PTEC

The cover this there to prevent debris and water from being sucked up into the airbox. The early boxsters didn't have one of these and numerous cars burnt down due to sucking up cigarette butts. Its there to provide maximum reliability and safety. I highly doubt removing the plate will give you any power gains. The difference in horsepower may or may not be insignificant when bubba puts his cayman on a dynojet but it is completely insignificant to Porsche. What I mean by that is Porsche could make the boxster with 400 bhp if they wanted to, but they choose not to, and the reason definitely isn't the little plastic piece.

If the left is significantly stiffer than the right, you probably have a problem. Your best bet is to go to the dealership and compare it to another car instead of futzing with it yourself. Why even bother? You'll probably get a whole new steering wheel under warranty.

There is an adjustment under the center console and you can adjust the travel of the handle very easily. Open the storage compartment in the rear center console and pull the rubber padding at the bottom. Underneath this there is a t20 screw to remove. Once you get this up you will see a rod with two 13mm nuts on it. Using two wrenches loosen the rear most 13mm. Then tighten the front 13mm until the handle travel is 4-5 clicks. Its easiest to tighten the nut when the handle is down. Tighten it up some and try the handle. Once you get it where you want it tighten the rear most 13mm again reassemble the console.

Ive never seen blue coolant from the factory. As mentioned however, Porsche did change from green to pink recently.

Chances are if you have no faults then every thing is working ok. My only guess as to why you are not getting a reading is Durametric is a generic tool and does not have full functionality of the actual Porsche systems tester (PIWIS). I have never seen a bad solenoid in the early style cars but I have seen a few go bad in the later style (02 and on). In the later cars when they go bad, the car will not idle at all. It run terribly rough and will die sometimes. The car will have a flashing check engine light and usually at least five faults in the DME for misfires and cam timing. And yes the first boxsters had variocam and if I'm not mistaken the 968s had it as well.

I would try your luck with the new switch from Porsche. You can tell if you have new switch if the electrical portion is white and black. The old switch is solid black. The mechanical portion does fail as well, but in order to use the new switch you need to replace the mechanical portion anyways but I think its only about 150 bucks for the entire steering lock and new ignition switch assembly. The new switch seems to be pretty fail proof.

This might be covered by the emissions warranty, which is 7 years or 70,000 miles. I would try calling up the dealer and giving it a shot. This problem actually isn't all that uncommon.

Yeah 99 is the earlier style. If you can find a picture of the oil separator you can usually spot the cam sensor, especially if its a boxster and you're looking down through the engine compartment.

Yeah I made the comment about trying to fight the road crown based upon the front camber difference, but alas, I looked too quickly and didn't notice the left front was more negative, which is the opposite of what you would do to fight road crown. Either way if this was for the track, you wouldnt care anyways.

It does indeed have a fuel level sender "float" but due to the complex nature of the tank because of the 4WD system it also uses the instrument cluster to calculate fuel level when there is something like less than 3 gallons or something. There are no adjustments that can be made to the fuel level sender, however it is a fairly common failure, especially in earlier cars. You can really only test it when its removed. You would do so by hooking up an ohmmeter to it and moving the float up and down. When they're bad you will see dead spots in the rheostat that measures the movement of the float or the resistance wont read consistently or smoothly during movements. If this is the case, you'll need a new sending unit as the rheostat can not be serviced independently of the entire assembly.

I guess it depends on what you're going for, maybe looks like they're trying to help the car fight road crown. I might question the rear toe.. it just seems sloppy to leave that much of a difference side to side.

Well its a shame that this happened but you can throw a new engine in and in all reality you'll probably go problem free in all major areas of the car for another 100,000 miles. However, remember a Boxster is NOT a japanese car. You may still run into to some minor problems in areas other than the engine/trans. Its all a question of how much is driving the Boxster worth to you. If you really love it then it shouldn't hurt you to much to spend some cash on it getting in good shape.

and to add, if you cant read out the old control unit, new remotes will need to be purchased as well.

Could be the sensor died.. or a problem has developed with the wiring. I've seen a few just flat out die without any warning. However if you cleared the code and it didn't come back immediately then its probably not a flat dead sensor. A quick check using an obd2 tester with the engine running will show if its picking up anything at all. What year is your car? The cam position sensor is in slightly different locations on 99-01 and 02-04. On the earlier cars the sensor is on top of the heads while on the later cars its on the sides. Someone here probably has a picture. If you're anxious to try and trouble shoot it you could swap the sensors side to side and see if the fault returns for the bank 1 again or if it moves over to bank 2. Hope you dont have an early car because getting to those sensors is much more of a PITA.

