Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JeTexas

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    533
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by JeTexas

  1. If it had a vacuum leak, I think it would be running lean, but the sooty exhaust would make me think it is running rich. Do you get an codes for 02 sensors? Do you still have the cats on the exhaust?
  2. The horn button is basically two metal contacts suspended over each other. When you push down on it, it makes a connection and sounds the horn. I'm not sure if the Porsche horn is springloaded or just has rubber tabs holding the horn button up, but it sounds like your spring/rubber needs to be replaced. When you slam the brakes, the momentum of the car intermittently overcomes the tension of the spring, and the horn goes off. I don't think it has anything to do with your electrical wiring.
  3. The cold start dying problem could be from dirty fuel injectors.
  4. Glad to hear it worked out for you. Life is stressful enough with out that sort of thing.
  5. I like to tinker, and I've been looking for a new project. Just wondering if anyone's ever built one of these 914 Voltsporsches and what kind of results you got. Looks kind of like the poor man's Tesla. If I commuted in it, I would save about $100 in gas a week though. http://www.electroauto.com/index.html
  6. Isn't there some button you can press that will automatically search for stations with PTY and preset them for you?
  7. I believe the function is called RDS. I THINK that if you hold down the TP button to go into the setup menu, you can turn it on or off. However, I don't have the manual in front of me, and I won't be able to check until I get home tonight.
  8. Well, remember that the front wheels are a different size than the back. There's a 50% chance that whatever you carry, it won't be the same size as what goes flat anyway.
  9. I didn't know Porsche offered the service when I bought my car last year, so I used these guys http://www.autoexam.com/ I think it was $120, but the guy caught a leaking motor mount, a burned-out airbag warning light, no reverse lights and a slipping clutch among many other cosmetic things that he listed off. The dealership agreed to fix everything on the list and warranted the airbag issue for a year because the bulb had burned out stemming from those seatbelt sensor issues. Now, despite all that and even though the mechanic that did the exam gave the engine and transmission clean bills of health, I still had the CEL light come on a day after I left the lot due to the EGR valve going out. What can you do?
  10. My similar problem with an SC engine in a '76 911S was caused by a weak, tired, old 0.8hp Bosch starter. I solved it by cleaning all the battery and ground connections and replacing the starter with a rebuilt 1.5hp Bosch starter from eBay. Mel I had the same problem on two seperate cars that were both caused by old starters that would get heat soaked and quit cranking until the car cooled down.
  11. Did you get it running? You might be able to find a specialty electronics/computer repair shop that could fix the CD-Rom drive cheaper than replacing it.
  12. Still I suggest a stainless steel screw. Does anyone know the screw size for the rotors on a 996 C2? I searched three hardware stores looking for a match yesterday and came up empty. It definitely falls into the category of "flathead machine screw," but the only thing close was a 1/4" screw, but the 1/4" seems just slightly thicker and has a slighty different thread pattern. If anyone knows the size, I need to order a few.
  13. Just wanted to say thanks for this DIY. I did all my pads and the front rotors today. Only trouble I ran into was that one of the screws holding the rotor on was stripped out. I had to drill it out to get the rotor loose. I'm going to go check Ace Hardware for a replacement, but I'm assuming it's not too incredibly vital since the wheel bolts are all going through the rotor as well.
  14. Here's a thread with more info about the PCM1 and the CD-Rom units. http://www.renntech.org/forums/lofiversion....php/t2530.html
  15. I don't know if it just slides out the way the Becker CD players do, but even if you have to remove the trim, it's not that complicated. Here's a link with photos for an install, you should probably be able to figure out your best extraction method from that. http://www.realtime.net/~rentner/Porsche/L...risPCM/PCM.html
  16. It sounds like the ground in the switch is bad or not connected. I'd test the switch, it it checks out, then you must have a short in the motor.
  17. On my 996, it scrolls either way
  18. CDR-220s have a low power line out, so they're barely going to drive a speaker if they're not amped. All CDR-220 systems had an amp in the trunk. Not true, my CDR-220 has no amp. They are likely using the wrong pin outs. My apologies. I was just basing this assumption on what I've seen. I should have done some research. Your friend should wire up to socket B http://www.beckerautosound.com/pdf_guides/om43-4462.pdf It says it outputs 18watts x 4, so it's probably going to sound tinny if he's using higher than 20watt speakers or if he has more than 4 speakers wired in as there's not enough power to drive them.
  19. CDR-220s have a low power line out, so they're barely going to drive a speaker if they're not amped. All CDR-220 systems had an amp in the trunk.
  20. This is from a Cayenne manual, which makes it sound like pretty much any button you hit would turn it back on. The program could just be stuck though and needs to basically reboot to work correctly, which would entail disconnecting the battery. Guess you have to decide if it's worth the risk. I wouldn't want to spend $1k on a new system though if my screen was actually still good.
  21. Aside from the torque/power increases, have you noticed any mpg increase?
  22. I wonder what tests EVO did in determining the placement of the MAF on their intake. I'd hope some kind of science went into it, but I'd like to see what thought process/measurements/testing their developers used. I also wonder what would happen if you cut out the Porsche stock MAF receptacle and epoxied it into the EVO in place of the EVO receptacle.
  23. Do you have portable lights or something you could plug in to see if the fault is on the car side or the trailer side? Or just a multimeter to see if you're getting power on that pin from the Cayenne when you hit the brakes?
  24. It's basically a filter for the hum. To quote from http://www.epanorama.net/documents/groundloop/ Ground loop is a condition where an unintended connection to ground is made through an interfering electrical conductor. Generally ground loop connection exists when an electrical system is connected through more than one way to the electrical ground. When two or more devices are connected to a common ground through different paths, a ground loop occurs. Currents flow through these multiple paths and develop voltages which can cause damage, noise or 50Hz/60Hz hum in audio or video equipment. To prevent ground loops, all signal grounds need to go to one common point and when two grounding points cannot be avoided, one side must isolate the signal and grounds from the other. You can see one in juniinc's photo. Here's an example. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...rentPage=search
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.