Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

txhokie4life

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    643

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

 Content Type 

Everything posted by txhokie4life

  1. txhokie4life
    Do you have coolant in your oil? Oil can get in your coolant because it is at a higher pressure than the coolant. If you have it one way but not the other, it might isolate the source of the intermix. In this case maybe the oil cooler. There are other choices -- unless it is the oil cooler -- none are cheap. Mike
  2. txhokie4life
    consider an accumsump and a deeper pan and/or an X51 baffle. These engines are known to starve the #6 bearing with obvious poor consequences. I'd look are a new AOS, or at least check out the j-tube to make sure its not passing too much oil. depending on mileage I would check the water pump. I have also read that the power steering needs an additional cooler if you are tracking the car. goto sunset porsche for parts, make whatever tools you can and pick up the rest from sunset.. sounds like your brother had a 2nd gear synchro problem. -- I have heard of a few. Not aware if there is anything preventative or repairable about that failure. good luck on the track. mike
  3. txhokie4life
    If you become a contributing member -- in the member section there are manual downloads that will give you all these torque numbers you request. mike
  4. txhokie4life
    This is most likely either caused by clogged drain lines or torn convertible top catch buckets (considering the problems with the top). If the electronics are bad -- it is about an $800 fix, that can only be done by the dealership for security purposes Almost for certain the RMS -- $30 part -- 12 hours or so of labor considering the trays probably have been damaged -- you'll want to remove the top and replace them -- $75/per. not sure what the brackets cost are. The real question is why the brackets were broken. If you are in doubt have it done when the RMS is done -- and consider an IMSR (search IMS retrofit) == each part about $600, and same labor as RMS above. An indie can probably do both for $2000-$2500 -- if no flywheel issues. You'll hear them if it did! see above : you may need to pull the carpet to get the water out of there -- it is water resistant which works both ways. if the computer is corroded its at least $800. Budget another $5k and decide if $10K is good price for this vehicle. Note any 97 is likely in need of $1-2k or more in repairs. If you don't know of an indie shop or cannot do the work yourself -- repairs will cost you a fortune. Mike
  5. txhokie4life
    Getting it to push start makes me think the the fuel is fine. Have you checked to make sure the starter is turning the flywheel? (probably is but cheap check) just pull the engine cover behind the seats and see if the belt turns. There are some fail safes in the design that won't let a car start, but will keep running once running. Possibly check the crank position sensor. Although if that wasn't happy I would expect a CEL, but you never know. clutch sensor is another good candidate but I think I have read where the CPS issues can be heat related. mike
  6. txhokie4life
    Only concern I would have is the strength of the pins that the roll bar are connected to. I snapped one with a faulty torque wrench :-( Would the spacer compromise the posts? Otherwise it seems like a good idea if there is clearance for your top (you'll need to remove your windscreen) mike
  7. txhokie4life
    I think that is a Kukoo - 21-4 Don't be surprised if your KuKoo 21-4 breaks. Ours did. Than we welded to the IMS bearing race, which then of course broke. We the had to cut the bearing assembly out by hand. My mechanic partner is amazing. Took him almost 2 hours but no further problems. Put in the new IMSR -- been running great for months. Mike
  8. txhokie4life
    I think you did everything right -- you just might have a ton of oil residue left over. You might have to run it for 30 minutes or more. You can check the you are not refilling the intake with oil by looking in the tube from AOS to Intake. If you are then your root cause has not been found. Every blue moon I puff out a good stream of smoke for 15 seconds or so. I believe i have a vacuum leak as on occasion (not the same occasion :-( I get a CEL for a secondary air injection. I have yet to track this down. I do believe the two are related and that maybe somehow the vacuum issue tells the AOS to dump some oil. Now I could be just full of it -- who knows. Mike
  9. txhokie4life

    Jeff -- where are you at in PA.

    I grew up IN Philly -- but its been 30 years

    since I left.

    I can just tell by your post attitudes -- I'd love to share a beer and a cheesesteak with you :-)

    If you ever make it to Texas -- we'll have a margarita and bbq -- although there are enough germans around here -- the beer is good too!

    mike

    ...

