Jump to content

Server Lease Renewal/Software Licenses

Our yearly server lease, software licenses, as well as hardware operating costs, ARE due Dec 6th, 2021. Our current donations have fallen far short of the funds we need to renew. Please remember the RennTech.org community is Member supported so please consider a donation to help...  THANK YOU!

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

lenobleb

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    25
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by lenobleb

  1. Hey, Last year I had some significant maintenance done on my 2000 911 Cab. The shop had to disconnect the battery to perform some of the work and when I got it the radio just displayed the ‘code’ message. I had the issue before and I remembered I was able to get the code on line. I thought I wrote it down but I was not able to find my code. I don’t drive the car often and when I do the top is usually down and the radio off. So now that spring is here I go to take the car for a ride and the battery is dead and won’t hold a charge (after 10 years the battery doesn’t owe me anything). I install a new battery and then I decide to solve the radio code issue once and for all. So I do some searching and find this thread. I record the Radio S/N and then think ‘this is probably the way I got the code the first time.’ So I go to 2010 and sure enough, my post is still there and the code did work. At least I wrote it down! Thanks Loren! You really are amazing. Barry
  2. Hey, One real simple to check is that the floor mat is properly positioned and has not slid forward under the clutch pedal. That happens occasionally to me and it prevents the clutch from fully disengaging. Barry
  3. Hi, The counter is for the electronic oil level monitor. The amount of time is for the level to be displayed. When the car has been sitting for some time, the oil has flowed down to the oil pan, and the level can be detected quickly. If the car has been running, and then off for just a short time, the oil level can't be detected until enough time has allowed for the oil to return to the pan, so the time can be some number of minutes. You do not have to wait at all, just turn the key on, and then to 'start'. You should monitor the oil level on a regular basis - and I prefer the dipstick. Lastly, the manual is available from the dealer if you wish to purchase one. Good luck, Barry
  4. Hello, You are really worrying too much about this. Only a small amount of oil will remain in the engine. Not a big deal considering how much oil the engine holds. Regarding the amount to add, add 7 qts then start the engine and move the car to level ground. Wait a few minutes and add oil until the dipstick reads full. Running the engine at idle with low oil volume won't do any damage. I would not recommend running it at redline and at high G loads with low volume but running at idle for a minute won't cause any problems. Lastly, if you are really worried about the small amount of old oil in the engine just change the oil a little sooner than you normally would. Good luck, Barry
  5. Hey, There are a number of differences between the early (99-01) and late (02+) cars. The headlights are different. The interior has a lot of improvements including glove box, trip computer, 3 spoke steering wheel, etc. The motor is the biggest difference, larger displacement and another 20 HP. When I was in the market (early spring) I wanted an 02 or newer car. I could not find one in my price range so I ended up with an 00 and I have not regretted it. Make sure you look at the interior of the early and later cars to see if that is important to you. Good luck, Barry
  6. Hey, You will still need to paint the CF hood. The UV in sunlight will break down CF fairly quickly if it is not protected by paint or some other covering. Since you need to paint anyway, I think your best bet would be to get your hood repaired or replaced with stock and paint. Good luck, Barry
  7. Hello, Back in March when I bought my 00 C2 Cab, I knew the windshield washer did not work. Since I only drive the car on nice days, this is not a serious problem. However, last week I decided to do a little work to see what is going on. My work was not hard, just hold the washer switch and see if I could determine what is happening. Well, I heard the pump run (good sign), but no fluid spraying out. I was able to pull one of the rubber nozzle hoses off. I tried to blow through it, but I was not able to. Is that normal or is the nozzle clogged? I then reconnected the nozzle and held the spray switch on. I heard the pump run, then a splash and I saw fluid pour from underneath the car. Tomorrow I will take the LF wheel and liner off and take a look at the tank and plumbing. I assume the tank is bad. If that is true I will get a new tank, but I need to know if I should be able to blow through the washer nozzle or not. I don't want to blow up a new tank. Thanks, Barry
  8. Hey, I had a similar problem with my new to me 00 cab. I was all set examine the clutch switch. When I lied down to look at the switch, I saw that the floor mat had slid forward so the clutch pedal didn't go all the way down. I moved the mat back and no more problems. Barry
