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txhokie4life

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Everything posted by txhokie4life

  1. txhokie4life
    To me it's sole purpose is to fail and drive you nuts trying to replace everything around the front of the car fuel related until you discover this valve exists :-) m
  2. txhokie4life
    JFP is right -- this does not sound good. You might look to see (or confirm) if there is any coolant in the oil (milkshake), if you can't tell from the dipstick -- try draining the oil and see what that looks like. Mike
  3. txhokie4life
    Do note -- the engine harness for a 97 is ever so slightly different than a 99. So if you source a 97 -- I'd swap out the harnesses. If I remember correctly it had to do with the fuel return valve -- I think the 97 was a 2 wire and later ones are a 3 wire -- but it's been about 3 or 4 years since I had to do that. I think I had to alter 3 or 4 wires -- the harness mates between the chassis and the DME. Options are limited when dealing with a non-egas (99 and earlier) unless you want to do the conversion work. Nothing will be "plug and play". Does anyone know if you can just take the 2.5L intake and wire harness and put it on a 2.7 long block? Mike
  4. txhokie4life
    It's a small amount of time to take the axles off, and it can be a pain if you have it out and can't get the leverage to break the torque. I'm assuming the loosening of the TC bolts is just that you might have more leverage with it held in place by the car. m
  5. txhokie4life
    drop together, easier to get it out. Much easier to get it back together and aligned. m
  6. txhokie4life
    You'll need the housing around the water pump from your old engine as it has a take off to the tranny.
  7. txhokie4life
    I was estimating the relative cost difference. Add the gasket and its ~$250 while the Graf was $47.50 with the gasket. I'm still leaning towards OEM. Pulled the Trigger on OEM -- $180 delivered including gasket from Sonnen. m
  8. txhokie4life
    I've got a rattling coming from the front of the engine -- suspecting water pump pulley. Thinking about ordering ahead of time for when I get the chance to dig into it. Only have 30K on my CTT -- but I know Boxsters loose WPs every 30k or so. Porsche's pump is $250 Graf is $50. Several in-between. thanks, Mike
  9. txhokie4life
    Best guess to me sounds like a pulley going out? I've read the 04's had issues with the water pump. I'm just shy of 30K miles -- Normally -- I'd take of the belts and see what it sounds like -- but the work area there is ummmmm -- tight. I've got a sharp indy -- but I'm trying to do a reasonable prefetch of parts to reduce down time as its my daily driver. thanks, mike
  10. txhokie4life
    failing/failed AOS. check the intake Mike
  11. txhokie4life
    +1 hydrolock
  12. txhokie4life
    First I have heard of this -- I'm not that familiar with the Turbo's -- is it possible the tensioning pully is weakening? How much deflection do you get in the belt with the engine off, I'm not sure if the best way is to measure at a common point lateral deflection -- or rotation/twisting? I don't think the tensioner is adjustable, but it might be. Just a quick cheap thought.... A little more elaborate -- one could fashion up some sort of rain diverter around the belt. Mike
  13. txhokie4life
    check vacuum -- for idle issues. use clarks-garage as a reference for anything mechanical. if you know what your doing -- you might want to ask about when the last time the timing belt was replaced. M
  14. txhokie4life
    Nice work and thanks for sharing! M
  15. txhokie4life
    actually yours should be a 2.5L. the 2.5L are 97-99, the 2.7/3.2s were available from 2000-2005 as a M96 engine. While a 2.7/3.2 could technically work in a 97 you would need to use the 97 wiring harness and 97's throttle body because the 2.5's are non-Egas (throttle cable) -- the 97 used a 5.5.2 DME and the 2000-2002 used a 7.2 DME, 2003+ uses a 7.8 DME. Mike
  16. txhokie4life
    I don't consider myself to be a guru, but this is what I do based on the recommendations of my engine building buddy. dino 10w/40 -- my choice castrol GTX, but I'm not sure it matters exactly. I run for about 20 minutes -- dump the oil then dino 20w/50 for 500 miles -- dump that oil -- keep revs below 4k. then good to go with synthetic of your choice. Also don't lug the engine and when you have the opportunity use engine breaking I'm sure others will chime in. Now if it's a race engine -- or used just for the track -- we just rebuild it -- do the 20 minute dump then run the ***** out of it on track -- but we know we're not going to get 100K more miles out of it and putting along with a track only vehicle for 500 miles at 4K RPMs isn't going to work :-) That and we dump the oil after each race weekend. Mike
  17. txhokie4life
    The 2008 was a slight remodel year -- not sure of all the changes. Some aero which is supposed to help gas mileage slightly (it needs all it can get). Check to see if the 06 has had the coolant pipes fixed. I bought a Silver/Black 2008 CTT last November. I like the Silver/Black combo for me -- as it hides dirt well :-) -- it acts as my daily driver/tools hauler/track support/tow vehicle. Aside from gas mileage -- I love it. Mike
  18. txhokie4life
    there is a freeze plug in the heads that if there was ever an overheat -- this can blow and you will get intermix immediately. mike
  19. txhokie4life
    first thing to check is if the tach bounces when you attempt to start up. If not -- then power to DME and/or ref/crank sensors are not hooked up right. I would also make sure the disto is on properly -- if not you could end up getting spark to it -- but not to your wires. Mike
  20. txhokie4life
    no -- but it's a pain as you have to work by feel. I think it's a 10mm holding it in place. Mike
  21. txhokie4life
    probably work if the 2.7 is 2000-2002 (before they added the dual variocam) you will have to use the 99's intake -- because of the Egas for the 2.7's there might be some wiring harness delta's -- I found a subtle one putting a 97 2.5 in a 99, but it wasn't major -- had to do with the fuel purge valve was 2 wire in 97 and 3 wire in 99. same for a 3.2, although then you'll want the third radiator for cooling. M
  22. txhokie4life
    Replace the valve that is under the drivers side intake. Seen this on an 00 Base and an early 2000ish S (not sure what year it was) m
  23. txhokie4life
    Tim 100% it's your starter. Replaced 2 of them that made the exact same sound. Mike
  24. txhokie4life
    Sorry these are the best pix I have handy Here are the solenoids that control the vario-cams -- there are 2, one that manipulates the cam chain between the exhaust and intake and the other manipulates the cams themselves hydraulically More of an insitu picture A little hard to see in this picture -- but you can see the two electrical connections amongst the coil paks.
  25. txhokie4life
    If it is not a factory engine -- and you don't have access to one of JFP's awesome setups.... Is there a micronometer that you can insert into the sparkplug then expand it out horizontally and measure the bore? I don't remember the difference -- but it;s probably something like 100mm vs 102mm Mike
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