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wrinkledpants

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About wrinkledpants

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    Contributing Member

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    Male

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  • From
    Denver
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    04 CTT
  • Former cars
    88 911 3.2
    B5 S4 Avant

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  1. Here is the picture image to go with my part numbers I've listed above. From what I've heard - you can reach all of these from the lower side if you don't mind working in confined spaces with some scratched up hands. You can download the Porsche PET catalog for the 955 from Porsche themselves, FYI.
  2. This would be the first Cayenne pump I've heard of failing. Have you tried to see if the headlight pumps, or rear washer work - just to make sure it's not a switch issue? What year is the Cayenne?
  3. You can't. Need the whole housing. Just find one on eBay if you don't want to buy new.
  4. If you have this code, you have a boost leak somewhere that needs to be fixed. Sometimes, tracking these down can be tricky. You can check your charge hoses (after the IC), the diverter valves, N75, and plenum - but if that doesn't reveal anything obvious, you'll need to take it to the dealer to have them pressure test it.
  5. Did you need any special tools, or are standard hand tools fine? I thought I remember seeing a write up, and it looked fairly intense, even for someone that does the majority of their own work on the car.
  6. Use a flat-blade screwdriver and insert it where the notch is on the edge. Pry it out. Don't use your key. There is a flat blade screwdriver in the tool-box in the trunk.
  7. I'd see if you can swap one of the light assemblies from the opposite side in to see if it works. If not, then I'd guess you have a wiring issue somewhere. No clue where you would begin looking for that.
  8. You need to be willing to pay some money to troubleshoot. There is nothing we can do if you're not able to get somewhere to have an actual diagnostics done. And, I can't think of anything you could do since you need an AC hose setup to test for leaks, a Durametric to test the servos. It would be unusual to have all your servo motors fail to the point that the back of the car blows warm air out of all the vents. Without a Durametric or a trip to the dealer - there will be no way to know for sure. It could be an AC system charge issue, but it usually impacts both front and back. I'm not aware of any switch or servo in the AC refrigerant lines between the front and the back, as I believe it's an open system. So, that leaves something wrong with your evaporator in the back, or some type of check valve. But, again - that's going to be above and beyond the skill of any Midas tech, or what a Durametric could troubleshoot.
  9. I'd start with taking a mirror and following the valve cover gaskets all the way around. That's the more common area for oil leaks that drip down the side of the motor. And, on an 2003 car - you're likely going to need to replace those from age if you have low miles on the car.
  10. Dynavin is a popular choice as it's designed to be an OEM-like replacement. However, it's 800 bucks. AvinUSA is also working on a unit that should be out this year at some point. Same setup - designed for OEM integration, and priced similar to the Dynavin unit. I'm holding out for the Avin unit, my self.
  11. I've read about others having a similar issue, and they crack the air hose on the strut to manually lower the car down to a reasonable position.
  12. You're never out of the clear. It's not a defect that only revealed itself early in the mileage range. It seems most of the scored cars come from cold climates where they see cold starts routinely. So, if the car has always been a southern car, I think that helps. Good habits can help mitigate the problem, too. Don't let the car idle after starting. Get in, start it, drive off slowly. If you let it idle and warm up, the engine is spending a lot of time in its highest wear state. Don't go WOT until the oil temp is warmed up. Try to drive it as gingerly as possible until the engine temp and oil temp are up to speed. If the car has made it this far, that's a good sign. But, you're never really "out of the weeds."
  13. Sometimes codes are symptoms or a problem, and sometimes codes are the problem. If you get a misfire, that's a symptom of something not being right. Could be bad coils, plugs, an injector, etc. If you have an open/short to ground code on a camshaft, that's saying the camshaft sensor is bad. Sounds like the camshaft sensor is bad, and you have sometime of evap leak in the fuel system. My guess is the camshaft is what's causing the engine problems. I'd focus on that first.
  14. Have you checked whether you can do the output tests with Vagcom? That should tell you if the flaps can move their full range.
  15. Do a search on which fuses to pull to test the fuel pumps. Crank position sensor would be my next guess. It might not throw a code until things start to get really bad, though.
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