  9. Hello, So I never checked the rear spoiler operation on my new to me 00 cab (purchased in March). Monday, my family and I were at the same place, and had two cars. My wife followed me home for a bit, and I asked her to see if the rear spoiler raised. I accelerated to 70 and asked her if the spoiler went up. "No spoiler" she said. I went 75, still no spoiler. I went 80 for about 15 second, still no spoiler. OK. it seems the spoiler isn't working. Today I did a few minutes search on RennTech, then started checking the car. It took about 1 minute to find the problem, and about 2 minutes to fix it. I removed the fuse box cover and saw there was no fuse in row D fuse 5. Then I saw that the fuse box was not in the proper position, it was too low in the carpeted trim piece, such that the spoiler switch was stuck with the 'down' switch continuously pressed. I remove the screws (only 3 present) so I could remove the trim piece, repositioned it properly, installed a fuse, and tested the switch. Voila, the spoiler now goes up and down. I guess some hack must have worked on the car and screwed up the fuse box location. I see signs of someone having been in there, there is a wire bundle tie wrapped in place. Now it's all good (I even put the 4th screw back in). I'll have my wife check again, but I'm confident it will work. What seems strange is that when I start the car the spoiler light illuminates, then goes out when I start to drive. I guess I'm lucky I didn't fly off the road when I took curves at 70! :) Barry
  10. Hey, My 2000 Cab came with 'Sunny' tires. I did a little research and found they are a Chinese knock off of something (I forget which). Anyway, they must have been cheap, but they suck. They are quiet, but the grip is not very good. I can't wait until I wear them out so I can put something else on. So I don't recommend Sunny tires. Barry
  11. Hello, Yes, that is correct. From the factory, you can open the top with the key in door (hold it to the unlock position), with the key in the ignition and the engine off, or with the engine running and the parking brake on. There are aftermarket kits that allow you to open / close the top at up to 30 mph, but I have no experience with them. Barry
  12. Hey, This is very simple - your car is low on oil. Most likely, the shop didn't add enough oil after the oil change. Since your check with the dipstick confirms the gauge reading, you need to add at least 1/2 a quart of oil, and more than likely will need to add a full quart. There is no magic in a porsche engine, it needs oil just like every other engine. It would be good if you could add the same type and weight oil as already in the car, but any synthetic oil will do. Add the oil, drive the car, check in a 100 miles or so and make sure it's not using too much oil. Good luck, Barry
  13. Hello, I had a similar problem in my new-to-me 2000 C2 cab. One day the car was fine, next day it was dead. In my case the battery just died. I suspect that internally is broke such that it had proper voltage (about 12.7 at rest, and not excessively charging when running) but not enough amps to turn the engine over. I was able to start the car with a simple jump pack, or by jump-starting from another car (the jump start terminals are in the engine compartment). A new battery solved the problem. I bought an Interstate from the local auto parts place that cost about $100 and was a perfect fit. Good luck, Barry
  14. Hello, What do you plan on doing with the car? If the car has 10K track miles, I would expect that it would have a number of modifications for use on the track. i would think that the suspension would be non stock, and I would hope that there was safety gear installed as well (roll bar, race seats, harnesses, fire system, etc.). If that is true, is that the sort of vehicle you are looking for? If that is not true, and the vehicle is stock, I would wonder how hard the car has been driven on the track (or maybe the track mods were removed and the stock components re-installed). IMHO, 10K track miles would be like 100K regular miles. So adjust your value accordingly. Is there anything special about this car? Does it have records for engine / transmission / other repairs? Good luck, Barry
  15. Hello, IMHO, if you are serious about the track, you should get a dedicated track car. The problem with a dual purpose car, one that you plan on driving on the street and driving on the track, is that it won't be real good at either. If you set it up for the track, with all the appropriate safety gear and suspension, it will be miserable on the street. And if you leave the car so it's comfortable on the street, it won't work well on the track. One solution would be to keep the cab and buy a cheap track car. This way you can have your cab, and have something that works well on the track. If you buy someone else's older track car, say an old 911 or a 944, it will work great on the track. Sure, it may not be as fast as your 996, but it will probably be just as much fun. And it will give you an easy entry into the world of club racing, etc. Good luck, Barry
  16. Hello, My new-to-me 2000 C2 Cab has a dead battery. I'm off to the store to buy a new one. I don't have the radi code. 2000 C2 Cab CD-220 Model 47/98 Y5021111 Thanks, Barry
  17. At around 11:00PM, somewhere in Indiana, I had open road and no traffic. So I did a quick burst to see how the car handed at over 100 mph. I just pressed the pedal down, no bother to downshift or anything. I accelerated over 100 pretty quickly and hit 115 before I lifted. Then a funny thing happened. My GPS (tomtom one XLS), which was on the dash and working perfectly, locked up. I guess the speed scared it :) It rebooted and worked the rest of the trip. BTW the car was smooth and stable at speed. Barry
