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1999Porsche911

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Everything posted by 1999Porsche911

  1. Platinum plugs are all hype when in fact a copper plug is a better and safer plug, especially in high compression engines. The only benefit to platinum is they last longer, but you also pay considerably more for them. Go with the 2 electrode NKG's.
  2. Don't touch the lifters until you try putting a better oil in the crankcase. Try some 10W40 or 5W50 if cold where you live and 15W50 if you live in moderate+ climate.
  3. You are correct that they are using the incorrect math. However, dyno results mean very little anyway as far as performance, so why not just add what you want. :D
  4. Get yourself a good scanner so you are not bllind. You sensors will most likely tell you what is going on.
  5. Probably your brake shoes sticking on the drum. They are not retracting when the parking brake is released. Noise will probably go away if you do not use the parking brake.
  6. Disconnect the negative battery cable for a few minutes and then reconnect. You will need to reenter your radio code. The engine will hunt for a while until it relearns the f/a mixture, but should settle down if the reboot corrected the problem. Have you cleaned the MAF?
  7. Don't rule out the quality ignition switch Porsche uses in your car.
  8. And THAT is exactly why numbers produced by a dyno have no credibility. (except for keyboard racers). :)
  9. The operator was on his computer doing his thing. I know after two runs after driving an hour in the heat, the numbers were consistently 7HP lower. After it sat for 15 minutes with fans blowing on the engine, and radiators up front, that's when I got the better result. Well that sounds about right. 262.9hp vs 252hp, and 233.5 torque vs 218. Headers, Fabspeed exhaust, and Fabspeed intake is probably the difference. Anyone know why the drop of HP around 5300 RPM, and the spike back up at shortly after? The 993 stock dyno I saw pretty much did the same thing at a different RPM. The drop in power is the resonance valve opening up on the second crossover intake tube.
  10. A typical dyno (if you MUST believe that they are accurate) shows 252 rwhp on a 99 C2 6speed. And, NO, your dyno would not have been higher on a cooler day if both the operator and the "theory" behind a dyno were accurate. Variables in temps, pressure, altitude, etc, are all adjusted for to provide for consistant results. So 252 RWHP versus a reported BHP of 296. That assumes that you can believe either of those numbers. RW torque is 218.
  11. I have a 99 C2 and I DO NOT have tapping at start up even after sitting for 2 weeks. However, the only time I use Mobil 0W40 is to oil the hinges on the doors. :)
  12. A pressure bleeder works very well. Connect to resevoir, set to about 15 - 20 psi and bleed.
  13. DO NOT pump the clutch with valve open. If you are bleeding it manually, pump a few times and hold to floor. Open valve and then close. Repeat as necessray.
  14. IF you have eliminated other things like Loren syggested, take a look at the temperature sensor. There have been many sensors that have gone bad and will give you the same symptoms. The sensor is located on bottom of engine just below A/C compressor. Pull off the connector and try cleaning contacts. Also, rule out a computer glitch by rebooting the computer.
  15. Cam activator cover. Common to leak or sweat a little oil. Snug up 2 bolts and it may stop the leak.
  16. I'm not even a little pissed about that one, cause the color's fine...it must have been the lighting around the time I took the photo outside. I'm around plenty of P-enthusiasts who probably would have brought it up even if I wasn't very sensitive to the subtlety of a color difference. Thanks for your constructive help on this thread. I'm surpised you think that the color is fine, as it is not. Many of the Artic Silver cars came with the front bumper improperly painted. Right color, but layed down in the wrong direction. Mine came that way and dealer had to repaint before deliverly. As far as the leather goes, saturate the seat with mink oil like you would a baseball glove. Let it sit for a day. Rub it in real well and wipe clean using a good leather conditioner.
  17. If he is "pissed" off that there is an ashtray in the car, he will become suicidal now that it was pointed out that his bumper color does not match the rest of the car. :rolleyes:
  18. 1 line goes to the vacuum canister and the other to the butterfly valve in the back crossover intake tube.
  19. Thanks. And I have another somewhat related question about clutch pedal travel. The dealer claims that they replaced the clutch disc when they replaced the RMS at 24,200k. I don't experience any slippage but the pedal travel to point of engagement seems to vary. At times it engages close to off the floor, but at most times it seems to engage at about midpoint or higher to full release. It does not require pedal to the floor for shifting at most times. They did flush and fill the hydraulic fluid, which I understand is the same system for both clutch and brakes. Fluid level is stable. Again I am wondering if this is "normal". I really appreciate the information. Thanks John Make sure it is not your imagination. However, the engagement point should be at the same point in the pedal's travel, each and every time. If not, your hydraulic lines may be flexing or it may be a bad or loose clutch slave or even a bad actuator lever. This asumes that the system is properly bled.
  20. I would demand that they fix the problem, whether it need a new tranny or whatever. Powertrain warranty should cover it. It will only get worse. You should be able to bounce of the rev limiter into the next gear with no grinding or noise at all.
  21. There should be no grinding of any gear on an upshift, no matter how fast and hard you shift. If there is grinding, you have a problem, either with the disengagement of the clutch or the transmission or just not knowing how to shift properly. Those who say it is normal are living in denial or maybe just looking to justify their problem by finding others with the same. Your car should be under warranty and I would demand that the problem be corrected.
  22. Just leave the key on, turn on the headlights for 30 minutes and then try to start. If it starts fine, your battery is in good shape.
  23. Save your money and just pick up the NGK BKR6EK plugs for $30 for all 6..
  24. Relays #19 and 21 are for the stage 1 fans. To eliminate the relay as the cause, switch each stage 1 relay with stage 2's. Bottom row, further right and 3rd from right are for stage 2 and 2nd and 4th from right are stage 1.
  25. Hold the front of the pulley with a wrench and loosen the nut behind it. They are about $50 from dealer.
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