Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Stefan

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    513
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Stefan

  1. Now you need the silver coated turn signal bulbs to complete the look and get rid of the remaining amber color. They still light up amber, but you can't see the amber when they are off.
  2. Please take pictures and let us know how it goes. Are you planning to do an alignment after (there has been some debate as to whether or not you have to do this)? Do you have a tool for pressing the bearing out? What tool?
  3. Is there a good source for the old-style (1999, non-S) gauge faces that is not to expensive? I want to try an experiment that involves cutting the face and I don't want to do it with my only one.
  4. That seems a bit pricey. The CD changer still uses the Sony Unilink protocol. They are just providing a unit that knows that protocol. Denison has announced that they are coming out with a MOST solution imminently. There are other companies that have this too. Also, if you are a do-it-yourself type, there are electronics kits that do this.
  5. I've read that it's a waste of time. I've also read that it makes a noticeable improvement. You won't be able to say "everything I've read" any more since you just read this. :)
  6. Also check out Michelin Pilot Sport 2
  7. Have you tried bleeding the clutch? If it doesn't disengage fully you might have problems shifting. Since different gears get different amounts of wear, I wouldn't be surprised if there was different behavior for different gears. Also, if you installed a short shift kit, it may not be adjusted correctly. This would cause it to not put the transmission fully in gear no matter how hard you push the shifter.
  8. It's the same as one of the ones mentioned earlier in this thread.
  9. There's another clunking sound someone reported a while back. It turned out to be a piece of wood under the carpet in the rear trunk. I was replacing my tail light assembleys last weekend and I dropped one of the nuts and I had to pull up the carpet to retrieve it. Lo and behold, there was a wooden panel that was loose and certainly would make noise if it was rattling around. I'm going to attach it to the floor with velcro when I get a chance.
  10. Another thing to try is to adjust the rubber bumpers that are near the front edges of the hood. Believe it or not, they are threaded and are made to be adjustable. Unscrew them a little bit and they will push up on the hood. That solved the problem for me and it doesn't involve any tools.
  11. I've done this mod in two cars, a 1999 Boxster and a 2003 Boxster (non-S). In the 1999, the antenna wire is covered with an opaque white sheath. On the 2003, the antenna wire is convered with a translucent white sheath AND a black sheath that starts 130 mm (multiple of wavelength for US cars according to the Porsche TSB) from the end. In both cases, I just pulled the antenna wire out of the wiring harness and foam cover. I didn't tape the antenna, strip the wire, or add any exposed wire. In the 1999, the range went from 15 feet to 62 feet. In the 2003, the range went from 18 feet to 60 feet.
  12. I'm guessing it is the microswitch for the convertible top latch. I had the same problem on my 1999. I put a folded up piece of tape on the microswitch and the problem went away. The fix is nearly invisible and has lasted for three years.
  13. Do you have a picture of that part or a web link?
  14. I thought there was a way to press the bearing out of the hub without taking everything apart (thus avoiding the need for a realignment), no?
  15. I've smelled tires after agressive/high speed driving. I've smelled clutch after extensive stop and go driving. You can tell if it's the tires because if you pull over and put your nose to the tire it smells like what you're smelling while driving.
  16. There is such a thing as suspension efficiency. There are machines that exercise the suspension and measure the results. I just replaced the springs/shocks on my 1999 Boxster which had 70k miles (112k km) and they were long overdue. The car's ability to absorb shocks was very bad. I should have replaced them a long time ago. Shocks and springs degrade gracefully so there's no one time to replace them. I think next time I will probably replace them at 50k miles (80k km).
  17. I was just talking to the dealer about getting my 1999 Boxster aligned since I just installed the ROW M030 suspension. I asked them if they recommended realignment after a few months once the suspension had settled. He said that you should keep your eye on tire wear (don't know if this is realistic). He also mentioned that they had had tons of problems with suspensions settling on the Cayenne. The tires were being worn unevenly because the settling of the suspension was causing changes in the alignment. They have replaced many tires under warrantee because of this. So I would suspect that if you get a Cayenne, the suspensions settles, then you get another alignment a year (or more) later you might end up with a vibration due to incorrect tire wear. Once your tires are worn incorrectly, replacing them is about all you can do. Just an idea.
  18. Sorry to hear you're having so many problems. On the bright side, none of the problems you're having are disabling the car. Problems like that are the worst. I have a 1999 Boxster with 70k miles. I haven't had any major problems, although the high horn in my car occasionally stops working for a day then comes back. It's probably a loose connection. Regarding your "double beeps", does it happen when you lock the door with the key? If not, then perhaps your remote is sending an intermittent signal. The sun visor is cheap and easy to replace. It's one of the few parts that you don't get reamed on the price. What is happening to the cup holders? I've heard of problems due to hitting them on the way in or out of the car.
  19. You have to unsnap the boot at the bottom. It basically just pops out (pull up on the edges). Then you have access to the set screw, which needs to be loosened. Some shifters don't have a set screw. Once the set screw is loose, you basically just pull really hard on the shifter as it is largely held on with friction. Make sure you don't hurt yourself when it suddenly comes loose (i.e. don't pull toward your face).
  20. Here are the basic steps... 1) Remove the wheel 2) Remove the caliper bolts 3) Pull the caliper off the rotor 4) Prop the caliper in such a way that it isn't hanging from the brake line (easiest to use picture wire) 5) Undo the screws holding the rotor in place (very easy. They don't have much torque) 6) Pull off the old rotor Reverse instructions to get the new one on. Make sure to torque the caliper bolts according to spec (don't have the number with me). To get the caliper onto the new (presumably thicker) rotor you may have to push the old pads out a bit and wiggle it a bit to get the pads around the new rotor. Good luck.
  21. Check for oil leaks (including the rear main seal, spark plug tubes).
  22. How many miles did you have on your tires when the accident happened? I ask because new tires are slippery until they get scuffed (typically 50-100 miles/80-160 km).
  23. The reason people recommend 32 psi (2.21 bar) in the front is that it makes handling more neutral (reduces oversteer). I tried it and I completely agree and prefer the higher pressure in the front. YMMV.
  24. A while back someone reported a loose panel inside the trunk under the carpeting. I think they said it was obvious once they looked under the carpet. Sorry for the lack of details but it's easy to check.
  25. Out of curiosity, did you happen to weigh the two engines as a comparison?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.