  18. Hello, I just got home with my 'new' 2000 996 cabriolet. The car didn't come with any manuals. Are there any manuals on line for the MY 2000? I have downloaded and read the MY03 manual, but the interior is different. My car has the 'hifi' audio or something like that, it's the small box with lots of buttons near where the seat heater switch is. Any idea how I can learn about that? TIA, Barry PS I'll post some pics shortly. I'm kind of wiped out from the drive home. I picked the car up in Kansas City Friday at 5:00pm and drove home to Long Island NY. I did about 500 miles yesterday and 750 today.
  19. Hello, If you have the car, look in the front storage compartment (hood for a front engine car). A C4 will have a bump where a C2 doesn't. The bump is for the front wheel drive stuff. Barry
  20. Hello, That is a decent setup for a combo street / track use. However, the problem with a set up like is that it is OK for both, but not great at either. For the street you have too much camber and will wear the inside edge of the tires. For the track you don't have enough camber and will wear the outside edge of the tires. If you understand that and can deal with effects then your setup will be fine. If you drive mostly on the street then you'll be buying tires more often than you like. If you drive mostly on the track you won't get the performance you want. If you do a mix of both the setup is OK. Again, think about what you want. Good luck, Barry
  21. No. Have you looked at the interior of a last model (2004+) CLK? Way cooler than a 996. The 996 is very plain. That's not a bad thing, just a fact. The MB interior is beautiful; utilizing a nice blend of wood, leather, etc. The dashboard is way cool, The seat controls look to be easy to understand and operate, and the rear seat is much nicer too (admittedly not a real major issue with a 911). The sound system is light years ahead of the 996. It seems that many 911's from 2002 still came with a cassette player! With the top down, the CLK has a cool looking fairing behind the passenger seats so the lines flow (much nicer than the Audi S4, where the rear headrests stick up and spoil the lines). The MB weighs close to 4000 lbs, which is pretty heavy. I am not that familiar with the brand, so I don't know how expensive parts will be, etc. I have spent years wrenching on my 944's, so for Porsche I know where to get parts, advice, and that sort of thing. I used to own an Audi A8. Tremendous vehicle that perfectly combined speed, size, comfort, and handling. However, it was way over-engineered and exceedingly complicated (it took me over an hour to install the rear license place because you had to disassemble the truck lid to gain access to the mounting bolts. It suffered from all the complexity because silly things like seat motors, cruise control brains, HVAC drains, etc. started to fail. I'm worried that the MB may be the same way. Of course, with the 911 I'm worried about rear main seals and intermediate shaft problems. Anyone have personal experience with either the Audi S4 or MB CLK series? Thanks! Barry
  22. Hello, I'm looking for a sporty, fast convertible that can seat 4 (driver and 2 or 3 young kids). My budget is around $25K Vehicles I like are Porsche 911 (2002 or newer type 996) Audi S4 (2005 or so) Mercedes CLK55 AMG (2004 or 2005) Note that I insist on a cabriolet. I am a long time PCA member, and currently have a 944 turbo set up for club racing, so I don't need another race car. The Porsche would be the fastest, oldest and would probably have the most miles. The Audi would have quattro, which is good, and a manual trans (which is also good) but would be the heaviest, which is not good. The Audi is also the cheapest. The MB might be the 'coolest' but the most expensive to operate? It also has an automatic trans, which I don't care for, but could live with. This would be a daily driver. I do have other vehicles for when the weather is real bad, etc. Which would you select and why? This is cross posted on Porsche, Audi, and MB forums. Thanks, Barry Barry Lenoble lenoble@optonline.net
  23. Hello, There should not be any wear on the clutch MC. It's going to wear (a tiny bit) each time you press the clutch pedal. Once it's all the way down, there is no motion and no wear. Other parts in the clutch assembly, like the pilot bearing (which gets loaded only when you press the clutch), pressure plate, etc. will wear, but again, this is minor. Personally, I will put the car in neutral if I will be stopped for 30 around seconds or longer. Less than that and I'll just leave it in gear. IMHO, it's more personal preference than anything else. Barry
  24. Hello, Here is a real simple thing you can try. If you are sitting at a light with the transmission in neutral and your foot off the clutch, the transmission is turning. When you step on the clutch and shift into first gear, the synchronizer has to stop the transmission. When you step on the clutch the transmission has no input power and will eventually stop turning. Try stepping on the clutch, wait a few seconds for the shafts to stop, and THEN put select first gear. The synchro doesn't have to do anything, and it may be easier to engage the gear. You will also put less wear on the synchro that way. Good luck, Barry
  25. Hello, In the spring I plan on purchasing a 996. I have a few questions about the different years. Are the 2000 - 2001 3.4 motors are bad as people make them seem to be? You can buy those cars much cheaper than 2002+ 3.6l cars. Am I crazy for even considering a model year 2000 car? Also, I would like to get a cabriolet. I have learned that the 2002's (with 3.6l motor) also have a real glass rear window. Is that significant or not? Anything else I need to know? I am looking to spend $25K or so. I realize that I will be looking at a car with 50K+ miles on it. Thanks, Barry
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.