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Everything posted by RODAN
Hi All, Please forgive me if I'm repeating a post. I've looked for a solution to my issue fairly thoroughly and both online or in person I have found little information on the subject specific to the automobile or mostly dismissive answers to the question: "What, if any component or piece of the transmission/clutch system governs the engagement point as it relates to pedal travel?" The car is a 2003 TT and when I had the cooling tubes pinned I had a stage 2 clutch installed. When I first bought the car I thought that the pedal "caught" high in comparison to our 2001 C4 and 2003 C2, I wanted to simply lower the progression and I expected the 600+ HP rated clutch to be heavier. In effect this all had the exact opposite effect. The clutch catches extremely high through about three degrees of pedal travel. Does anyone out there know enough about this system to perhaps comment on the situation? I am suspecting the springs govern the progression. But then what governs the spot where engagement begins? I would find the car far easier to drive if it could be moved closer to the floor. Right now I have to physically bend my knee to release the clutch and with so little progression it's actually hard to drive smoothly. I can honestly say I wouldn't buy it if I test drove it like it is now. Biggest mistake I ever made with a car. Any information or advice would be greatly appreciated.
To close out the fix for the ABS/PSM fault when installing all LED rear brake lighting: (2003, 996 C2) Purchased a 50 Watt, 30 Ohm resistor. A lot of people are using extremely low value resistors (I see 6.8 Ohm in many cases. This will get hot.) . 30 Ohms seems to keep the ECU happy and during application of the brakes will only dissipate 6 Watts of power nominally. This leaves the highest ambient temperature for the resistor that I used to operate safely somewhere about but shy of 400 degrees F. Should be fine. The resistor should be applied between the brown (GND) and black (Brake light) wires on the taillight assembly (Assuming you are reusing your lighting harness. More expensive tail light assemblies I believe have this integrated.). On the car side of the harness connector these are the brown (gnd) and black with orange (Brake light) wires. I installed only a single resistor behind the driver's side tail light and it immediately resolved the issue. This is the part I used. http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/KAL50FB30R0/KAL50FB30R0-ND/1646204 I'm also going to perform the same mod to a 2001 996 C4. Since the body electronics are a bit different I'll post whether this is successful here as well. Cheers.
Just to close the loop for everyone. I found on another site where someone had recently installed LED brake lights and had these symptoms. I had just replaced the 3rd lights with LEDs this week. They light up properly. In addition, I had replaced the conventional taillights with LEDs as well in the week prior. My first step so far has been to take the 3rd lights out and replace them with the stock units. This seemed to clear the issue immediately. No Durametric required. I have a strong suspicion that the system is placing a test signal on the lights during POST (Power On Self Test.) and the fact that either the LEDS are unidirectional is rectifying the signal and giving a really confusing response to the system. Or, the current that is produced when the voltage is imposed is causing an issue. I hope that this helps others that have this problem. And I promise as a member I will post my solution whenever possible when everyone here attempts to help out. Cheers!
Did you ever solve this? These threads are almost useless without the person asking posting what finally solved their problems. I have the same problem. Am I looking at a MAF, a wiring harness, one of two switches, a weak ground? Can someone please actually post what they've done to solve these problems? This was 2008. I have to believe that Leeshdw solved the issue somewhere between 2008 and 2015. I'd certainly be grateful. Cheers.
Has anyone tried one of these yet: http://www.bendpak.com/Shop-Equipment/QuickJack/BL-3500.aspx I purchased the BL-3500 thinking that it would be perfect to lift up my 996 turbo. We can argue about weight margin later. It seems like plenty to lift up that car. The issue becomes the lift point locations on the car. The BL-3500 can only reach out to 46" between its rubber stops. If one was to purchase the BL-5000 it only reaches about 51" maximum. I've measured 54" center to center of the 996 lift points. This seems like it makes this product a no go with 996/986 and 997/987 owners. Does anyone have any advice that would provide good placement for other spots under the car that can be used to hoist it up inside of the 46" limits. Or have I been shortsighted and wasted my time? It all seemed like it would be perfect. Cheers, Todd
I think I'm going to get those and try them out. A very compelling solution. Thanks a lot!
I wonder if anyone can help me with a part number. Can someone confirm if the part number for a 993 / Turbo (1995-1998) (C4/CABRIO) engine mount Which is part number: 993-375-049-05-M100 Is the same as the transmission mount for a 986 Boxster S part number: 986-375-084-03-M100 986-375-083-03-M100 (Right / Left respectively) without the brackets, which are what make them right/left in the first place. It is a 2x difference in cost and I'm sure my brackets are in fine shape. If anyone can suggest a good source of the parts themselves (The 993 Cab parts as opposed to the expensive, yet readily available boxster parts.) I'd be grateful. They seem difficult to come by. Has anyone performed this kind of maintenance substitution before? Thanks.
I wonder if anyone would be kind enough to help me... I have fallen victim to the lost radio code conundrum after a battery failure. The car is an '01 S The stereo is: CDR-220 Serial: Y5024619 Series: 4362 Any help figuring this out would be much appreciated. Cheers!