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1999Porsche911

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Everything posted by 1999Porsche911

  1. 1999Porsche911
    Cintinue driving it and don't worry. Since they say you need an engine replacement anyway at your expense, if it drives fine, why worry about it? It makes a noise that everybody asks, what is that? So I know it will eventually fail and leave me stranded on the side of the road in a puff of glorious smoke. So I don't think I really want to do that option but might have to. I checked my pockets this a.m. and still didn't have $11,000 laying around either. By the way - PCNA said they wouldn't provide any assistance..... So I'm at a loss for now. I'll take it to a 3rd service place and see what they say. This might sound too simple and even ridiculas, but it happened with a buddy's 997. Everytime he started the car, he got a god awful metal rattling noise from the back of it. Dealer could not determine what it was. He came by one night and I listened to it, over and over again until we found out what it was. The noise would only occur for a few seconds after each startup. Problem: Bottom of the back license plate was vibrating against the car.
  2. 1999Porsche911
    Cintinue driving it and don't worry. Since they say you need an engine replacement anyway at your expense, if it drives fine, why worry about it?
  3. 1999Porsche911
    The car hasn't been back to the dealer since it was in for an oil change in September, and they were able to reproduce the symptoms on another 2005 997. It DOES still do the brake slip thing at the bottom of the driveway. I'm nor sure about your ABS self test theory. After backing out of the garage, depending on how our other cars are parked, it takes one or two forward and backward turns to point down the driveway, and we have to slow down once or twice before our gate (all downhill and driving forward). After exiting the gate to the street and putting brakes on, that's the only time the brakes slip. It happens whether in gear or neutral, and in either Tip mode or manually in 1st or 2nd. It's still irritating, especially since my '01 Boxster has never done this. Based on the time involved, I think the ABS self test would have probably happened sooner. The next time the car is in (probably soon since the radio now changes stations at random - I think there's a TSB on this), I'll have it checked again and report back. Just drive to the dealer and right through the front windows. Tell them that the brakes slipped again. That should get someone looking into it. Or better yet, wait for the service manager to leave and rearend him in the parking lot.
  4. 1999Porsche911
    I participated in a rally over the past weekend and found my speed and distance traveled to be 7% higher than the "official" rally data for the route. This was confirmed using my Garmin 2610 yesterday. If that is true, then simply get the odometer (on stock rims and wheel sizes) certified by a licensed company to be off XX%. Provide this to Porsche in a certified letter as well as provide it to the dealer and have it noted in their files and chances are, you will be covered under warranty for the percentage of mileage over the difference. I still find it hard to believe that running stock wheels and tires sizes show much diffeence between odometer reading and actual miles drivien. I have yet to test a car that shows more than a 1% difference. Again, the incorrect reading of the speedometer is UNRELATED to the calculated input used for the odometer.
  5. 1999Porsche911
    At approximately 5200 rpm, the resonnance valve on the intake crossover tube pops open. This will cause a noticable abrupt change (drop) in engine power as it opens for a split second then the power continues on it's upward move. Normal.
  6. 1999Porsche911
    To remove the sensor, disconnect the connector in the engine compartment and pull it down to the bottom of the car. Then simply unscrew the sensor using whatever wrench fits. Why do you think your O2 sensor if bad? Have you looked at it's readings. What CEL code are you getting?
  7. 1999Porsche911
    Remove from the bottom. You can also easily remove it with an open end wrench. No special tool needed.
  8. 1999Porsche911
    I have tested several 996's and have yet to find the odometer off by very much at all. The speedo can be off as much as 10%, but the odometer, at least on my Porsches and others I tested, appear to be close to miles driven. IF your odometer is substantialy off running stock tire size, prove that to Porsche and they will extend your warranty mileage. (at least in the States) Odometer uses the unadjusted signal as determined by the computer.
  9. 1999Porsche911
    Better make sure they are putting the new release arm in also.
  10. 1999Porsche911
    If the clutch was just changed by the dealer, they owe it to you to resolve the noise, even is they have to yank the tranny again. The installer is responsible for inspecting al related componants for proper operation. Don't be shy...go back and demand that they fix it.
  11. 1999Porsche911
    I would be curious to get a reading of the MAF while coasting to a stop. Based on the 1123 and 1125 codes, it appears that the computer is thinking it is getting more air than it really is and that is why the O2 sesnors are trying to lean the mixture out. If you watch both the airflow readings AND the intake temp readings closely, you may see a blip before the codes are thrown which might indicate a problem with a ground. Do this codes get thrown after a WOT run, or simply driving casually? Is there a screen BETWEEN the filter and the MAF?
  12. 1999Porsche911
    IF your car is a 99 or an early 00, and the shop that replaced you clutch did not replace the actuator lever, then, they should pull the tranny and do so, free of all labor charges. The parts are about $50. Shops and dealers should make themselves aware of any and all TSB's when performing work. I had a local shop replace my clutch and forgot to replace the actuator. Clutch slippage and noise occured. I didn't even ask them to do so, but they dropped the tranny and repaired it properly at no charge to me. If a Porsche dealer did the work, then they do not have a leg to stand on and will fix it for you free.
