car stalled out on you while driving.... but what you describe when you tried to restart it text book for needing a new battery. The same clicking sound and dash lights flickering is exactly what happened to my car last week and it was just the battery... though I hadn't banged it around like you did :) HTH and congrats on doing your first track event! Larez2

The 2 year brake fluid change interval and yearly oil change is just preventative maint. What color is your brake fluid - if it looks like new and uncontaminated, you are probably ok to not change it. I believe there is a tester than can actual test brake fluid for moisture/contamination if you're interested... How long did you own your previous 911's and never flushed the brake fluid? At the very least you'd want to do it if it starts to look dirty/contaminated. The brake system is closed one so unless there is a leak or something, moisture and dirt is going to have a tough time getting in. I go ahead and flush my brake fluid every year, even if it looks clean/uncontaminated, and change the oil every 5k miles but I drive it more than you :)

I think it's your engine/motor mount that is leaking and not the engine itself, especially if you jacked up the car using the engine jacking point, it may have tore the mount open: https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca..._ENGmis_pg1.htm The engine mounts should be replaced in pairs. Good Luck, larez2

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=25328 Unless you have an engine from a wrecked 911/salvage yard (which would still have cosmoline).

When your first engine went was it replaced with an engine from a wrecked car or was it a new/remanufactured one direct from Porsche? I've heard stories of people needing new engines under an extended warranty and the warranty company provided one from a wrecked/salvage yard to save money vs having to buy a new engine from the manufacturer. You only get the 2 year warranty from Porsche on the engine if its a new/remanufactured one from them. What you describe sounds to me like it might be the throw out bearing starting to go or fork pivot ball needing adjustment/lubrication. Good Luck, Larez2

I've usually just gotten the Porsche certified N-code tires, but you certainly do not have to. I've always felt better about using them. I did once use some non-Porsche certified tires; Pirelli P-Zero Nero A/S tires on my Boxster. They worked great quiet and decent grip, really good wear life. Just pick a tire that has gotten good reviews and fits your driving style (if you need All Season tires or just summer tires, etc). Summer only tires are generally always going to perfrom better than All Season tires on dry pavement. I'd just stay away from a really cheap off brand tire. Also, in case you didn't know the wear rating of the tire 200, 300, etc, the higher it is the longer the tire is supposed to last. Tires go bad and should be replaced every couple of years, so if you are still on your original you are past due and i think you will notice a huge difference when you get new ones. HTH, Larez2 PS - those are some NICE pictures if you click on ekam's signature!!

I had a similar issue but it was with the 18" turbo twists. Anyways, it was an annoying shimmy similar to what you describe. I had the wheels aligned. I had all the tires rebalanced using road force variation. I had the suspension and steering inspected by the local Porsche dealership; they took it for a test drive as well - everything checked out as ok and they told me the vibrations were "normal". I just lived with it for a couple more months, and then when i got new tires viola - vibrations and shimmy gone! My guess is that it's your tires. Good Luck, larez2

Congrats on your purchase... in the future be sure to always try the search feature first, much of what you are asking has been covered in previous posts. How many miles are on your car? It sounds to me like it's your AOS - Air Oil Separator that needs replacing. What are you seeing on the digital indicator (on your dash) for the oil level when the car is warm? Of course you have to check it with the car off. Each bar is about 4oz of oil. If you don't have the check engine light on or any codes, you probably haven't done much if any damage. Your MAF, Oxygen Senors and catalytic converter could of gotten damaged. You should also check your coolant for oil contamination and your oil for coolant contamination - hopefully it is neither of those! Happy Motoring, Larez2

Hi, I'd follow Loren's advice and see if you can find out if the case specs are off and if so, get a new engine.... I was just curious did they say why they are just replacing the bearing only and not both the IMS and bearing? Seems like if you are getting the new IMS and bearing why wouldn't they install both of them? Also did they say if they were going to take the engine apart to replace the bearing? If it's only going to cost you $700 to do that repair, I'd do it, it'll probably give you some of peace of mind and hopefully fix everything and give you years of trouble free motoring! Good Luck, larez2

I stand corrected... I had originally shopped around and was lead to believe that one did not exist for the Targa. As aliberty stated, there is a RTS that will fit on the Targa: Part no. 996 801 065 00 Its factory MSRP is over $1100, ouch! but you can get it for cheaper. I think is it kind of a rare part that they don't sell many of. RE: Service/lube for the top, I haven't had to do it yet, but it looks like there is just a bit of light lubricant along the tracks that you could easily add more yourself if it starts to go dry....

I went from a 986 Boxster to a 996 Targa. The biggest difference I notice is the power - I came from a non-S 2.5 Boxster though. It also seems a lot nicer overall - interior etc, but again i came from an optionless boxster and my Targa is pretty loaded up. I especially like the supple leather seats a lot more than the standard/basic seats in the boxster. It is my understanding that the 996 Targa is based on the 996 Coupe, whereas the 993 Targa is based on the 993 Cabriolet and therefor has similar torsional rigidity to that of the Coupe, and not as much flex as the Cabriolet. The roof definitely sqeaks but it's only noticeable over rough pavement at lower speeds. At freeway speeds I never hear it. It really is the coolest thing to have a glass roof!!! The sunshade diffuses the sun, but doen't completely block it out, however there is an optional sunshade with a tighter weave that blocks out more sun that you can have installed. Another great thing about the Targa is that the rear glass opens like a hatchback making the storage in the back seat area much more easy to access and way more usable. One important thing to note is that you cannot install the RTS (roof transport system) on the Targa. And there are no aftermarket racks that exist that will fit (that i am aware of). I have never tracked the Targa, but I have AX'ed it. It's fast, but all things being equal a 996 C2 should be faster though. I had read somewhere that it's not recommended to track it... Anyways, it did fine in the AX,it handles great and i didn't have any problems. I am not a very good driver yet, and the Targa is way over my current abilities. I defintely prefer it over my Boxster, I have never been a huge fan of convertibles. And heck with the Targa top all the way open it's a lot like a convertible anyways. My only gripes are that there isn't a rack system for the car. I'd like to be able to carry my surfboard or bike sometimes on this car, but it's just not an option. With the top all the way open it's very difficult to see out the back since you are basically looking through 2 pieces of glass, but my rear window is tinted so it might not be so bad on a non-tinted car. Good luck with your purchase! Lawrence

Thanks for posting the fix/solution... I have an 02' Targa as well and while my owners manual is titled "2002 Porsche Carrera" owners manual, it covers the coupe, cabrio, and Targa as well. I'm glad you were able to fix it and hope the car works out great for you - the glass roofed Targa's are the best :)

Congrats on your purchase!!! The cosmoline point is a good one, however if you have a replacement engine out of a wrecked Boxster it would still have the cosmoline... I know several people that have or had higher mileage 986 and 996's, all on their original engines. It sounds to me like you have the original engine - I would think an engine replacement would be reflected in the service records you got. I think the engine issues on early 986 and 996's were blown out of proportion and are not nearly as bad as the postings on internet may lead you to believe...

The front driver side brake caliper was replaced under the warranty. They seem pretty easy to deal with so far... I just did a google search on them and found mixed reviews... though the bad stuff you read on the internet about products or services often tend to be exaggerated or blown out of proportion in my opinion.