txhokie4life

they water event and this non-start could be unrelated -- but you can check the IMMOB connector under the seat for corrosion. By what you described it seems unlikely to be the contributor, but worth looking at anyway. Maybe fuel pump or related to fuel delivery. Might also be the starter solenoid. mike

I'm putting back together one of my projects. I was tightening one of the last bolts for the rollcage (the passenger rear, forward bolt). Two many steroids I guess..... Anyway, I can't locate a head from the underside, and I'm thinking this is a bolt stud that is welded to the frame? I was hoping that it might be a double bolt (one that screws in, and then a nut goes on it), like the ones for the convertible motors. But I'm thinking it is just welded to the frame. Does anyone know for sure? thanks, Mike And this is supposed to be a fun, relaxing, hobby! C'est la vie

Well those pics of the old vs new IMS was due to me dropping in a 55K miles 2.5L in a 92K mile 2.5L that had an IMS failure. So YMMV, but I've seen up close and personal a 92K mile failure. Mike Mike-- Sincere condolences! Just curious: what were the conditions at failure? Hard to believe the anecdotes of it occuring at idle! RdR I do not know -- I bought it for next to nothing knowing the engine was shot. when we put it on jack stands the IMS bolt was looking us straight in the eye -- wedged perpendicular in between the flywheel and engine case. Mike

Resetting timing can be done with the engine in. Is there a concern with allowing the oil to interface with the bearings -- as if the oil gets inside of the bearing housing, the grease will be removed and you will have a failure on your hands. mike

Sweet -- glad it was as simple as I had hoped..... also glad I was able to give a little back to the this forum that has helped me so much..... Happy Boxstering, Mike

I don't have my durametric cable on me to check. I'm hoping my dad can bring it up to me. But, that's what I was thinking, that possible the fuse pump relay is knocked out or shorted out some how. How do I check it? How do I remove the relay for that matter?? if I remember correctly the fp eelay is next two a double space block mid panel. it pulls right out with a bit of effort. I don't have my diagrams with me but u can short the switch and get the fuel pump to run .. I have done that before to check pressure and flow... but never tried to crank it then ... fuel line drained to bucket .. also way to dump bad gas. I guess you could try to see if u can here it engage or if you have a meter check that when u r cranking the other side of relay has voltage. on my cell not near computer wi th diagrams ... sorry .. good luck

the fuse pump relay is in that fuse cluster .. did you knock it loose or short it out? I don't have the diagram near me which is which. have you checked to see if aby engine codes? m

Can't find the specs for a 3.4L 99 996 heads. I need the specs for the valve seat angles and widths? Valve guide clearance would be helpful, also. I have the valve seat heights from an previous inquiry 1.69-1.70" thanx, M

I'm on LA Porsche Dismantlers email list - just got an email from them advertising a sale on Porsche reman engines... I have no experience with these guys; just passing on the info. Skip the middle man -- they are cheaper at Sunset (who has them on sale as well) But in the OPs case -- a the core expense is a killer. m

Here is a link the article about why putting 3.6s into a 2.5 is so tough: THolyoak The very postings I was trying to remember off hand -- thanks Steve, Mike

Why is it that everyone is looking for a 3.4 as opposed to a 3.6? Doesn't the DME 7.8 requirement for the 3.6 make this a more expensive upgrade? You have to get a new DME and get it programmed to match your IMMOB? There are also wiring harness difference between the 3.6 and 3.4 -- I think I read it requires a different instrument cluster as well. someone will have the pointer that escapes me at the moment. thanks, Mike

I had a 996 3.6 engine shipped with exhaust and it weighed a little less than 450lbs. mike

Got a 2.7L that has an engine failure. Have a 3.4L 996 long block that I am rebuilding. Can I drop swap the 3.4L longblock for the 2.7L and use the rest of the engine accessories from the 2.7L? I can't conceive of any issues -- but I thought I would check... thanks, mike

Possibly a blown cylinder head freeze plug? unfortunately I bough it that way so I can't tell you what it sounded like at the time of failure. I've got a pointer to a whole rebuild of my Boxster S due to that. (search this forum) the root cause was a broken water pump. mike