  10. txhokie4life
    Check the timing and see if that bank is off. Also check to see if there is any valve strike marks on the #3 piston via boroscope. Metal in the filter? could be a broken valve spring -- this would be relatively cheap, esp if the valve didn't get stuck far enough open to hit anything -- but was still open enough to loose compression. good luck with it. Mike
  11. txhokie4life
    I've done at least 6 of these successfully. Patience seems to be the key. I use a little leverage and continual twist it back and forth and work the leverage around all sides of the oil pump without putting any pressure on any of the machined surfaces. some are easier than others -- and I'm sure as soon as I type this I will have one break on me :-) Mike
  12. txhokie4life
    Does swirl pot mean camshaft oil pump? Or the main oil pump? thanks, Mike
  13. txhokie4life
    Make sure to check to insure the camshaft timings and maybe boroscope the cylinders to make sure that there has been no damage to the valve train. It doesn't take much. You don't want to do the IMSR, fire it up, and then cause some further damage. But otherwise that sounds fantastic. If you have a manual - consider replacing the clutch, and definitely do the RMS while you are in there. You would have already paid 80-90% of the labor. good luck, Mike
  14. txhokie4life
    You can remove the IMS without the bolt -- it is not easy but it can be done. Do everything as if you are going to do an IMSR, then 1) There is a special tool that can be had for about $90 that hooks onto the old style puller that LNE used to distribute -- I think the old one as a K 22-1 and you want a K 21-2 or 21-4 from Kukuu. 2) If that doesn't work -- you can try to weld onto the existing bearing assembly and pull from there. 3) if that causes the assembly to disintegrate, you can still save yourself by cutting out the outer assembly you will have to clean out all the debris, consider blocking any place the debris could fall into while you are doing the work. (We have successfully done this BTW) I would check in the oil filter to see if you have any metal shavings. If you don't than the bolt failure may not have fallen into the engine, and/or it didn't cause any debris. To be safe I would short cycle the oil after startup -- maybe run it for 20 minutes than dump the oil and check the filter. You can use regular oil for this -- you are just trying to flush the system. Now something could be in a spot that hasn't caused damage and you get unlucky and now you do this and it lodges itself catastrophically. You're slightly worse off than if you disassemble now. However I would think that your odds are low that this will occur. Its your money, time and engine -- so you can make the call -- but this is certainly a possible option. good luck, Mike
  15. txhokie4life
    you only need to worry bout the vacuum sound as it sucks money out of your wallet :-) m
  16. txhokie4life
    make sure it is blue smoke .. not white. white is usually coolant and is worse. if not sure .. smell it .. if sweet could be coolant .. other wise u can smell oil burn. also u can check your intake or the intake side of the aos tube for oil and or heavy oil residue. if too much oil. you could unscrew oil filter and dump it out. a small amount of oil in there I once tried to pump oil from fill hose .. but had no luck. granted .. oil costs you $50. .. but you could dump it and refill. mike
  17. txhokie4life
    There is a rev limiter. Not sure why your engine stopped. The only way I know to over rev the engine is via downshifting and causing the wheels to back rev the engine (like engine braking) and with the lower gear ratio, it cause the engine to over rev. I could be wrong though. You could check with a Duramatic to see if the engine indicated over ranging. More than likely nothing really happened, Mike
  18. txhokie4life
    Wow 20 Hours, you can pull it -- and be down to the crank and start putting it all back together long before 20 hours :-) mike
  19. txhokie4life
    Don't know about his setup but there is a guy in Austin I know that has aftermarket turbo kits. www.turbowerx.com Mike
  20. txhokie4life
    It's pretty easy to drop the sump and look further (http://www.pelicanpa...deep_sump.htm). I would do that if you're concerned... -Wayne When you change the oil -- get an analysis done -- the type of metal in there might help you diagnose the source. mike
  21. txhokie4life
    Sorry to hear about your engine woes. I sent you a PM -- I'm and LN Engineering dealer -- maybe I can help you out. Mike
  22. txhokie4life

    I have a 3.6L 2002 with 30K miles on it

    with perfect compression.

    newly replaced water pump, coils, plugs,

    belt, LNE IMS Retrofit kit, LNE Low Temp Thermostat.

    $7500

    Ship it to me -- I'll install it for your core.

    You can then fly down and drive it back home.

    Or ship it back.

    My shop is in Austin, Texas.

    Mike Se...

  23. txhokie4life
    Outside to inside -- particles will be trapped on the outside -- usually in between the pleats. mike
  24. txhokie4life
    +1 Worry! ++ $WORRY -> SEE_MECHANIC_NOW == $_NOW || $$_:LATER Might be a good time to do an IMSR, RMS and Clutch -- if the clutch has not been done -- you're pretty close to due and you will get a peak at the bearings and see if they are the contributors. If there was any issue with the valves -- you would think that you would notice it with poorer performance or even some engine codes. Some codes will show up w/o a CEL. $GOOD_LUCK mike
  25. txhokie4life
    Now that i know that your talking about the IMS and not the main bearing -- which can get damaged with intermix (or cause it!) I think the mechanic might be scamming you. We just did a RMS/IMSR on an automatic for <$1500 -- the water pump is ~300-350 tops. I would have the car flat bedded to a local INDY w/o replacing the transmission and go from there. Mike
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.