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Everything posted by bigbuzuki

  1. L3 is the ride height compressor relay. It is located on relay support 1 panel on the left side of the dash.
  2. If you do have power at both terminals of fuse 56 and no power at the plug as measured from red/yellow and chassis, you must have a broken red/yellow wire from the fuse 56 to the plug.
  3. The red/yellow wire at the blower should always have 12 volts on it. The black wire on the blower goes to ground through the regulator. Try measuring from the red/yellow wire to a chassis ground and see If you get any voltage. You can also put a fused jumper wire from the black motor wire to a chassis ground and see if the motor works. This will bypass the regulator and give you a clue if it's regulator or motor issues.
  4. That is correct. Even when you change the mounts, the idle still dips as witnessed by your tachometer, but you just don't feel it anymore.
  5. I never had the start issue you stated in your first post, just the idle dip when vehicle coming to a stop with resulting shudder through the chassis. Along with the engine mounts, I had the transmission mount, all four O2 sensors, water pump, coolant thermostat, spark plugs replaced as well for preventative maintenence. Cleaned the Maf sensors and throttle body as well. Car runs well and smooth, however the idle dip is still there, but not felt anymore.
  6. I had my motor mounts replaced 1 month ago as I was getting vibrations through the chassis especially when the idle dipped briefly coming to a stop. Am happy to report that although the idle dip is still observed on the tacho, no vibration can be felt through the chassis anymore. It is smooth as silk. Changing the mounts will mask the vibration, but not cure it. Still worth doing for vibe free performance.
  7. Agree 100% with Pkscheldt. Changing the valve body and then doing regular fluid changes will return and maintain your transmission shifting smoothly. My 2003 turbo had the same issues which have since disappeared after the valve body replacement. That was 30k miles ago. Being an early model, I also had to have the transmission control unit replaced as part of a TSB requirement.
  8. It is a 95557215002, 95557215003, 95557215005, 95557215006, 95557215007 depending on your VIN.
  9. You could try replacing the screen yourself. Here is a link from someone who has done it. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/30230-porsche-pcm-21-screen-replacement-tutorial-video-pics/
  10. This is not a normal condition.As dan87951 states, you need to read the codes.
  11. There are 2 coolant Tees that need changing. http://sonnenporscheoemparts.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=94810603551&make=Porsche&action=oePartSearch&siteid=215405 http://sonnenporscheoemparts.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=95510632350&make=Porsche&action=oePartSearch&siteid=215405
  12. The IE81 conversion as per TSB 1001 does not require the throttle body or the air intake to be replaced. As for the induction changes, only the intercoolers and charge pressure pipes are replaced, along with DME reprogramming.
  13. Removed the entire panel where the spring loaded cover is attached. Found the latch itself was loose. Would the position of the latch have anything to do with the actuator function? To test the system you can simulate the door closing as follows.With the door open, you can push the door mounted central latch closed with your finger. 2 stage clicks as you move it to the left. When you do this the latch actuator under the spring loaded cover should run and pull in the hook. To release, pull the switch on the door and both the latch on the door and the actuator under the spring cover s
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