It will likely fit in your dash but cdr23s are for 03 and on cars only.

Yeah its a grey box located right about where the hood release lever is.

There are two sets of coolant hoses running under the intake. The upper set you can replace by taking off the intake manifold. For the other large plastic hose under the upper 3, you must remove the engine. For the lower hose, I would expect about 20 hrs or more including the engine r&r.

I assume you are talking about a check engine light due to Cat Efficiency faults due to your lack of catalysts. If this is the case, changing the o2 sensors wont do anything for you to get rid of the check engine light. Your best bet is probably to look into an DME reflash. Among other things the reflashed DME has the ability to prevent the CEL from being illuminated due to certain faults (namely cat efficiency). At least I assume this is such as reflashes for many other makes and models have this ability.

You should be able to buy some deodorizer from an auto parts store that will work well. Remove the particle filter and spray some of the deodorizer into the evaporator box with the AC running. This will distribute it through out the vents and will clear up the musty smell.

This has been covered here.....a lot. Anyways, the new seal has proved to be pretty much stone cold reliable. All 997s with the exceptions of the early 05s have the new seal. That being said, I would buy a 997 regardless. Even if it has the old style seal you'll be under warranty for close to 3 more years so if it does leak, make an appointment at the dealer and pick you car up the next day with the new seal.

This is not about the mark-up, or about how much time "it actually takes" ... it is about Champion charging me 2 extra hours (at $105/h) only because they can. They could charge me 20 extra hours and there is nothing I can do ... if I want the repair to be covered by Porsche. I know that the dealer pays the wage of the mechanic based on the "book" hours, and I don't mind if they make extra money because they are efficient and can do it in less time. I hate, however, when people think that the motto of Porsche enthusiast is "More money than brains," and charge us an arm and a leg just because of the crest. Champion isn't doing anything out of the ordinary. Its pretty much concrete policy of all dealerships in all lines of cars to mark up labor on customer pay jobs. Thats just the way it is. It happens with Ferrari and it happens with Kia so don't think Champion is sticking it to you because they think you have money. What you have to understand about book time is that its created by the manufacturer and its what they will pay the dealer for doing a warranty repair, no more no less. Obviously the manufacturer wants to pay out as little as little as possible so they make times which many times are practically impossible for a mechanic to match. This is why "book" time is marked up, because the book is unreasonable for 90% of the repairs because book time doesn't include diagnosis, road testing, cleaning parts, writing estimates or any other miscellaneous things which eat up a lot of time during the course of the repair.

Not to get off topic, but I totally disagree with this statement. It is one thing for the dealer to charge you a high rate per hour, but an entirely different thing to charge you both a premium rate per hour and excess hours. I work in a business where I sell my time on an hourly basis and yes my rate per hour is high. However, I NEVER bill for more hours than I spend working for a client. My dealer charges $85/hour. At that rate, I don't expect to be charged excess hours. Will Ok, then heres my question. Do you charge a flat rate per job or do you charge straight time? If you charge a flat rate per job, I highly doubt you dont "mark up your labor." If you charge straight time then were not even talking apples to apples because no matter you're doing, while you are at "work" you are always getting paid. Another difference is what the dealer charges is not what the mechanics get paid. Take a quarter of what they charge the customer per hour and you get what the top guy with 20 years experience is getting paid.

In all reality is probably 4 to 5 hours for a pro who has done it many times to get the job done right. And I don't understand why people get upset when they find out that dealers mark up labor times. Of course they do. Do honestly think the grocery store didn't mark up the loaf of bread you bought? What about the TV Best Buy sold you? Do you pay for a car only what it cost Porsche to build it? Everything you pay for is marked up. If it wasn't marked up businesses wouldn't make a thin dime. If you're going to vilify the dealer then vilify all business because its the same anywhere you go.

Just a regular old 5/8th spark plug socket. I would get one with a universal joint on it though.

I've seen a 996 that had a problem with one of the valves in the tank vent system. When the car would purge the charcoal canister you would hear a whistling sound from the fuel filler. It sounded like someone was blowing across the lid of a beer bottle. Unfortunately it was a long time ago so I cant remember which valve it was.... maybe someone else can chime in.