  13. 1999Porsche911
    Remove the large hose from item #1. Disconnect the vaccum line from the electric change over switch that goes to the air valve #2. Apply a vacuum to the line (find someone who sucks well) and you should be able to blow through the large hose. If not, remove air valve and inspect it further. Item $5 is simply a check valve. If the airp pump is working and the changeover valve is working, it can only be a bad air valveor the wiring to it.
  14. 1999Porsche911
    Looking at the engine from the rear, the compressor is the top, right pulley that the serpentine belt goes around. When the A/C is off, the center of the pulley should not be turning. When it is on, the center should be spinning. You can also check from inside the car by turning off and on the A/C. You should notice a change in idle between ON/OFF.
  15. 1999Porsche911
    Check to see if the compressor clicks on when the air is turned on. Have someone push the A/C button while you watch the compressor on the engine.
  16. 1999Porsche911
    Thank you for the responses. One more question on indicator failure messages. Am I correct that the "indicator failure" message is intended to convey a problem with the gauge or sensor, and that if my oil pressure was indeed dropping to zero and the gauge were accurately reflecting the zero reading I would not get the "indicator failure" message? Thanks for your help. Extremely unlikely that your pressure ever fell to ZERO with the engine running. My be just a loose wire on the sending unit of a bad unit altogether. Unlikely that it is the gauge.
  17. 1999Porsche911
    You have to turn the alternator clockwise in order to clear the mountng points. Then it lifts right out.
  18. 1999Porsche911
    You need to remove the alternator for easy access to the changeover valve.
  19. 1999Porsche911
    If you want to confirm that the electric changeover valve is the problem, you can switch it with resonance valve changeover valve that is just above the alternator. Simply remove the 2 switches and swap them. It is safe to drive the car.
  20. 1999Porsche911
    Here is what I would do. Assuming that the pump is working. With the engine running, remove the vacuum line for item #3 that goes to the vacuum reserve canister #6. There should be constant vacuum. If not, the other end of the hose is disconnected from #6 and your air changeover valve will not open. Next, on a cold engine, remove the other vacuum line from item number 2. Start the car, at which time the pump should start. You should be getting a vacuum in the disconnected line until the pump shuts off. If not,. problem is with the electric changeover valve #3. On the other hand, you can immediately jump to the end and remove the larger hose from the non return valve (#4). On a clod engine, the pump should start and there should be air blowing out of the hose. When the pump shuts off, the blowing will stop completely. If this is the case, then you can safely assume that everything before this point back to the pump is working as designed. The function of the system is simple. There is constant vacuum to the change over valve to which a vaccum line to the air valve is connected. When off, the changeover valve does not allow vacuum to get to the air valve. When on, (pump running) the valve activates and allows vacuum to get to the air valve and allows air to pass into the manifold through the one way valve. Jim
  21. 1999Porsche911
    What may be happening, as mentioned above. is that at closed throttle the ICV is stuck in a position that does not allow enough air to get into the intake. Remove the valve by removing the 2 screws and gasket and spray liberally with carb cleaner. Reassemble using same gasket. When you clean it, move the actuator manually to be sure it is not jambed. Jim
  22. 1999Porsche911
    Under NO circumstances should you lose ANY coolant if the system is functioning properly. It is a sealed system and short of a leak or substantial overheating, no coolant will ever be lossed. Evaporation cannot occur in a vacuum. The first part of your statement is correct, but please don't tell people that evaporation cannot occur in a vacuum. That's just plain wrong. Lower pressure (vacuum) actually helps fluids vaporize. Of course I'm not sure what that has to do with this conversation since the coolant system isn't under vacuum, it's either at atmospheric pressure or it's pressurized. My guess is that you either have a small leak in your system as described by others, or you're seeing the natural expansion and contraction of the fluid due to temperature variations. That's the whole point of the expansion tank (to coolant excess fluid the system can't handle when it warms up). Shawn In order to have a static vacuum, you must have a completely leak free environment. You cannot leak, or otherwise loose substance in a system that is air tight. This has absolutely nothing to do with vaporization which does not result in an unrecoverable loss of coolant in a closed system.
  23. 1999Porsche911
    Throttlebody bolts are secure, as is all other fasteners and clamps on the intake/air cleaner body. Where do you suggest I tap in to get a vacuum reading? Any vacuum line will work. What is your MAF readings at idle with AC off?
  24. 1999Porsche911
    Of coarse there is a spring. If you don't have one, you found your problem. Look above the pedal and you will see a spring several inches long attached to the frame and the other end to the pedal. It is a black spring. There are also 2 springs in the master cylinder.
  25. 1999Porsche911
    What is the vacuum reading at idle? Make sure the 4 bolts on the throttlebody are tight. What is your MAF reading at idle with A/C OFF? Make sure MAF is seated properly with good O ring and that entire intake is secure.
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