Yes - IMS Retrofit. See www.lnengineering.com

Thank you, Follow on question.... Is the cable from the IMMOB to the DME as well as to the front of the cabin the same for all models? So if I had a 7.2 DME that I could somehow clone the security code to say a 5.2.2 DME, could I then just swap the 7.2 DME for the 5.2.2 DME and have it work properly with a 7.2DME engine? How about a 7.8 DME/engine. I'm trying to find a cheap Test Sled and 5.5.2 boxsters can be had very reasonably. I already have 7.2 and a 7.8 DMEs. thanks, Mike

Read over on the pelican forum that a swap of a 3.4L into a 2.5L was electrically the same. I thought the 3.4L used a 7.2DME and had the wiring harness of a 7.2DME thanks, mike

I've been told that some independents that perform the install can pass through the 2 yr warranty on reman engines. YMMV, Mike

On the bottom of the engine near the oil pan is a plate or stamp with an engine serial number. Loren has posted a picture of it on here before. Mike

I would consider it a good thing. The scuttlebutt is that the 2nd gear synchro is a common problem and a new Tranny is a small fortune. m

Might be a dying fuel pump. When they start to die, they fail first when they are hot; once cooled, they work again till hot, and then die again. Well if the removing the gas cap doesn't work, then the next time it dies, you could check the fuel pump is working properly. You're mechanic can do a fuel pressure check. You can also check to see if the fuel relay switch is engaged (one of the relays in the cabin drivers side). If it won't start, and the relay is not firing, than you can jumper the relay and get the pump to run (if it will). a good mechanic should be able to determine the state of the fuel pump assuming that he can capture the failure mode. mike Thanks - I'd thought about the fuel pump. Is there any easy way for my mechanic to test it, or should I just replace it and see if it works?

Ok I have done a few more things to research this. I have the Durametric cable/software and no faults have shown up but doesn't the car have to be running to get that to work? I have removed the panel behind the seats as suggested to make sure the belt was in place and it is. I am not getting anything from the starter at all. No attempt to turn the engine or engagement from the starter at all. I have notice in the past that the starter did make a little hum after turning the car on for just a milisecond. I am going to get the garage cleaned out on Monday or Tuesday and get the project started as suggested. If you guys have anything else you recommend different from above, I would love to hear it. Something like, "oh yea that happened to me and I just replaced a .05 cent fuse and away I went", would be nice. McD's is on me - Do they have a 2 for 1 deal meal? Boy am I going to loose weight - lets call this the Boxster diet. Step 1 - Boxster breaks down. Step 2 - use all your money to fix it. Step 3 - you cannot afford food for the next few years. Step 3 - Count your ribs in the mirror because at this point they are not abs. Step 4 - repeat often until you reach your goal weight. :censored: A few things -- 1) Pedro is just down the road -- 2) See if you can turn the crank with a socket wrench, it should turn with some effort and should never stick. When I say effort -- assuming a 16" handle or so maybe a little longer -- you should be able to turn it with some effort. If it will not turn -- than you might have broke something inside. (the crank is the middle pulley that has a tear drop hole in the front) If it does turn -- that does not rule out an IMS issue. there are some more advanced things you can do to determine things a little further -- but unless you want to be mechanically inclined -- I would start there and see what happens. You might have also had a D-chunk failure. With this you are unlikely to be able to turn the crank and you will not be able to tell without tear down or borescope. good luck -- mike

You almost have to pull the lines -- I could be wrong -- but that is what I do. mike

You can pick up a water pump for <$150 (maybe <$125) on EBAY I bought a lot of 5 for $500. i consider this cheap insurance. of course most of my work is with the engine outside of the car -- but even so it seems like the water pump is not too bad a DIY. mike

Trying to orient myself from your pix -- Just guessing -- but it might be coming from the oil pick up tube if it is cracked somehow, a cracked bellows on the AOS? There is also the oil fill tube that i just replaced that leaked onto that area as well. Mike